well i recently got this 86 camaro with an original 5.0 305/700r4 tranny bad needs a starter

will i plan on swapping to a 350 but wanted to get the car running first
SIDE-NOTE the PO said this car had been sitting since 97 and it was sink into the mud in his backyard on top of that its Jan here in Michigan so its VERY cold

so i goes to replace the starter and got one bolt loose man was that bolt on there so i goes for the second one and i just knew there was no way i was gonna get it off towed it to a auto garage told them to put an impact gun on it goes to work gets a call "bolt broke off"

now my question is how do i get this bolt out the block? how much am i looking for pay if i take it to another shop(estimate)? if i pull this engine whats all require for a 350 swap(looking at some used 350 engines)

 

Depends how it broke.
Flush with the block--- Easy Out bit

Piece sticking out enough to get vise grip on-- soak it in PB Blaster for a few hours or over night, then give it a try.

OR--
Heat it up a little with an oxy / acetylene torch, then give it a try.

IMHO, it ** shouldn't ** cost hardly anything for the shop to do it. I'm sure they've done this kind of thing a few times.

Good luck

 

I'm not sure and for two days I was blasting both bolts with pb blaster if its in the block how easy will it b 2 get out on my own what will I need

 

it was at a shop where the bolt broke for them and you didn't have the folks with the knowledge, experience and tools remove the bolt for you?????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

They told me 60-90

 

The easiest way to get a broken bolt out as long as it's not cross threaded or rusted in is to weld a nut to it if it's broken off flush or sticking out a little. Put a nut on it and mig weld the hole to the broken bolt, then use a wrench to back it out. Much better than any kind of easy out or bolt extractor.

 

They broke it, they should have removed it for free - costs them nothing but time, and they are to blame - they knew you couldn't get it out because it was tight - if they tried and failed, it's thier problem to correct at their expense!

 

 

If the stud is sticking out use bolt extactors. Works for me everytime. Spray down with PB rust blaster or WD40 first.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...rew+extractors

 

As a professional tech I disagree. If I'm fixing a car and a bolt breaks because it's rusted, crossthreaded, etc, it's not my fault and the customer should pay for the extra labor. OP knew the bolt was hard to get out and took it to the shop to have an impact wrench put on it. He should've expected it might break and it's not the tech's responsibility.

 

I disagree and have been in your position. The tech has venues to take before adding that to the bill. He could have easily said "I dont want to do the job" and shuffle it off or had the customer sign a waiver if something bad happens like the bolt snapping off. If the corner of the block snapped off would you kick it back to the customer to?

 

I agree with pocket. I also am I a tech. Say a car comes in for a tire rotation n my impact gun brakes a stud while removing a lugnut. I simply have to put a new stud in it and give them a new lug.. which in cost is a whole maybe 3$ total minus 15min of labor.. if a shop breaks something they should fix it..

 

No, the shop or tech is not responsible for broken parts. Half the cars that come in have been worked on by people that don't even know what a torque wrench is. I always warn people with cars older than 5 years that there is always a chance of broken bolts and I am not responsible.

I will say that if I do something stupid that caused damage I will own up to it.

 

I disagree. There is a difference between breaking a part and a part breaking.

 

well i will say i understand both sides me i knew that could happen either id i was gonna strip the head or break the bolt and i was told by one shop if it broke it would cost more but heres my problem 1 ive never heard the engine start so idk if this engine is worth paying the 50-100 i keep getting quoted when i can pay that on a engine hoist? i need to know if an easy out or like bigj part will work out for me or if the bolt is even possible to get out?

 

If they warned you about it before hand and you still went ahead, its your baby


Drill it and use an extractor to get the stud out then use a fluted bolt to clean out the threads. Put a new bolt back in there

Do a compression test to see if the engine is usable. From there any path you want to take is open

Do you work as a tech? Or any sort of service job? If you dont tell someone before hand you cant haphazardly add it to their bill in the end because you misjudged something. Great way for your company to get into some serious trouble if the customer catches it

 

I've been a tech for 8 yrs. I'm not saying I would just add something to a bill without telling the customer but if a bolt breaks because it's crossthreaded or rusted then I would have my service writer inform the customer. Either the customer or the shop would be paying me for the extra time. And from the first post of this thread the OP should've expected it to break even before he told us he was warned it might and it would cost more.

