Zipacna

The shack's physical sizes are based on wattage. 1watt should be comperable in size. If you got 1/8 watt resistors its possible you could of fried them. Just my

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

so did anyone try this on a camaro cluster?

iansane

iTrader: (1)

...crap.

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

here are some pics of my 92 camaro gauge cluster.



As you can see that there isnt any resistors on the back of the fuel gauge. But I this resistor block underneath the speedo of cluster.


Now Ill have to figure out which resistors control fuel gauge. Anyone have info?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Looks a lot like the example from the OP before the gauge was pulled out of the case (or "bucket" as he called it).

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

what does "op" mean?

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Original poster

fireburdluvr85

very interesting. im replacing my tank on sunday and wonder? will this mod work on my 95 cluster? i did a fourth gen dash swap 2 yrs ago and its read great so i dont wanna lose that. otherwise im ready to rock and roll

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

Bringing this one back up since I changed the resistors as instructed but I'm not getting full sweep form my gauge. I used radio shack 1/2 watt resistors valued at 47 and 220 ohms.

To be honest I don't have the gauge or tank in the car yet. I'm using an older PC 680 battery with a fresh charge, the gauge, sending unit from a metal 4th gen tank, and clip leads.

The sending unit reads 40 to 249 ohms.

Pics of my test set up:
First 2 pictures show the max full and empty reading
Third picture shows my connections on the back of the gauge.

Red is power from battery to gauge
White is ground from battery to gauge
Black is ground from battery to sender
Yellow is signal from sender to gauge.

I tried 2 different spare gauges that I have, both behave the same. On both it seems like the resisters are getting warm to the touch... I doubt that's a big deal. Also, both gauges are very slow to react, which I guess is preferred while driving?

Battery reads 12.8 volts.

At this point I'm tempted to find 2 potentiometers so that I can replace the resistors and fine tune for my gauge and sending unit... or come up with some overlay/decal to redraw the full and empty marks.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Yes, the gauges react slowly in a stock car. When I fill my car up, 92 Firebird) it takes about 4 or 5 miles from when I leave the gas station down the highway before it reads full.

Also if you read though, the "full" resistor should be closer to 270 ohm according to what is posted.

Lastly, does the needle go past the "E" mark on the gauge? The needle may not be in the proper place standing with no voltage?

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

I can manually move the needle past full and empty so it's not hitting the physical limiter on the back of the needle.

I bought a pack of , so I can adjust the full and empty max... assuming I can fine tune them enough to work. With a window of 0 to 1,000 ohms that might be a bit tricky.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

They sell POTS in lower ranges. I plan on buying some higher quality resistors if I end up doing this. wire wound or lower than 5% tolerance

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

I need to revive this in the hopes someone will answer my question. I am pretty keen on doing this as I have multiple clusters. One thing though, I have a digital dash. Has anyone attempted this with those?

The photo shows what my ls screen plugs into. Basically its a circuit board with like 50 different resistors. Which ones would I have to play with. There are two that look similar, both are the same size, shape ohm the same so I don't think it would be those. Other than that I have no idea.

The reason I want to do this is so I can retain the evap system.

Bradlyj8Z28

iTrader: (2)

Jimmy92RS did you ever figure out your cluster?

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

I ended up using the original third gen sender and modified it and wired it to my ls1 fuel pump module. It's been working good. Im thinking it might be about an 1/8 of a tank off though. But I haven't run the tank low enough to figure that out yet lol

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

So has anybody actually successfully gotten this to work with a 4th gen fuel tank sender? I have not. Full gage reading is accurate, but Empty gage reading is not.

I read this thread again and I'm wondering if some big assumptions were made. As far as I can tell, $750 L98 switched the resistors in the gage but was still running around with a stock 0-90 Ohm tank sender. Never saw mention that he ever changed the sender in the tank to 40-250 Ohm 4th gen style.

Now I'll darn near wager money that you can put about any set of resistors you want in the stock gage and it will still work as long as there is a 0-90 Ohm tank sender. On the flip side, I'm not sure it is ever possible to get Empty to read right with a 4th gen tank sender.

If somebody has truly gotten this to work properly then let me know.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Providing this link because this is the conclusion that this thread should have reached.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ml#post6267569