Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Crossing over to the dark side
Your not doing what you said unless you got pics well here they go
Got time today to tear down engine for inspection

Craigslist guy said there was a upper knock
Hmmmm I wonder what that might be
Found a needle bearing about 2 or 3 chilling


But wait there's more
Like my new chop stick

Tried to get good pic of cylinder wall didn't come out good
Still see crosshatch

But there is more
Looks like valentines day and someone got luck with a kiss
Check valves but didn't see damage to the bottom of any


So final thoughts

Looks like they bent a pushrod looks like they tried to save money and just replace one push rod as this was the only clean one
I didn't keep track of where I took them out but I think it's safe a
To assume that valve kiss piston bent rod maybe idk
Another piston had fluid in it I'm not sure from disassembly smell like fuel but could be water hard to tell used a napkin and wife said it smell like gas
Could be gasket ? During disassembly or when engine was on its side idk

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Oh yes being built in my apt room

Nick88T5iroc

Haha nice. Engine looks good. Are you replacing that piston?

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

hmm i dont know i have to look at it again doesnt look that bad from intial break down

and there is no crazy damage to valve

i only have about couple months left here in the states.. due to the fact i have pick orders to go overseas hopfully..and just want to get camaro up and running for the time being and reliable

which would give me time to save for a trustworthy machine work etc. maybe a 383 stroker since im going to be gone for couple years .. i rather do it right the first time then get hasty

i might take to the machine shop to check out cylinder walls to see if i can just hone and re ring nothing to crazy idk

we will see

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You might want to pull that exhaust valve and check to see if it is slightly bent. Your wife must really love you for not having a fit with a engine in your room lol.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

was thinking before going to sleep ... What would cause pushrod damage ? i would assume that piston and valve would be alot more damage and that there no damage to camshaft or lifter which leaves me scratching my head
and that there was 3 needle bearings in the cylinder head which i assume from a rocker

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

lol she loves me alot

she gets more mad when my hands all greasy and oily inside the house and not taking of my sneakers at the door

i plan to have heads rebuilt and also ungrade to double spring for sure

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Looks like the needles came out of the exhaust rocker causing more lift and thats when the valve gave the piston a kiss of death. Your going to go bald with all your head scratching

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

thats what i was thinking ..
you think piston is still usable ?
its not that deep into piston

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I would pull it and take a real close look at it for cracks. If it looks good lightly sand off the high spots. With the spring off that valve you can also move it up and down in the guide if the guide and valve stem are clean it wont snag it will have little drag. I would suspect it is slightly bent though.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

yea thats on the to do list

i dont think its crack tho it was light kiss but let me knock on wood lol

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

A little more progress cleaning up pistons


Didn't get chance to pull balancer or flexplate need to buy breaker bar and 24mm socket
Calling it a night lol

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

you just lowered your compression. lol

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

just a tad

got a quick question been reading and searching about rod bolts from arp ... havent found straight answer
can i just replace oem rod bolts with ARP or Katech ...
is it as simple as taking oem ones off then torquing new ones on with out removing rod cap ?

or theres machining involved

rickyzZ28

iTrader: (4)

I bought Katech bolts for my build and did not resize. I have heard that the ARPs need resizing, but don't quote me on that. I took my old bolts out, pulled out the ferrell, then lubed the new bolts and torqued them to spec. I did one at a time and followed the torque sequence and spec very closely. Mine has been good so far with many runs to 6800. I doubt it will last forever like this, but for me they were cheap insurance until I build something bigger.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

i dont plan to rev that high 6500 tops maybe
ive been reading the same IIRC ARP has 2 different bolts one you need to resize the other you may or may not need too and Katech ive heard good things

i just want extra insurance..

the posibility of going overseas is putting a hold on a all out rebuild at this point so decided to just go ahead and get engine up and running

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Camshaft removed

Top of cam bearing feels kinda of rough compared to bottom it's not rough enough to catch fingernail kinda looks like a film of some sort that's used for cambearings idk if factory had a coating

What's your opinion

Bottom cam bearing

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Camshaft


Closer pic

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Lifters

Some have lines you can see like cam shaft but doesn't catch a nail feels smooth

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Is this normal wear ?
There's no copper color bearing look grey still was searching and seen copper color discoloration like on really worn cam bearings but pics on ls1tech where on 60k engine and cam bearing look like pic below ? So I'm confused cause my engine has 100k + miles
For cam bearing lifters and cam stock oem
I'm swapping to upgraded cam kit from tsp or AI unsure tho

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

That's the nice thing about OHV engines compared to overhead cams. Pushrods are the weak link. Its fairly common to get away with an incident like you have there without bending the valve (although I'd still definitely pull that one and check it by rolling it on a piece of glass).

