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I keep Steel Putty or JB Weld Steel Stick Putty, in the shop. You cut off what you need, "Kneed" it together . It sets up hard in about 5 minutes and full strength in a bit more. Great when you working with old car, interior plastic, that breaks easily. The quick set time keeps one working, without waiting hours to proceed.
I keep Steel Putty or JB Weld Steel Stick Putty, in the shop. You cut off what you need, "Kneed" it together . It sets up hard in about 5 minutes and full strength in a bit more. Great when you working with old car, interior plastic, that breaks easily. The quick set time keeps one working, without waiting hours to proceed.
I will have to try that sometime, sounds like good stuff. The plastic weld sets in about 5 minutes and cures in an hour according to the package.
I was checking out my RPO codes and noticed the car came originally with a center console cassette holder, I had never heard of the option. Also saw a cool post on FB after where a guy found one so I decided I had to have one as it was original to my car. I lucked out big time when searching for one when Hessm70 sold me his which was in excellent condition. Now the car is as equipped when it rolled off the showroom floor in 88’.
I was checking out my RPO codes and noticed the car came originally with a center console cassette holder, I had never heard of the option. Also saw a cool post on FB after where a guy found one so I decided I had to have one as it was original to my car. I lucked out big time when searching for one when Hessm70 sold me his which was in excellent condition. Now the car is as equipped when it rolled off the showroom floor in 88’.
I just installed a window racer on my car and I was impressed with how much faster the windows are now. It was a pretty easy install and I have it tucked away under the hush panel with a few zip ties through a hole near the column, should not interfere with anything in that location.
I tried to post some videos but they wouldn’t load up.
I saw that in the other thread. Interesting product. Mine are slow like the rest, but I'm patient. Still, this would e a nice upgrade to try some day. I do wish they would tell you how it works. If it is upping the voltage, I guess I'd be OK with a few extra, but if it's 16-17 volts as one poster in the other thread speculated, I'm not sure I'm comfortable doing that to the old motors.
Sure, I wish the power windows on my '89 IROC Z and '79 Trans Am were as fast as the windows my '03 Town Car, '00 Ford Excursion, etc. But my view is, they were good enough for 30-40 years, why reinvent them now?
I saw a few members have had the window racer for more than a few years with no issue which is what finally got me over the edge. The manufacturer claims it lowers amp usage to make the motors work better, I’d be curious to know exactly what it does though.
Also my windows weren’t terribly slow for a 30+ year old car (especially after lubricating everything “last year or so) and not as slow as the 96’ Firebird we had in the family years ago but I was still intrigued enough to give it a shot. I will update if I have any issues.
Mike I remember the old 79’ TA I had the power windows were surprisingly quick for a car that old but that was over 20 years ago. Also 79’ is my favorite year of the second gens, those cars were so cool. Please share a pic if you have one.
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I just installed a window racer on my car and I was impressed with how much faster the windows are now. It was a pretty easy install and I have it tucked away under the hush panel with a few zip ties through a hole near the column, should not interfere with anything in that location.
I tried to post some videos but they wouldn’t load up.
I still haven't installed mine yet Got any pictures of where you put yours? I'm wanting to fabricate a simple bracket to mount it.
I still haven't installed mine yet Got any pictures of where you put yours? I'm wanting to fabricate a simple bracket to mount it.
It is super easy and took 5 minutes, I used an existing hole/screw for the ground and for mounting it about 3 zip ties through a hole near the steering column. There was no interference with the column or anything else.
When you have the hush panel removed it will be pretty obvious as to where to place it, it fits really nice there and the thing is so bulky there’s only so many places it can fit. To give you a better idea though it’s to the right of the fuse panel almost below the column.
Was just checking out you have a thread great job very detailed over the years but I was a little curious about the ECM replacement you stated
"decided to replace my ECM with a brand new NOS AC Delco made in USA reman unit #16198259 found on Ebay, a direct replacement for the old 1227169."
I didn't recognize this 169 ECM for an 88. Was the wrong ECM in this car or am I mistaken and some GTA's came with the 1227169 ECM
Was just checking out you have a thread great job very detailed over the years but I was a little curious about the ECM replacement you stated
"decided to replace my ECM with a brand new NOS AC Delco made in USA reman unit #16198259 found on Ebay, a direct replacement for the old 1227169."
I didn't recognize this 169 ECM for an 88. Was the wrong ECM in this car or am I mistaken and some GTA's came with the 1227169 ECM
Thanks, the car has come a long way from when I found it.
The car had the correct original ECM when I replaced it, most of the F body cars had 169 ECMs until the switch to speed density in 90’ IIRC.
The last one I got worked well! Just pay attention as you can see I had one replacement that give bad readings. Can't remember which brand was good and which one wasn't. I will have to go back and look.
Another small project completed today, I took a shot at getting better hood and front clip alignment. By adjusting a few of the bottom 4 rubber stoppers and lowering the hood latch mechanism a small amount it really improved the alignment of those panels. I also adjusted one of my pop up light pods to be a little better.
Fit and finish were not exactly hallmarks on these cars but they can be improved with a little work. Unfortunately I didn’t have my phone when I did this to show a before and after.
Next project will be replacing the OE knock sensor as it appears I am picking up what looks to be false knock counts on old data scans. I found a NOS AC Delco so hopefully that does the trick, if not more troubleshooting and looking for signs of false knock when weather improves.
I also need to get a new battery as the one in there is testing bad and has low cranking volts before storage, another month or so and that will be done.
I replaced the old knock sensor, looked to be original and I was surprised it didn’t fight me more. All I had to do was use some PB blaster and it broke loose, I was easy on it as I didn’t want it to separate or strip out. I barely lost any coolant as well, it was tight putting the new one in but I got it and torqued it down to 12ft lbs.