In reality trying to get more time out of stuff like this can take more time than it would to just extract the stupid bolt. That's why I'm getting out of being a tech. But that's getting off topic.

 

If you knew it was gonna break and brought it for that reason then you should pay for it, but if you brought it in without knowing anything but they snapped the bolt there fault, they should pay. I had to bring my truck in to get a lug nut off due to being stripped but I know that I would have to pay for a new stud and nut, another time I brought my truck in to get the starter fixed-didnt have the tools at the time and while they were taking it out they snapped my bolt, instead of lubing it with spray and waiting for it to loosen up they just rushed through it. Since they did that, it made it their fault, so they drilled it out re-tapped it and was good to go, and the only thing I had to pay for was the orginal estimate since the bolt breaking was their fault for not taking the proper time to wait.

 

I'm not a big fan of extractors because you have to use one thinner than the bolt of course and it's not hard to break one off in a bolt. If you're not carefull you could break the drill bit too and with either of those broke off in there drilling it out is almost impossible. I have left hand drill bits I use if it's something I think will come out, so that if I'm lucky while I'm drilling it'll just spin right out. I hope for your sake the bolt isn't crossthreaded or totally rusted up in there because you probably won't get it out unless you drill it all the way to the size you'd need for a tap to cut new threads.

If it's broken but just threaded up in there you can try turning it with a punch and hammer. I've been able to turn them enough to get a grip on the with something before. Or like I mentioned before if you can weld a nut to it that works pretty well and the heat might even help loosen it up.

 

i didn't bring the car to them so they could break and i wouldn't be responsible like i said i knew it could have....doesn't mean i knew it would have....big difference but i clearly said "one shop warned me" this shop didn't i told them exactly what i told yall he said "bring it in 10 bucks" but at this point that doesn't matter its really not that serious i mean its a 305 for crying out loud i just wanted to hear the engine run to know if its good or not so i could sell it when i get a 350 in it

 

Drill it out starting with an 1/8" bit then move to an 1/4" bit. Be very careful not to break the bit. Spray liberally with penetrating oil and let set overnight or longer, then use an easy-out to remove the bolt, the bolt will probably loosen when it's being drilled, but be careful not to break the easy out b/c they are fairly brittle. If you do break it, or a drill bit you can probably bust it up with a punch and a BFH. I do this on boats, upside down in the bilge after they've been hydrolocked and the customer has hit the starter and destroyed it. It's not easy, usually I can just work the bolt out with a sharp tool if it's not seized. Other times the engine has to come out. Good luck!

 

so im just now getting time to go check it out and the starter if off.the bolt that broke is partial in the block.but the new problem is i cant get the damn starter out for nothing its like theres no room to slide it out is it just me having bad luck or is this just a common problem with third gen camaros(getting the starter out)

 

my question is y you worry about getting the car to start when you going to swap the motor out? y dont you just pull motor out with starter on it?

 

well since recent bills and tickets have popped up the swap is put on hold and ive been thinking it might be cheaper to get the car running and drive it well waiting to do the swap that way ill be able to save more money and it would be a better swap rather then rushing it just because i want the car running you know. also like i said i want to know if the engine is a good running engine or if it needs a rebuild i want to know this info for when i sell it

 

Well, you're lucky you've got a 3rd gen camaro b/c if it was anything else, your thread would be immediately shut down by some jealous **** living in a foreign country. I'll wait and see if that person offers to help you(I bet he doesn't). Meanwhile, I'd suggest going to another GM board for hints on how to correct this simple problem. Heck, maybe I'll read your post there and give you the answer.

 

^^Exactly what Pocket said. If a shop breaks something its their responsibility to fix it. I always review a job before giving an estimate because if something is going to be a PITA it needs to be added to the ESTIMATE. And yes I have said no to a few jobs in the past.

Drill a pilot hole first then use an easy out to remove it. Sometimes if the bolt is broken off in a point or whatever, you need to use a punch to make a pilot for the drill bit.