Pocket

iTrader: (24)

For the engine level, roll the car to level ground and put an angle finder across something you'd classify as true to the car. Radiator shroud is a good spot. Record the angle and pull the intake. Measure the angle from the valley cover. Difference between the two is how much the engine is clocked. Just eyeballing, it doesnt look excessive

What Id do for the exhaust:

Order a pair of V-band flanges and some 3" stainless tubing to a merge matching your catback. A box of scraps like this guy sells will more than do the job. Ask him for a set of 3", none are in his current auctions. Good guy to work with on big orders too

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Assorted-2...item336cf6fcf8

Use your MIG and simply tack weld the fitted Y-pipe in there then take it to a shop for the finish weld

Bolt it in and hit the road

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

if you were closer to me I would have you check mine out.. well that and my welds arent the best looking.

The gas supply co. was out of helium mix for stainless so I did all my stainless welding with co2 mix. not that Im really a good welder to begin with so I think that just added to my troubles

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Here is a pic of the Hawks AC conversion kit lines. As posted earlier, the block fitting is wrong and Hawks cannot/is not getting me a fix right now. I don't know when, they're blaming they're vendor AND I'M STILL WAITING!
This pic shows the connected line and it kinks. It has way too much line to it, but it's supposed to be a custom line. Maybe if it protrudes through the hood, it will have advanced cooling capabilities.

rock861261

That looks like the stock ls1 a/c hose and it looks like your missing the long hose from the evap.. the hose you have now should be parrallel to the font accessorys

rock861261

Im so glad I didnt buy any hawks stuff for my car what a nightmare!

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Here is a pic of the other line. As you can see, the angles are pressed onto the lines wrong. I know I have the right side connected to the compressor as the 90 degree line would put it straight up in the air coming out of the compressor with a bend/kink going towards the condenser.
Both lines don't work, and the block fitting is wrong!
I'm about to unload ALL THE PROBLEMS I've had with Hawks very soon. The are more numerous than I have posted. I have tried to work with them to get issues resolved. I don't believe in blasting vendors in a public forum, but I'm losing my patience.
To this day, my harness does not reach the cam sensor - still waiting for fix!!!! Bruce said he was sending me a re-pining tool and a connector SO I CAN CHANGE THE CONNECTOR on an extension harness which had the wrong connector on it. What did I pay for???? - Don't you guys answer that.

Does anyone know who can provide me the right block fitting on the GTO compressor and make lines for me?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

First pic is the smaller condenser line - you can see the 90 degree angle going to condenser - it looks awful. I could try to angle it off to the side, but then I run into interference with the hard trans line or battery and twisting of line.

2nd pic is the dryer/evap bigger line. Way too much line - not even close. And it is kinking.

Am I stupid - do I have it wrong? Lines are different size fittings - I could not mix them up.

rock861261

They just look like the wrong lines... were sent

rock861261

as a company that has made and keeps making huge mistakes they should not send you a extention harness or have you repin things they should send you a complete new harness with paid shipping and paid shipping back for the old harness... thats why companys go out of business.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You can fix the stuff pretty easily if Hawks doesnt make it good on their end (dont hold your breath)

NAPA or any place that builds hydraulic lines can crimp AC ends on for you. Id take a length of metal tubing and bend it to the routing that works with notes on the ends to what fitting/thread is required

Check this place out for compressor blocks
http://www.docsblocks.com/products.asp?cat=14

You can depin the cam sensor with a small paperclip, its not hard. You can find 3 pin inline connectors on most S10's FWD cars in a JY

Granted, you shouldnt have to solve these on your own, but atleast you wont be dead in the water for the swap

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

doc's blocks is who Hawk's is waiting on. yes, will have to fix this myself, just time & money.

mwfrels

I believe your problem is due to the GTO version of the A/C compressor. I believe the Hawk's lines are designed for the 4th gen LS1 Camaro compressor. The Camaro compressor as the suction and pressure mounting ports on the back of the compressor facing the back of the car. The GTO compressor has the ports on the side of compressor facing the passenger strut tower. The adapter block Hawks supplies redirects the rear facing ports by pointing it's threaded connections toward the strut tower. IF you are using the Camaro compressor type adapter then the threaded connectors are probably facing toward the front of the car. Correspondingly the hose 90 degree bend ends should attach at the compressor adapter of a Camaro compressor orientation instead of the dryer and condenser. What I say is just a guess as I can not see the adapter as it is mounted on your compressor clearly in the pics you posted.

