Kevman

My 'New' 350 is going in, soon, 2 months is my goal, But it's probably going to be more like.. Febuary.. I should have prepared all of the stuff prior, but what do you do..

Anyway, my engine bay is NARSTY.. Red paint showing through, melted sections where the brake fluid leaked down and wrecked the paint, rust, I have a leak where my passenger floor gets soaked, so on, and so forth..

My plans are... 1LE heater box ($100 that came with a 36mm sway bar), repaint 3/4 of the engine bay silver, the other lower sections, where the frame rails are, I will be doing in a hard undercoating, the Low VOC paint I have to use isn't too tough, and I think the heat from the shorty headers will peel it.. Any rust I will take care of with POR 15, and any leaks will be taken car of with the necessary items.. Well, Here's what I'm starting with..

Guest

I dont think you need to worry about the paint peeling, I've never had issues. If you're really worried that much, use engine paint instead of body paint.

Kevman

I was going to paint most of it, just the lower sections, I wanted to do in undercoat, like the subframe, and the transmission tunnel.

white gold 88

If you're worried about heat on an area then undercoating is not the way. IMO That stuff isn't heat resistant, will smell, maybe toxic and flammable. That's why you don't see any on underbody near exhaust. I'm running shorty headers and they are close to the rails. Painted rails with base/clear and they aren't peeling. Burnt a spot when collector bolts came loose.

BTW I did wrap my headers and like it. Saved plug wires more than once.

Kevman

Didn't get alot done, removed my driveshaft, rad, few other components, I'm thinking about going a semi gloss black for the engine compartment, honestly, it's really rough in some spots..

radical82

Another consideration besides the nasty old undercoating is to use bed liner.... You can put it on with a paint gun (special one with a huge tip), roller, or brush. I use Duplicolor Bedliner, it's titable and when put on with a 3" roller in 2 fairly thin coats has a nice, low gloss textured appearance. When dried and cured it is very durable, too.

Kevman

I never thought of that.. I bet that's resistant to any kind of brake fluid, too.. I could probably get it tinted into a similar shade as my silver, aswell.. Hmmm..


Update : Engine will be pulled tonight.. pics to come later.

92 CaMaRo Rs

subscribing, Ill be watching u .

Kevman

Motor and trans are out.. Came out in one big piece.. Cost me about 5 sawzall blades, a 10mm socket, 5 litres of transmission fluid and a fractured finger for when the impact caught and thrusted an open end wrench into my index.. But all in all, it was a good time..

radical82

Hey, it's not a real project if there's not a bit of blood and pain involved!!!!

raptor91623

subscribing

white gold 88

Maybe video's would be better than pics! But you're right, no pain no gain.

Kevman

Motor's out, shop's a total mess, transmission fluid is every where and schoolwork is piling.. But here's my progress.. I had a few spare minutes today, I removed the heater box, it was busted into a whole bunch of tiny pieces as I was removing it (So many times it was in my way). Moved a few wires around, disconnected some stuff and had to go look at a car my brother wants to buy (His old '89 IROC 5.7 TPI) So, here's what I have so far... The engine bay as of 5PM tonight, and the engine that will be going in..



And the old..

92 CaMaRo Rs

Ahh man, i love the color of ur new block. Whats the specs on it?

Kevman

1978 Chevy 350, from a Corvette, bored .20 over, new pistons, rings, all american bearings, I have a Lunati 60101 Cam (Flat tappet) that has 256 int./262 exh. and I have a set of 083 heads from a TPI 350 camaro being reworked as we speak.

92 CaMaRo Rs

Awsome man, she will be nice little ride.

Kevman

I degreased the whole engine bay, with Castrol superclean. Going to paint the K-member, and the subframe black, undercoat the trans tunnel, then paint everything the same colour as the car.
Mind you, I haven't removed the wiring yet because I'm not sure what I'm going to need to put my new engine in.

Kevman

Update, Any rust spots, big or small.. if it was brown, it's now POR 15. I was going to go and buy a quart of my paint, but I remembered that Ontario has switched to Low VOC, or waterbased.. Both will not cover what I had..

