TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Whats funny is the Firehawks use the Tri-Ys and they were only supposed to be 1 5/8s headers.
Y choke that motor with a "smaller" header?
SLP had other issues too, like the 2.25 Y pipes instead of the 2.5 they advertised.

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

Guys I am in the process of buying a set of SLP 1 3/4" Shorty Headers, but the guy is still using the Y-Pipe on his other set.

Do I have to either find someone with a SLP Y-Pipe or have a custom Y-Pipe made in order to mate these up right with a Y-Pipe? I really hope there is a different brand of Y-Pipe I can use so I don't have to go on a treasure hunt.

Lol at all the arguing in this thread.


Summit still has a SLP Y-Pipe: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-31035/overview/ , but it says it is made to mount to the stock manifolds... What is the part number for the correct SLP Y-Pipe?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Thats a 4th gen Ypipe. The 3rdgen Y pipe was discontinued long ago.
Dyno Don may have a Ypipe for you.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

Make a custom y-pipe with two 2 1/2pipes into 3in pipe. It will make more power than the SLP 2 1/4 pipes. Thats what I did and it works.
The part you look up is for the 4th gen f-bodies. It will not work.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

Not for SLP Headers

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

I'm actually talking to Dyno Don, but I can't afford his prices.

So basically I have to find the correct SLP Y-Pipe to do a direct bolt on, nothing else will bolt up to it. That or do a custom fab job, that may end up costing more in the end.

Like I said, does anyone know the part number for the SLP 3rd Gen Y-Pipe?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

His headers are based off of the SLP design. I'd bet it can be made to work or he could do it.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

The SLP Y pipe and headers have been discontinued..
Search the history section for SLP catalog

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

I know they are discontinued or I would just buy it.... I am asking so when I go searching I know what the correct version is.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

He cant build the y-pipe unless his car was there. Then it would be a custom y-pipe. I know this for a fact cause I see him from time to time. His headers are a little longer than SLP's. Just build a custom y-pipe. It will not be that expensive. Up to $250 to build.

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

I'm not in a hurry to find the SLP Y-Pipe, I think I'll just put out a WTB thread and wait it out. I've seen SLP headers and Y-Pipe sell on here for $200, so I figure I should be able to find the Y-Pipe for $100 or so.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I made my own y-pipe. It's pretty straight forward.

-- Joe

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

Where did you find the Y Pipe collector piece? Also how much time did it take you from start to finish out of curiosity?

I would definitely be happy with that, if I could find the same pieces. Mine is being mounted up to this:

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I'm looking at the lift arms under the front of your car and where they are located.. Not looking very safe !!
Just bustn' chops LOL

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You should have seen the turd I left on the garage floor 2 minutes before I took that picture when the car slipped while I was standing under it.

If you look, you will see the left (right in the picture) lift arm slipped off the frame and into the trans tunnel.

It's an old rotary lift I've had for 15+ years. No matter how you set it up, sometimes the car will just move all of a sudden. To solve the problem I've been lowering it down onto the locking safety's. What happens is, the piston on one side goes down ever so slowly, but the other side stays the same height so the car slides. Compound that with bouncing it around working on it and ..

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The y-collector (flowmaster, 2 1/2 to 3) I had. Summit sells them. The bends are just mandrel bends from summit. I bought some collector flanges, and welded inserts to center the donut gasket the SLP uses.

About 1 hour of cutting and mockup. Once I was happy with it, I unbolted it and fully welded it on the work bench. Maybe another hour of welding since I had so many joints.

Put the wideband 02 sensor in the y-collector.

-- Joe

TPI-Formula350-

I did the same thing SLP headers- 2 1/2" custom Y-pipe to 3" Banks

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

Maybe I will consider doing that. anesthes do you happen to have your invoice online you can look at and list what you bought? The reason I ask is because the parts should be almost identical that I would need. Also I'm interested how much money you had invested in parts to make it.

BTW, what gasket and bolts do you guys recommend?

Edit: Ouch, $40-$45 for just the Y Collector.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Now add 15-20$ or more for each bend you need.
The custom built one doesn't sound to bad now eh??

The Project

iTrader: (6)

My SLP headers are 1.75" tube with 2.25 collector.

Pic is on post 41 of this thread.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The collector (Worth maybe $40)
HED-21123 reducers, $20
Felpro # 9587, which is 2 1/2" ID 3" OD, twin bevel gaskets $5
SF008 flanges $10
About $50 in mandrel bends for y-pipe (SUM-670175, WLK-42392)
A few couplers, $6 each
Straight pipe, $15

We'll say on the high side $170 with mig wire.


