Marty'82T/A406

I'm talkin street tires not dr's. Just curious to see how well these 3rd gens can hook a street tire with the proper suspension. If you post a 60 please include your suspension set up and the size of the rear tire and rim.

Thanks,
Marty

ATOMonkey

2.0 w/ no tire spin.

245/50/R16 Fireston Firehawks new in '00

see sig

mean 5.7

1.9 on stock susp w/ z rated tires 245-50-16
with a 3.27 stock rear gear

Larrys T/A

2.01 w/ 2400 TC

88 IROC BOB

About 3 years ago I had a couple of 1.95's on totally stock suspension. The tires were Firestone SVX 245/50/16's.

Bob

Craig84Z

iTrader: (2)

2.095 with stock 15x7 rims and Hoosier tires 235/60. Eibach pro-kit springs and no relocation bracket.

Craig

going to get my car dynoed Saturday(7/13/02)

ThirdGenZ28 92

1.903 on BFG VR4 255/50/16s, stock suspension and 2k stall at Englishtown RWP. Also I have a 1.905 on Futura(cheapos) 255/50/16s, Spohn LCAs and adj PHB and Eibach Pros at Atco RWP...(both are street tires, 32 psi).

Marty'82T/A406

I noticed most of your suspension set ups are not drag oreinted. Makes those 60's look even better!!! What do ya'll think I could do w/ front sway bar removed/drag suspesion/ and about a 295/50 or 275/60 tire? A few of my old ls1 buds got down into the 1.7's on 275/45 tired 6 speeds. Anybody seen a 3rd gen pull 1.7-1.8's on a street tire?

ThirdGenZ28 92

Theres a moderator on the TPI board that if I remember correctly has 60fted in the 1.8s on street tires. The best part is its a 305 and a vert, pretty impressive....

Marty'82T/A406

Indeed

88 427 Camaro

1.88 on 8 inch wide BFG touring ta's 15 inch. Rolling into the throttle with stock 2.8 liter suspension.

Miles

paul_huryk

I typically run 2.1 to 2.15, but that is easing it out and flooring it at about 20 feet, it doesn't spin then. If I nail it off the line it will flash the converter to 2700 and kill the tires. I run Michelin Pilots 245-50-16.

I did have a friend who ran 1.80 on Coopers in the 245-50-16 size. The car was wierd, it had a stock 400 SBC out of a 1975 wagon that made 240hp and 415lbs o torque. In a stock suspensioned 1984 TA it would run 1.8 on the Coopers but would die out after about 500 feet or so. It was on a 13.5 pace at 660; then died a bad death of 14.5 in the quarter (at 94 mph). Even better was the fact the car ran 2.73 gears and a stock converter (it did stall higher with the 400). It was so butchered but pulled ridiculously hard for the first 500'. Back in 1991 he never lost a race until after the 500' mark on the street. Kicked my *** by about 6 cars (when my car ran 15.1 with the 305) and then I would gain 2 of the cars back at the end. The car was a freak.

Pony Killer

Ran a 2.097 60'er last night with my formula

It's an 88 formula 305 tuned port, 5spd, 3.45's Stock suspension, on 245/50 vr16's


mods,cat back, and a K&N

Craig84Z

iTrader: (2)

Ponykiller,

You might as well give us the rest of the quarter mile numbers to go along with your 60'er.

Craig

Pony Killer

I ran a 14.84 @ 92.1 last night with it. Unfortunately i wasted that 2.097 on a run where i missed 4th, and skittered my way to a 14.88@ 89.9

It runs fairly well for a Lightly modded lb9.

jms

iTrader: (1)

I've got a bunch of 2.00s on 1/4 times of 14.00 to 14.09s (98.5-99.6 mph) using 255-50/16 Pep Boy Ultra Zs at 24-26 psi.

The car is an '88 GTA with 350/automatic and 3.27 gears. A few of the free-type mods but nothing much internal (3-angle valve job and 1.6 rockers).

jms

92superram

The best I could get last time was 2.3 60', but I still ran a 13.6 at 104mph. As soon as I can afford a tc and 4.10 gears, I'll post my new 60' times(sould brake 2sec), The suspension is pretty built, and the tires are dunlop sp sport 5000s, but the lack of low end torque, and the stock tc are killing my 60ft times.

