anyone tried BBS 650hp single turbo kit?
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: th350 w/ b&m shift kit
anyone tried BBS 650hp single turbo kit?
anyone tried this? if so, what are your thoughts about it ? easy to install? worth the money? gonna destroy my stock L98?
any thoughts, anybody?
any thoughts, anybody?
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: th350 w/ b&m shift kit
let me say, i'm impressed with their customer service. i called earlier this morning and got nothing (i didnt leave a message either). about 4 hours later, they called me back out of the blue and answered many questions very THOUROUGHLY. if their customer service is any reflection on the quality of their product = they must make a d*** good product.
i'm still looking for any thoughts/ comments/ opinions/ advice (negative or positive) regarding the kit, as $3,350 would be alot to spend on a mistake.
so if if anyone has any thoughts at all (pertaining to the subject at hand) please type away. thanx in advance
i'm still looking for any thoughts/ comments/ opinions/ advice (negative or positive) regarding the kit, as $3,350 would be alot to spend on a mistake.
so if if anyone has any thoughts at all (pertaining to the subject at hand) please type away. thanx in advance
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Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
i got there kit, great kit also. includes everything excupt a BOV. you can use a stock DSM bov since it has the same flange.
Ed the creator of BBSdesign put his kit on his 87 GTA and put down i think it was 573 rwhp on his stock l98. he changed a few things but i think it was just injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
theres a few other guys on this board running his kit and doing good.
for the price he's asking for a COMPLETE bolt on turbo kit for 82-92 3rd gens you cant get any better with out finding someone to try and build you a kit and not charge you out the ***.
if you can do any type of mechanical work on a car you can BOLT this kit on. its really no more then an exuast swap. you will have to take it to an exuast shop to have the downpipe connected to your exuast thats on the car though.
Ed the creator of BBSdesign put his kit on his 87 GTA and put down i think it was 573 rwhp on his stock l98. he changed a few things but i think it was just injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
theres a few other guys on this board running his kit and doing good.
for the price he's asking for a COMPLETE bolt on turbo kit for 82-92 3rd gens you cant get any better with out finding someone to try and build you a kit and not charge you out the ***.
if you can do any type of mechanical work on a car you can BOLT this kit on. its really no more then an exuast swap. you will have to take it to an exuast shop to have the downpipe connected to your exuast thats on the car though.
Last edited by Timz2882; 11-25-2005 at 07:15 PM.
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Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 406
Transmission: 400
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well
I dont know my buddy has it and the car runs good but it looks like it does not flow so well i am looking for a better design my self something with true long tube headers
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
I got a BOV with mine in the 650 hp kit . It's a great kit ...people who HAVE it like it alot . It has LOTS of room for the down tube ...and all other stuff on it is really quality stuff . I'd pepper this thread with pics of it . But there are alot of threads on it . They have a website aswell . But it's been done
Here si the kit
...and the link to the site
BBS designs
Happy boosting ...the kit rocks ! Some don't like the header design .... there seams to be logic in all the design ..... the goofy #8 pipe allows lots of room for the down tube .
Turbo TPI has it too ... and he is rocking the kit ...running 10.8 and expects a nice 10.3 .
cam406406 ... why are you set on somethnig with long tube headers ? There is a purpose for them ....and this ain't it . You need to read a bit more on the topic . Because there is NO USE foir them in a turbo kit . Your exhaust comes out the back of the turbo ....into a down pipe .
Here si the kit
...and the link to the site
BBS designs
Happy boosting ...the kit rocks ! Some don't like the header design .... there seams to be logic in all the design ..... the goofy #8 pipe allows lots of room for the down tube .
Turbo TPI has it too ... and he is rocking the kit ...running 10.8 and expects a nice 10.3 .
cam406406 ... why are you set on somethnig with long tube headers ? There is a purpose for them ....and this ain't it . You need to read a bit more on the topic . Because there is NO USE foir them in a turbo kit . Your exhaust comes out the back of the turbo ....into a down pipe .
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my buddy has it and the car runs good but it looks like it does not flow so well i am looking for a better design my self something with true long tube headers
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Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 406
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Axle/Gears: 9 inch
ok
ok well u two are not to smart look at the kit from bg turbo and also look at all pure turbo race cars ans see if they have longtube sets U NEED TO LOOK INTO WHAT U BUY BEFOR U BUY IT BAD ***!!!
