10secondhopeful

Hey guys, i'm considering building a 383. I'd give details but since you prolly have built one yourself you know it all. I am just looking for your set up, and your quarter mile times. thanks!

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Just watched my friends go 10.99 at 125 w/ crappy 1.67 60ft through mufflers and pump gas. 87 S-10 with t-400 and 12 bolt(4.56's).
Motor is 383, 11.1 comp. AFR 210's, Comp solid roller, 1.6 rrs, vic Jr and BG 750.
Car also put down 430 RWHP.

Mine is 383, just under 11.1 AFR 195's, Comp xe284, vic Jr. BG 750. true duals and '86 Camaro Sport Coupe. T-350 and 4.10's.
Made 375 RWHP and I will know what it runs NOV 8th. Hoping to go mid elevens if god is watching. Also pump gas and I drive it to work 2-3 times a week.

10secondhopeful

Sweet man, nice rides. You ganna add Nitrious or anything?

MaxxMitchell

iTrader: (4)

Currently running whats in my sig. My combination is no where near ideal for a N/A and Nitrous set up. I have boost in mind, just hated going so slow on motor

Before the AFR heads, I ran Vortecs, and on the same jetting im on now, and got 11.1x's @ 123 out of it, a true 150rwhp shot, and it would have seen 10's.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Definetely. The car was built to be a streetable driver and run mid elevens.
the motor is all studded forged and built for a 250 shot. The goal is to go mid to lower tens


My friend with the S-10 had the same idea but his goal was to go high tens on motor and mid 9's on spray.

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

My all forged 383 is 11:1 w/ brodix IK200 heads I ran an 11.41 @ 118 all motor but this is a nitrous built motor and Ive yet to get a full nitrous pass. I spayed a 100 shot at the end of second gear on my th400 and ran an 11.25 @ 122. I tried to run a 150 shot through a micro switch and the stupid throttle cable broke while still in first gear...

Also my car is a full interior and the such street car.

cp87GTA

My 383 in a 2840 lb race weight car goes, 1/8 mile. 6.45 @ 106.5 1.37 60 fters. Dart 200cc Iron Eagles, Comp Hydrolic roller cam, Speed Pro .240 dome hyper pistons, 5.7 rod, Hurricane intake and a modified 800 Holley. I leave at 3800 and shift it at 6800, and trap about the same. My guess in the 1/4 is 10.00 to 10.20s. All motor no juice. 100 octane turbo racing fuel.

car_fixer

well I guess i will throw in a few words here...
car is 3300 with driver, stock suspension, 28 10.5 tire
runs 10.6 or so off the bottle, 225 shot is good for 9.30's and still conservitive on the tune lol, 1.25or 6 60 foot

I wouldnt consider it streetable, but If you have e98 around, rock and roll lol

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

full interior car here when i ran my times i will list here in a second, but i now have a cage and no backseats but will have full carpet/etc. Hope to see what it will do this weekend but rain is in the forecast

my 383 is 11 to 1, with AFR 195's. Holley stealth ram running stock 89 ecm with custom MAF i made based off the stock unit. Wasnt necessary but i just wanted to see if i could get more out of it

230/245 hyd. roller cam with .603/.613 lift 109 lsa. 3600 stall auto 700r4 with 3.42 gears.

made 400whp and has run 11.47 at 118.5 with best mph of 119.1. 1.55 60 the best so far but it SHOULD go 1.4x's. Just cant get it to launch perfect yet and im on stock rear so ouch...

150 shot running rich ran 10.92 at 125 and 10.96 at 125 best two passes so far. Not spraying off the line... 1.61 and 1.65 60 foots...weaksauce but i was nervous about the nitrous and stock rear. SInce leaned it out right and it should be a true 150whp shot and i expect near 10.60's at 128 this weekend.

Very streetable car but it does have a choppy idle and is loud. very smooth tho, not jerky at all. Alittle eratic idle in gear at the lights but still needs idle fine tuned

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

I have a very street friendly car that get 20mpg. I had some problems at the track with shifting. And still managed 12.03 with a 1.59 60ft. This combo should be good for 11.7's. And that is through the stock intake and 3 inch catback, which is a huge restriction for me. My car weighs 3350 without me. Full interior and see 2000 miles a summer

10secondhopeful

Nice dude, thats a sick set up. How well is it streetable?

