Atilla the Fun

All it took was removing the 6.2 oil pan. And the a/c box from the car's firewall. And the 6.2 starter, of course, to even get the 6.2 out of the pickup. I used Moroso solid motor mounts for putting gasoline-fueled Chevrolet V8s in '82-'92 Camaros / Firebirds. I tried this once before, and got nowhere close. This time, I had to do a bit of bashing, hammer on firewall, and I had to bend one of the studs at the top exit of the right exhaust manifold, since it wouldn't unscrew with vise-grips. But it is bolted in, correctly, so I can see that the rod nuts are never less than 3/4" above the cross-member. Tomorrow I'll check starter fitment.

Bow_Tied

iTrader: (1)

cool!

Atilla the Fun

Not wanting to do massive mods to the 6.2 pan, I thought of splicing it to a known-fitting pan of similar size. First I placed it on my work table, block-side down, and did the same with a SBC 350 pan. Not even close. I tried again with a BBC pan. VERY close! So I got a tape measure. BBC = 8.5", 6.2 = 8.7" Looks like I'll order a new plain pan for a '72 Camaro SS402, then cut the rails off it, cut the sump off the 6.2 pan, and drop the BBC sump inside the 6.2 rails. This will be at least a full week from now, but will happen this month. And I will post pics.

lunati397

I love it dare to be different that one way to stay ahead of the pack or set the newest trends

It looks like it fits good

Subscribed

Atilla the Fun

I need to roll the car out, get pics in better lighting. Things are rather tight between the oil cooler lines, the #7 injector, and the steering shaft. But it's so very close to being a direct bolt-in. Even the exhaust manifolds are a decent fit. The crankcase depression Regulator ("tuna can") is too high, the throttle cable at the bracket would have to poke through the hood, there towards the front, and the oil fill needs shortened, but the upper coolant hose to the radiator won't be too bad to work down. I can't help but wonder if all 4 of these details might not be so bad with the Camaro front. I figure to try relocating the tuna can with a longer hose and deleting the bracket, then section the oil fill and JB-Kwik it back together. The throttle bracket can be sectioned and welded, then a utility knife to shorten the sheath, and some fishing weights to effectively shorten the cable. And I'd be insane to try keeping a 6.2 with a 4.10:1 axle, even with OD. Enough typing, I'm out to check starter fitment.

Atilla the Fun

Just ordered the oil pan, SUM-G3510X, fits '72 Camaro SS402, $36

Atilla the Fun

Next is getting the 6.2 pan clean enough for laying out possible cuts

mikebondi

i am struggling right now with a truck pan on a 6.0 lsx motor. it was installed with the truck pan on the motor. it is so low it hits everything including manhole covers.

just thought i would throw that out there i recommend getting as much clearance as possible there it is really a pita to drive a car with an oil pan that low. speedbumps dips and construction zones are rather dicey. just my .02 cents

mike

Atilla the Fun

Thanks, Mike. I have previously test-fitted an LQ4 in this exact car, so I know exactly what you mean.

Atilla the Fun

These first 3 should be obvious, but the last 2 are my current ideas for the initial cuts:

Atilla the Fun

Just got both pans cut, settled on 14.5" forward from the rear wall of the sump, on the outside, and 3" up from the pan rails, again, on the outside. Pics tonight.

89JunkerRS

Thats an interesting choice of engine swap, i don't have any experience with the 6.2, but it doesn't seem to be to be too popular, i'm looking forward to seeing the out come

Atilla the Fun

Thanks!

Atilla the Fun

Finally got around to test fitting the long 6.2 starter. It does fit! But the clearance is just 1/8" so I guess that it's good that I don't have rubber mounts. If solid proves problematic or unbearable, I'll try poly.

Atilla the Fun

Oil pan is welded! Not pretty, but should serve.

Atilla the Fun

Stopped at the parts store last night, pan gasket is in Denver, I shouldn't expect it until middle of next week.

Atilla the Fun

New gasket is here, pics ASAP

Atilla the Fun

The pan is booger-welded, by me. Using a Lincoln stick welder, large 6011 rod, and 105 amps. There's still more clean-up to do, as soon as I get a new 1/4" x 4.5" disc for my angle grinder. Then leak testing, then washing and painting. More pics tomorrow.

Atilla the Fun

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The more I practice my welding, the better I get at grinding.

Atilla the Fun

Here are some better exterior pics of my pan:

Atilla the Fun

Ain't that the truth

Edwardgp

I am sorry I didn't see this sooner but the 3/32 stainless steel rod with 50-70 amps depending on the welder works great with sheet metal like an oil pan. IMO

Atilla the Fun

No doubt. But I used what I had, and it was adequate to the job. I did burn through, making some big holes at first, but a bit of trial and error got it done. Not like this pan is structural, either. I tried 90 amps, it wouldn't start an arc.