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Re: ok
Originally posted by cam406406
ok well u two are not to smart look at the kit from bg turbo and also look at all pure turbo race cars ans see if they have longtube sets U NEED TO LOOK INTO WHAT U BUY BEFOR U BUY IT BAD ***!!!
ok well u two are not to smart look at the kit from bg turbo and also look at all pure turbo race cars ans see if they have longtube sets U NEED TO LOOK INTO WHAT U BUY BEFOR U BUY IT BAD ***!!!
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: th350 w/ b&m shift kit
to all of you giving advice or opinions on turbos = THANX, i really appreciate the input.(lets try to stay on tpoic, gentlemen/ ladys)
i've basically gathered that running more than about 7 psi is too much for a stock L98. it took Ed (from bbs) 15 psi to acheive 650 at the flywheel, so of course my next question is going to be where you guys ESTIMATE i'd be with only 7 psi, HP-wise of course?
READ - before you answer with "thats a really rough estimate to make", i UNDERSTAND that, i'm just looking for "ball-park figures" - thanx again - skunk
i've basically gathered that running more than about 7 psi is too much for a stock L98. it took Ed (from bbs) 15 psi to acheive 650 at the flywheel, so of course my next question is going to be where you guys ESTIMATE i'd be with only 7 psi, HP-wise of course?
READ - before you answer with "thats a really rough estimate to make", i UNDERSTAND that, i'm just looking for "ball-park figures" - thanx again - skunk
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Car: 1989 TA
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no
yo skunk you can run more than 7 psi my buddy turbo tpi is a almost stock just pistons and he ran 16 psi so u could go at least 9 psi
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Car: 1992 RS
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With dished pistons to lower comp. ratio and running through an intercooler you could push it up a bit I think. Maybe push it to 9psi. On a stock motor with no intercooler, I wouldn't run more than 6 or 7 just as a general rule of thumb and that's on a fresh motor, on an older motor, something with +150K I wouldn't consider it without a tear down.
As another general rule of thumb, you want the turbo as close to the exhaust ports as engine compartment room allows. This is usually achieved by using manifolds (which work great) or by turbo headers. The farther away the turbo gets, the longer it takes to spool up and the more hell you have to go through running all that damn tubing. Another consideration in a rearmount or if you must, at the end of your long tubes, is that turbos run hot as hell. I mean HOT. If it's under your car it's more likely to be blasted by the elements, IE rain and snow, and the rapid cooling of your turbo is ill advised. Not to mention melting your carpet
www.turbomustangs.com
If you haven't checked it out, you definately need to. They was even nice enough to give GM's their own area.
As another general rule of thumb, you want the turbo as close to the exhaust ports as engine compartment room allows. This is usually achieved by using manifolds (which work great) or by turbo headers. The farther away the turbo gets, the longer it takes to spool up and the more hell you have to go through running all that damn tubing. Another consideration in a rearmount or if you must, at the end of your long tubes, is that turbos run hot as hell. I mean HOT. If it's under your car it's more likely to be blasted by the elements, IE rain and snow, and the rapid cooling of your turbo is ill advised. Not to mention melting your carpet
www.turbomustangs.com
If you haven't checked it out, you definately need to. They was even nice enough to give GM's their own area.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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Re: ok
Originally posted by cam406406
ok well u two are not to smart look at the kit from bg turbo and also look at all pure turbo race cars ans see if they have longtube sets U NEED TO LOOK INTO WHAT U BUY BEFOR U BUY IT BAD ***!!!
ok well u two are not to smart look at the kit from bg turbo and also look at all pure turbo race cars ans see if they have longtube sets U NEED TO LOOK INTO WHAT U BUY BEFOR U BUY IT BAD ***!!!
First .... thems ain't no long tubes . Now as far as pure race cars ..... do you really think bringing that up has ANYTHING to do with turboing a street car ? There is a specific reason why the primaries on a race car are as long as they are . They don't just say ....hay man lets slap on some long tubes y'all . They are calculated lengths .... The other kit you are refering to .... looks nice .... he kept the promaries seperate .... and routed the turbo where they wanted . Nice he got what he wanted then .
But remember .... they aren't longtube headers ....k
Badass .... thanx man !
I been chatting it up with Turbo TPI . Nice guy . I am kinda. trying to get the numbers he does. Been picking his brain about a few things . He lowered his compression to 8:1 I think .... that helped with his boost .....oh and the aluminum vette heads help with that to I am sure .