M

mwfrels

Just a follow-up here. I glanced at the Doc's Blocks site Pocket linked and he is gives good advice. From what I see listed there are four blocks that might be the correct one for the GTO compressor. It could be AA0335, AA0337, AA0442, or AA1075. Call Doc's Blocks as my knowledge of a/c hardware is extremely limited.

M

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

you know over the years I cant think of one purchase from hawks that went well... no I take that back out of all the items one did... the shifter emblem for the firebird, every other part had some sort of major flaw that required hours (yes I said hours) to correct. will they go out of business for this ? I doubt it. at least not until they have some real competition. right now they have a good amount of the market cornered.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Correct, the connectors are facing the front of the car. I believe you are correct on the lines, too.
I told Hawks I had a complete takeout AND EVEN SENT PICTURES! When I called to discuss the block fitting not seating properly (post #34 on Sept 19th in this thread), Bruce never mentioned that the lines would be wrong while we were discussing why the block didn't seat on the GTO compressor. He did suggest ditching the GTO compressor and buying an LS1 compressor to fit his fitting - easy fix for him that way. Anticipating the customer's needs would profit/benefit the company and the customer

When I talked to him about my mistake on the trans tailshaft and having to shorten driveshaft, he was UNAWARE. He then went to the car he was doing in shop (same GTO swap to f-body w/auto) and found out that he had to shorten his driveshaft as well after I clued him in. Look at his pics he posted on the y-pipe banter with Jon (EDIT: you can't see it and I promised Bruce I would not post any of his pics, only my own-so I can't show/prove this to the board). His pic has the driveshaft fully inserted into the tailshaft with no tolerance play. That customer might have had a bad surprise if it left the shop like that.

Thanks for those part #'s. Bruce told me that Doc's is undergoing some management restructuring and he cannot reach them, get any parts, or order any new ones. He said he paid them for jigs, and he doesn't want to leave and pay a new supplier to jig up. On Monday, I e-mailed Doc's and have not heard back. Mentioned that to Bruce afterwards, and that's when he said Doc's is his supplier, too. Don't know what's true, here.
Look's like compnine is gone, too.
I don't want to mess with the lines til I have the right block. At least, I have the lines in and the non-fully seated block will still keep contaminants out. I don't need AC till May up here.
Thanks to TGO I am getting correct info. I'm paying the wrong people

I hope the harness is OK.

mwfrels

I wonder if this guy is sourcing from Doc's: http://www.honestcharley.com/hot-rod...-fittings.html

Looks like it might be the ticket...

M

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Was browsing C-list and stumbled across this

Might be of use to you and is a different supplier, says several in stock

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...=150659946512+

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

That looks promising - doesn't say for GTO, though. Thanks, I'll check it out. Called Doc's, talked to sales lady - she didn't know tech stuff, xfered me and got voicemail, no callback, yet. Bruce said I could send it back for full refund, but then I have open connections. Even though there's probs, I have to say that Bruce has not abandoned me and he has been accessible.

Trak Pak is in and pinion angle set. Also, checked out motor vs fan shroud - only 1 degree off! I'll take that.
Put in the 3rd gen power steering line - way too much hose. Went to parts store to look at 4th gen, not convinced. Maybe I'll drive the car and when I get correct compressor block fitting, I'll have a shop re-cut all hoses to fit at the same time. I did not look at the GTO hose to see if that would work, though
Still thinking about the pos battery cable routing. I'm going to change mind and follow the hard trans cooler lines (under compressor and on top of k-member) to starter.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Which one takes the pos battery cable? Red or Yellow - the red has the hotwire from the harness. The orange heat shield is the hard trans cooler lines.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Red

porkenstein

iTrader: (1)

subscribed

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

It snowed today is snowing today. I’m depressed. I have been racing against this snow and lost.
I lost my job at the end of August, and when the harness, exhaust, etc. all arrived from Hawks right after Labor Day, I thought I could complete the swap by end of September and enjoy the car for a month or month and a half. Problems have prevented me. They have not been problems of my own making – that’s frustrating! I thought that I would take some time to explain.