Edwardgp

Yes sir like you said a grinder and the patience to use it will make it look nice. I know all about using what you have around, this economy is eating me alive.

Atilla the Fun

This ain't my day. No work, so I went grinding on my welds. Revealed 9 pinholes. So I went back to welding, but I guess I lost the trick, because when I got grinding those, I ended up even worse. So I grabbed the rails in both hands, put a foot in the sump, and tried to break all the weld at luck. Luck be a lady, it is one piece. Holey, but strength adequate for 2 gallons of 15W40. This isn't a job for JB-Kwik, nor do I want to try common A-B epoxy. But there's some stuff at the implement store, I'll post pics as soon as I get by there.

DeltaElite121

Are you welding at a steep angle? It looks like you were welding at too sharp of an angle causing ">->->->" spatter patterns. That and it looks like the amperage wasn't happiest. Not ******* on you by any means, just figured I'd offer some insight so you can eventually not have the grind the welds away, haha.

Atilla the Fun

Thanks, but I'm no welder, and I know it. I want to make it clear that anyone can copy every step of this swap, no matter what skills you lack. I did all this welding from the outside of the pan, and it was several hundred spot-welds to begin with. These pans are about the same thicknesses, and both far too thin to run a bead at 105 amps. Even with a new rod, directly on the grounding clamp, no spark possible at 90 amps. But it's an older welder, and not even mine. I normally pay for professional welding, but that seemed contrary to the no-budget, do-it-yourself nature of the 6.2

Atilla the Fun

I remembered the FastSteel, which is a lot like an epoxy, and I got 3 of the two-ounce sticks, each one's about the size and length of an average man's middle finger. What I forgot was an aerosol can of brake cleaner, so no pics today.

Atilla the Fun

Atilla the Fun

It's in! Pics next. Right now I'm hurting, exhausted, hungry and hurting. But the wiper motor is in, the air cleaner is on, I had to tweak the bracket for the "tuna cam", and I had to modify the under-hood braces, but the hood closes! I got the radiator in, and both batteries. The starter is on. The crank and water pump pulleys are back on, the alt belt is on and tight. The P/S pulley is a good 1/8" from the steering box.

Atilla the Fun

Atilla the Fun

lunati397

there is a turbo manifold available for that motor too a friend did it in his suburban now get it running and post a vid I was hoping to get mine in and fab the motor mounts this weekend but I got bum rushed with powdercoating and Im still catching up with that

Atilla the Fun

I don't think my phone can do vids, only pics. Still gotta finish the fuel, cooling and exhaust systems. Looks like I'm not the first after all, dangit! : http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=m6W5DfuWQBs

lunati397

thats been out for awhile and its a 4th gen you will be the first third gen and there are a few duramax second and first gens running too

Atilla the Fun

Not disrespecting you, I like you, but the DuraMax makes a pointless swap: Getting it costs so much that it'll never pay itself off. And since it's gonna be a 35 MPG end result, you may as well do an AFM LS2 plus turbos. Easy 800 Hp without needing a heavy Allison instead of a T56, and GM proved an AFM LS2 can do 35 MPG. Diesel therefore needs to do 40 MPG, which I figured I can do before discovering this clown invested more to be done before me, and "proved" me correct. There's a few examples of DuraMaxes occasionally exceeding 35, but not tank-after-tank. The diesel engine needs to be a Pick-N-Pull $100 on half price day, which no DuraMax ever can be. Knowing a gas 350 carbureted could do 30 MPG on that budget, done my way, the fuel savings at 40 MPG is 1/3. So at the same cost to build either, the build is paid for by the first oil change. No DuraMax can ever do that, either. As I said before, I understand the appeal of the DuraMax, it's great for what it comes in. But for our cars, it's senseless. Look how much you have to do to get it in. Plus it's still heavier than mine or a turbo iron-block 6.0 with AFM. In fact, the turbo LS2 build can be done at least as cheap as the DuraMax. You're gonna break S-60s ( unless you install D70 gears and 40-spline axles ) if you ever find traction. I just can't abide the idea of spending big dollars to gain nothing. You're losing handling far worse than I am, and that's one of the main points of these cars. Putting a DuraMax in a new 2010-up Camaro makes some sense. But the biggest point of third-gens is they're the lightest, cheapest fun cars, and you're going against all of that by installing a DuraMax. I'm doing mine more for loaded MPG, to prove that towing a camper at 65 MPH doesn't have to be the 10 MPG that every single person on rv.net claims it to be. I expect to see at least 15, and probably 20. I may need a turbo to get there, and towing at least 2 tons may prove challenging. But it gives valid reason for using such an engine. If you just want a diesel Camaro, why not a much smaller choice of engine? Something that makes 150 TQ would be ideal.