Smokin car.
I think the BBS wastegates come with a 9 lb spring ... so you end up getting creep at around 6ish ( just an assumption )
skunkIROC .... check that mustang page like said .... frigging everything in there. . Try and hit all the stickies here too they touch on some good stuff ...
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alright, i've read alot in the past week. i've gotten many detailed pm's and emails. i've even gotten ahold of the turbo mustang guys and talked about the whole turbo concept. = i'd like to think that i've done my homework.
that being said, i'd like to report back with what i've found. i realize i sound like i'm in highschool again, BUT i think i could save people a lot of headaches if they'd read this before posting a question about turbos before they've done some research (like i was guilty of).
now i definately want to start by saying that i'm NOT putting down BBS by any means (i actually heard ALL good things about their kit). but i misunderstood its purpose. long story short - i thought you could bolt this kit to a STOCK L98 and wake up with 650hp for a mere $3350!!!!! now as amazing as that would be, it is in fact TOO good to be true. atleast to do it safely. it is capable of pushing 650hp, but you need to realize that he was running 15 PSI. 15 PSI would destroy a stock L98 for any lengthy period of time. you need to beef up some internals before making that kind of boost. plus the bottom end of the L98 is really only good to about 400-450hp anyhow. you basically have to rebuild the engine, get a rotating assembly with forged parts, h-beams, and lower compression pistons. this isnt nessecarilly cheap or simple, especially for those who expected a "bolt-on" 650hp.
now, you could run the kit without modifying the engine, but to do it safely (read- safely) you would only want to run about 4-6 PSI, maybe a hair more if your engine is really fresh. at 4-6 PSI you could expect a gain of roughly 50-75hp or so. so now you've spent $3,350 for only 50-75hp increase.
so in conclusion = the kit is capable of producing 650+hp, but you have to build you engine to handle that kind of setup. if you dont massage your engine properly, your looking at gaining 50-75hp (safely anyway). SO MY DREAM OF PAYING $3,350 TO "BOLT-ON" AN ITEM THAT BUMPS ME UP TO 650hp WITHOUT FIRST SPENDING ABOUT THAT SAME AMOUNT BEEFING MY ENGINE, WAS JUST THAT = A DREAM (but it was a good dream )
if anyone thinks that i have written incorrect info, feel free to correct me (i can handle constructive criticism), other wise, let me know if you agree so i can go to sleep thinking i got an A on my assignment. thanx again for everyones help, you guys rule - skunk
that being said, i'd like to report back with what i've found. i realize i sound like i'm in highschool again, BUT i think i could save people a lot of headaches if they'd read this before posting a question about turbos before they've done some research (like i was guilty of).
now i definately want to start by saying that i'm NOT putting down BBS by any means (i actually heard ALL good things about their kit). but i misunderstood its purpose. long story short - i thought you could bolt this kit to a STOCK L98 and wake up with 650hp for a mere $3350!!!!! now as amazing as that would be, it is in fact TOO good to be true. atleast to do it safely. it is capable of pushing 650hp, but you need to realize that he was running 15 PSI. 15 PSI would destroy a stock L98 for any lengthy period of time. you need to beef up some internals before making that kind of boost. plus the bottom end of the L98 is really only good to about 400-450hp anyhow. you basically have to rebuild the engine, get a rotating assembly with forged parts, h-beams, and lower compression pistons. this isnt nessecarilly cheap or simple, especially for those who expected a "bolt-on" 650hp.
now, you could run the kit without modifying the engine, but to do it safely (read- safely) you would only want to run about 4-6 PSI, maybe a hair more if your engine is really fresh. at 4-6 PSI you could expect a gain of roughly 50-75hp or so. so now you've spent $3,350 for only 50-75hp increase.
so in conclusion = the kit is capable of producing 650+hp, but you have to build you engine to handle that kind of setup. if you dont massage your engine properly, your looking at gaining 50-75hp (safely anyway). SO MY DREAM OF PAYING $3,350 TO "BOLT-ON" AN ITEM THAT BUMPS ME UP TO 650hp WITHOUT FIRST SPENDING ABOUT THAT SAME AMOUNT BEEFING MY ENGINE, WAS JUST THAT = A DREAM (but it was a good dream )
if anyone thinks that i have written incorrect info, feel free to correct me (i can handle constructive criticism), other wise, let me know if you agree so i can go to sleep thinking i got an A on my assignment. thanx again for everyones help, you guys rule - skunk
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Originally posted by 84z28350
Think the kits can be rigged up to a carb?
