thatoneguy5x

so ive been playing around with them for a bit. havent worked since i got the car.(isnt very hard to reach over and do it manualy) but still its a nice thing to have. anywho, when i press unlock/lock it clicks but the click comes from under the kickplate, next to the fuse box somewhere. cant hear anything trying to happen in the door. i lubed up the lock motor and everything. any1 encounter this problem or something similar??? suggestions welcome!!

and before some1 tells me to search around, i did for almost 2 hours. couldnt find anything too helpful.

pvr007

iTrader: (1)

this happens to me and i blow a fuse,, ,the ACC

thatoneguy5x

my fuse doesnt blow but it does make the sound around there. i cant figure this out dammit...

89iroc89

I had the same problem... Then it hit about 70* here and boom started working haha.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check to make sure the area on the body where the relay bolts to isn't corroded or otherwise dirty and the same for the screw. The relays actually ground through the case to the body, so if the screw is loose or there is crap between the screw and the relay case or the case and the body, the relays will click but won't do anything with the locks. The relay box is behind the driver's kick panel in a little cubby, behind which are the lower door hinge bolts.

As for blowing the fuses, check the wiring on the motors first and also at the relay box to make sure nothing has gotten chewed on (mice) and is shorting out.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

motor connections are also often corroded and don't make a connection.

houstonvett

iTrader: (2)

http://www.powerprobe.com/PP2.html


Get yourself 1 of these guys from Amazon or Ebay. About 70 bucks which is money well spent. With this guy you can check lock solenoids while you are in the door lubing the lock up. You can see if the circuit is grounded and has 12 volts going to it. You can add 12V and ground if needed to the circuit, to see if the lock solenoid is actually working or not. If it does work you then can work your way backwards in the circuit and find the problem that way.

thatoneguy5x

thanks every1 for the replies. ill check all your suggestions tommorrow. its just a PITA to keep removing and putting it back together. its my daily driver so i cant leave things undone over night cause i use it in the mornings. i did howerver find a cut ground wire under my kick pannel next to the fuse box. i tried for an hour or so to figure out where it went. couldnt find any cut or loose wires.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Look at the wiring coming out of the door lock relay for cuts in the insulation. If that ground wire isn't hooked to anything, it could have been a wire for an alarm system that was removed, and the locks may not be working due to damaged wiring as a result. A lot of shops use things called t-taps (basically a quick splice) to connect the alarm wiring to the door locks, which cut through the insulation to get a hold on the wires quick and easy rather than the preferred right way. And these may cut the wires altogether.

thatoneguy5x

all the wires seem to be intact. i actually found where the click is coming from. its a little box right next to the hood release. kinda like this one. i dont know what car this is from i found it online. but the piece is pretty much the same. im gonna try to switch this piece out next time i go to the salvage yard. ill let you guys know how it goes

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Its a relay.

I thought I had weak electrical parts until I cleaned up my door latches and now the door locks work like new..
Take your door latches out and completely clean them in a parts washer, let them drain and then lube them up with a motor oil, light oil or a white spray grease. I use motor oil because it doesnt get sticky over time..

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

What year car?

thatoneguy5x

92 3.1 camaro, and i already cleaned and lubed up. i dont even get a twitch out of it. and when i move the actuator manualy it moves very smooth.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Disconnect the relay and connect the orange wire to the light blue (A) and then the black one (F). If the lock motors work, the problem is probably the relay. Also, you will need to remove the driver's seat and the sill plate and check the lock ground under the seat (if the car doesn't also have power windows, in which case, the ground is under the back of the console, right in front of the console compartment). Make sure it's clean and tight before you go ahead and replace the relay.

thatoneguy5x

soooooo. i went to the salvage yard today aaaannnnnnndddddd picked up a new relay. i win, it works again. no more clicks, just the sound of locking and unlocking doors

IROCU2

Good to hear you got it fixed. And it was something simple. Thanks for posting your fix.

thatoneguy5x

thanks. i hope to maybe save somebody else a bit of time if they happen to have the same problem.

micktroup2

I have the blown fuse problem. Fortunately, I have a spare harness that ca
E with a set of locks and solenoids I bought years ago and cleaned up and re-wrapped like new. No one wanted to buy it from me, so I can use it as a 3d wiring diagram to source the problem or just swap it out for the old harness entirely. Either way, I figure I will find the problem. Now to find the time... I must have left some of it laying around here somewhere!!