lunati397

It cost me nothing I bought a wrecked 2500 for 2500 and parted it out and made 500 after keeping the duramax

Im not doing it for MPG to build a 600 hp 6.0 I have 3 in my garage now I specialize in LSX motors and know them inside and out it would cost 6 to 10k depending on the setup when you factor in everything the duramax with just a programer and lift pump 1500 dollars will be 600 hp 1300 ftlb tq all day long on pump diesel thats why I am doing it It will be a track and show car not everyday Im buildinga 52 GMC pickup for a DD because my wife likes driving the new truck lol

I like your build and I can be an a** and point out alot but im not Im supporting you like a good sport but if you want to go down that road ill be the critic that you are being

Atilla the Fun

I apologize IF I made you feel like I was being an **** to you. I don't apologize for spelling it out how I see it, and I wish you'd do the same. Got a criticism? Give me the opportunity to ponder it, please. If I'm being stupid, please show me, so I can fix it, even if it means I end up with a DuraMax. Go back to my old posts, you'll see there were many times I admitted that I stood corrected. I'm not closed-minded. I'm not needing a C-code intake, since my self-ported J-code flows 3 times what's needed for 130 HP at 3600 RPM. Plus the EGR helps MPG. And it fits under my stock hood. Seems to me you've dragged home 4 useless DuraMaxes so far. Locally, the absolute minimum price on a known-good, driveable-as-is DuraMax is well above $5,000, and that's not even the 365-HP 660-TQ version. Around here there's NO demand for LSx swaps, just the engines. Everybody's a swapper, it would seem. Otherwise I'd have a great business going, since I've done the LSx thing to a Mustang, a Camaro, an S-10 and a Fiero. I'm to the point where I no longer need any of the books I bought about the LSx, and I no longer need to ask any questions on any of the 5 biggest LSx forums. If you can't face the truth about the DuraMax-inti-third-gen, no need to imply your opinion, just tell me to leave you alone. I know how to be a friend, even though my interaction skills are among the worst. Friends don't hold back. Friends help. Friends realize that technical facts are, and have to be, far more important than people's feelings, or sponsors' money.

Atilla the Fun

I've had an idea for starting the exhaust system. Just not seeing any free time until July 6.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

cousin had a 6.2 blazer that would barely pull itself down the road, much less a camper. lol

Atilla the Fun

So you're gonna bash me based on one bad experience?

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

can't deny the 6.2 is a turd man.
you bashed the other guy's duramax swap, which should get similar mpgs but 3-4 times the power of the 6.2.

6.2 is no doubt cheaper by a longshot, though. and replacement parts will be a drop in the bucket. they are fairly reliable since they dont make any power, and should get good mpg's for the money, no doubt.... not knocking that part of it at all.

Atilla the Fun

First, define "turd". Second, learn the difference between bashing and qualified evaluation. Third, he won't get within 5 MPG of me, ever.

the209bnr

nice

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

all i said was the 6.2 was a turd. i assumed you already knew that.

i do not agree on him getting close to your mpg. the 6.2s got around 23-25mpg tops in a 1/2 ton truck. my dad's '03 duramax 2500 routinely gets 22mpg.... -in a truck that is 2000lbs+ heavier.

1gary

Edited

Atilla the Fun

Moderator: please remove from this thread everything that isn't me detailing how I did it. Please post this request for them to see. Exhaust pics are coming. Still working on radiator hoses too.

Edwardgp

Atilla looks very good, you did a great job working with what you had. Been following you from the beginning when we had a little talk about types of welding rod.

Atilla the Fun

The pink wire that used to be ignition hot to the coil now goes to the pink wire on the IP solenoid. If I got the terminology right. Still, I got it all sorted on paper. I got the wiring schematics for my car and the donor pickup. The big problems are the odd-size nipples on the radiator, and the cost of a non-A/C heater box for the firewall. I got the exhaust figured out, I just don't like the solution. All the available Goodyear and Gates hoses go in quarter-inch increments, but my radiator has a 1.31" upper and a 1.56" lower. Maybe I can buy stock hoses for the car, more stock hoses for the engine, then cut and splice with those cheap exhaust pipe adapters? IDK. I have no enthusiasm, but my budget is zero and sharing a vehicle is frustrating, so I need this to run.