When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I hear you can have a stock water pump refurbed if you don't want the universal aftermarket style with the return port on top. Got a couple stockers on the shelf to rebuild at some point myself, but haven't looked into a rebuilder yet. It's the limitation of small town life, not a lot of specialty shops around.
The problem is the car came with one of the goofy replacements and I don't have anymore stock pumps. (I don't think anyway)
Just read through this all again. Thats incredible all the NOS parts you're putting on this car. I dont think I’ve seen too many other guys on here try to rebuild a car like that. It has to be way harder and much more time consuming trying to find and use NOS parts compared to just buying new aftermarket stuff. Its going to look like a brand new old car lol
Stuck on the old SLP underdrive crank pulley for giggles. Took it off and its in the hatch with the slp road race alt pulley. DO NOT run them together on the street!!!
Spent over 24hrs in the garage last weekend cleaning and detailing rear suspension parts and the serp setup plus rebuilding what needed it. Trying to make it look better but still "used" is tough.
Still have the alternator and a few other things to do to get this buttoned up and dropped in
Why not rebuild a pump from the junk yard? Or did GM make a special pump for the Firehawk? In the grand scheme of things, rebuilding a water pump looks easier than most jobs. There is a place in California that I ran across that will do it. They may have pumps laying around, ready to go.
No special water pump, just haven't found the correct pump locally and even though it won't be easily seen, that's semi important to me if going for "the look".
If I do find one down the road it'll be an easy swap. You know, because everyone will notice that driving down the road lol
Spent over 24hrs in the garage last weekend cleaning and detailing rear suspension parts and the serp setup plus rebuilding what needed it. Trying to make it look better but still "used" is tough.
Still have the alternator and a few other things to do to get this buttoned up and dropped in
Another boring update.. distributor cleanup, checkout and rebuild. Pickup coil was toast. Hope the replacement parts are as good as oem. (Doubtful). Keeping the stock stuff just incase.
Another boring update.. distributor cleanup, checkout and rebuild. Pickup coil was toast. Hope the replacement parts are as good as oem. (Doubtful). Keeping the stock stuff just incase.
I dont like old HEI never had much luck -years ago I converted my 69 Chevelle wagon family truckster to one and IIR i went through 3-4 modules -yes i replaced resister wire for 12+volts and added the grease where it mounts to housing the only convienence i had is every module that quit did so when at my house hope yours works better, if you like I have a couple around that I'll never use
This isn't the older style HEI, it's the EFI type from TPI vet/ f-body. I've had the best luck with oem factory parts but hoping these delco/china(ugh) parts work..
This isn't the older style HEI, it's the EFI type from TPI vet/ f-body. I've had the best luck with oem factory parts but hoping these delco/china(ugh) parts work..
big cap is older HEI - Delco used to be the good stuff but not anymore
this is the early HEI stuff my 72 Trans am had one of these(yeah HEI started before '74) good luck finding wire set for these! IDK how reliable they were I didnt put alot of miles on it, anyways good luck hopefully you never have an issue I'm Ok with small cap separate coil HEI's - carry on and get r dun!!
big cap is older HEI - Delco used to be the good stuff but not anymore
this is the early HEI stuff my 72 Trans am had one of these(yeah HEI started before '74) good luck finding wire set for these! IDK how reliable they were I didnt put alot of miles on it, anyways good luck hopefully you never have an issue I'm Ok with small cap separate coil HEI's - carry on and get r dun!!
Yep, guess I should have said it's what I'd call the 2nd version of the big cap hei.
Back in the early 90s I had a NOS dist and wire set (like your picture) I was going to put in my old poncho but hung on to it and later sold it for decent money.
Since I haven't posted an update for awhile, here's my #1 helper snugging up the waterpump.
Making memories and learning.
I'm not going to post some of the detail shots until after Aug or so but the car is getting closer ;-)
looking good! I was noticing how you are routing spark plug wires. Do all SBC have those bolt holes for your spark plug wire holders? Where does one find these holders? One day I will get around to installing my headers and been wondering what to do.
A fun pic b4 dropping in the engine. The plan was to have a complete drive train pic all together b4 install but I'm running a bit short on time...
The problem is, it really only works with the ZF trans/shifter location. Very limited market.
