MrDude_1

this is the third aftermarket Kmember ive put into a thirdgen, and i was just doing a random search when i noticed alot of the same questions were asked over and over... so i thought id try to merge some answers into one thread.. feel free to add any info you might have.



Will the front of my car raise up because of the weight loss with my Kmember?

if you have a PAracing or a Profab Kmember with stock style spring perches, no. the front will actually drop LOWER. this is because the aftermarket Kmembers raise the mounting location of the springs.
if you get coil overs, the height should be adjustable.


What are some unaddressed loose ends that occur with Kmember install?

first off, there's the actual bolts that bolt the Kmember in.
the Kmember is held to the "frame" by six bolts. the two REAR bolts are the only bolts that can be reused.. the rest have a thick shoulder on them and are too long. you will need to have six bolts that match the rear Kmember bolts. you can find them locally, or order a "bolt kit" when you order your Kmember.... the idiots that work at PA and Profab (different companies, but they're both only marginally competent) wont think to tell you of this, so you have to remember to order them.
the A arm bolts can be reused.

brake lines -
on a stock Kmember, the passenger side front brake line goes along the Kmember to the wheel. on a aftermarket Kmember, there are no brake line mounts. this means that you need to figure out a way to attach the brake line securely to the Kmember. you dont want the line weakening

from flexing.. alot of people use zip ties to hold it down... this works well... doesn't look great, but it works... some have had success with drilling holes and using mounting tabs.. this also works well and looks nice. the ideal solution is to tack weld tabs in, but most Kmembers are powdercoated. you can tweek the brake line by hand to follow the contours of the new Kmember... not too hard.

steering clearance -
several people have had problems with the centerlink of the stock steering linkage hitting the front edge of the Kmember on the passenger side...
not much you can do about it... just check if it clears.. if it does not clear, your only option is to move the idler arm some so that it clears... not ideal, but it usually doesnt noticeably effect steering or tire wear.

What do i need to ask when i order a kmember?

spring mounts -
if you dont ask for them (and they wont remind you) you will NOT get spring perches... without the spring mounts, the k member can ONLY be used with coil overs.
motor mounts -
sounds stupid, but you should remind them... this is VERY important if you're putting a motor besides a SBC in there.
steering options -
they do sell Kmembers setup for steering racks... if you want that option, you have to tell them.
reminding them what car its for -
this is going to sound stupid, but its happened twice, once with each company. the guy on the phone might not know that a 91 camaro is a THIRDgen and not a FOURTHgen... this is doubly important if you're getting LTx or LSx motormounts... he might say 91 camaro 80 times... still doesnt mean he'll know to send a 3rdgen Kmember.

bolts -
if you want to bolt your Kmember in without a trip to your local metric-high-grade-bolt-carrying hardware store, you need to order the mounting bolts with it... you can reuse the A arm bolts.

a arms -
this one is a biggie. STOCK a arms will NOT work with PA racing or Profab Kmembers. period. its impossible. you will need aftermarket A arms... they will not tell you this. heck, they might tell you the opposite... but if he says that, the guy on the phone doesn't know. mustangs,

4thgens, everything else they make them for, all can use their stockers. we cant. we MUST use aftermarket ones. order them, or be prepared to have no front wheels on the car for another 3 weeks until you get the A arms.



its in... now what the hell is that loud CLUNK in my front suspension?

their spring perches suck. its a flat plate with a tube in it. the spring moves around some, and if you're one of the unlucky 1 in 10, it makes noise.
there's only one fix that i know of..
before you put your springs in, slip some heater hose over the spring... both ends... one end, you will have to slit the hose, slip it on, then hold it on with some tape or something.
this will do two things:
1. be a "spring isolator" so there's no metal on metal contact
2. make the spring "thicker" so it grabs the metal tube in the the center of the mount.. the weight of the car compresses the rubber hose around it, holding it in firmly.
if you do this, you can run any standard GM spring, including lowering springs...

my car is slammed in the front! why is it so low?! i have factory stock springs.
stock springs sag. so its like a lowering spring already...
the Kmember lowers the car slightly. this is because the spring perch is higher then stock.
the A arm lowers the car slightly. this is because the spring perch is lower then stock.
add that and the weaker factory sagging spring, and your car is SLAMMED... $50 gets you new Moog springs from your local auto store.. id

recommend swapping them in when you do the Kmember swap.

my aftermarket a arm doesnt fit in the Kmember
when it was put together, the a arm is a tight fit.
powdercoating is thick... once its powdercoated, the fit is too tight to fit the Kmember.
you can grind or file the powder coating off of the mount points, or bend the tab outward then tighten it back down.
you'll have to do one or the other, because its not fitting in there otherwise. if you try to use the weight of the car to jam it in, there's a high risk of messing up the plastic bushing.
if you don't believe the fitment thing, go buy a dial caliper and measure yourself...

if anyone has any other tips, please post em.

CamarosRUS

nothing to ad but a very nice post!!!

now if some1 could just do one for coilovers...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hrm

Now I was wondering why my nose is lower. I hit a bump the otherday, and a manhole cover ripped one of the rack mounts right off the k-member. Put a 1/4" by 1/4" tear in the tube. Now I gotta weld a peice of flat stock to it, in fear it will tear furthur and break. wtf.

Theres something I think you missed in the FAQ. Why the heck does the passenger side stearing linkage rub the k-member tube? Its worn it away so much I think theres almost a hole there. wtf?

Yes I'm using stock steering linkage now. I gave up on the rack. And after a manhole ripped a rack mount off, the giving up was for life.

-- Joe

MrDude_1

it rubs there because the Kmembers crossover tube is farther forward then the front edge of the stock Kmember... some peoples idler arm adjustment brings it too close to the Kmember, others have it so it clears.

Angelis83LT

The bit about the powder coating is very true. just watch a few shows like "American chopper" or "American hotrod" when they powder coat a part, they always have to clean off the areas of contact between parts in order to have them fit. Also, the chase the threads to amke sure they are clean of all powder coating.. not something that is common really. but it is nice just to make sure.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have a PA (JUNK) K member and I'm using stock A arms .. they fit fine on the pass side but not on the dr side .. ?!?!?!!?
Y ??? cause they can't read a tape measure... both sides have different measurements where the a arms bolt in.. (R&D anyone?)
I had to cut the Kmember apart and add some length to it (where the a arms bolt on) but I got them to work ...
also had to dent in the main crossover bar so linkage would clear and had to grind the motor mount upright on the main hoop for clearance ....

they wouldn't even listen to me to help fix their junk .. just kept telling me my car had been crashed

I'll never buy from them or recomend them to anyone