10secondhopeful

NICE, thats one hell of a shot of nos, what brand are you going to use? (NX, NOS, etc)
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Do you consider the 11:1 CR the best for a 383?
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Whoa man, thats a hell of a 1/8th time! whats the cam spec for the comp cam?
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What gears you running? and fuel?

10secondhopeful

Nice, i got a couple questions though. Whats your opinion on AFRs 210cc heads. Nice cam lift as well, way agressive, also like the lopey idle, i love it lol. What would you say for a different set of gears, like 3.90's or 4.10's? how would that improve your 1/8th and 1/4 mile times? How do u like the 3600 stall? Are those lift specs on you cam with a 1.5 rocker arm ratio or do u have 1.6 RR arms or anything?
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Nice, sweet 60ft time. y dn't you upgrade the intake?

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

For a 383 with aluminum heads, yes. I have a decent size hydraulic flat tappet cam (250/256 @ .050 with Approx. .550/.535 lift) to bleed off some pressure with .042" quench and I run premium pump gas with 38* timing without a single issue! Runs Great on the street may I add

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Man I thought mine was agressive for a flat tappett at 241/246 and .537 and .540 with 1.6 RR's. I run pump gas with 36* and I thought it was excessive as well.

10secondhopeful

okay sweet, whats your opinion on a 10.3:1 CR with AFR 210cc heads?
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check out Orr89RocZ's cam lift lol, now THATs agressive haha

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

I have 1.6 rr's too The lift numbers are corrected. But to be honest the cam is VERY streetable. I did have my brodix IK200's 'gone over' by heads up here in the dayton ohio area. he did a little bit of massaging and fixed a couple factory flaws for me. Mainly smoothed out the runners and minimal bowl work. I have about $1,200 into these heads but he said they will outflow any 200cc I could buy off the shelf. Which I do believe because Dave lair is a VERY reputable head guy around here.

gtpro700

Possibly outflow MOST heads but what about AFR 195cc eliminator competition series heads? they flow about 300cfm!!! off the shelf and even the street version flow around 285 cfm.

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

Well, I have a friend with the AFR's....I think I out run him by quite a bit.....BUT these are IK200's worked over by somebody. So they are not off the shelf heads anymore.

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

I am upgrading the intake this winter to a 3.5 CAI. It may take awhile to adjust the MAF tables.

cp87GTA

[Whoa man, thats a hell of a 1/8th time! whats the cam spec for the comp cam?]

The cam I'm running is not streetable, at least I wouldn't run it on the street. Advertised duration is 314*. It's has a real radical idle, and don't smooth out till 3500 or so. I had it in my 1st 383 with flat tops for almost 6 seasons before the crank broke. It was only about .4 slower in that engine. Most guys I tell I have a hydrolic roller thinks I'm fibbing.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

1.6 rockers. 3600 stall is awesome for a street/strip car. Its a good bit of stall but the way its setup its very driveable. going up hills at slow speeds kinda sucks since the rpms go up and teh car being loud it gets annoying, but with ecm control, i can lock it up at w/e mph i want. As long as i am doing over 32mph right now it will lock and drive like stock. I may try to lower that to help out my slow up hilll driving

3.90's would be perfect for this car n/a but too much for spray with my tire size (26"). I have done 11.47 on motor so far with a 1.55 60. But this was in July/august mid 70's heat..possibly more. I will or should have new times this weekend. I expect this car to go quicker for 2 reasons. 1 is i havent been able to go 100% full launch. I've tried and i spun alittle everytime. Suspension may be off too, as i think its unloading alittle.
I THINK it will do 11.3x at 119-120 as it sits with perfect launch that i havent been able to get with the 3.42 gears.
2 is that the tranny shifts SLOW haha.

3.90's on motor should do 11.2's or so with a mid high 1.4 60 foot and i'd be VERY happy with that. This is what i THINK it will do, i cant be for sure. With cold winter air, it damn well may be very close to 11.0's but i dont wanna state that since thats pretty optimistic.

Next year i hope to crack 9.99 on spray. Bigger cam, some weight reduction, abit more spray maybe in the cold air with more gear it should do it i HOPE All the while being very streetable


AFR 195 eliminators have made 550 crank hp on 383's with 11 to 1 if you build everything right. the 210's should support more rpm and more hp but I'd stick with the 195's for more street motor. Either head should get it done tho.

