So I'm originally from NW Indiana (Hammond), but currently reside in the northside in Skokie. Since I didn't see a "Northside" forum I figured this would be the place to post. Yesterday I bought an 86 Z with the following: The motor is: punched .030" over, line bored, machined, honed, balanced rods and crank Factory matched Sealed Power Hypereutectic pistons Hastings moly rings Melling high volume oil pump single piece drive rod Pro Comp Noisey timing gear set Erson 465/488 cam ( I have the cam card ) 3947041 GM heads, 2.02" intake valves, 1.94" exhaust valves, 64cc chambers, with 170 cc runners The pressed in studs were removed, and tapped for the threaded studs 1.260" O.D. springs with dampers stamped retainers and keepers 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms PBM flat tappet hydraulic lifters Edlebrock Performer RPM intake Holley 1850 4 bbl Holley blue elctric pump ARP bolts throughout(except head bolts) Accel performance HEI distributor Taylor Spiro ignition wires new plugs Edlebrock shorty headers Y pipe Flowmaster single chamber to a dual outlet in the rear ( in conjunction with the noisey gear, this car sounds F&%$ing tough! ) Fel Pro perma torque gaskets The Transmission is a... 700 R4 with a shift kit ( it hits hard even with mild line pressure) mild convertor ( i do not know the stall) Aluminum cooled pan trans cooler mounted in the front of the car B &M ratchet slapshifter Polyurethane mounts n the rear, it has... a GM 10 bolt Posi with a 4.56 gear What I plan to do ASAP: subframe connectors (could someone please suggest some?) Electric radatior fans electric trans cooler fan battery relocation cold air kit strut braces Please suggest anything you think you think will help! Thanks guys! And yes I'll have better pics ASAP

few more:

Welcome!

I've never been a fan of those hose covers...i'd toss those things right away.

I haven't had a chance to like or dislike em yet.

wow nice ride! if you dont mind me asin what did you pick it up for?

It looks like is already pretty much built for drag racing. that rear end wouldn't be much use on anything other than a drag strip. I wouldn't run slicks with a 10 bolt though.

The gear is tall, I know, but it does surprisingly well with the 700. Any why no slicks with the 10 bolt?

throw a set of racing seats in with 4 or 5 point harness.. i just installed a set of racing seats in my car and they are soo cumfy and it gives the car a whole new feel. go wit sphon on the sub frame connectors.. and get them welded in much better then bolt up in my opinion.. u could find a 91- 92 car and use the body kit from it to give it that low mean look.. u can also get the strut brace from sphon too and save on shipping if ordering them both at the same time.

Really? I was worried the seats would be uncomfortable! I had SO SOO much 82-92 parts 3 years ago, but I sold it and my project car when I moved to Chicago from Indiana. The frame and braces are a must of course. A small cage maybe too.

you wanting a cage or roll bar? cage includes the halo. thats pretty much for all out racing. an 8 point roll bar is prolly the way to go. a lot of drag strips wont let you race without a roll bar if your car is hitting a certain speed. the 8 point is accepted at most if not all drag strips. plus it just looks tougher

A picture is worth a thousand words.


It may not do it on the first run, but its a guarantee that it won't last long with traction and power.

A 4.56 is alot of torque multiplication off the line. 10bolts have problems with the axles most commonly. Do a search for C-Clip eliminators.

for one, ditch all that rubber hose going to the carb, that's asking for a fire.

then grab an electric fan, that mech. fan is robbing a lot of free HP.

and....ditch the covers IMO




looks nice otherwise.

Great point about the fuel line, and what covers are you ripping on?!

I'd love a 9", but I don't want to have to customize everything or spend a bunch on a 12 bolt. Do you guys think it'd be better to beef up the 10 bolt, or go with something else?

those covers over the heater hoses and the radiator hoses. i'd check over that whole car top to bottom and fix things like the fuel line, that crappy filter that is asking to leak, etc. to make the car safe first off.

Don't bother spending a dime on that 10 bolt, I popped 4 of them rather quickly one summer before grabbing a 9 bolt which lasted me a while, but now it's moser 9" all the way. I never have to worry about the rear basically, but it comes at a huge cost.

So braided steel is the way to go on those fuel lines? And I found a 9" ford too. What's a reasonable price for one?

only if it's a bolt in ford 9" for a thirdgen is it worth buying, no torque arm mount then skip it. they're usually $1500-1800 used typically. braided steel or regular old parts store brakeline in whatever diameter is needed from the mech. pump to the carb.

Aren't there adapters for mounting a torque arms to a 9"?

So got the whole rear end thing figured out thanks to you guys in a different thread! Any suggestions on how to connect my stock GM rear brake lines to the ford wheel cylinders?

no you'd want to buy an aftermarket housing and axle package. This would have the GM bolt pattern for axles and take GM brake setups as well. If the housing doesn't come with torque arm provisions then it's not safe to run IMO. I've seen a bunch of poorly cobbled together torque arm mounts from guys at home and they don't look safe.

I respect your opinion, but I must disagree. Why would they even offer a TA bracket if it wasn't safe?

who offers a stand alone TA bracket? all the moser stuff is welded onto their housing which is thicker and stronger overall than any junkyard housing will be. I don't see why you're still questioning this, if you want to toss in a 9" buy an aftermarket housing. If you can't afford it then you probably can't afford the rest of the pieces to go fast enough to need one.

Currie makes the bracket:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CES...E.aspx?id=1595

I got a great deal on a 9" for my camaro that's ready to go minus the TA bracket, thus the reason I asked about the brakes.

Here's the rear I bought:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...9-ford-my.html (Bought a 9" Ford for my camaro)

Relax man, this is my first 9" install and I've had a lot of questions so far. I'm 25 so it's not like I have $10K laying around to drop on my car.

Welcome and nice looking car.

If you are gonna get a 9", Do it once and do it right.

Me on the other hand and waiting for my 9 Bolt to blow up. lol

WRONG. You can weld a TA mount or basically anything else to the center of a 9" if you have a strong enough welder and can lay down a decent bead. The thing to watch out for is putting too much heat into it at one time. That can warp the housing.







I had the housing and main brackets built and then welded on the LCA lowering brackets, PHB lowering bracket, and caliper brackets. If I had to do it again, I'd probably weld on all the brackets so I could make them lighter. It's metal, not witchcraft.

PS- If you build them right, they don't add weight either. Mine weighs 216lbs complete, dry, with the 3rd link vs. a 10-bolt @ 213lbs complete, dry, with the stock torque arm.

Either way it looks like he bought a 3.00 geared open diff center with a mini spool, no torque arm provisions and 28 spline axles which are easy to snap. A better choice would have been a 31 splined setup out of a bronco, but still the widths will be off, the rims won't bolt on and the currie torque arm setup uses 2 bolts instead of the large moser piece which is thicker and utilizes 3 bolts. Along with a factory housing not having as thick of tubes, drain/fill plugs, etc. For a grand for a housing/axle package that is all new components, setup for this chassis, takes factory GM brakes and chevy bolt pattern rims I'd say it's a no brainer.

A 1.94 exhaust valve?!