86ZZ4

2.10, SSM lift bars , 2400 converter 3:73.leaving at idle,spinning 30-35 feet then flooring it . 275/60/15 remington tires.If it would hook at all,I think the lift bars would work great,way it is ,it just blisters the tires right away,no chance for any weight transfer.

REVLIMIT

my best on street tires was like...mid 2.4's O_o

Phantomht

with stock V6 Berlinetta suspension, [except the Eibach 1.5" Lowering springs], i had a 1.94 60' at Irwindale Thursday Nite Drags on General street tires [cost me 50$ ea. at Tucker Tire in Azusa], running 30 psi in the rears and 35lbs in the fronts, tire size is 275 60R15 on steel chrome Camaro Ralleye rims [Heavy!]

I started out NOT doing wet/dry burnouts cause people told me it was useless, and maybe it is with 'other' street tires, but the first time i did a dry burnout [just for fun!] my 60 went from 2.3's to low 2.1's., it was also the first time i broke in to the 12.'s with a 12.83 [Fontana 1/4mi. Drags], later i installed Eiback Drag Launch Springs, S&W SFC's, Lakewood Trailing arms and a Hotchkis panhard bar and last time out to Irwindale i got in 7 runs, all ranging from 2.09 worst to a 2.01 best for that day. - This is ALL with 2.73 gears in a stock 10-bolt posi.

Another HUGE factor is different TRACK surfaces. As i said above:
Irwindale i got a 1.94 best [new suspension w/burnout]
Fontana i got a 2.12 best [old stock suspension w/burnout]
Rialto [old track surface] - i got a 2.44 [old stock suspension & no burnout]
[New track surface] - a 2.23 [old stock suspension & no burnout]
and at ESTA Drags in Cicero, NY i got a best of 2.10 [new suspension w/burnout]

iroc_cragg

What technique did u guys use to get such good 60ft time. I can only manage a 2.5. Do u think I can improve on that much.

Ed Maher

Yeah, i've run quite a few 1.8s at this point on completely stock suspension and Dunlop SP5000 255/50-16

The secret to my success is the converter, copied from my before/after post when i put the convereter in, my timeslip did this in similar conditions, around 70', fair barometer, etc

old - - - - new
2.063 - 1.875 - 60'
5.960 - 5.689 - 330'
9.193 - 8.924 - 1/8
75.67 - 75.64 - mph
12.007 - 11.734 - 1000'
14.380 - 14.106 - 1/4
95.24 - 95.37 - mph

My current best 60' is a 1.85. Unfortunately i haven't actually improved on the slip in the 90' temps i keep ending up seeing at the track. These days i've only been seeing ~94mph, but my chip is way off, i'm running a lot less timing, and a ridiculous amount less fuel then i did in 'good' air. If i spend an all day TnT on this thing this fall it will see high 13s and 96-97mph as it sits.

As mentioned above, yes my suspension is completely stock. I am known to drop an endlink off my swaybar at the track, but i've done low 1.9s with it still connnected without breaking a sweat. I like how it feels off the line a lot better with it off though so i haven't wasted much time perfecting launching with the front end tied. If you follow the link to my website in my sig there are a few pics of me coming off the line to give you an idea how much front end lift this thing gets

I launch just off idle, and smoothly and relatively slowly roll into the throttle. For those of you who just can't hook, i'm willing to bet your problem is one of your feet. Either you're not fully off the brake when you get into the gas, or you're just stabbing the pedal way too hard or even both practice getting your left foot off the brake before your right foot moves, and then smoothly digging into the gas. I've never actually paid close attention, but i'd guess my foot comes off the brake when the first yellow goes, a solid 0.5-0.7 before green.