Yes you will have some fun with that Mine needed MASSIVE amounts of scaling to get right again and a good bit of tweaking in table 1 and 2 to get idle/mild part throttle stuff to work right.

I think i have table 3 hitting near 255 limit when it usually hits in table 5. there is a HUGE difference of flow from stock MAF to 3.5"

Hit me up if you need some help or want to try my tables

5678TA

uh mine is alright.. pretty much in line with everybody else..

385
11:1
brodix racerite 200's w/ polish job (really minor)
comp 306S (solid flat tappet, .592/.555, 260/260, 110 LSA)
portmatched vic jr.
mighty demon 750 w/ annular boosters
2.5" true duals (worth 2-3mph)
t-5
4.30
28.5" tire
leaving on 6k dump
shifting 6700
trap at 5900-6000

running at about 13.2:1 AFR, went a best of 11.65 @ 116 backed by an 11.67 @ 116 all on 1.69 60ft's, spinning a bit.. should have 11.50's in it after a good tune.. tuned it for max gas mileage at 14.6:1 AFR and went 12.0's @ 113...

gonna do a better tune, 3" true dual with x-pipe and dynomax ultraflows, 4.56 and spool next summer.. hoping for at least 11.20's.. oh and i'll be running on 89 octane!!!

then eventually 210 eliminators, a decent sized solid roller (255/260ish, .600/.600ish), super victor, and 950HP.. that i'm hoping for 10.60-10.70's..

DeepSleepWheely

Woah, that is one awesome 60' time, how did you manage to get such a jump from the previous times? and how do you know that your tire was 8 in. off the ground?

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

Welcome to the boards deepsleepwheely. What year 3rd gen do you have

DeepSleepWheely

I got an '86

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

Should I ad my 11.41 383 is through full exhaust?....Also,I ran 11.55's on my 3.45's on motor. The 4.10's only brought me to an 11.41. After you go down so far it takes a lot just to go a bit faster. Maybe I have more in my car on the 4.10's but I doubt it has all that much left....

johnfwz28

well, i have a 383 stroked car, but i've only had it at the track once. we (my son & i) are really quite new to drag racing(having a track car) we've watched plenty of times but actually going down the track, once. now we really didn't know what we were doing. we had way too much air in the tires,(didn't hook well, just spun alot) i didn't drive, he did. it was his very first time on the track. i forget what the 60 ft time was, but the other guys said it wasn't bad for a first timer. i do remember that he ran a 7.4 on the first pass and a 7.6 on the second.(8th mile of course) mph was about 96 and 97. that was on the motor

gtpro700

ol'blue your heads flow 261 @.600 and afr eliminators flow 286 @ .600 i doubt you would pick that much cfm off of light head work like you said you had done. Also off the shelf you can get there competition set up and flow 300+ cfm which you are definitly not goign to make 50 cfm gain. And this article will sum up AFR's awesomeness:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...des/index.html

a 383 with afr 195 eliminator STREET not competition package made 615 hp!!

IHI

iTrader: (1)

My old 388:
stock 350 block, stock 400 crank, stock R&R 5.7 rods, KB 12.5:1 hyperutectic slugs, stock damper, SFI flexplate, stock oil pan
Bullet solid roller, 106LSA, .621/.621, 261/266 @ .050..these are true numbers not advertised
AFR 210 as cast heads with Comp Pro Mag 1.5 rockers
Vic jr. intake
2" open carb spacer
950HP carb out of box
1 3/4" hooker super comp headers
dual 3" exhaust with flowmaster 40 series on each pipe dumping before rear diff
TH400 with at that time 4600 stall
4.11 gear with a 28" back tire

car is same as it is now weight wise, full interior/800W stereo system, ran pump gas (91 octane)i, was able to keep my power brakes with the aid of a booster canister
consistant 11.00 @118-120mph depending on air, ran a best of 10.99.
EXTREMELY streetable, listening to it the car sounded nice, but not nasty, no tell tale rumpidy rumpidy, but it honest to god drove as docile on the street as my work trucks do, everybody that got to ride/drive in it could'nt believe how tame it was for what it was running.

