5678TA

well as the title says... finally hit 11's and now i'll be beginning my long *** journey to the 10's.. i'm gonna try for Maui's fastest manual N/A street car.. there is only a malibu in my way that runs in the 10.7's.. and that bastard is badass.. wheelie on the 1-2 shift.. something i could do with more power..

so basically i have a list of things that i hope will get me to my goal.. here it is...

in no particular order(red means i did it, red means its never gonna happen)

1)28x11.50 Hoosier QTP's
2)Fiberglass Cowl Hood
3)Front Runners(15x6's with MT Sportsman runners)
4)raise in compression and better quench (11.3:1 with a .039" from 10.65:1 and .064" quench)
5)Electric Water Pump
6)Port And Polish the Heads(heads flow horrible,266int 179exh @.600)
7)Remove Power steering belt during runs
8)More Carb Tuning
9)possibly a bigger carb from ProSystems(950HP perhaps)
10)AL flywheel (loss of over 25lbs of rotating mass)


thats all i can think of.. updates will come if anything happens

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

that stuff won't get you to the 10s considering you're in the upper 11s right now. You might hit 11.3s maybe, but doubtful.

Trevor86TA

Thats exactly what I was going to say. A second is hard to find when you are already going that fast. It takes a lot more power than to go from a 16.0 to a 15.0. Also, a bigger tire may help you plant but might take some or all of the MPH you gained from spinning that thing higher with your new, steeper gears. Every little bit counts though.

If your goal is 10.70, by the time you get there the guy in the Malibu might be running 10.40s. Everyone always wants to go faster. You'll probably need to rethink your whole combo to go that fast though unless you're built for a big shot of nitrous.

5678TA

i see what you guys are getting at.. i know its gonna take more to get there but this will be my starting point..

what about a solid roller cam?? i have all the valvetrain for it just no bumpstick/lifters and stud girdle.. i figure a good sized solid roller would knock off a tenth or 2..

using those online calculator things and a bit of excel, i found my 1/8 to 1/4 split inline for an 11.50 pass, without exhaust.. just got no traction to help out.. tires would be the first thing i buy.. since i really hate spinning them off the line..

what do you guys think???? 27's or 28's???? i'm leanin a bit towards the 27's, since it still is 2" wider on the tread.. just not sure if i need the extra inch on the top..

heres a 11.84 run: 1.75 60ft.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/6...73009002db.htm

IROC4LIFE

1) More Tire is never a bad idea, just makesure the gears match.
2) Expensive and Doesn't do much, Your Hood is Fine.
3) Go 15X3.5 with 27-28 inch tall Spotsman Runners.
4) Unless your freshning up the motor, don't bother.
5) Pricy, You will need electric Fans and a QUALITY fan controller with good wiring, A differnt Alternator Mount, PS should be ok if its the old Vbelt style.
6) Again Unless your going to freshen the motor, don't bother, If u do want to port them, Checkout www.totalengineairflow.com.
7) I find Power Steering Boxes with No Power assist VERY SCARY to try and drive, esp if you get into the marbles, Its not worth that much power.
8) this and ignition tunning on a dyno and at the track should be your #1 priority.
9) Prosystems is awesome, but I don't think a 950 would help, maybe see if they will setup your demon for you. Again a pricy option. I would do this step if you decide to setup the motor.

I suggest

-getting on a dyno and really dialing the car in.
-Front Runners with Sportman's are a great idea.
-Tuning Tunning Tunning (not just motor but chassis also)
-Get those 60's down, Chassis tunning and More Tire.
-NX hitman plus plate with a MSD Timing Retard and Window Switch (or digital 6plus) would be wild and safe in a stick car.

Best of Luck.

IROC4LIFE

28's forsure, Stick cars love sidewall, from the vid, you can see the nose comes up and the tires start to spin, if you can get it to dead hook, should be pretty awesome.

5678TA

3)i'm going with what i listed because the 15x3.5's are not recommended for street.. this is my daily driver so cancel that..
4) & 6) i will be freshening up the motor in the winter time so those 2 will happen.. i do porting myself so no money spent there..
5) i already have an electric fan thats wired to stay on and i can fab up mounts no problem..
9)the carb is for after all the compression, porting and eventually a solid roller cam.. figure a 750 with annular boosters would only really flow 730-740.. the 950HP flows 820-830.. and they can set it up exactly for my motor..


as for everything else, its all up in the air.. nothing is final.. and i'm gonna go N/A.. no giggle juice or boost for me.. EVER..

7.0 camaro

i went to bristol dragway this week and was disapointed. i normally run1/8th mile 7.0-7.teens. and went up there and busted out a 7.55 1/8th and 11.60 @ 118mph. density altitude was 4000ft. the 3.42 gear was not helping my 1/4 mile times at all. only 5-5500 throught the traps.