Spec is 15 ft lbs but I read a few threads where Rbob (pretty serious contributor in EPROM stuff) recommended as low as 11ft lbs to help with over sensitive knock detection so hopefully 12 does the trick. Weather permitting in about month in a half I will be able to get it back on the road and run some data scans to see if my knock retard at WOT is taken care of.
Looks crusty
Still made in Mexico like the new ones but I like NOS for sensors when I can find them.
Looks like NOS genuine GM to me and was less $ than new rockauto.
Just picked up a new Duracell battery today for the GTA, I originally wanted an Everstart Maxx but the local Walmart was out of stock and had been that way for awhile so I found basically the same battery at Sam’s club which is the Duracell. It’s the same battery from what I can tell made by East Penn with 690 CCA and 850 CA and the same price if $139. A same spec battery at the parts store is over $200.
The old Interstate was a good battery lasting over 5 years but the new ones seem to not be nearly as good as I’ve seen on here and a few other forums so I made the change to East Penn, still made in the USA.
Before I drop it in I think I will clean up a little rust in the tray, I remember I half assed did that 6 years ago but will do better this time with drill, self etch primer etc.
Still nice and solid but might as well do it right with the battery out
Very nice, if you don't mind, let me know how the battery tray cleanup goes, and what primer etc you end up using, I am about to do the same cleanup to mine (surface rust).
Very nice, if you don't mind, let me know how the battery tray cleanup goes, and what primer etc you end up using, I am about to do the same cleanup to mine (surface rust).
What I have been using for minor rust repair jobs is Rustoleum self etch primer, typically 2-3 coats and once it’s set up I hit it with the Duplicolor factory match rattle can. I have had pretty good luck with that as a primer on my small touch up jobs.
I want to eliminate that pitting completely but can’t get in there with my grinder so I have been using my drill with a wire brush attachment, my dremel and hand sanding with 60 grit sand paper, after about 2 hours it’s as good as I’m going to get it.
What I have been using for minor rust repair jobs is Rustoleum self etch primer, typically 2-3 coats and once it’s set up I hit it with the Duplicolor factory match rattle can. I have had pretty good luck with that as a primer on my small touch up jobs.
I want to eliminate that pitting completely but can’t get in there with my grinder so I have been using my drill with a wire brush attachment, my dremel and hand sanding with 60 grit sand paper, after about 2 hours it’s as good as I’m going to get it.
thanks!! this looks like exactly what I am going to be doing as well, let me know how it turns out
It turned out pretty good, after doing the best I could removing the rust I cleaned up the area with brake clean then hit it with 3 coats of self etching primer and then three coats of color match in a can. Temps were pretty good but I used my heat gun before and after each coat to help speed up dry times.
I also pulled a rusty fender support piece and cleaned that up as well, only difference in procedure was I could get naval jelly on that to help best the rust back, it was also in worse shape than the battery tray.
After grinding and sanding. Fender support piece after I cleaned it up/sanded off rust. Self etch primer Primed Finished product
Turned out nice.
I am going to let everything dry for at least a week before reassembly/putting the battery mat and new battery in but it looks way better than before and hopefully keeps the rust at bay.
Tray came out nice. I fought this battle some years back on mine as well. Starting here, and a few posts down are pics of mine. You will also see that I added a Battery Mat, as much to absorb any stray acid as to pad the tray and protect the paint and primer from being abraded away by the battery case.
Tray came out nice. I fought this battle some years back on mine as well. Starting here, and a few posts down are pics of mine. You will also see that I added a Battery Mat, as much to absorb any stray acid as to pad the tray and protect the paint and primer from being abraded away by the battery case.
Yours turned out very nice, I have what I believe is the factory battery mat or if not factory a very nice fitting aftermarket someone added along the way.
Not that it really matters but I finally found a set of SLP modified air ducts for my car. I doubt they do much but my OCD wouldn’t let them linger on eBay any longer.
Also I am still battling what I am pretty certain is false knock, the new knock sensor did not correct the issue but I have a different ECS module on the way that the Corvette crowd claimed eliminates false knock in the L98. The only problem is the part is nearly impossible to find, I couldn’t believe I found one on eBay.
The part if anyone is curious is GM part# 16038331 and if you look there are quite a few aftermarket versions but it seems to be unobtanium at this point. Which is unfortunate because a lot of the C4 guys swore by it some time ago, a Corvette guru named Gordon Killebrew popularized it.
Hopefully it cures my false knock, if not I will have to dig in and see if I can find it or have my local shop take a crack next month at state inspection time. I poked around underneath and everything seems tight (exhaust, motor mounts etc) but it is only getting knock under acceleration it seems which makes it hard to check.
Turns out the timing chain has some slack which was causing the knock counts/retard. In a few weeks I will get that squared away and hopefully my issues will be taken care of. I never thought the chain could be the problem but after 30 years and 95k miles it makes sense that it would loosen up.
I was also informed one of my early repairs on the oil cooler hoses needed to be looked at, the rubber hoses didn’t quite have enough hose on the pipes…once I dug in I quickly realized why they were short as it’s so tight in there trying to maneuver the hose. Once it was all said and done I was covered in coolant but had the new pieces of 3/4 heater hose situated correctly, I even got the Hawks oil cooler pipes aligned better. The alignment of the straight 3/4 heater hose is great on one side and good on the other, I almost went hunting for a piece with a bend at the parts store but I think the straight piece will work as it’s not pinched or kinked.
Last edited by Reddragon88gta; 05-08-2024 at 08:43 PM.
08-09-2023, 02:05 PM
Got any pictures of where you put yours? I'm wanting to fabricate a simple bracket to mount it. 
