Z28FAST1

LS1/T56 swap into my 1983 H.O. Z28 Started off with an 83 Z28 w/a T5 and the 305 L69, swapped for 350 L98 stock heads, then same L98 w/GM fastburn heads, LT4 hot cam kit and Richmond 6 speed. My goal was to hang with full bolt on’s LS1's. Accomplished that, then went after pullied 03 Cobras with the addition of a nitrous kit. Fuel economy sucked, engine had small leak, smelled like a sbc, starter would get heat soak due to headers (trouble starting) and ran hot in summer. So I only drove the car to car meets and street races. Finally decided to go with a LS1 swap for power, fuel economy and better street manners. Here are some pictures before the tear down, there was nothing really wrong with the car except I was shooting for 10's in a daily driver.

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0-60...in a heartbeat

Z28FAST1

I purchased a wrecked 2000 TA LS1/T56 for parts and to become familiar with the LS1 mechanics ($3,000).



I was thinking of purchasing a heads and cam package for the high mileage LS1 but then I found a deal I couldn’t pass up. Freshly built 2000 LS1 long block, according to the owner everything was new except the block which had 10k miles. The shop confirmed the parts but I guess I’ll have to see what kind of power it puts down.

Patriot Stage II Heads 59cc
Thunder Racing 224/224 .566/.566 114 LSA Cam
Rev 1116 Dual Springs with Titanium Retainers
Chrome Moly Pushrods
Stock Coated Pistons
Stock Connecting Rods with ARP rod bolts
Stock Lifters
LS6 Oil Pump
JWIS Timing Chain
(Picked it up from the shop where it was finished, ZERO miles for $2,500.)




Ended up selling almost the whole donor car. I used the following from the donor TA:
- LS1 accessories ( starter, pwr. Steering pump, TB, misc.)
-T56 (w/new flywheel and slave cylinder), center console, pedals
-Wiring harness and ECU
-Dash w/wiring and fuse/relay box
-Fuel Tank and Fuel Lines
-LS1 Power booster and master
-AC components
(Estimate I made back $1,500 in sold parts.)

avro206

man thats one mean car!

Kinda would have been cool to leave it real stock looking...for the sleeper effect but I digress.

If I had the cash--I'd do an LS3. But I don't so I mod up the 350 TPI more and more

What times did you run with your old set up?

Z28FAST1

Parts purchased new:
-LS6 intake ($300 ls1tech)
-Water Pump ($100 local vendor)
-SLP pulley and ARP bolt ($229 + 30, Summit)
- Ram Adjustable Master Cylinder ($165 Summit)
-Belt tensioner ($30 ls1tech)
-Alternator ($60 local vendor)
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump w Ford 42 lbs. Injectors ($250 ls1tech)
-Hawks headers (3 inch collector) ($850!!)
-2 V clamp kit 3 inch (87.90 summit)
-Flowmaster y-pipe 3 inch (47.00, summit)
-LS1 Radiator and hoses ($140 local vendor)
-Gatorback belt $20 (local vendor)
-Spec 3+ clutch kit ($350, ls1tech)
-Poly-urethane Engine mounts ($50, Summit)
-Taylor Wires 10.4 ($63.00, summit)
-SLP 160 degree thermostat ($60, Summit)
-2 RUS- Adapter Fittings PN 640850 ($30, Summit)
-Steel braided fuel line and fittings ($35, Summit)
-Stage 8 locking header bolts ($60, Summit)
-Accelerator Cable Non-TCS ($23, sdpc.com)

Misc.
-Eibach Springs, sportlines ($250, Summit)
-Tokico 5-way adjustable Shocks ($200, TGO)
-Strut mounts ($80 local vendor)
-New rotors and brake hardware ($80 local vendor)
-Hawks 5 inch wing ($300)
-Spohn Adj. Panhard ($115, Byunspeed)
-ACC Carpet ($267, summit)





Parts purchased used:
-Corsa exhaust w/bullet muffler ($325, sold tips for $250, ls1tech)
-B&B dual oval exhaust tips ($160, ls1tech)
-Pwr steering reservoir ($20, ls1tech)
-Hawks motor mounts ($50, TGO)
-Drews T56 cross member ($75?, TGO)
-Remote clutch bleeder ($50, ls1tech)
-Z06 valve covers ($80, ebay)



Services
-Wiring harness conversion to stand alone, base tune, and extension ($350, lt1wiring)
-Port, polish and epoxy TB ($65, ls1tech)


***I know that not everything is needed for a economic swap but i always end up upgrading and doing work twice so i figured i would try to do it right the first time.

klause83z28

That looks really nice. Not many early thirdgens getting genIII transplants (even genII transplants are rare). keep up the good work, can't wait untill this is done.

