cptkode

So my old hatch motor wasnt even allowing me to close my hatch at like it was stuck in the lockout position so i bought this whole new hatch assembly. Installed it today and the hatch closed then sucked down perfectly. Went inside the car popped the hatch then when i went outside to close it again it would accept the hatch but the motor would not retract the hatch down flush??? i cannot even pop it off if i close it with the button so i have to do it manually with the key. The light is on so i am assuming voltage is present and have tries mix matching parts with my old one. Tried using the old trigger switch in the one i got but no luck. Do you guys think i just got really unlucky and the motor just went to sh%t?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I doubt the motor is bad. You can test the motor by removing the reversing switch and putting power to the two terminals. Both the striker-sensing switch and reversing switch can cause the symptoms. The striker sensing switch can be tested by pressing the switch (with everything hooked up as it should be), the hatch light SHOULD turn off when you press the switch. If that test passes, I'd suspect the reversing switch is bad. If you call me Monday I can give you instructions on how to test it (it is not that complicated, but I need to explain which terminals need to be tested for continuity with a multi-meter or test light with each position of the switch).

Lon Salgren

cptkode

Well today I replaced the reversing switch with the old one and only thing to mention is the black plastic clip on it was broken so after pushing and fiddling with it I pushed the small black lever down with my finger to test it and the latch went all the way down and never came back up.... So now how do I reset it?

cptkode

Also yes I have tried the key and latch pop switch and still nothing

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

cptkode

Thanks mantaguy but that doesn't really answer my issue at all, my hatch is not in the latch as I said I tested it and it is also stuck in the closed position, so I need to get the motor to open the latch and move up but don't know how since the key and latch pop button don't work.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Something we need to establish. There were two version so f hatch pull-down unit used for the 91 model year. Early 91 used the style with a metal frame, where it attaches to the car body. It also has an optional solenoid hatch release that is silver in color and attached to the latch assy with a single 10mm screw.

Late 91 models used a pull-down unit with a tan colored frame where it attaches to the car body. In this case there is no solenoid to release the hatch hook. Instead pressing the button starts the motor's "UP" cycle. The latch is turned to release the hatch hook when a lever on the back side of the latch makes contact with a plastic latch release block. When this happens the latch opens and the hatch hook is shoved clear of the latch by a coil spring.

Up to this point I have made the assumption you have the early style. Let us know which so we will know how to help you.

Lon

cptkode

Ya I believe I have the Early one not the tan as both the old and new motor assemblies are not tan

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Important, when the motor pulled the latch "all the way down" did you hear a CLICK when the motor stopped? You must hear a CLICK which is the reversing switch being tripped to shut off the motor.

Second question, are you reporting these test results with the pull-down unit installed in the car or out of the car?

If you are not sure you heard a CLICK when the pull-down unit stopped, it could be that the unit did not cycle all the way down. The pull-down unit will not go up or down at this point until you press on the striker sensing switch. It is stopped short of completing the down cycle you should hear the motor start again briefly and hear that CLICK when the reversing switch is tripped. At this point release the striker-sensing switch and the unit should cycl all the way up until you again hear the CLICK of the reversing switch being tripped to end the up cycle.

Lon

cptkode

I am almost positive I heard a click and when I released the switch with my finger it did not return back up, yes it was installed in the car during testing.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Try and push down this hook with a screw driver and see it goes all the way down,once it goes all the way down it will reverse and come back up.

cptkode

That's what I been referring to the whole time mantaguy as the switch for testing.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

That whole unit is adjustable,I would move it up a little at a time until the hatch locks in place,because it's what Lon is saying ,it's not going all the dawn.

cptkode

What do you mean exactly by the whole unit is adjustable? Do you mean take out the 3 bolts that holds the motor then slide it up?