Also, don't listen to ANYBODY when it comes to tire pressure and burnout. Not even me. Some people really do get good results with higher than street tire pressure in radials. All my cars have done better dropping some pressure. The only way to know for sure is to test and tune, and make sure you're consitent in your launch technique too to make the comparison fair. If you change more than one variable, you have no idea if it was your foot or the tires that walked you off the line.
Same with burnout. Some tires do pretty good with just alight cleaning burnout. My dunlops were that way when they were new. Once they got near the wear bars though i found i needed to do a solid few seconds of smoke to get them to hook. Yeah you might 'look' stupid doing a long burnout with street tires, but the only guy's laughing at you probably have a fistful of 2.2 60's to show for all their 'knowledge'

Thats all the advice i can give really. After i killed those dunlops in the spring i put a set of nittos on this thing. Only been on a track twice with them, and both times the prep sucked and it wouldn't hook at all. Of course my idea of not hooking is going sideways running 1.9s while everyone else on street rubber was way in the 2+ range. My how perceptions skew once you get a little faster. The goal though is to actually be able to preload the converter pretty hard on the line and try to get a stock heavy 305 into the 1.7s. This converter has soooo much thrust available that i haven't even been able to tap into yet. On the dunlops on pavement i could brake torque to 2500 without much throttle, JUST let off the brake and it would haze the tires for 50'. And thats without hitting it, just letting the car catch up....

92superram

I love my spsport5000 tires. they are the bomb(blew a big hole in my wallet), they hook good, handle great, and are cool looking. A great all around tire for a street/occasional strip car.

Skweezn87

The best I have pulled w/ street tires is a 1.69 on stock suspension..this was on a 1/8 mile track. ran 8.0@86 (last year)

I averaged 1.85 most of the time...

Tires I used were RE730's 245/50/16

Rick

Justin 87 GTA

iTrader: (3)

1.84 60ft. on Nitto 245/50/16 street radials!. This was before the supercharger and suspension mods. After the suspension mods the car still hooked. I have some drag shocks sitting at home that should get me into the high 1.7's alond w/ the sc. We'll see. It took alot of practice and adjustements in technique to achieve a 1.8, but I believe all of these cars are capable of it. I actually have Ws6 w/ poly bushings and what not. It should be harder for me to do it, than a stock mushy suspension car.

92superram

a little off topic, but could someone explain the endlink thing? how does it help? does it matter which side? I might try this next time at the track.

Ed Maher

The endlink thing:

- When you park the car, before you turn it off turn the wheel all the way to the left as far as possible.

- Lay in front of the driver's side tire (yes it matters which side you do, DS it is) and put a box wrench over the bolt on top of the endlink

- Use your ratchet to then take the endlink off.

Note, this is made easier if you were smart enough to anti-seize the endlinks when you put them on. If not, you are in for some work. Also, if they are not relatively new endlinks, don't do this the first time at the track. Chances are the endlink will just break when you try to take it off. Not that you can't drive with the endlink off, you just have to keep in mind your front end will be very loose, it'll feel like you're driving grandpa's caddy when you turn. But that looseness is exactly what helps the front end come up and transfer weight on launch.

Synapsis

I have Hotchikis rear control arms, Hotchkis panhard bar, Edelbrock torque arm, new KYB rear shocks, and stock springs. With this setup on crappy Goodyear tires I'm pulling a best 60 foot of 2.1.

Doing the driver's side endlink improved my 60 foot by .05 to .1.

My question is, would removing my Hotchkis strut tower brace help my 60 foot?

I'll be trying out my Hoosier tires this Friday, I'm hoping to at least break a 2.0 60'.

Ed Maher

Besides losing a pound or 2 off the front, taking the STB off isn't going to help weight transfer any.

The sway bar makes such a big difference because it lets the wheels move independently of each other. When you launch, the car tries to lift the left front wheel more than the right front. With the sway bar on, the wheels are effectively tied together so they can only come up together at the same time. With it undone at the endlink, the right front can come up faster and higher than the left front, letting the suspension do it's job.

