FabricationCustom fabrication ideas and concepts ranging from body kits, interior work, driveline tech, and much more.
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I just went to pep boys, got that flexible pipe to do your CAI...
The 3" one, with the 3" filter. spent 48$ and it was a breeze to install. But, i had problems with it moving and puttin gholes in it on the alternator and such, so i have it held down with a bungie cord now.
if you have the multiport or tpi intake that makes a V i have custom ram air that i make. they go directly under the stock air filters. for the third gens ive found that this is the best way for ram air other than the aftermarket functional hoods. the one you have pictured and also the "cold air" kits ive seen where the cone is where the battery is..its more like hot air intake! here is my set up...take a look...if you like i can make!http://www.flickr.com/photos/24427198@N07/
it was really simple my way, just make sure you mount it so it wont move or you will be patching holes lke i did, i actually made the mistake twice and now have two holes patchd, the tube is only 20$, i should just replace it
the one you have pictured and also the "cold air" kits ive seen where the cone is where the battery is..its more like hot air intake!
Yeah, the way it's done in the picture below is really one of my pet peeves:
Does anyone who does it that way REALLY think that they're doing themselves any good??!? All that he's accomplished is to spend some money & add a little bit of weight to the car!
When I did mine, I found enough room behind the evap canister to run a 3" pipe down through the metal tray that the evap sits on & through the metal panel beneath that. Capped the pipe with a cone-shaped K&N & haven't had a single problem with it! It's protected from water/splashing by the vertically-oriented metal all around it, but it's got DIRECT access to all of the outside air that my engine could ever want!
Yes, to do that requires some cutting & fabrication - but, since I've wrapped as much of the intake tract as possible in insulating tape, I'm confident that my intake charge is at LEAST 20-30 degrees cooler than any system that's still inhaling under-hood air...
Its not very effective if the filter is in the warm engine bay. With the CAI you must relocate your battery and cut a hole in your car to put the filter out in the free flowing cooler air. My advice is to gut your stock air box and buy, or make something like Hawks Ram Air Box, which hides behind your fog lamps to bring air to the filters. Or do a CAI with the filter outside your car. Just my
__________________ 383 Forged Stroker. Splayed 2 bolt mains, TPIS Miniram, ZZ409, Probuilt 700r4, Dart 200cc 2.05/1.60 Alum Heads, 3500 Stall, 12 bolt 3.90, Dyno Dons Headers and Y, All new Spohn suspension and crossmember torque arm. relocated battery, 3 inch cutout, custom 4 inch custom airbox by 1bad91z , working on cervinis cowl hood! 11.72 at 115.90 with 1.53 60ft
homemade..dual cold air...light weight (aluminum)...15 min work...under $10. wont really help those who want to keep fog lights, i dont use them anyway. if spend more time im sure it would come out better., also easy to remove and return to stock if necessary
This is the really cool Dual CAI from SLP I had on my 86 Trans Am.
Air is sucked in from holes in the air boxes that match the holes in the fender.
This system requires the battery to be relocated and only bolts up with no mods to
a Speed Density setup (no space for a MAF).
On my 88, I just added a large cone filter in place of the Stock Air box.
The air inlets on my hood direct air to both battery trays, supplying my filter with cold air.
Its not very effective if the filter is in the warm engine bay.
These guys are right, the first posters' example is of little value compared to the SLP kit. The PVC system shown is NOT a CAI at all, (cold air system), but simply a low-restriction hot-air system. Anything collecting air from the engine compartment is going to make a lot more noise than power. The cool air is where the power increase comes from, not a low restriction air filter.
Also, depending on the grade of PVC pipe you use, it will also degrade and warp from the heat coming up from the radiator, so make sure and GLUE THE BEANS out of your system, or over time it will start bypassing the filter and sucking in dirty air. To say this will hurt performance in the long run is a massive understatement.
if you have the multiport or tpi intake that makes a V i have custom ram air that i make. they go directly under the stock air filters. for the third gens ive found that this is the best way for ram air other than the aftermarket functional hoods. the one you have pictured and also the "cold air" kits ive seen where the cone is where the battery is..its more like hot air intake! here is my set up...take a look...if you like i can make!http://www.flickr.com/photos/24427198@N07/
I made something very similar to that for my carbed 82, I had the scoops going from in front of the rad, using the stock intake and went into a big k&n round element filter at the carb. I ended up having to disconnect the intake at the filter housing as the stock intake portion that goes over the rad was so restricting i lost 5mph at the track
However it CAN work on slower cars, my brother gained almost a mph when he installed it on his 305.