The J bend was cut in half, part was used for the left collector, the other part
sweeps back beside the pan.

The 45* bend was used for the right collector.

Keep in mind I'm running the y-pipe inside the trans tunnel. If you want to run it in the stock location, you need a lot more bends.

-- Joe

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

Here are my SLP 1 3/4 Headers modded.

DJP87Z28

Back in 2002 I had SLP 1 3/4 headers, SLP Y pipe and a SLP slip fit connector to my 3" in & out Catco Cat with SLP catback 3" exhaust and 2otl tips installed. At this time I already had Spohn tube type SFC's and had no problems except the removal of the heat shield on the Cat. To this day the car sounds and perform great. It was was well worth the money back in its day. And Yes, I did have to dimple the headers by the steering shaft.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I just moved the column a hair over.

-- Joe

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

Mine dropped in without moving anything. I had mine since 2000.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Did you measure them with calipers ? I know thats what SLP said they are. SLP also says the Ypipes are 2.5inchs.

The point i'm trying to make is, SLP used the same tubing size on each header design.

Ed1LE

iTrader: (39)

I ran SLP 1.75's on my 91Z and they were definitely 1.75. The ones I have on the Iroc the guy said were also 1.75's but are only about 1.6 or so. Either way, the y-pipe was/is definitely only 2.25" on both...

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

I've talked to Dyno Don and he is going to sell me a used Y-Pipe for his headers and he says I just need to change out the connectors to mate it up to the SLPs. I owe Don a lot for all the advice he has given me on picking out my headers, he talked me out of buying 2 pairs and told me to jump on the stainless SLPs. He seems like a really great guy.

Seems like all the pieces are falling into place

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

My SLP 1 3/4 headers have the same size tubing as my SLP 1 5/8 triY headers.
I have measured over 50 1 3/4 sets. All the same. Granted thats a small sample.
My Hooker super comp 1" 3/4 headers measure the correct 1" 3/4 size, even if its OD.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I get just over 1.7". Not quite exactly 1.75, but somewhere between 1.7 and 1.75. My battery was dead on the caliper but you can see the rule.

1 5/8 should be 1.62, and it's definately more than that.

What did yours measure out to?

edit: thank you camera to for helping point out my header gaskets leak after only 20 minutes of run time.. wtf

-- Joe

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Its tough to find a unmolested section of the tube but
measure it on a strait part of the tube where a manufacturing clamp or a bending die hasn't been.
I'm going to measure mine and take some pix.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Hooker 1 3/4 super comps. measured 1.752


SLP 1 5/8 Tri Ys with 4 bolt collector 1.608 (1.590-1.613)


SLP 1 3/4 2bolt collector 1.599 (1.500-1.611)


Granted we aren't talking a huge difference in size but??
I noticed your headers have a different looking flange (head side) that the header tubes weld into. Yours look just flat where mine are thicker and are supposedly cast stainless. Not the best pic of my flanges.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I did but I couldn't fit the camera in at that angle. Every spot measures at least 1.7x, the straight might have even been more. I wonder if the bends neck down ever so slightly (even though supposedly mandrel bent)

-- Joe

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I measured mine and came up with 1.75 primaries. I know thats correct because i modded two primaries and re-routed them away from spark plugs (angle plug heads) and had to buy some more 1.75 tubing to do it. Everything mated up.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

When were your headers made?? Both of my sets (and all others I measured) are from 91-94 ish.
I have seen the bends get taller but narrower.
I'm glad to see some of them truly out there!

Edit: I just went out in this cold an measured a newer set from a parts car I forgot about that I picked up a few months ago. I'm happy 2 report they are indeed 1.75. The flange area that bolts to the head is different than the early sets I have an I have seen. My early set of small headers have a stepped flange unlike these which are just flat.
That has to be the big/little difference in this style of header.

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

I'll be interested to see what mine are.

Nobody ever did tell me what hardware and gaskets you recommend for mounting my SLP Stainless 1 3/4" Shorty Headers.

I'd like to hear some opinions on what is the best for the money. I am not trying to buy the $60 Stage 8 locking bolts, although I know they are probably the best.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Felpro 1405 exahaust gaskets and 1" long small head bolts with a dab of anti-seize. The headers I have use some of the factory bolts.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I ended up putting together a kit myself from ARP of stainless header bolts of different lengths. Most are 1" but there are about 4 i think that are longer. Its been awhile. I have still yet to mount the headers (getting them re-ceramic coated). Also percys permaseal gasket for the head flange and Felpro donut gaskets for the collectors.

As for the year they were made i have no idea. I will venture a guess they were made around 1998 or there abouts. I doubt they are more than 15 years old. They were NOS along with the NOS y pipe for $150 bucks so i couldnt say no. Then when they didnt fit i was pissed. Didnt even consider the angle plug heads giving me a problem. What i ended up doing was...interesting.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Which heads? Mine work fine with angled AFR 210..

-- Joe

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

Heres how my SLP Headers fit in my car

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Dart pro 1s. I would have had to dent one primary on each side half way closed to make them work. I decided to go the less traveled route (for good reason!) and fab a new primary on each side.

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

Well I picked up my SLP Stainless 1 3/4" Shorties today , now I just need to talk to Dyno Don about the Y-Pipe.

When Don says I need to change the Y-Pipe "connectors" does that mean I just need to cut off the ends of the Y-Pipe and have the correct kind welded to them?

Also after getting the SLP Headers today I noticed the weird deal with the bolt sleeves or whatever you'd like to call them. The owner told me to just cut them off, but I noticed on his car (he has another set of SLPs on his 3rd Gen) the bracket for the AC and Alternator actually do use this it looks like. What do yall think about cutting them off so I can use a standard set of bolts from Summit? If I keep them I will have to get much lower quality bolts from the hardware store in varying lengths.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

1. yes.
2. those sleeves/tubes are for the factory bolts. Don't cut them off, keep them if you plan on using all the factory brackets.

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

Guys I finally had some time today after cleaning up some parts for sale to try and clean up my SLP 1 3/4" shorties.

My question is I am wondering if these are really stainless steel like the seller thought they were. I know SLP is supposed to be 409 Stainless which is magnetic, so there goes that easy test. My concern is the coating on the outside of the headers that is chipping and can be chipped off with your fingernail. I read some SLPs have an Aluminum-Ceramic coating, does this chip off stainless over time? Or maybe the previous owner painted them, my seller never used them and sold them the same as he purchased them, so he can't give me that answer.

I guess the end all be all is where is the part number located on the headers at? It was dark before I knew it and didn't think to look. Tomorrow I plan to figure this out, because if they are not stainless 409 then I am going to talk to the seller about a partial refund.

Also the flanges are completely non-magnetic, so that kind of scared me at first until I read about 409 being completely magnetic. The general rule I have always heard is stainless will be slightly magnetic, but nothing like normal steel. Help me figure this out guys, it's bothering me not knowing. I would have still purchased them if they weren't stainless, but I would have paid differently.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Post a pic

subroc

iTrader: (2)

All SLP headers to my knowledge were 409 stainless which is magnetic. The actual clamp that is on the flange however (the part that moves) is just steel and will rust if not coated. Your going to have to post a picture to show what kind of peeling you have. Ceramic coated SLPs will almost look like they are chrome if they are in good shape. The company that originally did them (well some of them) was Central Connecticut coatings in East Hartford (formerly a division of Airborn). I just had them re-coat my SLPs after all the mods i had to do and they did a fantastic job.

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

I'll post pictures here soon and I was thinking all SLPs are stainless 409, but what about the SLPs above with calipers on them? Those are painted black stainless? Is there no part number stamped anywhere?

LedZep

iTrader: (22)

Here are pictures:

Click on the thin box above them for full size:













What do yall think? Stainless or not? The single shiny spot is where I started to clean them up before I started doubting they are stainless.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

They look kind of like mine. Stainless still rusts. Almost every vehicle I've bought new had a 'stainless exhaust'. They all rusted to a certain extent. They just didn't ROT.

-- Joe

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Yup those are just uncoated. 409 stainless if you look it up has some mild steel in it which is why it rusts. 304 or 321 aircraft grade stainless does not rust nearly as fast but will eventually get something. Maybe not the 321 but def the 304. I would just send them out to get coated if you have the extra money. Its about 200 bucks and well worth it when u pop your hood and your headers arnt rusted.

Also SLP's y pipe that goes with those is 409 stainless as well and a really nice piece (aside from the fact that the tubes are only 2.25"). I have an NOS y pipe that i got with my headers as well which was dumb luck.