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What's reasonable as far as labor cost for header installation? A guy told me $400 if minimal fab work was needed, I said they're supposed to be direct fit to my knowledge... he said "yeah, they never are"
Took the car in for inspection today... passed. All they did was come out and take down the mileage and check the VIN, signed a paper and said it was good. Took said paper next door to the Title Agency and got my clean title.
Also logged the trip, noticed coolant temp as seen in TunerPro was about 100* off unless I don't have my C/F settings correct.
Swapped the spare ECM w/ Unidentified 350 Chip for the original ECM w/ custom tuned AUJP. Let the car run a while, then took a few laps around the block. Either i'm experiencing the placebo effect or that split second lag before take off is barely noticeable... While logging I noticed 1 error but I can't see it or i'm not sure where to look.
what error where you getting, I didn't see anything wrong in the item list. does idle smell kinda rich ?
It looks like it runs about the same as your other tune. It could stand some work if it smells like fuel.
Table built, it definitely seems rich'er at some points. I know nothing about tuning, but I believe the gmsm says the blm's varies between 118-138 on a normally operating L98, just not under what operating conditions.
Would the excessive fuel smell come from the engine bay or exhaust? (I'll be checking for this in the morning)
Are the hood louvers supposed to be sealed, like water proof? Noticed the insulation was visibly wet in some areas, heck water even pooled in one spot on the intake from what I believe to have been water dripping down ...
It rained like a monsoon earlier and I only noticed this because I just went out to see how far in the manifold my Bosch 3's are installed compared to another members.
I'm sooooooooo ready for the mid-west winter weather to break... It's almost Camaro season for me and I have plans for the Z. Hopefully all the cool cats are still hanging around dropping knowledge and building badass thirdgens!
I'm sooooooooo ready for the mid-west winter weather to break... It's almost Camaro season for me and I have plans for the Z. Hopefully all the cool cats are still hanging around dropping knowledge and building badass thirdgens!
Thanks! The rims are 20in just like the 5th gen originals. I think i'm going to run 225/35/ZR20's all the way around. The 255/35/ZR20's on the rear of my 92 are tooooooo wide with the 2in spacers and when the car bottoms out the tires get chewed up by the wheel well lip. I don't want that on the iroc.
EDIT: Can I just run the 245-45-ZR20's (F) & 245-45-R20's (R) that are on them w/ the 2in adapters?
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 04-26-2020 at 11:36 AM.
Z still down, however the distributor came in from RockAuto, took the cap off and everything looks OEM. Been reading TON's of horror stories about distributor replacement. Some say mark current orientation & remove. Using old unit as ref mark new unit and just stab it in and go... while the instructions have another 40 steps including finding TDC, blah, timing, blah. Idk if I should hold off until an off day or just give it a go after work. Doing new things automotive wise is always so intimidating, I'm horribly afraid of rendering my car useless.
Removed cap after marking it & the wires, disconnected wires from icm, pulled #1 plug. Rotated engine w/ half in breaker bar watching the rotor approach sp#1 position, placed finger over hole, felt air pushing my finger.... the below pics show what i came up with...
The line marking ref of sp#1 was already there, the twig shows rotor position. Should this be dead on #1 ref point or a smidge before?
If I'm @ TDC, should the line on the HB be closer to the 0* mark?
Stuck between a tight spot and hard place literally with this dang distributor hold down bolt. The 9/16in crowfoot is right up against the intake, and to the other side there's some solenoid or device blocking me. Only 1in space to position the crowfoot and remove the distributor hold down bolt on a TPI car? Or am I approaching this wrong? Will the crowfoot on extension not work in this application like it did on a 92 TBI car?
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 10-01-2020 at 11:28 AM.
My only day off I've dug myself into a worse situation than I started with. I can't even back trace my steps in the distributor replacement because I don't know for sure how to find TDC.
Got anyone who can bump the starter so that you can feel compression out the number 1 spark plug hole ?
Nope, been using a bmf ratchet. Trying to back track and use your ref diagram. When I rotate the engine back to what I think is TDC, where the line on the HB is the same as in post # 123, now the rotor doesn't quite point at the yellow ref point. It's a little past it in a clockwise direction. When I crank it till the rotor points at ref mark on intake the line on HB is a solid inch or so away. Ref marks on actual distributor still line up as they should. Could it be off a tooth or two?
Why do I feel air forcing past the finger anytime the rotor is in range of sp1 ref mark, is that because by the time I've cranked it by hand the engine has actually made 2 revolutions getting back to sp1?
Is this the "noobs never get it on the 1st time" I've read all about... Vets make it sound and look easy, when this crap is rocket science to a 1st timer.
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 10-01-2020 at 05:30 PM.
As long as the timing Mark is pointed forward not towards number 6 wire with timing balancer mark at tdc.
turn the distributor base so it’s facing the number 1 cap terminal and put plug wires back on.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if the rotor is pointing towards the front of the engine when the timing tab is lined up at tdc its on tdc not 180 out. then put plug wires on aligning number 1 with the rotor.
if the rotor is pointing towards the front of the engine when the timing tab is lined up at tdc its on tdc not 180 out. then put plug wires on aligning number 1 with the rotor.