Marty'82T/A406

Some impressive 60's so far guys

JPrevost

Uncalibrated Tazzo said 2.13 60' with a passenger, 245/50 16 khumo z rated, high stall converter, Eibach pro's, boxed LCA and panhard, 3.73 torsen, 90 degree weather and 100% humidity. It was all rolling into the throttle while spinning the tires the whole way. If I didn't ***** foot the throttle the tires would just smoke and I wouldn't move . I think it's time for me to get the LCA relocation brackets installed. If anybody wants to go drifting or learn to do it, my car is the perfect machine. Front is on rails and the rear is nothing but wheel hop. I've been known to swing the rear out on any and every corner .
I'm looking to get in the 1.8 range on these tires with the relocation brackets and better brake pads to hold the car from rolling and allowing me to get some more stall speed before the launchs.

91L98Z28

I've got a best of a 1.98 using yokohama S306 tires.

The tires are a V-rated street radial, M&S, 300 treadwear rating, performance/touring tires, size is 245-50-16. If they are cold the best they will do is about a 2.3. Basically on my first run of the night I just launch at WOT and let the tires get blown away, on the later runs they will hook good at about 80% launch, going to 100% WOT after half a second.

Pertinent mods are KYB gas-a-just rear shocks and an ACT 9.5" 2400rpm converter. Stock front shocks, and I don't unhook the sway bar or anything, I just run the car as I drive it. It's a 91 z28 5.7 with the 3.23 posi rear. Stock suspension/bushings (except the KYb shocks). I've only got 8 runs on the car (and 8 runs total lifetime experience) so far so I think there is probably a bit more left.

jms, 99mph traps are pretty impressive, what all have you done?

Synapsis

Last Friday I got a best of 2.17 on Hoosier drag tires. I just don't understand why I can't improve it.

91L98Z28

synapsis-

two ways you can figure it out.

(1) practice

(2) let an experienced driver give you 2-3 rides down the 1/4 in your own car.

with regards to practice, try different things. are you doing a burnout? have you tried a WOT launch? are you getting wheelhop? what kind of TC do you have? Do you have a slipping posi?

Synapsis

I'm doing a burnout.

I can't do a full WOT launch because I'll roll through the lights.

No wheelhop at all.

Stock TC. <-- probably the problem.

Just found out the posi is starting to slip. <--- another problem.

I'm just gonna stop going until I get fix the driveline.

91L98Z28

no no no- that's not what i meant by a WOT launch.

What I meant by a WOT launch, is going WOT when you go.

let me put it another way.

on my 1.98 60ft run, I sat at the light, at idle, foot lightly on the brake, NO THROTTLE.

on the last amber, I simultaneously took my foot off the brake, and went to about 85% throttle. half a second later, I went WOT.

When I was powerbraking the car (which it sounds like you are doing?), I never got below a 2.3. My 60ft times started dropping as soon as I started launching from an idle.

jms

iTrader: (1)

As asked for, mods for my car (1988 GTA 350, automatic, 3.27 rear) include headers (I've used both coated Edelbrock and coated SLP 1-3/4" with virtually no difference), stock short-block, stock 083 heads with 3-angle valve job and pocket ported, 1.6 roller-tip rockers, ported plenum, afpr (stock pressure works best on this car), stock cam, stock converter, Edelbrock cat-back (no cat), throttle body by-pass, Wells MAF, sewer-pipe ram-air set-up with K&N filter, Mobil 1 oil, all at full GTA weight (with spare tire) and my lard butt.

On Pep Boys Ultra-Zs (255/45-16s on back) at 24-26 psi (depending on track temp and air temp).

Practice, practice, practice.

Take notes on everything including weather, type of burn-out, which lane, coolant temps, etc. Notes are VERY important.

jms

Synapsis

Hrm, I'm going to have to try that after I fix my posi. I haven't launched from idle in a long time, maybe it's worth a try to go that route again.

92superram

I just got back from the track...pulled a 2.08 60' w/ droped tire pressure, and great weather. I didn't drop the endlink though, so I think sub 2 sec is very possible. unfortunatly I only got 1 run in.

Larry Dunlap

2.09, stock except for Ed wright chip, Goodyear GSC 245/50/zr16 tires.

