TVIROCZ

iTrader: (1)

I am looking for a good 350 for my IROC. I found a guy with a formula 350, has about 130K on it, he said the motor is fine however he is not returning my emails. (maybe he had a change of heart). If i buy it I want to rebuild it. If I dont hear from him I am looking at summit, jegs, etc. Whats a good 350? I hear goodwrench crate are no good. Someone online said summit was junk. Also If I get a new 350 I want a 4 bolt main, and warrenty.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

Forget the 350. If I had it to do over again, I'd go straight to this:

http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...shp-block.html

That's a killer price on a quality short block and no one has ever complained about too much power.

TVIROCZ

iTrader: (1)

I am not looking to kill myself, i want something affordable, I can drive (not everyday) with good power. I am would like a 13 second car and if I can get 12s that would be great.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

OK This is where I got my short block:

http://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog/...d_Warranty/144

It has worked well for me and is not expensive at all. Check my sig and you'll see that it will get you exactly where you want to go.

TVIROCZ

iTrader: (1)

I am looking for something fuel injected, that says recommend TBI, unless a TPI is fine on it (I am not really car savy but i am learning.). I really dont want carb. (I am not really car savy but i am learning.)

watajob

iTrader: (29)

That will work fine with a TPI. That is the exact one I used. I did, obviously, change the cam.

TVIROCZ

iTrader: (1)

I also have msd distributor can use that. Also what about my 305 heads and other interchangeable parts? So far I like what I see.

abray1

I think you are saying you want a 12 second car that is pump gas friendly and you can drive it anywhere. That is what I am building for my vert. I too have a 350 with a steel GM 1pc crank with 6 inch h beam rods and forrged mahle pistons (slightly dished) and I want about 9.8 compression so it will run on 87 octane. The fastburn heads heads orr ported prro comps are what I am looking at. Sometthing that flows around 250cfm at 500 lift. I am using a holley stealth ram also since the factory tpi is so restrictive. I want a cam that will be easy to tune so that won't be a headache and that will have a decent idle. A ZZ4 cam or possibly a lt4 hot cam are the top pics so far. A lot of guys have used them and know how to tune for them which adds to it as well. Let us know what you find since I am in the same boat.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

That should easily get you into the 12's. To the OP, the stock 081 heads will raise your compression a bit, (which is why I used Trickflow 175's) but aren't noted for good flow stock. They'll take some work on the ports to get the full advantage of a cam upgrade. And upgrades to valves/springs, also. My cam specs are below, (lift is .493/.502 w/1.6's):

watajob

iTrader: (29)

Also, I think you'll be leaving power on the table w/an 87 compatible tune. I think it will take a pretty mild spark curve w/9.8 comp. My is 10-1 and needs 93.

abray1

You have a 92 T/A vert and I have a 92 Z vert. The verts flex so much I wasn't wanting a huge horsepower engine just a high 12 second cruiser that still drove effortlessly and idled at 6 hundred or so. With aluminum heads you get a free half point of compression so with 9.8 give or take with aluminum heads it should tune like a 9.3 car which I thought would hold all of the timing. Of course with more duration you bleed off cylinder pressure which makes it more detination friendly but less idle friendly. Everything is a trade off unfortunately. In the future the valves will be controlled by solenoids and will go from stock at 40% or less throttle to 600 lift and 240 duration at 85% plus throttle. I remember when formula one went to transmission shifting on the steering wheel and we thought we would never have it. Now the corvette comes stock with it. I will probably go ported pro comps and a zz4 cam. That way someone has already tuned that combo and maybe they will burn me a chip.

abray1

From what I have read if you can get 250 cfm at around 500 lift then you can get into the 12s with not much problem. In a vert the factory didn't put a 350 in them for a reason. My car has a cracked windshield from skating the car around like a go-cart. I twisted the car acting like I was 21 again and I have a straight up and down crack on a brand new windshield. No sign of a rock hit and I heard it when it happened and there wasn't a car in sight I just got a little fresh with her and she slapped me. I did just get through putting all new red poly bushings, lower control arms, panhard bar, bilstein shocks and a lot of other suspension things on. I then proceded to see how well it all worked and it all works extremely well. It handles like a go-cart. You can slide it arround by yanking the wheel like a toy. Subframe connectors are next; obviously. But, I still have to finish the new motor and pick a set of heads and a cam. I need aluminum heads with 58cc chambers and 250-260 cfm @ 500 lift. I have a stealth ram, all forged bottom end, balanced, new 700r4, New Kenwood radio with 10 disc changer worth at least 60 RWHP. New 9 bolt posi with 327 gears and pbr 11.7 rear disc, walbro pump. Gotta get brakes after the motor. End up like bluezees dad and something happen when I finally get everything done and take it for a first ride to see what its all about.