92WS6 T/A

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this question but does anyone know of a place or website that I could find a cage for my car? Weld in or bolt in.

travis401

iTrader: (1)

jegs sells cages....

toxik IROC

iTrader: (12)

what type are you looking for?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Few questions:

Are you looking for a roll bar or a roll cage? Roll bars are 8 points or less and don't have a halo.

Are you willing to cut and modify carpet and maybe some interior panels?

Are you wanting this for street use only or does it need to be track legal?

What are your goals for the car?

Is your car a vert?

Are you wanting to run autocross or dragstrip?

Are you planning 10 seconds or faster?

Are you planning on running 8 seconds or faster?

Are you interested in keeping your arm rests?

Are you interesting in stepping over the door bar or do you want it to unpin and swing out? Do you want your passenger to step over the bar on there side?

Are you planning on installing safety harness? (This is the time to get those brackets weld in also.) Some people just bolt them to the floors. That's not the correct way to install them. They can compress spines and cause injuries.

Which harness do you want to use? 5 point/6 point (different feet mounts in the crotch belts) Do you want Y mount, wrap arounds, individual mount style?

Are you planning on using the current seat or are you swapping? (Changing seats can change the heights of your head and if you want it to be up to rules you need a minimum distance between it and the roof/bar. Also you need the crossbar of the mainhoop in a certain range of your shoulders.)

Are you going for weight savings? (They come in mild steel or chromemoly.)

Do you want a bolt in or a weld in? Weld in are IMO more secure, but harder to remove if that time ever came. Bolt in use 2 plates one on top and one on bottom with the sheet metal inbetween. That can add to the install effort some.

Do you have MIG (gas shielded) welding shop around you or a friend to do it? (Bars usually cost 25-75 per point to install... IE 8 point roll bar could be $200-$600 to have installed.) These aren't something you can just zap in with a fluxcore or stick welder. They need to be done by someone skilled and confident to be safe. It's like taking a cheap $5 helmet and slapping a SNELL sticker on it. Sure it looks legit, but is it gonna save your butt if something happens... Nope.

I believe even the bolt in ones will need the bars welded as the bolt plates are just for the sheet metal mounting.

Board Sponsors carry different roll bars.

I know sounds like a crap ton of questions but those are all things that need to be thought of before picking out a roll bar/cage.

92WS6 T/A

iTrader: (4)

Wow that's a lot of questions! But here's what I want for my HARD TOP trans am. Weld in or bolt in cage. 4 or 6 if both door bars pin shut and swing open. Factory seats will be used with 4 or 5 point harnesses mounted to it. My car will be street legal and sometimes it will see the track. I do plan on cutting the carpet for the cage and I WILL NOT cut any interior plastic or trim. I don't want to bend any bars. I want everything pre-bent and ready to install. That should answer just about everything.

toxik IROC

iTrader: (12)

"I don't want to bend any bars" have fun paying some one

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

You want a roll bar then (8 point setup). The 4 point (rear bars and main loop will stiffen a setup, but it won't be seen as anything to any good track). It's up to you if you want the passenger door bar installed. Last time I looked at Tech Rule Book it's not required. Most people do it anyways since you have it.

You can get kits that have swing outs. Basically it's a pin sleeve at bottom that runs a huge bolt through it and a weld on sleeve at the top that a pin goes in that requires double shear (top and bottom bracket openings) force to break it (making it stronger than a single shear).

You'll want to get clearanced door bars to keep your arm rests.

Bars will come pre-fab bent, but you'll have to cut the main hoop to the height you want it probably and open the fish mouths up so they fit properly on the other bars. You'll have to floor mount the main hoop in front of the rear seats. I don't know how tall you are but I'm 6'4 and that was an issue for me. I cut plastic and mounted them on the ridge of the seat area moving the bar back another 4" or so for more seat clearance.

4 point harness aren't track certified last time I looked, it's like just wearing a seat belt. You'll probably want to think about where you want your mounts put in for the harness. I put 2 tabs (single shear) off the crossmember bar on the main hoop for shoulder belts. I put another tab on a plate by the door for the lap belt.

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...ild-Steel.html

Keep in mind your clearanced door bars and swing outs basically double the base price of a roll bar. When mine came they also had additional bars for the clearanced door bars.

Expect to pay another $300-$600 to have it installed by a welding shop. Mine was $300, but I told the guy I wasn't in a hurry so it took 4-5 days to complete because he only worked on it with me there. That way he didn't have to have an assistant hold bars or anything while he welded it.

toxik IROC

iTrader: (12)

Just a question, how much weight would be saved if you used chromoly instead of mild steel? For lets say a 6pt or 8pt cage?

EDIT : Found my answer with a quick search...i dont need to be spoon fed hmm who woulda thought

EDIT II : For those that might wana know http://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racin...ild-steel.html

92WS6 T/A

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info. I'll be ordering one this week. Thanks again!

toxik IROC

iTrader: (12)

Might want to look into some different brands see which one you like