I have tried everything ...All components in my distributor is brand new even the freakin wire harness. So the my mechanic and i said lets take off the distributor and he told me to bump the car not start it but bump it and he said it was the oil pump causing something not to turn...Bottom line im lost any info would be appreciated. This guy has never failed me he has always been right on the money so i do trust him, but oil pump?

 

Can't imagine how an oil pump could cause a lack of spark. There is a gear on the back of the cam that drives a gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft. When the cam turns, the distributor turns and creates a spark when it is time to do so (assuming you have your base timing set right).

The oil pump is driven straight off the bottom of the distributor shaft via a short ~4" intermediate shaft (oil pump drive shaft). So, if the distributor is turning, it turns the oil pump drive shaft which turns the oil pump. Even if the oil pump was taken off the engine or the oil pump drive shaft was completely removed you would STILL have a functioning distibutor turning in time with the rest of the engine (you just wouldn't have any oil pressure!).

 

I had a 1977 Chevy Monza Mirage with a factory 305 V-8 and it had an oil pressure switch that wouls not let the car run with no oil pressure but I don't know if the Camaro has it.

 

you should probably find a new mechanic.. that diagnosis doesn't make any sense.. what have you checked so far (what do you consider "everything")? What was this test suppose to accomplish? Also how about some info to start, like what year, engine, induction, etc.
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3rd gens have no such switch, they do infact have an oil pressure switch that will run the fuel pump but it is mearly a backup for the fuel pump relay and requires very little oil pressure to work.

 

New mechanic, or a better answer from him.

How about you start at the beginning and tell us what the problem is and what you checked thus far.

 

This is how it happened. I came home from the gym one night and parked the car. Woke up the next morning and it wouldnt start at all. My 1st thought was the fuel pump so i checked to make sure i was getting fuel. Had wife pressed the accelerator fuel shot out. Then i checked for spark, removed number 1 spark plug grounded it and no spark whats so ever coming from the distributor. So i changed all my plugs out....still no spark. so i inspected the wires everything was ok and decided hmmm let me take off the distributor cap. Sure enough distributor and rotor button was burned.So why i had it off i took the ignition mod to advance to test it they said it was fine. I replaced anyway along with distributor cap, rotor button, and ignition coil. Still no spark. Thats when i then called mechanic and also did some research and most people were saying pick up coil. Replaced that along with the esc.

Still no start. So i decided to try this again and i said hey....maybe the wiring? So i replace the ignition module wiring harness....still no spark..I casically start playing the guessing game and replacing almost everything in site. When the mechanic came he was running tests and the igniion coil and almost everything else.

He said try replacing the esc......Still no spark. So yesterday he took the distributor off and told me to bump it a few times while he looked down the distributor hole... thats when he came to the conclusion of the oil pump....he said something down there wasnt turning....something about a crankshaft or something.

 

Did he maybe say that the camshaft was not turning? If that's so, time for a new timing chain at the minimum.

 

That would make more sense than the oil pump but still, timing chains normally don't break after you park the car over night..

 

This is TGO, how many 'normal' things have you seen here turn out not-so-normal?

 

Right: I've actually had one that did that. I'm sure it didn't break while it was sitting there, but rather, when the key got turned inthe morning.

The crank drives the timing chain. The chain drives the cam. The cam has a gear on it that drives the distributor. The distributor has what looks like a big screwdriver on it, that drives the pump.

Clearly it's impossible for the oil pump to create a no-spark; and equally clearly, if the dist is out, the oil pump won't turn.

With the dist installed, you can just take the cap off, and watch it while somebody spins the motor with the starter. That'll tell you right away if it's turning. If it's not, the most likely cause, is the timing set. Not the chain itself actually; but more likely, the cam sprocket. If it's the factory one, it's made of chinesium with phenolic plastic teeth. The way they fail, is the plastic teeth turn to dust and fall off of the chinesium gums on the sprocket.

Look at your timing cover, down at the bottom, between the crank damper and the oil pan, just to the pass side of the center. If you see a punched-out looking place there that's about 1" wide and doesn't look factory, then that's where the chain has been rubbing on it from the inside; and that scenario above is probably your problem. You'll need a new timing set, and of course, another cover; because that one may already have a huge oil leak from being worn through.