I am not anti-Hawks, but this is not going to be a love-fest, either. The headers and exhaust system I purchased is a great system from a respected producer. I have spent weeks and Bruce has spent hours trying to figure it out. We have no answers, and I’m off-sight. If exhaust were the only problem, I would have trailer-ed it to a shop and have been on the road already.
There have been multiple issues with the harness. Last Friday, they were finally taken care of – a lot of time wasted! Now comes the snow. As I’ve said before, Bruce has stayed with me this whole time helping behind the scene. It just has not been fast enough. I can’t hold Hawks to my timetable. But, come ‘on, I will not enjoy my ride this year!
The AC kit is a problem, too. Poor communication is what happened, here. I was sold and not told. Sold the wrong kit, and then told the block fitting was wrong and never told that the lines would be wrong, too. I put the lines on, couldn’t figure out why they were so bad, and posted pics asking the board – Am I stupid? Do I have this right? This makes Hawks out to be worse than they are. I’m not apologizing, here; I didn’t have the necessary info.
I’ve been pushing Bruce hard. There is no thought of snow in his South Carolina brain. And I’ve had no daytime job, just this build, and he just can’t fix his errors fast enough for me. “Things take time,” is not what I want to hear in October going into November up here. It is no small thing for a vendor to stay with a customer all the way to the end – especially when corrections/service/support are taking up a lot of his time, too. I have to say that his service and support has been great (but not fast enough to beat the snow). A vendor that does not abandon his customers after the sale is worth something to us.
I’ve continued to purchase products from him during these problems – Trak Pak and CAI. They’re good products and I could have gone elsewhere, especially while frustrated. The CAI is at a reasonable price point, too. I don’t want my thread to be an anti-Hawks thread. I am confident his products will perform – just, what a loss of time when I had nothing else on my plate!
It’s also difficult in this information/social networking age to have your business’ errors posted all over. I was mildly surprised when Bruce showed up in this thread to banter with Pocket (Jon). It almost never goes well for a vendor for doing that. Look through some old threads and ask yourself why so few vendors ever post to explain/defend today.
Now they post just to advertise.
None of this blunts my disappointment over not getting the proper stuff the first time – or the corrections, quickly. It doesn’t stop the snow from falling. I hope this post makes sense to you guys.

I will try to fire it up tomorrow or Friday depending on weather!!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

IMHO, you place too much blame on yourself

Hawks is a sponsor and sells quite a few things. Back when the swaps were first becoming popular, his shop was one of the first to dive in for 3rd gens. After a few under one's belt you begin to see what works, what doesnt and have a general sense of how things go together. He likes to boast how many he's done, so how can ANY of the issues you encountered be from a lack of communication? You're using a stock engine/trans from a commonly available donor. After you ordered stating it was for a GTO LS2/4L60E the ball was in his court. Any and ALL issues are on him and IMHO this thread is reinforcement why NOT to use him as a sponsor. An honest mistake or two thats fine, but 2/3 of this thread has been problem after problem. This isnt the year 2000, he cant say the info isnt out there

Bruce's banter was to mock me, plain and simple. Im glad his tone here was "lets see you do better" instead of what he filled my PM box with

Having extensive experience in the fabrication of the harness and exhaust, I can say that the product you received on both accounts are highly unacceptable. You didnt send in whatever LSx harness you could find, it was the one off your engine and it came back not fitting and switched up in all the wrong places. The exhaust is atrocious. Those are the headers he designed and has SSW make bearing his name. They'd better fit, especially for the premium paid for them. That Y-pipe is designed specifically by him for those headers and no other. Well they dont even fit the trans they were designed to go around nor the chassis nor the crossmember he also designed. He can say every chassis is different all he wants, but the fact is tons and tons of other companies have no problem with either aspect for various chassis

I dont like to make non-technical posts on TGO, but I feel this has to be said. You're getting taken just as badly as poor DerrenZ

1SICK90RS

Get a Video!

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, Pocket, I appreciate your "non-technical" post. I readily agree that I am too hard on myself. I can't tell you how often I ask myself - Am I this stupid?; Why can't I figure this out?; Why can't I get this to fit?; only to arrive at the conclusion that it is not me. My username means graduate of TEDS - I have a Masters of Divinity from Trinity Evangelical Divinity School (TEDS). I gave up my dream of upgrading my car to enter the ministry. Once I graduated, some unfortunate things happened and I had to get a "secular" job. I found a good paying job and my car dream came back to me, though I would rather be in ministry - maybe this unemployment time will open a door for me in ministry and I'll have the car, too! So I do try to accuse myself and go the extra mile, first.