IROC4LIFE

Awesome, sounds like a good plan then. The Prosystems after beefing the motor will be great. And Run those 28's.

IROC

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

About time you got in the 11's Congrats! I'm headed out this weekend to see if I can best the 11.87 run but doubt it with the heat.

5678TA

thanks IROC and EvilCartman..


i'll be going 28's then.. i might be doing a head gasket swap on a 4-runner so $1500-$2k might be headed my way.. first order of business, tires and the water pump..

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

It gets way harder to shave off tenths once you get into the 11's and faster. I think a solid roller cam and some head work would be a big step in the right direction for you. Get a full race port job on the heads you have or else get a different set of heads that are in the 215-220cc intake port range that flow 300+cfm. Bump the compression up to around 11:1 if you want to stay with pump gas or higher if you want go with race gas. After that its a matter of fine tuning and traction. All the small tuning changes and small weight reductions can add up. Check out the combo in my signature. I have the mph for 10's..... it should be there soon with some fresh tires and very solid into the 10's with a better torque converter.

5678TA

ok well i got the tires and the water pump on its way.. hopefully i get one or the other before friday so i can get it on and ready for action on friday..

jbenge, i'm gonna try get my motor to low 11's.. i figure, if i can get the heads flowing how they should i could cut a tenth or so.. and the water pump another tenth.. and i'm gonna bump the compression to around 11.3:1 for better quench and hopefully another tenth.. AND, a bigger carb since i think the annular boosters are chokin the 750.. that about another tenth.. so 3 tenths and tires to cut another tenth off the 60ft.. i should be pullin at least 11.3's with the 306S bumpstick.. and eventually 10's with a solid roller.. how does a doug herbert solid roller sound?? 251/261 @ .050", .598/.625(.637/.625 lift with 1.6/1.5 rockers) and a 106LSA..

vwdave

Stupid question, is there anyone running solid 10's NA with a 383 based engine? If I had to go hunting for 10's, I would go with a 377. But hey, whatever works for you right?

Anyways, I ran 15x4's on the street just fine. You just have to be aware they are there. No tailgating, you cannot corner fast, no jamming on the brakes, etc etc etc.

****, just got a phone call I have to goto work.....good luck on your goals there.

5678TA

well theres not too many 383's but thats what i have to work with and thats what will take me there.. this is why its a journey, not a race.. i hope to be there i 2 years since i only race in the summer due to college.. i figure, race the car during the summer, do all the major mods during winter when there are no more races.. so 2 winters to build the motor up and work on getting the roller valvetrain together and the carb.. then by summer of '09 i should be close, if not in the 10's..


and i found out that weld has 15x5's so i'll be going with those.. its what, maybe a pound or 2 heavier than the 15x4's?? i'm not that worried.. a fiberglass hood will take care of that..

5678TA

uh oh.... got my hoosiers.. turns out the runout on them is equivalent to a 28.5" tire.. i was stuck inbetween the 27 and 28.. not 28 and 29.. but whatever, i have them and i will use them.. also, i got the water pump and=
it sounds like a good deal, thats because its just an electric water pump.. they dont bother to add mounting holes for other stuff.. well races today(friday) so lets see if i can race.. oh ya, i broke a F-in T-top.. took it off to see how it was in the passenger seat and then forgot to latch it back down.. a few miles later, i hear a thunk sound and look over to see the t-top sliding down the side of the car and shatter into a million billion gazillion pieces.. got a pair off ebay for 312.. still on its way here..

z28z34man

what about a s10 manual steer box you wont have to fab up a bracket you lose a lot of weight and gain some power.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

no electric water pump has provisions for accessories. You can run a lower mount alternator setup which moves the alternator down lower in the chassis to take care of the alternator, but haven't really seen anyone run a power steering pump yet, usually it's deleted for a manual S10 box. Also, $312 for 2 t-tops is insane, I would have hit up LFN AT U off this board and he would have gotten you some much cheaper. He also posts as thirdgenranch on ebay.

z28z34man

i have power steering and a electric water pump but i have full size tires and i only want to run low 12's for now

with the narrow tires you want i think a s10 manual box would be a great addition

Trevor86TA

I have a CSR electric water pump coming today. I ordered the March accessory brackets for the PS and alternator. They were about $100 extra.

5678TA

oh, i didnt know that was the case with all e-pumps.. as for manual steering.. you must be kidding.. no offense but i love my power steering so dont try to make a case with that.. i'm making all my brackets so its not bad.. and i have all the parts and metal so its free.. i'll post pics up of my hack job.. its just to get me to the races today and tomorrow.. i'll refine the brackets later..

