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going vortec carb from tpi any advice?

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Old 06-28-2011, 10:53 PM
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Car: 1987 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L 350 TPI
Transmission: Manual Valve body TH 350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
going vortec carb from tpi any advice?

I already have my engine set up its a 350 with vortec heads and a procomp rpm airgap intake and a 600 eldelbrock carb. I am using the same carb that was previously installed on the engine i believe it is a edelbrock rpm performer plus cam. I installed a new valvespring/retainer kit that allows my vortec heads to accept the lift without machine work even though that cam isnt to extreme. I also converted my old broke *** 700R4 to a B&M turbo 350 trans that i rebuilt with a shitfkit my self. I am completely unaware of what kind of stall my torque converter has in it i guess im gunna have to look and fund out i didnt see any clear markings on the shell. so with all that being said i gutted all my computer stuff im going to be chopping all my wiring up my ac/heat has also been removed. i live in tucson so i wont be needing much heat if i do ill use a 12v plug in to keep the windows from fogging i guess. for the most part i want this project to be a fun weekend car i can drag and mess around with.

my ordeal here so far is to keep my brand new TPI fuel pump and try to regulate it down or should i modify everything to take a lower pressure pump? im tight on cash but if anyone else has decided to keep the old high pressure pump please let me know how you regulated it down and if your pump has lasted. i figured it might be straining the pump if it is getting cut all the way to 9 psi from the 75 its rated at.

Also i wanted to use my gauge cluster as much as possible so i need to get my water temp working. is there a temp sending unit that will work in my intake without the tpi plug in? i dont have any of the harness left does anyone know off hand what the voltages our tpi cluster needs to read correctly? maybe i can just use a recent camaro carb sending unit?

last thing, i wanted a cheap dual snorkel air cleaner that looks half decent. anyone got any pics of a good carb intake other than the classic round filter?

Last edited by Prostreet87Z; 06-28-2011 at 11:21 PM. Reason: sorry, wrong carb size 600 not 650
Old 06-29-2011, 01:06 AM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Don't cut a single piece of wire. It isn't necessary in order to remove it.

The temp gauge sending unit is in the driver side head, not the intake manifold.
Old 06-29-2011, 08:58 AM
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Car: 1987 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L 350 TPI
Transmission: Manual Valve body TH 350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: going vortec carb from tpi any advice?

alright i havent cut anything out yet i thought the temp sensor was in the front tpi bundle. would it be the flat clip on connector to just above the headers?
Old 06-29-2011, 12:59 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Yes. The one on the intake goes to the ECM.
Old 06-29-2011, 01:26 PM
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Car: 1987 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L 350 TPI
Transmission: Manual Valve body TH 350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: going vortec carb from tpi any advice?

ah ok. so all the camaro temp sensors should be the same for the gauge then. guess ill have to order one i think i gave all my sensors away with my tpi setup =(. any advice on the fuel pump setup? i have some rebuilt holley blue pumps but if i can keep using that new tpi pump id much rather do that. this is my first carb car and ive been looking at my edlebrock performer 600 carb and it shows a fuel inlet but no return. there a return line for the carb itself or should it just be returning from the regulator?
Old 06-29-2011, 02:09 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
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Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There is a tech article about EFI to carb conversion linked from the thirdgen.org homepage. It is also linked in the "welcome to the carburetor forum" sticky in the top section of the Carburetor forum.

A TPI in-tank electric pump in good running condition can supply a fairly healthy 350. If you have a very healthy 350 or larger, then you will probably want to upgrade to an aftermarket pump, but an in-tank electric will still do the job.

A return-style regulator is required to drop the supply pressure to carb-friendly levels, and to maintain a constant flow of fuel through the in-tank pump to keep it cool. The return is usually connected to the regulator, although you could have the return off of the carb if you had some sort of relief valve pressure regulation on the return line that you could trust to maintain 4-6 psi in the supply line.
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