Hawks has no excuse for the harness. Until I know the reason for the exhaust, I can't point a finger. I really do like the headers! I'm resigned to bringing the car into a shop and fixing it - it can be modified by a shop. 88 350 TPI Formula echoes my sentiments exactly that it costs time and money to fit what I've paid for already. That is my experience, though I'm sure Bruce has plenty of satisfied customers, too. It is the time that has hurt/frustrated me knowing snow is coming. It can't be undone and I'm left with a pragmatic solution - easier to fix it myself, more of my time & money.
I also agree that Hawks should have known better. It is their stated profession.
All this said, I feel that I was a little mean in my post around the AC lines, even though it is their responsibility to inform me and not to send me wrong stuff. Sometimes I just don't like the biblical mandate of longsuffering! I still desire to be the better partner in this customer/vendor partnership. Bruce has spent considerable time with me, but it would have been better to have been able to plug it all in and play with it. Aftermarket does not always work that way and it doesn't mean Hawks has license to aim lower. I'm striving to be fair-minded and not be a doormat, either.
You were right, Pocket, when at the beginning of this thread you said it would be easier for support/advice to convert to Gen III and cable rather than stay Gen IV with wire. LS2 is unique in that you can go either way. I see no reason with a complete takeout, though. Oh well, this thread will help others.
Tomorrow has a high of 42 degrees! I'll try to fire it up, but it could be Fri/Sat. The y-pipe is still against the driveshaft and not connected to the intermediate. Once I'm satisfied on start-up, a neighbor has agreed to trailer me to an exhaust shop. The modification is not extensive - shop should be able to do it relatively easily. Then I can drive it away from there. Hopefully, weather will permit me to drive to West Bend Dyno (50 miles or so, can google them if your so inclined) for tune. One Lap of America and other events around/at Road America use them. I hope to post the dyno numbers before storage as a sort of conclusion/swap completed and tuned kind of post. Maybe an on-track revisit post in the spring.
A significant snow storm could be a wet blanket on all my plans.

nightrider87

Regarding the exhaust, I thought I might chime in for a second.

I am actually a salesman for Stainless Works and we have easily sold 100 of these exhaust systems for Hawks with no fitment problems, or at least nothing at all like the pictures I'm seeing. Something is clearly not right, and while it is certainly possible we made a mistake, what is probably more likely is that the transplanted motor is actually a little cocked in the engine bay and that is what is creating all these issues with fit.

This has obviously been a major headache for you and we’d love to bring the system back and check it for fitment.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for chiming in. I do appreciate it. The headers are well-built!
I really don't think the motor is cocked. I've checked and re-checked, and re-checked the re-check. If the motor is cocked, everything else moves with it (y-pipe and driveshaft). There is virtually no play in the header flanges to block. The header fitment down through the frame rail, a-arm ears, trans bell housing is perfect and equal clearance around them all. They look built to go right down there.
I know the likely culprit is motor mounts, that's why I've double checked everything and by using an angle finder, it appears to be negligible. Spohn mounts are hard to mess up - bolt three bolts in using stock holes and then drill the fourth. The clamshell mounts are new with Prothane inserts, nothing dramatic, there. The motor mount bolts or pins that go through both mounts did not give me any trouble.
If you have any measurements you can share, I'll certainly check them. I know Bruce has offered to pay all costs (if it's his blame) and replace. The pragmatic solution for me is to take to shop. I really don't want to drop trans, take off header, ship to you, wait out that whole process, and I could still end up in the same position - and it will be April till I drive the car for sure. I understand that Bruce really wants to do this as any potential customers can be assured and if there's a prob, it's dealt with. If I do the pragmatic solution for me, this thread sits out there and no one ever knows the answer. I get it.
Whenever I tighten the y-pipe flange to header collector flange with the v-clamp, it forces the tail of y-pipe up into the driveshaft. Any movement of motor and all these parts move along with it.
If you want pics of anything, just ask.

Flurries til afternoon, then not much daylight. Will attempt to fire up, tomorrow. Maybe if I rev it up and twist it around on the motor mounts, something will give - I doubt it, but I'm willing to check just about anything short of teardown.
Feel free to PM or get my e-mail from Bruce, as well.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Too many interruptions, today. And a few minor wiring issues. Still have to cut & connect the two thick wires at the VATS module - do that tomorrow and it should fire.

