ccook-92-305

I found an 87 IROC id like to buy and make it in2 a go-fast car since my 92 305 is basically a lost cause. I was just wondering what this car is really worth.

Heres what I know:

350 TPI (TPI off of an 86)
Dart Iron Eagle Heads
Steel Crank
Forged Pistons
somewhat built T-5
Australian 7.75 rear end 3.73 gears
SFC's
new shocks/struts

Exterior paint is not good/ car is basically in primer
Interior is a 6.5/10
The guy estimates the HP at 320-350
0 body rust and very little underneath
Needs a new driveshaft

Thats all the info ive got so hopefully it can give u a good enough idea to get me a price. KBB only goes back to 88 but priced an 88 IROC at 2,700 while NADA put an 87 at about 2,500. The guy is askin 5,000. Is it a deal or not?

Iroctopless

It sounds high to me. If all you need is a good solid body with a half decent interior to build around, I think you could find something better for half that much. Sounds like he's trying to recoup what he all put into it.
Are you going to be swapping in your own engine or try building around what he's done?

ccook-92-305

considering the engine is pretty decently built and maybe all it would need would be some good connecting rods to support 400+ horse ill probably build on that. Im gonna pray for the rear end to hold up since its the 7.75 and probably swap the T-5 for a TKO.

I figured if I picked up a junker camaro and built it its gonna be 1-2k for the car and 3-4k to get the engine to where this one is and then im still minus the new shocks/struts SFC's so theres 4k best case senario and then if its not an IROC ill be minus the IROC suspension/rear end etc.

I wasnt going to pay him 5 for it but I just didnt know how much lower to make my offer, cause I don't want him to tell me to get lost if its waaay too low... I was thinkin offer him 3,000 and maybe settle for 3,500? But i dont know... lower??

mpb74

have you driven the car? you said it needs a drive shaft so i assume you havent. i would get him to replace that and make sure the car hasnt been wrecked.

mesterz2889

yeah i think for that price at least one thing on that car should be 100%. you dont know how the motor is until you drive it. i think you can find a roller for cheap and build your own rather than buying someone elses car that you have no idea what has he has taken shortcuts on. unless you need to drive now

ccook-92-305

I know the guy, he is an aquaintance of mine and his dad owns the local repair shop where all the work was done. Ive seen it in there from time to time being worked on and know that what work has been done on it has been done right. No I have not driven the car however I plan to sometime this week depending on my work.

As for the driveshaft he says that its starts viberating at about 65 and by 75 its un-bareable so it might be able to be balanced but since its over 20 years old he just reccomends replacing it.

Im pretty sure im going to buy the car because i want to keep my 92, my first car, mostly stock since its a 25th anniversary and all. Im just trying to figure out what the IROC is worth.


EDIT: ill also get the vin and check it to make sure it hasnt been wrecked although im 99% sure it hasnt been.

mpb74

make sure that you can drive the car around without having to turn a wrench on it before you drive it to the store. how does the car run? does it run at a cool temp? the one thing that would scare me is the rearend.
if the car has a straight body, engine runs good, the tires and wheels are good, and you trust his mechanic work, i'd say buy it. you can find a good shaft for a couple of hundred bucks. i'd get the rearend changed out though.
however, i would not buy it if you cannot drive it around without working on it!! do not buy something that some else cannot fix. unless you plan on drag racing.

ccook-92-305

well i had some confidence in the rear end... should I not? Ive heard those 9 bolt 7.75's compared to dana 44's as far as strength goes. Surly as long as i dont run slicks on it im not gonna break it am i?