Cranked to line on HB is in the center of large notch in timing tab. Assuming this is 0* TDC the rotor looks to point at #4 on the cap, still facing the front of the engine. My sp1 wire won't reach that far. Thank you for helping me find that I didn't do it completely 180* out.
Since my wire won't reach far enough to continue as advised, could I remove the distributor, re-position the rotor and reinsert trying to mesh with the correct gear tooth so I can actually follow the correct wire placement on the cap?
With a long screw driver you can put it down the distributor hole and turn the oil pump shaft. Don’t drop the screwdriver 😆. This will help reorient the rotor wherever you want to point it.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 10-01-2020 at 07:01 PM.
With a long screw driver you can put it down the distributor hole and turn the oil pump shaft. Don’t drop the screwdriver 😆. This will help reorient the rotor wherever you want to point it.
Take 2 on the distributor install got me back to troubleshooting in my thread. Thanks Tuned!
Called out to a computer repair job, took the Z. Major front end wobble, side to side, shimmy/shake @ speeds I say 50mph & Up. Same experience when breaking from those speeds. Engine sounded quiet, logged there and the way back...
Can't find the info in my GMSM, and on TGO all threads end up like an argument but... is there a difference in octane requirements between years, or tbi vs tpi? Car ran questionable on a few bucks of 87 Reg unleaded, but notably different on Shell 93 VPower Nitro Blah Blah. Timing is set to 8*, but I've done no other mods.
Been researching before just ordering parts... but would failing break components lead to severe front end shaking? Anyone ever used one of those eBay Front End Rebuild kits, I see Moog PN's?
I did have the 5th gen wheels balanced when installed, made no diff. I asked for an alignment at that time but they refused citing worn front end parts but didn't tell me which one or ones
Still working at the drivability. Pulled the passenger wheel off, found the rotor / hub doesn't spin freely. It spins but it's like the brake pads are to tight? Also noticed some "play" with the inner/outter tie rod assembly. While it's connected at the spindle and center-link, and it doesn't move up & down, it does rotate side to side easily... don't know if that's normal? Heading out to check the other side... anyone got any tips?
Pulled the driverside wheel off, complete difference. The inner/outter tie rod assembly didn't budge on this side, 0 rotation. The rotor on this side was also rather clean compared to the other side, no break dust. Neither rotor has any scores, pads on both sides look thick and full of life. Would a bad inner/outter tie rod cause a front end to shake while accelerating or breaking?
So I got the eBay rebuild kit, comes with Moog PN#'s DS1049 Center Link, ES2032S Tie Rod Adj Sleves, K6249 Idler Arm, ES2227RL Inner Tie Rod Ends, ES2226RL Outter Tie Rod Ends, K6630 HD Front Stabilizer Bar Link Kit, K6145T Front Lower Ball Joints, PT8871 Front Inner Whel Seals, PTA6 Front Inner Wheel Bearings & Race Set, PTA34 Front Outter Wheel Bearings & Race Set, I hope that's right. Also ordered 2 Heated 3 Wire o2 adapters. Now I need some cheap afs-74's or the equivalent.
While waiting on parts and doing more research, decided to rebuild my histograms in TunerPro. At 1100 RPM & below BLM seems stuck on 108? Anything above 1200 RPM is super close to what I see in the service manual... Since the Z was down is there a "wait period" before the ECM relearns? I'm a little confused.
Kit arrived yesterday, assembled the centerlink & tie rods. Torqued inner tie rod to centerlink castle nuts to 35ftlbs and installed cotter pins. Ran to HF this morning for a new mini grease gun, used my 30% off any item $10 & under (limit 5 items) and cleaned up. Thanks to a young lady on YouTube lol I found out, as a grown man... I just didn't know how to load & prime the darn thing, so now I have 2 lol. Finally greased up the inner tie rods, went to head out and get started and boom... rain.
Guess I'll pass time reviewing logs trying to figure out why blm's are set at 108 under 1100 rpm. Service manual implies 118-138 is normal. Is the 10pts diff a huge diff, like running overly rich?
While the rain was on hold I grabbed a tarp, jacked her up & tore into it. Took about 1hr 45 min. Torqued centerlink to idler arm, and outter tie rod end to spindle bolts to 35ftlbs and installed cotter pins. Tried greasing, but grease kept coming back out the fitting.
What I can say, now there's no "wiggle" in the inner/outter tie rod on the passenger side, everything's stiff. I take that as a win (fist-pump x2), and I'm hoping it's safe enough for a test run (Insert prayer).
Edit: A trip a round the block was successful, no vibration or absurd shaking while breaking. The real test will be taking it in for alignment...
Last edited by 92RS-HeritageEd; 10-18-2020 at 03:52 PM.
08-21-2019, 07:22 PM
just over 1yr later... Engine Cranks But Will Not Run. 
dang distributor hold down bolt. The 9/16in crowfoot is right up against the intake, and to the other side there's some solenoid or device blocking me. Only 1in space to position the crowfoot and remove the distributor hold down bolt on a TPI car? Or am I approaching this wrong? Will the crowfoot on extension not work in this application like it did on a 92 TBI car? 
Would a bad inner/outter tie rod cause a front end to shake while accelerating or breaking?
Is the 10pts diff a huge diff, like running overly rich? 