The more I think about the y-pipe fitment, the more I suspect the angle of the flange on the header collector. IF the motor is cocked, everything would move with it anyway. I need a better front angle so the y-pipe tail doesn't hit the driveshaft. I cannot get that by moving motor (trans, motor, header all move as one). But I'm no expert.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Engine to trans to DS yoke positions have nothing to do with engine orientation

You could flip it upside down on the shop floor and they still line up the same. If the engine is clocked wrong or the car was severely wrecked, chassis interference is a plausible explanation. Your problem is with the mechanical components, not the chassis, so the problem is the exhaust

PonyXpress

Just coming off lurk mode to say what a clean car and engine bay you've got. Looks hot. I had a torch red Fbody swap too.

TED, since you've got a degree in divinity, can you tell our friend what Matthew 7:5 reads?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

So a harness that works and a Y-pipe that fits makes me a hypocrite?

Kind of a cheap shot isnt that Bruce?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Spent the day trying to get power to the fuel pump. I have a Racetronix hotwire harness, which was working fine prior to swap. Hawks wire harness has a fuel pump relay in between the computer and the clear connector shown here. I verified with their wiring guy, that 12v is going through relay to the red wire in the clear connector shown here. The clear connector has just two wires, red and brown w/white stripe. The brown w/white mates with same on black connector. The red wire mates to brown wire in black connector.
Can't figure out why my pump won't come on. Hawks wiring guy said I could splice a line from this red wire to the grey wire (grey wire comes out of cabin to underside of car above axle where Racetronix relay is) and pump should turn on. Can I reach this grey wire inside the car at the back without too much trouble? I put a lot of Raamat down last fall and I really don't want to pull up carpet, again. I though maybe I could run the wire under the console, under carpet to back, but I'm unsure as to just where those wires exit to underneath. I'm hoping there is an easier fix. We attempted to look at the fuse panel, but clear as mud, there.
If it was Greek, I could read it ...or even Hebrew, but electrical language is something else.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ehhh.....

Thats the C207 and only one of those wires is correct, the BRN/WHT which is your MIL light on the cluster

The red looks to go to pin D which should be fan relay fuse for 89. If thats the 12v output from the new fuel relay, then it should go to the C100 (bulkhead near the booster) G8 (TAN/WHT), then follow the drivers rocker to the bulkhead behind the rear seat, then to the tank

Where are the INJ1/2, PCM fuses, speedo, P/neutral wires ran to? The C207 is supposed to hold those

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, we talked a lot about tan/white wire but I have the solid brown right next to the brown white in the black connector. Hawks wiring guy said it could be different manufacturing plants - more concerned with pin location than wire color. We never came to any conclusion where the brown wire went to because we still looked around the fuse panel, but that was confusing (some had fuses but no wire going in, some had wire going in but no fuse - too many different models and options). You're saying that brown should be fan relay fuse - would that have gone to the relays that were located by the C100 on the firewall? The old fuel pump relays was with them - three together in all.
Yes, the red wire is 12v output from new fuel pump relay. If I understand you correctly, can I take the red wire out of clear connector, attach a long wire and run under dash over to C100, find the tan/white wire and T into it (or trace it further away towards the rocker and T there? By T I mean strip away insulation (not cut) and wrap other wire around it and solder?
Don't know of Inj1/Inj2 or PCM fuses, but I'm guessing they're in the Bussman box. Speedo wire is attached to C207 pin K which is the other black connector. Don't know anything of P/Nuetral - though I did run wire over to brake light PPL wire in the C100.