Thanks for all the advice guys. This is what I went with:
Not the best, but it was a vast improvement over the stock intake.
Looks pretty, but you've only achieved a low restriction /HAI (hot air induction)....Your sucking in hot underhood air.
Cut a hole down through the tray under your filter, mount your filter on the other side, an build a splash guard to protect the filter from direct water....THEN you've got CAI.
These guys are right, the first posters' example is of little value compared to the SLP kit. The PVC system shown is NOT a CAI at all, (cold air system), but simply a low-restriction hot-air system. Anything collecting air from the engine compartment is going to make a lot more noise than power. The cool air is where the power increase comes from, not a low restriction air filter.
Also, depending on the grade of PVC pipe you use, it will also degrade and warp from the heat coming up from the radiator, so make sure and GLUE THE BEANS out of your system, or over time it will start bypassing the filter and sucking in dirty air. To say this will hurt performance in the long run is a massive understatement.
Often in life, you get what you pay for.
TA
not to mention the fact that pvc is only safe up to a certain temperature, once you melt pvc it starts to release dioxins which if breathed in kill you. hence pvc is polyvinylchloride. abs is alittle safer, but can also melt releasing some flammable and volatile chemicals
if you have the multiport or tpi intake that makes a V i have custom ram air that i make. they go directly under the stock air filters. for the third gens ive found that this is the best way for ram air other than the aftermarket functional hoods. the one you have pictured and also the "cold air" kits ive seen where the cone is where the battery is..its more like hot air intake! here is my set up...take a look...if you like i can make!http://www.flickr.com/photos/24427198@N07/
Did you just knock the bottom out of the stock box, cut out the front air dam and put in HVAC turn-downs for ductwork?
Especially if your on the edge, Hot climate, Heavy traffic.
Our cars were designed to take rad air through there as
well as under the front.
Also driving in the rain and or behind another car not to
good on filters. Although alot of our cars don't see that
heavy rain time.
Just cut out the baffle under the filter area.
Then you can cut out everything under the filters if you
want.
Another reason to go this way is if running a second
trans oil cooler in the front like I am, the stock air
deflector directs cool air right at where I have my big
tranny cooler mounted.
Although your not running AT, would do the same thing
if running a engine oil cooler like I am on the other side.
Keep in mind also that the reason they put those deflectors
behind fog opening on our cars was to take in cool air
to the rad.
Here is the one I made for my 2.8L using mostly Spectre stuff. I cut a 4" hole where the canister used to be and mounted the filter below. After this pic I clocked the MAF so it wasn't touching the radiator hose.
So can anyone give me a picture or at least use some imagery to explain to me if there is any way to make a CAI without reducing flow to the rad (theres alot of traffic around here) AND not letting water in? (it literally rains 9/10 days here).
also, what is the restriction in the stock LB9 intake? Because i think i can open up the visable intake part that goes over the rad, but I don't want to cut out those baffles below the filter for fear of water. But i think both the baffles and the intake are restrictive.
Mods so far: MSD Cap and rotor, MSD ignition coil, Accel 8.8mm ignition wires, Hooker Super Comp Shortie Headers, Flowmaster 3in catback, underdrive crank pulley, BBK AFPR, custom cold air intake, NOS wet 125 shot, air foil and a lead foot! no E/T's yet. ...TURBO COMING SOON...Other mods include keyless entry and remote start, and Sequential Turn Signals. South Carolina ---> www.scfbaonline.com
Here is the one I made for my 2.8L using mostly Spectre stuff. I cut a 4" hole where the canister used to be and mounted the filter below. After this pic I clocked the MAF so it wasn't touching the radiator hose.
did you have to by pass the line goin into you valve cover for the intake tube? i want to make your setup so if you dont mind could i have a list of the things you got