My bet is that engine was massively over-revved, but the bad rockers could be a cause of the interference too, instead of a result..

I didn't even get to build my engine in the house, even though no women even live here! I'm jealous lol.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

that real silver color on the cam bearing is the very top layer, the duller color is from wear.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I'm getting a cam kit with harden pushrods trunion kit etc. was already on things to get
I'm not bothering checking others one is to many
But was expecting some issues with valve train with upper knock so no surprises here
But I agree prob over revved

So copper color bad and mines are relatively in pretty good shape ?

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...ot-copper.html

Here link to better pic exactly what I see and feel 2nd pic down
From what I've read it's nothing big

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

My Final Thoughts ...

Cold oil, Hard Pulls, and Over Revving is the best Diagnoses of Engine from what I've seen

Overall pretty decent engine have seen a lot worse

Now time to order parts !

rickyzZ28

iTrader: (4)

My cam bearings looked like that also. I replaced them before I did research and found out that the wear was pretty normal. I probably would have replaced them anyway just for a piece of mind.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I agree with you
but I'm not going to bother right now as trying to get back up and running for now and do complete rebuild of block later instead of making hasty decisions want to find a good machine shop etc so I'm going to be patience
As I only have about 8 months or less and going overseas hopefully get to find out end of week or next contemplating also if I want to ship the Camaro instead of buying car out there

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

Gonna be a nice build keep us updated

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yea hopefully but I won't consider it a nice build at the moment far from it

when I really rebuild and have a good timeframe to do it might just be nice build lol

Wasn't you selling a ls1 block you emailed me not to long ago lol

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

any ls in thirdgen is a nice build lol...
yup sold it

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

How are you going to get it out of there?? Short block than final assembly when its in the car??

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

i drained oil out before putting in apt. my doors are wide enough for engine to fit thru

well i have a cool hydralic table with wheels that lowers to the ground and raises up like 3-4 feet i did the disassbly on that i recommend it useful for alot of things and very very sturdy

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ble-94822.html

i used table to get engine off truck pretty simple then i strap it to down on table

i got a engine stand on craigslist for cheap so i will do final assembly on that im not breaking down rotating assembly so final assembly should be easy will do that in the room

then roll it back out to the car im pretty lucky i live on 1st floor by parking lot no stairs

on base here theres a auto hobby shop on navy base i can rent all month for 100 bucks thinking of just taking camaro engine trans and swap over there all tools are free and i can leave car there too not a bad deal

i will complete all wiring and engine trans stuff so when i take it there i can just swap engine and go lol

i did a whole t56 swap by myself in the parking lot benchpressing the hell out of it ive done alot of backyard streetmechanic lol should of rented the apartment with garage but there hard to find in downtown area lol

now that i think of it ive never went to school for mechanics been working on different cars since i was in middle school funny thing is never once was in a nice garage i dont even have a nice tool box there all oily dirty and trown in to a plastic box lol and im 27 now turning 28 in july ugh

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

not my first engine build but my first lsx build well i wont consider it a build more of a freshing up i guess so my cherry is now pop for better lack of words

a real build will come in future


im comtemplating on gettinh a shift kit
for 4l60E i now its same trans as 700r4 with couple internal diffrences
so is shiftkit pretty much the same as any 700r4
comtemplating

My 4l60E was fresly rebuilt with only 5000 miles on it

trans upgrade
http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/produ...&cat=62&page=1
VS
just shift kit
http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/produ...&cat=64&page=1

will be getting a 2800 stall converter

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Sorry for crappy pics haven't had any issues but have one question
I have dual fans so I had 1 fuel pump and 2 fan relays
While removing harness found another relay

