Andrew91GT

So compressor to the outside and turbine to the inside? What size downpipes will you run?

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

yeah..

3" downpipes....toying with the idea of channeling the floor boards with 4" pipe to give a place for the 3" to run with good ground clearance.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats where mine are now and it works pretty good so far. 3" downs all the way back under car out rear bumper. Alot of clearance this time around, as I just redid it so it tucked up nice. I'll have to get updated pics

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Please post up if you take any

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Still need to locate my OEM power steering pump (I can't remember if I sold it or kept it) But the speedway alt relocation bracket fits great.



Plan is to run the driver side header down under the PS pump and alternator. Should leave room for a downpipe too. driver side will run high, but still need to determine room for downpipe. My A/C compressor is still at my grandparents, so I need to pick it up to mock up later today. Waiting on my turbo flanges and collectors so I can figure out primary routing. I'd like to order tubing and bends for the primaries by next weekend.

I should be picking up rust free doors a section of passenger side quarter panel and a lower core support this weekend to address most of the body issues. Need to order a new passenger side battery tray since its heavily rusted, but those are available new on the aftermarket

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

your gonna run a/c too? your my hero!

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

mocked up the 4th gen A/C system. I'm going to basically replicate what ghettocruiser did by grafting together a 3rd gen and 4th gen HVAC boxes to "fit" a 4th gen evaporator.

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

I'm trying my best

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Might have found a solution for the high-side AC pressure sensor in the 4th gen lines (for those who don't want the A/C PCM controlled). I am not going to run an OEM PCM (running aftermarket BigStuff3) so I needed something different. After researching the issue I found that the shraeder valve threads (what the pressure sensor attaches to) are 10mm. I did some google hunting and found a binary pressure switch that is listed as having 10mm threads. About $50 dollars

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

sweet build, i'll keep my eyes on this one

Andrew91GT

Have you done any street driving with the atomizer injectors? What is the minimum pulse width you can run them at?

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

no street driving, but they were essentially a drop in replacement for my bosch 160s. I don't recall the PW at idle, but they had no issues keeping a clean AFR at idle on my 427.

cam-

Fireball?



Guys like you used to thrash on guys like me in the tech glory days for building a mullit mobile! LOL ( yes thats MULLIT dammit i got ****** when i spelled it right. I guess thats a bad word around here now from all the ***** talk over the years )

Welcome back.

AC? Wow..... I ditched mine this time around. I never used it on the last set up. Besides T-tops are for the true ballers

Seriously kick *** build man I wanna ride when shes done woot!!!

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

if he's giving rides and charging 20$ a ride im sure he could pay off whatever this build is costing him lol

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Scored a HVAC box in reasonable shape....broken in a small area but nothing a bit of fiberglass and time can't fix. I'm going to graft the 4th gen HVAC front section to it anyhow . tad snug around #8, but I think there's enough room to easily work with it


.

Started playing around with my header collectors and positioned my header build guide (holds the 4 primaries in perfect position to weld on the collector...

Driver side...I think I'll kick it outboard beside the alternator. currently there's a proportioning valve assembly for the OEM drum brakes in the way, but thats definately coming out :jest:. this leaves the area under the alternator/PS pump to snake a 3" downpipe through.



Passenger side. Keep collector up high so a downpipe can fit between the collector and the AC compressor. this is just an approximate position...I used one of the OEM threaded holes in the head to temporarily hold the plate. It looks like the AC lines should easily run over this area without interference.

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

I think I'm really liking the weld racing Weldstar wheels (black anodized center). I like the looks of the 3pc RT over the one piece RTS wheels.
For the front "track" wheels they have 4" width. Can also pick up some wider ones for cruising if I want...



If I leave the 9" rear 4th gen length and run the 7.5" back space



But II do have shortened Moser axles from my previous setup that will accomodate a 4" narrowing so I can run a 3.5" back space

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Since it was so crappy out yesterday, I spent some time digging for parts.

Found a set of grey interior plastics for sale (mine are tan) and a harwood 3" fiberglass bolton hood too. Really want to run the stock hood, but there just isn't enough clearance to run a proflo type intake. Its not a bad looking hood. Fortunately, parts are local and I pick them up tomorrow

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

my dual 3" down stock location with some flex pipes, bullets in the I section and dynomax ultraflo's over the axle







for your reference

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the pics!

Mocked up a pro-flo intake (thanks for letting me borrow this 1fast bird). Definately wouldn't fit under stock hood, by about 2 1/2 inches . Mounted the cowl hood and have about 1" of clearance now

Andrew91GT

Looking good!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Glad to see that crazy idea of mine is still helping some of you guys out! Im loving this build so far. I love how youre scrounging parts up and piecing things together. Its a happy medium between someone cobbling something together, and someone that throws gobbs of money at something! Its how I like to do things!