Cheers!!!

Z28FAST1

The last time I took the car to the track (1/8th mile), I ran an 8.71 @ 87 w/ a 2.1 60 ft. it spun the nittos bad (all motor run), I predict it could have went 8.0's with some traction.

Only ran nitrous for $$ street races. On the 125 shot I was neck and neck w/ my buddies pullied and full bolt on 03 Cobra 480-490 rwhp which would run 7.6's.

Street Lethal

That is one beautiful Camaro! I'm all for the LSX swap, but I think you would have accomplished your goal of ten seconds w/out resorting to the LS1. Regardless though, awesome ride and swap you got going there! Good luck with it....

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2009 Corvette ZO6: Black w/Black Leather, 6-Speed, F1R Coming....
1990 Trans Am GTA: Black w/Black Leather, 5.0 Turbo, Automatic....
1989 Trans Am TTA: White w/Tan Leather, 3.8 Turbo, Automatic....

Z28FAST1

Started by stripping the car down. Also sold the L98 motor, heads cam, nitrous plate to recoup some funds.

I removed most of the wiring which ran to the original ECM as well as the relays that are found on the driver's side firewall. I'll need the 3rd gen community's help with this later. (How to get power to interior, fuse box, accessories, etc.)

I also sanded down the engine bay and painted the bay with left over paint.

Took down the K-member and prep’d it for the notch just in case I decide to run AC in the future. Bolted on the motor mounts but left them a little loose so I had about ½ inch to play with oil plan clearance. I was surprised how well everything fit. While bolting the LS1 to the K-member clearance was pretty good compared to other swaps I’ve seen.

J's T/A

Nice, have fun with it! It is nice to have an older car that beats the pants off newer stuff and still looks good.. just realized mine was 26 years old now.

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82 T/A LT1 everything old is new again.
355, studded mains, stock crank, 6in scat rods, Mahle pistons, OBD1 converted, delteq, LE Heads, pac1518s, pro-magnums, LE2 cam, stock lifters, LE intake, 52mm throttle body, Programmed by CAM, hedman lts, mufflex exhaust, LS1 (ebmiller) brakes, 02 M/C, eibach sportline front and pro rear springs, jegs subframes and torque arm, hotchis lcas, spohn panhard, bmr upper panhard, TDS swaybars/wonderbar, inland empire driveshaft, pst bushings, bilsteins...

Z28FAST1

Nice pic of the port and polished TB and home depot catch can.

Bolted up the headers, clutch (with T/O bearing spacer), and T56.




Hooked up the LS1 wiring harness to engine




Rolled the entire K-member w/engine and trans under the engine. Lifted motor and bolted the K-member right up.

dang

looking good, i'm about to do this with an 84 trans am 305ho/700r4 car, going single turbo lq9 with t56, mine will look stock on the outside except it'll sit abit lower and have different wheels

Z28FAST1

Sweet build, I plan on going turbo or blown in a year or two after the new camaro comes. waiting to see some one document a 3rd gen lsx turbo build.

Z28FAST1

Used the stock 4th gen tank and fuel lines w/o return line. Fuel lines fit from the tank up until a foot or so before the back of the engine then I cut and used union fittings as other on this board have done.







I'm a little concerned cus the feul lines are kinda close to the headers, do u guys thunk it'll be ok if i wrap them in heat resistant tape. What have others done here? I'll try and snap some pics of them tomorrow. Thanks

V8Rumble

You're not the 1st one to mention that, & from everything I recall, you should be fine doing that - at 60+ psi, the fuel probably doesn't stay near the headers long enough for it to be a problem...

A10Beav

Mine are wrapped with header tape and I've been driving it for a year with no problems.

BTW - Sweet car!

Z28FAST1

Thanks for the reassurance guys. More pics of the modified fuel lines. I first cut the 4th gen fuel line right before the header collector and bent my own line which was about 1.5 ft., then connected it again to the original 4th gen fuel line. I’ll be getting some heat wrap soon. Also, don’t mind the brake line, haven’t got to that.








Did anyone run into clearance problems when trying to bolt up the Torque-Arm? It seems to be too close to body and leaving me w/little room to install the torque arm mount. Maybe the tranny is at a weird angle? I tried to use the 4th gen torque arm but I think I’m going to try to mock up the 3rd gen torque arm instead. I might just have to order a Spohn adjustable TA(talk about going over your budget!!!!).

Z28FAST1

Haven't got any responses to my previous post so I'm still figuring out what I’m going to do as far as my Torque Arm, I’m leaning towards modifying the drews cross member and having the Torque Arm mounted to the cross member. I just saw some pictures from a member here, so think that’s what I’m going to do.

Looks like I have 2 options (hope u guys don;t mine me borrowing your pics), cam-'s



or Ghettocruiser's





Anyone w/suggestions is welcome to chime in. I don't have a welder so I'm going to have to take this in to be done.
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Instead of going underneath the car, I installed the New Era CAI from an 04 GTO. I had to use adapters to run an 85mm MAF since it’s make for a stock 75mm MAF. I’m most likely just going to bolt on a K&N that fits directly into the 85mm MAF. It cleared pretty well since the LS1 radiator’s upper hose is lowered by about 3 inches.

(***pics don't show the adapter i used to run the 85 mm MAF)





I also bolted up the suspension.

69chvelle

Looks good man. I'm swapping a LS1/A4 into my Chevelle. Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

Z28FAST1

Anyone have any suggestions regarding what to do with my torque arm?


Ran into another issue as well, if you look at my previous post, I was bragging about having 1/4 inch clearance between the oil pan and k-member, now that the motor and cross member are bolted up, I have zero clearance? I'm probably going to have to loosen up the motor mounts and see if I can shift the whole motor back a few centimeters.


Too hot to work in direct sunlight so moved the car into the garage, kicked the vette out of it's stable. Hope to get a lot of work done this weekend. Hadn't washed the car in months so it looked kinda nice...

ghettocruiser

Nice swap you have goin man! Regarding the crossmember... Either way (cams or mine) will work great in my opinion.

However...I wouldnt try to modify the drews crossmember to accept a torque arm. Im not saying it wouldnt hold, or you couldnt beef it up, but I was very un-impressed with the apparent strength of that thing. I was going to add a torque arm mount to it...but a buddy and I were able to twist that thing with our hands... That and it didnt fit. So I ditched it.

Someone with a welder and some time could fab a double hump up fairly easy I imagine. I wish Spohn would get on board and make his conversion x-member into a double hump with the torque arm mount. With how close things get, I understand why thats not easy though. Since every car is different.

I know that wasnt much help to ya... haha. Im gonna keep an eye on this to see how you make out though.

J.

Dave88z

Z28FAST1 are you using the 3rd gen radiator with the LS1 dual fans? What type of mods were needed to make them fit, and what hoses did you use? I am almost ready to drop my motor in but I don't want to buy a bigger radiator unless its really needed. Awesome job on your car, good luck.

Z28FAST1

I actually used the 4th gen radiator, hoses, fans and power steering cooler. They all fit without any trouble. The reason I went this route was because the fans attach right up to the radiator brackets and I can also mount the A/C condensor for whenever I get my AC working. I'll post some pics later tonight.

Z28FAST1

Heat wrapped the fuel line and installed the drews cross member, once I come up with some funds I'll order the adjustable torque arm and reinforce the x-member. Looks like the drews cross member was made for 2.5 inch exhaust so my welder is still going to have a challange when running the 3 inch y-pipe.

Z28FAST1

4th gen radiator, hoses, and power steering cooler. Does any body know if the pwr steering cooler is directional(as far as which way the fluid travels)?




You can also see the AC condensor in the back. I used an LT1 radiator support and chopped it to fit. The 4th gen radiators are at an angle. I think the angle helps cooling with air that is deflected from the air dam.

I have a few more details to work out before I plunge into the wiring.

five7kid

I thought the angled 4th gen radiator kept the hood line lower.

Z28FAST1

That makes sense too, I just noticed that the 4th gen air intakes are modded to use the same air for the "ram-air" effect and figured the same air cooled off the radiator to some degree

I don't know if this has been asked but does the overflow reservoir have to be at a specific level in relation to the rest of the cooling components? You can't really tell but I have mine hidden behind the ac condensor about 10 inches below the radiator cap level.

Z28FAST1

Looks like I'm pretty much done with mechanical and drivetrain part of the swap, now on to the wiring.

My plans are to run the 4th gen TA dash with working cluster. But just to be on the safe side and just in case the cluster doesn't work, i'm also going to be running autometer gauges for the water temperature and oil pressure.

I used the piece on top of the oil filter to read the oil pressure.






Then I used the passenger side head to run the water temperature gauge.




Didn't have to tap for either sensor thanks to autometer's metric 12mm x 1.5 to a 1/8th adapter from (P/N 2277) and a 1/8th temperature sending unit (P/N) 2259.

Z28FAST1

I sent my harness to be reworked into stand alone, extended and programmed to delete ABS, TCS, EVAP, EGR and everything I wasn't going to be using. I could not argue with the price since it was about half of what Speartech charges w/the tune included (injectors, gearing, rev limit, speed governor, etc.). The only thing I can complaint about so far is that they didn't strip all the unused connectors and wires from the harness.

This is what I got making it standalone.



It came with 2 relays for fuel and for the fans which are pretty much plug and play. I ran an extra relay for manual operation which will be activated by a toggle switch.





I ran these wires to the interior via the hole on the passenger side firewall where the AC wires once ran.



I'm going to mount the ECM in the original 3rd gen ECM location. Looks pretty basic, I'll keep you guys posted.

stage20

wow man!
i dont know how i missed this thread!
nice parts, clean install. nice write up of parts too.

gdubya038

Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming cant wait to hear that thing run

Z28FAST1

Thanks, i haven't had a chance to post in a while, been to busy trying to get the engine turned over and the 4th gen cluster to work.

Good news is that I was able to get the car turned over and the 4th gen gauges to work using the serial data wire (I'll post more on this later). As I've read on the ls1tech, the engine would not build pressure until you actually turn it on. I have a 85mm Granatelli MAF which is not calibrated to the PCM so i think it was causing surging at idle and causing the motor to turn off. I ended up disconnecting the MAF and was able to get the engine to idle at 700-800rpm without playing with the foot pedal.

It sounds wicked with the open headers, I'll post some vids and pics this afternoon.

CharcoalBird

I used the 3rd gen radiator and installed 4th gen fans, the only modifications I had to do was put the fans in upside down and cut the tabs that stick on the sides off. Fits and works perfect.

ssean92

Nice, I love it. I see you did the rad like I did. Nice job

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five7kid

Nobody responded to this, so I'll put my untested oar in the water:

The tank shouldn't be that sensitive to gravity. Coolant is pushed into it by pressure being released by the radiator cap, and pulled back into the system when a vacuum is created by cooling. It shouldn't have any effect.

TPI TERR

ttt

Z28FAST1

Almost posted under my bro's screen name.


So here's a quick vid of the initial start up.

Z28FAST1

From Aaron91RS

"On the driver side near the brake master cylinder is where all the wires go through the firewall that control the lights, interior switches and some gauges. It's here you will will be making the connections from the LS1 harness to your 3rdgen wiring to get some of the gauges working. This connector is called c100(not to be confused with c100 on the LS1 harness) To keep them clear I will refer to this as the bulkhead connector. The specific wire locations changed slightly over the years...."

"...Since you're really only trying to connect a few wires out of this it's pretty easy to trace them from the bulkhead in to the engine bay and make sure they go to what you logically think they should.
Now here is the cool part. On the back of your 3rdgen starter is a ring terminal with some fusible links and 3 heavy red wires going off of it. 2 of these wires go to this bulkhead connector to give it power and the 3rd goes to the a/c box area for power there. Simply take that ring terminal off with those 3 wires and connect them to the battery and you already have power for all your interior switches like the windows, headlights brakes, etc. "



Here's what it looks like.


Ran them to the 4th gen power cable that use to go to the 4th gen under hood fuse fox. Ran a kill switch/breaker 150 Amp.


These fuse boxes ran 12v constant (used to supply PCM, fuel pump relay, starter relay ) and another for hot in start (used to supply power to Autometer pillar gauges and to 4th gen cluster ).

V8Rumble

Cool - where did you get that from?

stage20

its nice to use the 4th gen rad. then the fans clip right in.
i needed a radiator anyway.

Z28FAST1

I picked it up at Autozone.





Finally was able to get my instrument cluster to operate via the serial data wire. All the gauges are working except the fuel level which I'm still working on (need to add a pin to PCM which grounds the fuel sender). I took my 3rd gen cluster diagrams and hooked them up to the cluster along with the serial data wire from the LS1 PCM as follows:


3rd gen connectors that go to cluster


Incorporated to 4th gen cluster pin outs as follows:
A3 PNK 39 Ignition Power...to 3rd gen Clear Connenctor #2 or #6 Pnk w/Black
A5 TAN/WHT...to 3rd gen Clear Connenctor #7 Brake Reservoir Sensor
A8 BRN/WHT 419 SES light to
A10 ORN 640 Constant Battery 12v
A12LT BLU 14 Left Turn Signal Lamps...to 3rd Gen Black Connector #8
A13 PPL/WHT 237 Instrument Panel Lamp Control ??????
A17 LT GRN 11 Headlamp High Beam... to 3rd Gen Black Connector #10
B1 BRN 9 Park Lamp Supply Voltage...Power w/parking lights
B3 GRY 728 Security Indicator Control (Not used)
B5 PPL/WHT 1035 Starter Coil Supply Voltage...Hot in start, yellow wire from Ign, Switch
B6 GRY 1036 IPC Class 2 Serial Data...from LS1 PCM
B7 ORN/BLK737 Trunk Lamp Control (Not used)
B8 DK GRN/WHT 817 VSS Signal..from LS1 PCM
B9 GRY 8 Instrument Panel Lamp Supply Voltage ??? Lamps form Dimmer
B10 DK BLU 15 Right Turn Signal Lamps...to 3rd gen Clear Connenctor #12
B11 BLK 650 Ground....to 3rd gen Clear Connenctor #9 or or Black Connector #10
B14 TAN 31 Oil Pressure Indicator Control...from LS1 oil sending unit
B15 BLK 650 Ground... to 3rd gen Clear Connenctor #9 or Black Connector #10

now for the pics.

4th gen cluster connector


In start position


Before


Still in the process...

mesterz2889

im so freekin jelous

TT84Z5SPD

UPDATES??? Your So Close!!!!

Z28FAST1

Ran into some issues, one of the coils packs was hooked up inccorectly so it was causing backfirng. Took a while for us to figure it out.


I did get the exhaust welded, Hawks Headers w/3inch collectors, v-bands, 3 inch flowmaster y-pipe, to spiral muffler, to Corsa catback w/B&B exhasut tips. Here are the pics:





Also installed the overlay gauges w/working headlight and dimmer switch.





I'll get a sound clip up soon. Sounds pretty good.

stage20

any different angled pics on the y pipe?
is that the drews brace? looks ogod from what i can see!

Z28FAST1

Yes it is the drew's cross member here are a few different shots (excuse the hanging rear O2 sensor and remote clutch bleeder):









Very tight clearances, the welder spent a few hours on it because I didn't want any dents or crimps in the piping which would restrict air flow. I'm hoping the body doesn't rattle against the exhaust while driving, I'll keep you guys posted.

stage20

looks pretty sweet. good thing you dont have a spohn piece under there.

Z28FAST1

Here a quick video of the exhaust let me know what you guys think.

Jason_GTA_350

Nice build. I want to do this to my 89 Trans Am Sooo bad..

1bad66ss

Very nice! sounds great.

SLOWMARO355

Look up Barnette Performance. Cheaper than summit!