I'm color blind so bare with me lol

This relay was connected to c207


But one wire from relay from relay was connected


Too this


Any ideas on what this relay could be to there's technically suppose to be 3 relays depending fan option ? Or 2 for singe fan ?Or I'm missing sum thing

Also is it normal for 90-92 c100 wiring to vary
All wiring is good except

B7 which is a Orn wire
G7 which could be lt blue forgot to take pic and its cold out lol long day
I look thru all wiring diagram but most say it not suppose to be in use
So I'm scratching my head


On my c207 there's no d1,2,3 so that might explain b7

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

MAF or SD car? MAF cars have a burnoff relay up there too

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

MAP
It's 90 Iroc Z

I never notice the relay till now it was tuck away

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

To answer some earlier questions:

You can't resize LS1 rods. They are cracked cap, meaning the rod is literally broken in half to create the cap. The rough fracture surface keeps the two halves stable when bolted back together. However, the first thing you do when resizing a rod is grind down the surface of the cap, which you can't do with fractured caps. I put ARP rod bolts in my LS1, doing one bolt at a time, and have subjected it to regular abuse at the track with no issues. Rev limiter is set at 7000 RPMs, which it has hit on more than one occasion. Did change the valve springs to LS6 yellows, though.

As for valves kissing pistons: I was told my LS1 dropout "ran". I had 317 heads I had shaved down to LS1 chamber size (and installed the yellow valve springs) that I planned on installing anyway, so when I pulled the 853 heads, I found 3 pistons had been kissed by valves. One pushrod looked like yours. The lifter under that pushrod had wiped out the lifter guide, and the plunger retainer left the building (never did find it). The pushrods for the other 2 pistons that had been kissed looked fine (rolled them on a piece of glass, no bends). Didn't see any issues with the rockers. I pulled the pan, but not the pistons. I ran it for about 8 months when a knock developed. I bought another longblock (which is the one that got the ARP rod bolts), put an LS6 cam in it, got it ready to install then pulled the engine from the car. Turns out the knock was loose torque converter ring bolts (the converter manufacturer forgot the Loctite on the bolts). I went ahead and put in the other shortblock with the 317 heads, but the kissed pistons probably were in no danger.

Of course, it would be best to replace the pistons, but probably not necessary. The valves should be checked carefully as previously noted.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Intresting

so you just drop in ARPs one at a time ie. unbolt one while other is still torque down and torque down arp then do other bolt one by one ?

ive heard good and bad stories

kinda of same senario ,as for me guy said it ran but had upper knock , low compression test in one cylinder ,makes me glade i took the time to break down engine for inspection... seen kiss piston put liquid into chamber of all heads combustion chamber. no leaks except for intake valve where valve kiss piston, taking heads to get valve job and replace that one intake valve, going to sand high spots on piston, running beehive spirngs maybe double springs we will see, harden pushrods, trunion kit, cam im looking at is around 228ish/234ish around .600/.600 lift changing cam bearings out also , dont have exact specs, but should put out around 380-400ish hp hopfully , going to be running a tune, no cat 3in Intermediate

im replacing all seals and gaskets too

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You don't have to do it that way, but if you aren't pulling the pistons, that's the easiest way. The rod bolts will come with instructions for lube, torque procedure, etc.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

yes im not pulling pistons and i know you torque according to bolt company specs and only use oem torque specs if using oem rod bolts

bolting one bolt at a time seemed easiest to me and also keeps rod ends aligined ..but some times easiest is necessarily the right way ..

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Update: L98 is out awaiting ome order parts

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

anybody knows if gutted iroc airbox with k&N airfilters can feed a ls1 i had cfm flow data laying around some where but cant find it ?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The tube to the MAF is too small.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Thanks.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

another update

Scored great deal on some Heads nothing crazy tho aftermarket was going to rebuild my 853s but for the price i got something alittle better
little 243s bowl blend, PRC Double Springs, Valve Job

still deciding on cam


pics will come when i recieve parts

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

Nice! gonna make good power now with those 243

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

just a little

SiCkRs

iTrader: (6)

what cam you gonna run?

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

228/236 110+4 on XER Lobes

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Update some pics of Parts are flowing in with a couple of side projects treats









She has been sleeping way to long "Hybernating" But when she wake up she will be hungry lol