Arctic White 91 RS

I'm planning my next project. Given all the LS6 parts I have laying around I can have a 383 LS6 stroker with LPE ported LS6 heads and a cam of my choice for about the same cost as a pull out LS2 and swapping a cam of my choice into it. Which is the better choice for a daily driver or weekend cruiser 91 RS convertible?

The car will have 4L60e, Yank 3200 stall, 4th gen 10 bolt with 3.23s or 3.42s. The headers will be Hawks 1 7/8 3 inch collector with cut out and SLP 2OTL cat back.

Intake for the LS6 would be an LS6 intake with 90mm TPIS snout or TBSS intake.
Intake for the LS2 can be either of the two above or the stock LS2 intake.

The LS6 build will clean out the garage.

Your input is appreciated.

86White_T/A305

Hmm thats a hard choice.Neither 1 is a bad idea really.But i think you need to decide more what kind of car you want to have. I think the 383 will be slightly more of a raunchy motor given ported heads/cam and all your supporting mods. the ls2 will be more tame depending on what cam ofcourse but what I consider daily driver varies from what you might tolerate for a weekend cruiser. The 383 if you already have most of the parts..use it.

Arctic White 91 RS

The convertible has to have good driving manners.
Not stock manners but good enough my girlfriend can drive the car with without it surging and stalling.

She drives very well and is comfortable with my 99 TA's heads & cam set up which is a 224 xer M6 with 4.10s.

86White_T/A305

Well driveability is tune related. A well matched head/cam/and rear gear shouldnt have issues with surging or stalling with proper tune.Alot of things will effect how easy a mild-wild modded car can drive.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Her rear end will be the limiting factor
Plus, the ease of build (time) will make her happy. Git R done and out there cruising w/an easy and reliable build.

Arctic White 91 RS

My budget just doesn't have the $$$ to do a better rear for this project.
With the 4L60e to cushion the driveline shock I think it will be ok on the street.
If I go to the drag strip and get stupid with sticky tires I'm sure it will grenade at some point.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

I was going to say LS2 until I heard the part about cleaning out the garage. If you already have all the LS6 stuff go for that.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

You might have alot of the parts for a 383 but are you able to absorb the cost of all the machine/balance work required? Not to mention all the little things that go with a block up build? If you don't have the internals for a 383 a good used LS2 will be magnitudes cheaper. Magnitudes. Swapping a top end is a lot cheaper than building properly from the block up. Plus, you could sell off all of the other parts to fund the inevitable support parts that come with the territory.

Arctic White 91 RS

Shifty, you made an excellent point because I don't have a rotating assembly for the LS6 stroker. I can get a K1 RA for about $1850, machine work, balance & assembly labor estimate from my preferred engine builder (previous engine master challenge winner) was $2500 to $3000. There are some other parts the build would be need gaskets, bolts, new timing set, oil pump, lifters, push rods that would add $1500 so the 383 LS6 will be about $6000 to $7000. Just building an LS6 with stock stroke would be about $2k less since I have the stock parts so about $4000 to $5000 for a new LS6 with ported heads and nice cam. As with any car project I'm sure it will find a way to grow and cost more

Selling other spare parts (241 heads, cams, other intakes, TB etc) will probably net $1000 for either engine project.

The used LS2's seem to be between $3500 to $5000 depending on mileage etc.

$7000 for LS6 383 with 243 LPE Stage 2 heads & cam
$5000 for LS6 with same heads & cam
$6500 for low mileage LS2 and use the same heads after chamber is opened up for 4 inch bore & cam