If that red wire is in wrong location (came that way on the harness from Hawks), no wonder I can't get the pump going. No plug and play - plug and wonder!
Do I have that right? - connect red to a longer wire, run under dash, and T to tan/white, like behind the kick panel before the rocker? That's not too bad a fix, but wasted two more days.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats right. Strip a small section and solder it on or use a vampire clip/wire tap

Speedo is correct at pin K, you'll have to bypass the buffer box. Easy, unplug it, bend a short length of wire into a U and insert it into pins C and F

P/neutral tells the PCM when you put the shifter to park or neutral, so it can bump up the idle. Im not sure of the pin on GEN IV PCMs, but its an ORN/BLK wire

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Jon, you da man! Looking back through the adtl swap info thread, post #11

"They also ran the fan fuse through the C207 and changed the wire color from BRN to TAN/WHT. I remember from a while back that someone said the fuel pump wire ran through the C207. It doesnt, it still uses the same pin as posted above in the C100. The fuel pump wire that goes through the C207 is for the ALDL bypass and is generally cut out in the prep. Theres no point in keeping it since the OBDI ALDL is being removed/made inop and the OBDII ALDL has no provision for direct fuel pump control. This is true for the 90-92 cars as well, s dont be confused when you see a GRY wire spliced into your oil switch and fuel control in that area"

There it is!

I spliced into G4 as it was the tan/white, and nothing in G8

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Once the pump had power, so did the rest.
Had some trouble getting coolant into the block, but that's done. Thought I had something smoking from back of block, but that was just exhaust from y-pipe coming back up from the trans tunnel into the engine bay.
Have some error codes:Stainless Performance shop I was in contact with is now busy till December. They gave me a number of someone else, have appt. for next Mon to fix the y-pipe. Hoping I can take care of some of these codes and drive it home from the shop next Monday. Will also schedule dyno, tomorrow.
Here's a few pics of engine bay - still need some final fitments and to better secure some stuff. Covers are just a stop gap till I figure something better out and recover financially. I still need minor body & paint - I've never even touched up scratches or chips, ever.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sorry, G4 is correct. Had been looking at too many wires that night

EVAP, fuel level, VATS and ABS need to be deleted. If the car runs, then the VATS stuff is just remnant codes the tuner forgot to disable

P0532 is AC press low, makes sense, its not charged up yet
P0645 PCM not communicating with the AC relay. Hope they didnt hardwire it directly from the PCM
P0622 alt not charging correctly. Check your volt gauge for clues. If its approx 11-12v, the alt isnt charging. If its ~14v like it should be the alt is probably hardwired and the PCM isnt happy about it
P0300 Misfire could be anything, generally this code wont pop up by itself. The codes listed dont affect it

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Alt gauge was 10-11; that's not good. This motor sat at least 18 months (12-18 before I purchased). I have 3 connections on the post on back; hotwire; harness; battery cable)
I didn't complete any AC - waiting for Hawks
Hopefully the misfire is intermittent from sitting - maybe my spark plug boots, not sure.
Good News, none of this looks too bad so far. I've never let it run more than 2 minutes or so at a time. I'll get it up to temp, tomorrow and clean some things up.
Go Packers!

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

In post #22, I mentioned that the fit on the alternator wire was tight.
Late this afternoon, I decided to pull the alternator and take it in to test. When I went to unplug the two-wire connection, the the collapsible rubber weatherproof seal was protruding from the connector and the pin was loose. I'll still test the alternator (tomorrow) now that it's out, but if the harness wire is too short pulling on the connector is the problem, then I'm not going to be too happy. If I have to replace the alternator, I'm not going to be too happy. Basically, I'm just not too happy, but the Packers did win!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Connectors should never be taught. Through normal operation, the engine rocks back and forth along with basic vibrations from running to tight connections WILL eventually pull out

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

alternator cheched out perfect.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I tried to get whatever play was in harness before cutting open loom to see if I can get more. I plugged the connector into the alternator before sliding the alternator into position. It's not tight like a guitar string, but I probably still need more play.
The guy at the alt. shop said that one (of two) of the wires speaks to the computer. I told him that I had the same computer with the takeout. My voltage gauge is still reading one hash mark above the yellow danger zone. My exhaust appt is Monday. Not sure if I want to try and make that as I don't want to drive 15 miles or so after exhaust is fixed, and don't want to trailer (flatbed tow) both ways.
Car is running rougher than before and have two new codes: 141 and 161 - O2 heater bank codes for each side. Connectors seem fine and correct. Using Denso 2344668 O2 sensors. Still have random misfire code.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Codes 141 & 161 are banks 1 & 2 for sensor 2 (which would be post cat, correct?). If so, just need this deleted at tuner, also.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Correct

Chuck!

Could you please let me know what pedals you used for the DBW swap? Or did you post that and I just cant read?

Thanks!

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Yep, it was the harness wire too short pulling the pins out of the connector. Spliced in some extension wire and now I'm at 14.