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

Eh, I take factory quoted flow numbers like a grain of salt. They are typically BS. I like track numbers. they don't lie like dyno numbers or manufacturers flow numbers.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

The new AFR heads are proven to be correct on the flow numbers. A number of us have done independant flow tests to confirm this. In fact if anything they are very slightly conservative. As of now they are the best "out of the box" head.

gtpro700

Is factory number 615 hp on a 383 with a little 195cc runner????? Also if you had read that article they test them thereselves and numbers are very close. AFR are awesome bottom line

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

I believe the number on the IK200's being low. Have you ever seen the port entry where they go from CNC'd to the casting? It was a huge 'step' I bet these flow darn close now...

I agree AFR's are some nice heads. CNC'd ports all the way. But for the money they better be. Dollar for dollar they don't interest me.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Same here, when i bought my 210's i immediately took them to the local head guru, told him what they were supposed to do cfm wise, he felt around and gave me a look that said, yeah right.

Went to pick them after he checked them all out, and on his flow bench, there was only 1-3cfm difference on any given point of lift over what AFR advertised, and he even said he was very impressed.

I will NEVER own a set of Dart's, i went through this guys catalog of all the heads he's documented on his bench, honest to god, vortec heads were flowing as much as the dart 230 pro 1 heads.....then he shoed me what the darts could do after a $1200 port job, and then they shined, but who the heck pays that kind of money for new heads, sticks another $1200 into them to get the same numbers AFR is flowing out of the box.

I wanted AFR's 227's for this 427 sbc, but did'nt want to buy another set of slugs due to the 60/40 valve spacing, so i went with the brodix KC T1 227 100% cnc'd heads since they advertised flow numbers on par with AFR's 227's but used standard 23* valvetrain components. These actually flowed very close to advertised as well, but Brodix sends ALL their 100% cnc'd speced heads to an outside shop to have done, hence the leadtime when ordering them. But i was pretty happy with them, still wish i coulda bolted some AFR's on though.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

" darts could do after a $1200 port job"

The head porters like the Dart Pro One series of heads because they do respond to porting. However out of the box the AFR's are the best.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

The only folks that like Dart are the dealers LOL!! Why would you buy a set of heads (using the pro 1 230's as the example since they're the most common) for $1700 plus shipping, and have an out of box head that is only equal to a set of 062 vortecs? Then spend another $1000 to have them ported to get them into the same spec as AFR 210's are out of box, AS CAST, not even the cnc or race prep head, the AS CAST. Makes no sense other than the typical "herd mentality" car guys get into even when it makes no sense at all. Dart is the most over rated head on the market IMO, but soo many guys run them it's hard to sift through the BS and get real life facts since they all want to argue for their product in/on their car, but the facts are, just about any other brand is better for less. Most everything we buy for our cars is severly over marketed, over rated, over hyped, so it's just a matter of really digging in deep, talking to guys on all sides of the coin to make the best descion for you, but it's alot cooler running more with less

cp87GTA

Darts as cast, do need some work to be a race head. But the castings are pretty good. My buddy has a set of 215 Darts that flow over 300 cfm @ .700 lift. When he had his 406 built last season the builder advised him to go with AFR 210 eliminators. They only flow a tad more than the Darts but have a smaller port, but have a much lighter valve train. This builder uses a realitivly small cam on the duration side with a lots of lift. He is trying to talk me out of running the cam I had in my 406, ain't going to happen. His engines do make some good HP. Why does everyone want a set of heads that flow over 300 cfm, on a car that's driven on the street? You can't run a camshaft that needs those kind of numbers, plus after 6 months of street driving they won't flow that anymore anyways. Big waste of money is my 02. If your cam only has .560 lift why worry about what they flow at .700. My 406 was only about .4 slower than my buddys car and it's 200 lbs heavier on the 2nd pass. Unfortunatly it spun the main bearings and didn't live too long. But it's going back together now. My elcheapo 383 runs within .4 of his car too. And the engine didn't cost 1/3 of his.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

Results in the sig.

car_fixer

most small block cams will never see .700 lift, or even .800 that some rate their heads at, and more importantly, the bores they test with do skew the numbers also, and so does the extension tubes some test with. Its all advertiseing. big ports and flow numbers on even 383's can hurt power on the rpm range thats actually used. I am not taking sides on the dart thing but, for most people bolting something together they wouldnt notice a difference between this and that...chances are they bolt it on and it runs how it does.
The funny part is, im running .698/.701 lift and @320 adv. duration, but no one part of this engine makes it fast (or slow lol) its all how it works together , and the car does its job too under 5 seconds in an 1/8th is fun, low 5's are pretty wild (using a different gear for 1/8th I run under 5.40)