5678TA

11.65 @ 116mph!!!!!!!!!!!!

that was my first run out of the gate.. never went faster the whole night.. did have a 11.67 on my last run to back it up.. this is through the exhaust, in the same trim i drive the street, but with the tires on.. tomorrow is gonna be a carb tunin day so we shall see what happens.. hopin for an 11.5.. 11.4 would be nice..

on another note, i need more cooling fan.. going to the track, the temp hit 215!! didnt help that all the roads were going with the 30mph wind or had wind coming from the side..

5678TA

SpitotRs305,

i'm eventually gonna go to a doug herbert solid roller.. 251/261 duration and .598/.625 lift.. 108LSA.. i will also be porting the heads and intake manifold more thoroughly.. gonna try get flow numbers to 290+ on the high lift.. compression will be up'd to 11.3:1.. and either a 780dp or a 950HP(830cfm).. thats my future plans..

SpitotRs305

well here it is... with the 11.3CR and the DHR CC6...with mild porting... only 4-5 CFM at .600 with about 1 cfm at .100 lift... dont know if you would get the 290 you are looking for but it is good enough for 10.5... or so Ddrag says in a 3000lbs 4th gen camaro

if you can tell me your race weight and any gearchanges in the T-5 along with launch and shift RPMS i will rerun it

5678TA

i usually launch around 4k.. would like to launch at 5k but tires wont hold.. right now, i shift at 6600.. weight is around 3100-3200.. so 3150lbs would be a good guess..

hows about tryin the AFR eliminator 195 flow numbers..
.200 137 CFM 110 CFM
.300 194 CFM 158 CFM
.400 240 CFM 190 CFM
.500 270 CFM 207 CFM
.550 280 CFM 211 CFM
.600 286 CFM 215 CFM

SpitotRs305

okay here are the afrs... the peak much higher but i guess that will be obvious

5678TA

oh wow, that is a rev'r.. to be honest, i would be scared to rev up that high.. how would it be with the AFR numbers and the old solid flat cam??? i plan on raising the compression soon.. and porting will happen during the winter.. also, is there an option to use a 750 carb with annular boosters?? since thats what i'm running now.. thanks again, i cant thank you enough for your help..

5678TA

more updates........

i figured out that i am starting to twist a 31 spline axle.. and when i take left hand turns under a bit of power, it feels as if the differential is binding.. and i figured out that i need more weight over the rear tires.. with just 1/4 tank of gas, i was running 1.8-2.0 60ft's.. very bad.. with the full tank, i was 1.6-1.7.. gonna try add 100-150lbs in the trunk to weight her down and get better weight distribution.. i know its gonna slow me down but if i get more power, whats the use?? i still wont have traction.. i may also trim the rear springs a bit to get the fender gaps equal.. the rear has about an inch and a half more gap than the front.. again not good for weight distribution..

AND

i'm getting my cooling fans in tomorrow , along with some relays for the fuel pump, water pump and e-fans.. also, all my bearings and gaskets for the rebuild.. still have to order my rings and get the block and the rebuild is a GO!! hopefully the fans keep me a cool 170*.. we can only hope.. a pair of 1800cfm fans good enough? with about a 1300 cfm fan infront of the radiator.. gonna build a custom shroud and hope it works..

5678TA

ok, another..

motor got torn down by father(i'm away at college).. he said the reason for all the compression leakage was due to the MASSIVE .030+" of piston-wall clearance on the bottom of the #3 cylinder.. it tapered like a mother trucker.. normal is around .003"ish.. the rings were barely holding the compression..

also, after the cooling fans were installed, it was hard to get her over 175*.. hahaha i did 2- 1/8 mile passes on the highway and she was still at 175.. going down the highway(very slight angle, basically resting my foot on the gas to maintain speed), it stays a cool 150*.. hahaha

and lastly, got 120lbs bolted to the trunk.. she sits at a very nice 3.25" fender gap on all corners with 3.5" on the right rear.. makes me wonder that if i lighten the front, i'll have to cut the front springs.. k more updates when i get them..

car_fixer

i have a 383 n/a ran 10.67 back to back first time at the track with the engine and it was low 90's and high humidity d/a probably 4k or higher.
i would go with a solid roller (actually quiter than the hyd roller with rev kit lol) and what does the car weigh if it is lighter it will go faster. the lift im running wont do you any good but anyway those heads are going to limit you more flow would be needed realistically, not knowing actual race weight, also what do you have suspension wise?

5678TA

figured its time for an update..


motor was rebuilt at 11.1:1.. did a minor port/polish job.. felt strong with the fresh motor.. i'm thinking maybe 11.4's.. possibly lower..

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

sounds like you're in the right direction.

when are you going to run it next?

5678TA

i, myself, might not be able to run it till near july since i'm away at college and i might go to summer school.. but my father might give it a try in either feb. or march..