The only pedal is the throttle pedal which I got with the takeout. Still working on a good solution - right now I have it attached to a tin sheet and just positioned up in there not attached to anything. Using the tin sheet to mock up and have thicker sheet laying around. I haven't found anything on-line, either. Anyone seen any pics? I'm halfway thinking that I'll ask the guy who's fixing the y-pipe (he's a full service shop). Depends on cost AND the fact that I'm getting tired and it's cold in the driveway!
Finished, needs minor shimming: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/634777-dbw-pedal-bracket-placement.html

Talked to the dyno shop. They suggested I purchase HP Tuners, that way I won't have to pay them a $100 cable hook-up fee. I was hoping to wait till spring for that purchase, but it makes sense. Got the standard VCM suite 2.23, THEN found out my laptop battery is dead. Instructions say you cannot have laptop cord powered - so off to buy a laptop battery. Random misfire code 300 - they said it could be a number of things; most likely the 4" CAI. Discussed all the codes I was getting and they said, "drive it on down," just no WOT and keep a scanner with you. Don't have a firm date, yet. Dyno is 80 miles away - freeway almost whole way.
Car will be on the ground this afternoon ready for tow early Mon morning.

OOps, don't have Dakota boxes in, either. Searching hasn't produced any install thread and their instructions are clear as mud. Anyone know of an install thread?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Exhaust is in. Drove it back from the shop. Off idle is still pretty rough.

Still not happy with pass side y-pipe - it should be tucked up higher. The intermediate pipe has a bracket to the TA crossmember to keep it in place.

Dyno tune scheduled for this Friday eve.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Drove 80 miles to dyno yesterday; OD gear & 65 mph all the way; 36 degrees/no snow. While dropping off the car, "you've used your HP Tuners cable to access car, right?" Yes I have. "No need for application key then." Dyno Wrong. Dyno called this morning needing it.
Dyno called again, "where's the OBDII port." Under panel by passengers left foot. I failed to tell them where the port was, but c'mon! I'm wrong.
HP Tuners has a glitch with the new beta 2.23. It won't accept the application key. I called dyno, they threatened to charge $100 if the cable wouldn't work and they had to use credits to access ECM. Had to walk dyno guy through that long process to download correct version only on my customer page. HP Tuners Wrong. We're both frustrated by now.
Dyno called again, we can't get the fans on. Car ran up to 230 degrees on dyno and we stopped. Could not manually force fans on. I called Hawks wiring guy - ran through some troubleshooting scenarios; wiring, relays, GTO uses variable speed fans so with swap tuner needs to switch to On/Off in HP Tuners menu (maybe did/didn't). Not sure who/what's wrong. Also, intermittent misfire in cylinder #8 - tough spark plug and boot to get at. Tuner hinted at coil but not sure. From what I've gathered, stock coils are durable and rarely fail. The Master Tuner couldn't tune, so he left for weekend. Not blaming him, just getting to know my new friend (Frustration), too well.

I'm hoping the tuner didn't think "swap," and didn't think of the variable fan thing. If it's physical wiring, fuse, or relay, I might have to drive down on Monday and troubleshoot in an area where I'm clueless.
Shouldn't a cylinder misfire correction be part of the tune rate charge? Not sure how the industry works/charges, here. Money is always tight, but at the end of the swap, it's tighter!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Wow what a headache. Troubleshooting your fans isnt hard

GTO fans are the same single speed fan motors GM has used since 3rd gens first got electric fans. To run them in two speeds, they play with the voltage. In low speed, they run in series, so 12v 30A runs both. In high speed they run in series so both receive 12v and 30A. They do this using 3 relays wired like this

http://www.ls2.com/boggs/LS2/engine/coolingwiring.JPG

To troubleshoot, you need to unplug your PCM and fans, then find the fan relays. If he put 3 relays in and wired them like stock, refer to the diagram above. If he used two relays to control them individually, refer to the diagram below using the PCM terminals listed above. This one is drawn for a LT1/LS1 swap in a 90-92 Fbody. 30 is red, 87 is blk/red, 85 is dk grn, 86 is brn

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...FanControl.gif

The PCM grounds the relays to engage

The misfire could be anything. Maybe a failing coil, maybe it just needs a relearn, maybe the tune isnt perfect yet, maybe something else