Ol'Blue

iTrader: (1)

I'll stick with my IK200's which I have $1200 into....seriously look at my results. I don't see much advantage

IHI

iTrader: (1)

My junk aint the fastest, i did'nt build it to be fast, I built it to win money and last, which is does more often than not. But i tell ya, being able to jump in, turn on the stereo, drive to Fly'n J to fill up, cruise around town, take a little road trip, then show up and spot somce of these gutted race cars and trailer'um is a good feelin So picking a good combination is'nt all about huge this or that, but shopping and finding the best bang for your buck is, then most importantly matching up a good convertor, gear, tire size....and these are the area's i think alot of guys miss the combo's, convertors they buy are'nt working effiecently, gearng is wrong. so you could have a 700hp motor that runs like crap while you get beat by the next guy with 500hp and a great working combination of drivetran components.

I did'nt highlight/quote ya to start a flame war, you just brought up some very good points i wanted to add my $0.02 too.

cp87GTA

My intent was to tell guys that you DON"T need a set of heads that flow big numbers for a street driven 383. Why spend 2000.00 + for a set of heads when the engine most likely will run just as good with a set of Pro Comps or what ever. Too big of a head can hurt an engine too. I bought a set of AFR race heads back in 1971 and bolted them on a 350 HP 350. The car slowed down. That is my point. I don't make posts to flame any one, just try to help guys make the right decisions. I'm not stuck on Comp Cams or Dart heads, I've used them both with very good results. I've also used cams from Isky, Luniti, Crane, Sig Erson, and my currant combo is Bullet. I even have an old school Blue racer in my sons 406 Pontiac engined 96 Bird. He is ashamed of it cause it don't sound wicked, but it runs low 7.teens shifting @ 5200 and trapping 5800, it 60s 1.52.

JohnZ28

After reading all the posts I am glad to see I'm getting similar results with my 383 combo. My first trip to the track this summer the car ran the best of 11.58 at 118mph with a 1.65 in the 60ft. Next summer I'll tune some more and I'm sure it will run deeper into the 11's and then spray it with a 250 shot for low 10's.

10secondhopeful what other parts have you put on your car? Suspension? Drivetrain?

There is a long list of components that you need for the track to run good numbers too. The 383 is just one of them.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

AFR heads (195's) are only 1450. Most other heads in same class are 1200-1400. Extra few bucks there gets you good valvetrain stuff, lightweight 8mm stuff and stiff springs. For those building any powerful motor designed to go over 6000 rpms, AFR's have a great advantage.

I make 400whp with just 230 degree hyd. roller cam. Throw a little bigger cam in there and it could see 430. Thats a pretty good head

10secondhopeful

Oh thats awesome how you can just lock it up like that. its gatta help alot. nice, everything i hear about 383's is good so far lol, i'm definatly ganna build one this winter. heck ya man, aim for that 9 second club, its what i'm ganna do. okay, stay with the 195 cc for a steet car, which is what its ganna be, though i want it to run all day at the strips

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I just went 10.63 at 127 9's is a GOOD ways off

camaroal9668

When it was in our 91 Camaro it went 10.38@128 with a 1.36 60'
Now it is in my 73 Nova it has been 10.52@127 with a 1.40 60', but I will be @ E-Town in two weeks to improve that.

All Motor
383 2 Bolt Main
Eagle Crank
Isky cam and lifters
Keith Black Pistons
Bowtie aluminum heads
Edelbrock Intake
AED 950 Carb

10secondhopeful

Hell ya, just imagining the g-forces from that 10.63 second QM makes me smile, i can't wait till i get there.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

On a budget 383 i had:

9.7 to 1 hyper speed pros
stock rods with ARP
2 bolt 1 piece block with ARP bolts
cast scat 3.75 crank
"turbo" casting heads ported, over the counter from GM in 1970
RPM air gap intake w/1 inch open spacer
750 vac sec
comp XE288HR .560/.540 lfit 236/242 @.050 110 LSA
Headman full lengths, custom Y straight pipe all the way out the back

At the 1/8th mile with a hoe 2.73 rear gear i went 8.4x at olmost 90 MPH. My buddy with a better setup and 3.73 gears in a 92 Z went 90 mph but at 7.4 seconds and was 11.87 in the 1/4.