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

The mounting holes for the unit are elongated to adjust up or down.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

So if I get this correct, your old motor was stuck in the down position. The new motor had a broken sensing switch and you used the switch from the old motor. Is it possible the old reverse switch/sensing mechanism is bad? Maybe you didn't put the tang for the latch in between the two posts for the reverse switch and it won't throw when closed and down?

cptkode

What's the tang?

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

On the part of the unit that slides up and down on the track, there is a tang or finger that has to go between the fork of the reversing switch lever. You can see the fork on this switch. If I really have to I can get a pic of the tang off the spare unit frame I have in the garage.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-87-88-89-90-CAMARO-FIREBIRD-TRUNK-DECK-LID-HATCH-PULLDOWN-REVERSE-SWITCH-NICE-/171693852615?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6390

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

LOL pic off ebay, sorry for the multiple images.

cptkode

I think you might have figured out the mistake I made but if you could get a pic of that would be awesome

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, but there's two tangs, and I honestly forget if the fork goes between them or just one of them go into the fork. It's been a few years. But I do remember I Put it together wrong once and it didn't work. I see wear marks on the inside of both tangs but not on the outside. That leads me to believe the lever goes between them.

cptkode

Well my reverse switch was off and not properly screwed down so I fixed that and put it all back together still stuck in the closed position...

cptkode

I kinda am getting fed up with this haha. I feel like I have done everything possible and just have a lemon of a unit and should just get another one unless you guys can think of something. For now i disconnected the motor and loosened the three support bolts and pushed it up to its maximum and closed it hard. Seems to be doing the trick for me now as I really wanted to test drive it since I put in a new heater core and custom prom chip.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

I'm leaning towards you putting bad parts from your old motor in the new one. What exactly did you use from it?

cptkode

I switched out the reverse switch and the harness that goes into it with the lever for the reverse to start etc

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Remove the reversing switch again and make sure that the two contacts on it that attach to the motor are present and have not broken or folded over. Sometimes when installing it one will bend by being improperly installed. You may also want to check out the Tech Article I wrote to help you with the proper assembly of the pull-down unit.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...chpulldown.pdf

If you still have problems, call me at TDS (Top-Down Solutions) and I'll give you instructions on how to test the switch using a multi-meter or test light.

Lon Salgren

NCC-2569

iTrader: (1)

Every now and then, when my hatch motor gets stuck while on its way down, I remove the reversing switch, take it apart, clean it thoroughly and reassemble.
The last time I did it was about two years ago.
Sometimes it lasts longer than other times.
I ALWAYS listen for that click at the end of the pull-down, because if it's not there, I know that the motor won't be coming back up the next time I unlatch the trunk lid.
Which preferably happens in convenient situations like when I'm washing the car.


Regarding the light and it staying on when you close the hatch:
There was a pic with a screwdriver somewhere in this thread, which points to a tiny lever in the assembly.
As soon as your lid latch moves this lever down, the light goes off.
If it doesn't, either your latch is far from contacting the motor or you have a totally different electrical problem.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

All sounds like good advice, but I would try the reverse switch you changed out from. The old motor was stuck down if it was so far down the hatch wouldn't latch. (assuming this since you never clarified when I asked) The new motor is stuck down and you used the old reversing switch. Same symptoms using the same parts.

cptkode

Joe tag that actually makes so much sense now that I think about it haha. But the old one was giving me grief sobI think I got unlucky and have 2 bad ones.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

I would think the odds of having two units with a bad reverse switch is pretty slim. Usually a broken housing or stripped gear when they fail. The replacement you have had a broken sensing switch and you changed the reverse switch with it right? If so just give the other reverse switch a try.

cptkode

I started by switching the whole unit and it was stuck in the up position, so I then switched over the sensing switch which did nothing. I then replaced the reverse sensor and it then moved to the closed position and stayed there.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

This Thread was just moved to the top,it might help you out.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...you-hatch.html

cptkode

well i got another whole hatch assembly off CL for a steal and pretty sure it was the reverse switch. Swapped out the new one and worked first try and havent had any problems since.