Will keep following! If you have any questions about the a/c setup, feel free..although judging by your skill levels I doubt you'll have any issues figuring it out haha.

Clearance on #8 will be tight. Not a whole lot you can do there except move the coil up some. Or mount the coils remotely. If you do that, you wont have any issues.

Good luck!

J.

cam-

fixed

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I'm likely going to remote locate the coils somewhere else. I tigged up some nice aluminum brackets to mount on the frame rails of my 4th gen and still have them. May refab them to move to the rails of the 3rd gen. Need to get an idea how to route header primaries and 3" downpipe through that area first though...its definately a balancing act LOL.

pic of what I did on the 4th gen...

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

these big billet atomizer 220lb injectors fit pretty snug on the proflo....

back of driver side rail is pretty close to the windshield wiper motor too...I think it'll fit with a 90* adapter fitting on the return line though.

90-irocdx3

iTrader: (4)

Here is what I did and I just bought some remote coil brackets on ebay.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

That pro flo is sweet...I want one...

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I like it too! Any way we can get a side picture of it sticking up over the fenderline? Seems like that might be helpful.

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Fenders aren't on the car, but I took the pic with the crash supports...

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Looks like a good weekend to blow the dust off the tig and start firing off some welds... gonna hack up my old stainless headers and crossover from the 4th gen and repurpose the bends and tubing as a mock up a new set of headers for this project.

cost of stainless bends is pretty high so I want to mock it up and buy an exact amount or maybe just use the old bends and call it a day

I do have new header and turbo flanges and collector components already

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Mounted PS pump...mocked turbos where i want them....not nearly as much room as I hoped. Looks like the charge pipes will have to go down and under the frame rail. connecting the heads to the turbine is gonna be fun

I need to fab up some sort of mount to lock the turbo into position...may use some plate welded to the shock tower and attach using the compressor cover bolts...not sure yet

may also have to notch the shock tower...need to move turbo back a hair to make sure a 3" downpipe can clear the radiator/fan shroud.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

Have you thought about moving the radiator and condenser forward?

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

problem is the condensor hardline is a fixed length. I think I have room, just need to get it all figured out. Need to pick up a good rad for it for mockup now I think....just using the OEM rad for fitting at this moment.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

are you talking about the liquid line? you can get a "repair" kit, which is basically two compression fittings and a piece of hard line used to repair areas that may have a hole in it. use that to lengthen the line.

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

I think solution is to put the turbos on a slight angle...this clocks the downpipe outlet away from the rad. Passenger side is gonna be tricky. I think the turbine inlet can go over the A/C hard line and under the line from the dryer. Plenty of room to work on the driver side

Mocked up the fenders and have about 7" of room from compressor inlet to the fender so I ordered some 6" Airaid conical filters to see what I can work with...

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Here's a pic with the fenders in place

haisud

what mpg you think you get with this setup?

tylercamaro

iTrader: (1)

WOW. this is nice. please tell me the engine bay isnt gonna look all grimey after all this nice shiny stuff goes in

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

LOL...its going to be stripped and repainted

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

who knows...might be measured in gpm depending on my right foot

haisud

Some companies with their LSx turbo kits says they get better mpg.

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

yeah...for the small turbo stuff....I'm not exactly building this for efficiency haha...

haisud

What you think is possible to build lt1 turbo setup with better fuel economy than stock lt1?
Is lt1 wider than ls1?

Roccos 89 IROC

89 iroc

Roccos 89 IROC

Can anyone help me out I got a 89 Iroc 5.7 tpi and i can't get the oil pan out I've been trying for weeks I've unhooked the exhaust and unbolted the starter and took off the torque converters dust cover and took out the motor mount bolts and raised the engine slightly but I still can get enough clearance to get it out.. can anyone help

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Fireball. That doesn't stick-up too bad. Looks like it would work with my RAII hood. You wouldn't be able to use it with a STB though. Oh well.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

for questions like this, you should really make a new thread. but since this is an easy question to answer, i'll let ya slide. the motor has to COME OUT to drop the oil pan...or drop the k-member, whichever you want to do, either way, you got a lot of work ahead of ya.

back to the original topic at hand please!

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

Nice build so far!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah seriously whats with ppl asking generic questions in very specific build threads?

Fireball heres how i mounted my turbos. Made a brace to the wells.


but instead of those poly bushings which melt easier than expected, i used 2 nuts to take up the room to space the bracket out.



It hangs well with 90 deg coupler off compressor inlet stuffed in fender. 3.5" pipe and filter inlet

ThirdGenDemon

Subbed.

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Depending on the size of spacers you need, two options that make really nice custom spacers are 1/2" stainless steel tubing for smaller spacers and 1/2" aluminum electrical conduit for larger ones. Cut to length with a tubing cutter .... viola!

If you need them to align with the body on an angle, a quick file job to one end makes them fit perfect.

BTW - Awesome build.