manuel

I have this long block in the garage. I looked at the casting numbers and all I get is:
350 cid
2 or 4 bolt main
87-95(altough I got it from a '92 Chevy Truck)
Roller or flat tappet cam
One peiece rear seal.


That's it! so many options!!!I can't tell if it is a 2 or 4 bolt main. Roller or flat tappet cam.

can anybody help?

manuel

please anybody?I have asked three times already.

IROCZ89

This could be a good excuse to have fun. Take it apart and find out what is in it. Then Buld it the way you want it.

Phil



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89 IROC 5.0 TBI
Soon to be a 5.0 TPI, with a disk rear.

manuel

hurray!!!My #66 post!!!

how can I tell from a rollar or flat tappet cam? Which one is better?

RB83L69

Take the intake and oil pan off, and hold it up a little closer to the monitor. Then we'll be able to tell.

The factory takes blocks of that casting number, all of which have the cast-in provisions for their bizarre roller setup; finishes the machining on some and installs roller cams in them, doesn't finish the machining on others and puts flat tappet cams in those. Likewise, some they machine for 2-bolt caps, some for 4-bolt ones. The only way to tell is to open it up and look.

Just at a guess, being from a truck, I'd expect a very high probability of it being a flat tappet, and a better than 50% chance it's 4-bolt. But that's just a guess.

You can tell if it's a roller cam or not by looking at the lifters. If they have rollers, then they're rollers; if they're flat, then they're (get ready for this) flat. The factory's roller hallucination involves a big sheet metal retainer thing that bolts in all over the lifter valley that the lifters go through to hold them in the correct orientation. If it doesn't have that, then it's not a factory roller system.

Roller is better. That system allows for much more aggressive cam profiles (= more power) without sacrificing valve train reliability, emissions, gas mileage, or driveability. Oddly enough, since it looks almost like the factory "designed" their twisted caricature of a roller system from a white sheet of paper (like a college student project or something) without any reference to the far simpler roller systems that the rest of us have been using for decades, they missed out on any of that. There is one other benefit of a roller system, which is reduced internal friction; at least they managed to capture most of that one, although an aftermarket system as employed for all these years by the rest of us is still better at that too.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited August 14, 2001).]

94-6spd

Try this site. http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

It may or may not help. I don't know.

AJ_92RS

Really the only way to tell, as said already, is to dismantel it. I have the same block in my garage that was in a 3/4 ton GMC. Even though is was a truck motor and had flat tappets in it, it still has the spots for the spider grid drilled and tapped. I guess the general wasn't sure about if he wanted to use a roller or not. And since it was in a 3/4 ton, I guess he though it was necessary for it to be a 4 bolt. Hurray for me.

About the only sure thing that Mortec says about my engine is that it's a 1pc. rear main and the years it was produced.

Grab a wrench and go to town!!!

AJ

manuel

I have tried to take the intake...Too hard.
The Bolts are really tough to get out.

tried the heads bolts and failed.
I have had friends try,that are stronger,and broke the wrench.

Oh what to do,oh what to do?
There is water in the intake!!!!
Yes,water!!I shake the block and water splashes. I have taken the oil out and it had some water.

Do yall think the block is gone for good?

RB83L69

You're going to have to tear it down. No one else can tell you what's inside that block without looking at it, and I doubt anyone on this BBS is going to go to wherever that blcok is, tear it down for you, and tell you what you could find out for yourself with a little effort.

Just because it has water in it does not necessarily mean that it's no good. You need to at least get the intake and the oil pan off of it, to check its condition; when you do that, your other questions will answer themselves.

Get some better tools and some determination.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

manuel

Thanks alot,RB83L69.

what tools do yall recommend to take the engine apart?

FYI:I have no air impact wrench.Just hand tools.

RB83L69

First clear away any small stuff like brackets, etc. that might be in the way. Pull the distributor.

For the intake, you can get most of the bolts with a 9/16 - 5/8 box end wrench. That's the longest usual 9/16" setup. Some of them you can get to with a 1/2" ratchet and a 9/16" 6-point socket, and maybe a short extension. But you'll probably need the wrench for at least a couple of the center ones.

For the heads you'll need a long breaker bar, like a 24" one, and a 5/8" deep-well 6-point socket, to break them loose; and then spin them out with a ratchet and 5/8", either deep-well or with a short or medium extension.

Craftsman tools, though not what I prefer, are adequate for the occasional user. Anything better (Snap-On or whatever) would be great but not really necessary. Stay away from the Made in China or India or Malaysia type of stuff. Tools should not be bought from the low bidder. If money is a significant issue, check the pawn shops.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports