Replacing exhaust
04-20-2013, 08:20 PM
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Car: 91 Formula - Authentic and REAL
Engine: 5.0 Liter
Transmission: 700R4
Replacing exhaust
I need to put a new exhaust on my 91 Formula so I can get back to driving it again. The old exhaust rusted up. I need to put new tailpipe on from the cat back, new muffer and exhaust tips (I've had the tips for years, just need the pipe and muffer yet).
I heard you have to drop the rear axle to get the tailpipe in. True? Anyone cut there's in two to avoid having to do this then piece them back together with a connector and exhaust clamps? Dropping the axle sounds like more work than I want to get into, so if that's needed I'll just take it to the shop to have it done.
I heard you have to drop the rear axle to get the tailpipe in. True? Anyone cut there's in two to avoid having to do this then piece them back together with a connector and exhaust clamps? Dropping the axle sounds like more work than I want to get into, so if that's needed I'll just take it to the shop to have it done.
Last edited by MintWS6FORMULA; 04-20-2013 at 08:22 PM. Reason: spelling
04-20-2013, 09:30 PM
#2
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Re: Replacing exhaust
I had to cut my intermediate pipe before the axle to get it in,Had the car on jackstands and just picked up a connector and 2 more clamps.
04-20-2013, 10:30 PM
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Car: 89 RS
Engine: Stock L03
Transmission: Stock T5
Axle/Gears: Stock, Too high
Re: Replacing exhaust
You going factory replacement?
I used a Hooker cat-back, slid right in with the car on ramps.
I used a Hooker cat-back, slid right in with the car on ramps.
04-26-2013, 10:55 PM
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Car: 91 Formula - Authentic and REAL
Engine: 5.0 Liter
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Replacing exhaust
I'll get stock tail pipe, and probably Flowmaster 80 or possibly Hooker.
04-29-2013, 10:56 PM
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Car: 91' Formula WS6 Performance
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: -
Re: Replacing exhaust
No need to drop the axle, just take a sawzaw to the pipe and take it off, then simply slide the new one in its place piece by piece, it may take a little bit of frustration, but it will turn out just fine.
04-30-2013, 12:29 AM
#6
Re: Replacing exhaust
Not quite that easy, just did mine and it was in a pit, Had to drop the track bar brace and remove the heat shield for the tank after jacking up the body until the wheels were coming off the ramp. In hindsight, you can take the shocks loose to give more drop of the rear from the body.
04-30-2013, 06:43 AM
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Re: Replacing exhaust
I also put a Hooker on mine a few years ago. Laying on the garage floor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...t/model/camaro
There's a couple of different models. All very similar except for the flange at the front where it attaches to the cat.
No dropping of the rear was required; no removal of anything, except maybe the bottom of the right shock (which hardly counts as "work"... one nut) to allow it to move over to the side. Went right in.
I highly recommend it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...t/model/camaro
There's a couple of different models. All very similar except for the flange at the front where it attaches to the cat.
No dropping of the rear was required; no removal of anything, except maybe the bottom of the right shock (which hardly counts as "work"... one nut) to allow it to move over to the side. Went right in.
I highly recommend it.
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04-30-2013, 05:28 PM
#8
Re: Replacing exhaust
I also put a Hooker on mine a few years ago. Laying on the garage floor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...t/model/camaro
There's a couple of different models. All very similar except for the flange at the front where it attaches to the cat.
No dropping of the rear was required; no removal of anything, except maybe the bottom of the right shock (which hardly counts as "work"... one nut) to allow it to move over to the side. Went right in.
I highly recommend it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...t/model/camaro
There's a couple of different models. All very similar except for the flange at the front where it attaches to the cat.
No dropping of the rear was required; no removal of anything, except maybe the bottom of the right shock (which hardly counts as "work"... one nut) to allow it to move over to the side. Went right in.
I highly recommend it.
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