So I had a brainstorm, The silver wheelpaint they sell in the spray bomb almost matched my colour. So, when I'm done hunting rust, and seam sealing.. I shall use the wheelpaint.. I think it's pretty tough, too..

Kevman

Engine bay is all painted, just have to clean up the rad mount with some more POR 15..

I have the wiring all torn apart right now, and I really don't want to take any pictures of it.. It looks just awful..

The 1LE heaterbox is in, looks good.. Much more access to the engine compartment without that huge A/C box..

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I'm starting a vert restoration (and will post). How do you use PO15? Is rust bullet better? I really just need to stop the rust....it will be stored in a climate-controlled area.

Also, how did you degrease your bay?

Kevman

POR 15 is a three step process, I like it, it's nice to work with, and it pretty damn tough (Unless sunlight gets to it)

You get 3 things, Marine clean (degreaser, precleaner type stuff), Metal ready (I think it contains zinc, turns rust white) those both rinse off with water..

You get your POR 15 paint, it's almost like tremclad, but if you get it on your skin, it's almost like a tattoo, stays in there for about a month..

We just finished a vert resto..
1988 IROC.
Before
1988IROC2.jpg?t=1289442015

After (Before decals were put on, haven't taken any recent pics)
IROCwheels2.jpg?t=1289442068

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

can't wait to see more pictures! I could use some inspiration... I'm thinking of restoring my engine bay as well.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Can you clarify please? You said to get Marine clean (degreaser, precleaner type stuff)...what do you recommend and where can I get it? I really only need to degrease the car

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

I'm reluctant too, but charging ahead. The main reason is the car was white, now black AND it has an 89 Trans Am 5.7/700R4 that I am getting rid of and installing a donor 5.0L/700R4.
The outside is fantastic....so I'll pull the front clip and go at it. Will pull interior as well so I can paint the body there too. Adding rear disc (J65/G80). ....I know, backwards, but I had a buddy in town who paints show cars and took it.

Kevman

You can buy a kit that has all of the stuff in it, in different spray bottles (For the marine clean and metal ready) it's just two steps of the process I never skip.

Sandslot

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a good thing to do...Can you point me to a store, website? Thanks!

Kevman

Most auto body supply shops would have it, that's where I buy mine. They also have engine paints, and a bunch of other cool things.

http://www.por15.com/

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Dude, take your engine harness out. Removing/installing the engine is 1000x easier with the wiring already attached and it completely removes the risk or snagging/ripping a wire

Its a 1/4" bolt near the booster and you unplug stuff on the pass side. Takes all of 5 mins

With it out you can EASILY do any changes and paint the engine bay without having bundle in your way

Kevman

Now, I've asked this question about 7 times, so bear with me..

For the HEI Distributor I'm putting in (MSD version) I have a pink wire from my ignition switch., and I have a white wire from my tach.. Is the corresponding connections on the new distributor where I could possibly get a better explanation of what I need?
How many wires will I need for the distributor is really what I'm trying to get across, will I need a common?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sounds like a carb conversion. Read this

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...p-3rd-gen.html

Kevman

So, I picked up a chevy 350 RPM AirGap intake, and a Holley 670 Truck Avenger for $300.. Both are in pretty nice shape. I'm gonna rebuild the holley, but it's a 4 barrel, electric choke, and it's fairly clean.

For those wondering why I bought a truck carb.. It's pretty much the same as a Holley 670 Street avenger, just with spring loaded floats, and a vent tube that goes over the carb. From what I read, they put out more low RPM power than a standard Holley.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

LOL! i know how this gos all to well...
sounds like your making some good progress

Kevman

So, waiting on two thing.. Starter.. And.. 1.5 roller rockers.. No money left at the moment..
But, here's a pic of what I do have..

Kevman

So, the new engine is in... Every muscle hurts from fighting with this thing for the last 3 days... Heheh..

Anyway, here's a pic! or two..

CamaroIROC88350

iTrader: (1)

VERY clean. I like it alot!