91 Formula, 350 WS6

91-RS-B4C-fake?

Just had to pull this post out from the grave.
On Friday night September 29, 2006
@ KCIR (Kansas City International Raceway)
Kansas City, MO. Altitude approx. 800 ft
temperature 65.3*, barametric pressure steady @ 28.85,
and humidity of 46% I ran my best 1/4 mile ever
with my 1991 Camaro RS- B4C.

Also my best 60' time of 1.875 on street tires.

On 1 year old Goodyear Ultra HP's
245zr/50-16 in front
255zr/50-16 in rear.
stock suspension with a 140,000+ miles.

I am usually out to have fun & they usually make you drive through
the water.
So I smokem up pretty good for a second or two.
Sometimes give em an extra turn over or two,
as I move to toward the line.
I put the 700R4 in D ( Not OD)
I stab the gas hard to the floor on the 3rd yellow
& hang on. This is the result.

R/T_______ .098
60'_______ 1.875
330______ 5.594
1/8______ 8.705
MPH_____ 78.96
1000____ 11.390
1/4_____ 13.659
MPH____ 97.84

Later that night I also trapped my best top speed
although at a slower time.
13.719 sec @ 99.35 MPH

out of 5 passes my 60' s that night were:
1.882
1.888
1.898
1.875
1.885

If you've read this far please vote for my Car on
Dragtimes.com for car of the month.
1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS - B4C 1/4 mile Drag Racing timeslip specs 0-60 - DragTimes.com

For anyone who has time to waste you could also read about my
slow build up on my cardomain page.
1991 Chevrolet Camaro - Calling......'s Chevrolet

ross

1.82 on goodyear 225-70-15 on stock ta wheels 11.45 @ 123.5mph motor pass with ssm bars and koni spa1 up front. Spun the tires to knock off the dirt aired up to 28psi and apply throttle untill the tires start to cherp after I was in second gear matt it. Same combo on good tires ran 11.10 and 0s at 122 mph with 1.55 60 ft times.

87tpi

iTrader: (5)

2.1 with 265/35/18's and wheel spin. I'm sure I could get it down with some better suited tires.

BLACK92B4C

1.56 on Nittos, 1.49 on MT Drag Radials...depends on what you call street tires, but they are legal and I drive them on the street.
But sorry, that is my 4th gen LS1. 3rd gen is the same setup though, all my parts would bolt in a 3rd gen too.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

He said he didn't want any drag radial times

As for mine, 2.19 with a 215/65/15 crap tire woohoo! Stock suspension, front and rear swaybar were in, 3.42 gears with a locker and the old 305.

G-Ride14

2.076 Stock suspension and bald 245-50-16 kdw's

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

1.823, LB9, 2800 stall, 3.42's, SFC's, bone stock suspension.

c-u-later

I ran a 1.46 60ft last weekend with M/T drag radials 275 60 15s in my 84 z28. I also had 30pounds of air in them!

91-RS-B4C-fake?

These TPI cars just love the cold fall weather!
Lowered my best ET by a tenth of a second.
Back @ KCIR Friday night October 13, 2006

Kansas City, MO. Altitude approx. 800 ft
temperature 53.10*, barametric pressure steady @ 29.00,
and humidity of 26% I ran my best 1/4 mile ever
with my 1991 Camaro RS- B4C.

Also my NEW best 60' time of 1.835 on street tires.

On 1 year old Goodyear Ultra HP's
245zr/50-16 in front
255zr/50-16 in rear.
stock suspension with a 140,000+ miles.

R/T_______ .113
60'_______ 1.835
330______ 5.519
1/8______ 8.616
MPH_____ 79.30
1000____ 11.287
1/4_____ 13.555
MPH____ 99.12

Later that night I also trapped my NEW best top speed
although at a slower time.
13.632 sec @ 99.53 MPH

355gta

I pulled a 1.82 on 225/50zr16 Kumho 711 with 2.77 nine bolt. Stock TPI, just long tube, BBK afpr, Holley air foil, and 2200 stall. Look at the pic in my sig. That was the run, it was also my first 13.xx in the car.