Did they have to modify the tunnel for this transmission similar to cutting back for a T56? Or did they weld in a stamping specifically for the ZF? I always liked the looks of this console as well, perhaps more so because of the cars they were installed in
Did they have to modify the tunnel for this transmission similar to cutting back for a T56? Or did they weld in a stamping specifically for the ZF? I always liked the looks of this console as well, perhaps more so because of the cars they were installed in
The cars used were built as 350 autos. So they did have a hole to cut and I know there are metal stampings for the shifter area (shown in a earlier pic).
I see. For some reason I was under the assumption these cars started as LB9/5spd cars since they were going to be leaving as manuals. Did they use the same clutch hydraulics as the TPI cars then? Guess it makes sense if they were cutting their own hole for the trans to use the 350 car with none. After accumulating parts for the last three or four years to do a 383 TPIS Big Mouth 6 spd swap in my 91 Formula, I’ve been on the fence about just keeping it original. But I tell ya, watching this thread had me more and more saying hell with it and build something with period correct mods. Love the attention to detail you’re putting in and making it what looks like a true clone! All hail the 91/92 Hawks!! Just too bad they didn’t make enough to go around! LOL!!
I see. For some reason I was under the assumption these cars started as LB9/5spd cars since they were going to be leaving as manuals. Did they use the same clutch hydraulics as the TPI cars then? Guess it makes sense if they were cutting their own hole for the trans to use the 350 car with none.
From my understanding, (i'll find out soon) the trans tunnel on the auto cars is a tad roomier than the 5spd cars and the ZF is a monster. (Edit: same trans tunnel stamping says Bruce)
Yes, same clutch and hydraulics as F-body but a slightly upgraded aftermarket clutch disc and pressure plate.
Delco replacement track bar I painted and put the blue inspection marks on. Some were perfectly done others more like this and I've even seen some blues turned to a chalky light blue to white
Hard to hide the bilstiens. I couldn't find a steel cover to replace the blue plastic. I may revisit that quest later
Interesting paint markings. My 4th gen 1LE suspension parts also had blue paint jobs on them.
Yup, The control arms had the blue dabs on them from GM/supplier. These are NOS but guessing they are from 02ish. I didn't check the date code on them.
Not sure what the blue means in the PHB but i'm fairly sure it was put there by the panhard bar supplier. I put these blue marks on this PHB.
The rear control arms are NOS GM 1LE/WS6 (same bushings in both)
This car is FAR from perfect but will look better to me with some use.
Yup, not sure what the blue means but i'm fairly sure it was put there by the panhard bar supplier (I put these blue marks on). This car is FAR from perfect but will look better to me with some use.
Originally Posted by Maplehawk
Interesting paint markings. My 4th gen 1LE suspension parts also had blue paint jobs on them.
I would bet that the blue meant harder durometer bushings for 1LE. When SLP was clearing them out I bought a couple sets of harder durometer LCA bushings they even fit the old A-body chevelles control arms but bolt hole is a little tighter than The a-body bolts but I made them work Looks great so far Tony this has me thinking about a T56 swap for my car
The gaskets that go between the header and Y pipe flange look like what I would need for my Accel headers.I had to make mine out of gasket material.
Can they still be purchased?
They are long out of production and the company that made them is gone too. IIRC, your headers are a bit bigger? In my research of these, there are some import 4cyl car exhaust that come very close to these.
It would be nice if cometic could make them, would be a far better gasket for that. (will be contacting them soon)
Edit: I spoke with cometic and they said they could make the Tri-Y collector gaskets with the metal ring for 30-40 bux a pair.
I'll measure the slp collector gaskets 2night. Still working on the T-ram gasket kits. Found a new place that will do them just need to finish it all up.
Picked up the blueprints I had made for the brembo hat/hub and caliper bracket to mount the brakes. May be offering those parts later in the year.
Detailed the yellow bilstein strut to look stock, bolts spindle and brake bracket. Need to put the paint inspection marks on the a-arm and spindle. Also, need decal for the strut.
Trying out the yellow wheels. Will strip and paint them all later with hood and maybe bumper covers
Yup, not sure what the blue means but i'm fairly sure it was put there by the panhard bar supplier (I put these blue marks on). This car is FAR from perfect but will look better to me with some use.
could indicate side to mount. I noticed white/pink on my left/right strut mounts. Pretty certain that was to identify which side they should go on to make things easy on the assembly line. Seen a few other similar markings around the car but haven't figured out what they are for.
04-28-2019, 09:59 AM
