MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

So far I'm really liking these 6 point, 8mm bolts. The one's that SLP supplied were 12 point? Well those were a pain to install and remove due to the design of the headers. And one bolt that I had purchased for the really tight #1 cylinder pipe, took me almost four hours to remove and bent up my valve cover in the process of removing it.

The ARP bolts went in smoothly, and the design of the 6 point, 8mm bolt head made it really easy for installation. They do come with with washers for every bolt in the package and I did have to use one or two but not all of them for the hole variations on the headers themselves.

86iroct5

part numbers? what SLP headers do you have? the ones with the long standoffs?

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

SLP 30001. 1 3/4" with the A.I.R. tubes.

Stand offs? You mean those extension type tubes about 1 1/2" long welded to some of the mounting holes on the headers?

86iroct5

yes those.

what are the part numbers for the ARP hardware. i have mine rigged for now since i bought them without bolts i would like to do the ARP hardware, sounds like they fit very nicely in the tight spaces.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Here are three pictures. One is of the ARP bolt package with the part number, the picture with the bolt using a washer is where I removed this extension piece SLP welded onto the header which my car has no use for. The one without the washer is the #1 cylinder exhaust port where it was a pain in the butt to remove the old bolt but easier with the new.

Keep in mind, I have the original stock factory heads on my car.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Same thing but not stainless...they are chromoly

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1109

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Yea they had those at Team C as well where I bought mine. I just went for a brighter looking bolt. Trying to brighten up my engine compartment.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Talk about a nightmare removing the old bolts. Driver's side is complete and also found out I had a couple of loose spark plugs. I just worked on the right side and also discovered some loose spark plugs. I didn't finish the last two on the #8 pipe. I'll try to finish up tomorrow before it gets too hot out and tighten up the rest of the spark plugs. The sweat and pain will be worth it after it's all done.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Finished with the bolt installation. I hate the numbers 6&8. It was a pain to finish the last bolts and tighten up the spark plugs. I did ruin the #6 spark plug wire and now have to order a new one. With that being said, onto the next project.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

The SLP bolts I have uses a 12pt 5/16 or 3/8s head but I like to use 1" long 12pt bolts and put a dab of anti-seize on them.
Have you measured your primary tubes? By looking at the cast flanges you most likely have the smaller 1 5/8s headers. (sucks but I ordered 1 3/4 headers back in the day but got the smaller ones. I have yet to find a 2 1/2 inch Y pipe other than the few prototypes) You will like them tho.
Obviously the standoffs are for the factory bolts.

I have modified a few wrenches for the header bolts and one for the plugs. I have the headers down to an hr or so for removal or install.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

I don't recall ever measuring the tubes but like you, I ordered the 1 3/4" with the y pipe ending at a single three inch (this pipe I did measure and is 3") to the cat. I ordered my headers around 98 or 97?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I bought my 1st set (and rest of the kit) back in 91 or 92 and all the sets i've seen/had though the yrs have the smaller tubes with the cast flanges. I was hoping to find a set of large tubes with the cast flanges for my collection

The Project

iTrader: (6)

You'll need three diff. length bolts....I did. Measure EVERYTHING.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

I need to correct myself. Turns out my headers are actually 1 5/8". I checked them today with a digital caliper. Bummer. I always thought they were 1 3/4" ever since I ordered them.