All of their pics show TPI setups...
Think the kits can be rigged up to a carb?
All of their pics show TPI setups...
All it takes is $$$$$$
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damn what are you guys running to shoot 10's? just this turbo kit and a pretty much a stock l98 with maybe a few internals.
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I hope Turbo TPI gives ya the details ...but someone just PM'd me and said he was running a 10.2 now .....with TPI .
BTW turboTPI ...your webpage won't let me in ... the www.
BTW turboTPI ...your webpage won't let me in ... the www.
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Originally posted by skunkIROC
now i definately want to start by saying that i'm NOT putting down BBS by any means (i actually heard ALL good things about their kit). but i misunderstood its purpose. long story short - i thought you could bolt this kit to a STOCK L98 and wake up with 650hp for a mere $3350!!!!! now as amazing as that would be, it is in fact TOO good to be true. atleast to do it safely. it is capable of pushing 650hp, but you need to realize that he was running 15 PSI. 15 PSI would destroy a stock L98 for any lengthy period of time. you need to beef up some internals before making that kind of boost. plus the bottom end of the L98 is really only good to about 400-450hp anyhow. you basically have to rebuild the engine, get a rotating assembly with forged parts, h-beams, and lower compression pistons. this isnt nessecarilly cheap or simple, especially for those who expected a "bolt-on" 650hp.
now, you could run the kit without modifying the engine, but to do it safely (read- safely) you would only want to run about 4-6 PSI, maybe a hair more if your engine is really fresh. at 4-6 PSI you could expect a gain of roughly 50-75hp or so. so now you've spent $3,350 for only 50-75hp increase.
now i definately want to start by saying that i'm NOT putting down BBS by any means (i actually heard ALL good things about their kit). but i misunderstood its purpose. long story short - i thought you could bolt this kit to a STOCK L98 and wake up with 650hp for a mere $3350!!!!! now as amazing as that would be, it is in fact TOO good to be true. atleast to do it safely. it is capable of pushing 650hp, but you need to realize that he was running 15 PSI. 15 PSI would destroy a stock L98 for any lengthy period of time. you need to beef up some internals before making that kind of boost. plus the bottom end of the L98 is really only good to about 400-450hp anyhow. you basically have to rebuild the engine, get a rotating assembly with forged parts, h-beams, and lower compression pistons. this isnt nessecarilly cheap or simple, especially for those who expected a "bolt-on" 650hp.
now, you could run the kit without modifying the engine, but to do it safely (read- safely) you would only want to run about 4-6 PSI, maybe a hair more if your engine is really fresh. at 4-6 PSI you could expect a gain of roughly 50-75hp or so. so now you've spent $3,350 for only 50-75hp increase.
Like I said when we talked about this off the board, that is what the turbo can move, air wise, that doesn’t mean that’s what you’re going to make.
FWIW, the short block should be able to survive that power output, the question is controlling detonation with the stock heads/compression. Some combination of race gas, water injection, engine management… and if you’re careful you should be able to pull 15psi off.
Pump gas in everyday driver street trim… doubtful.
Originally posted by 84z28350
Think the kits can be rigged up to a carb?
All of their pics show TPI setups...
Think the kits can be rigged up to a carb?
All of their pics show TPI setups...
For that matter, the site isn’t that clear about this, does that price include the cold side plumbing and some way of adding fuel under boost or not? I was under the impression that it didn’t
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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Cold side plumbing ? as in the filter and ducting up to the turbo inlet ? Then yes. Comes with a 6"K&N cone filter and the associated ducting and clamps .
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Originally posted by D's89IROCZ
Cold side plumbing ? as in the filter and ducting up to the turbo inlet ? Then yes. Comes with a 6"K&N cone filter and the associated ducting and clamps .
Cold side plumbing ? as in the filter and ducting up to the turbo inlet ? Then yes. Comes with a 6"K&N cone filter and the associated ducting and clamps .
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you understood correct, they make a seperate cold side tube (big red one in the pic), that isnt normally included with that kit. they were offering it as a special "extra" but only til december 1st, so order tonight or you have to buy the tube seperately again.
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Damn cam406 he wants 650 hp not 1800.I've seen graphs of a 5.0 that made 900 at the wheels with home made log manifolds.My little stock 307 factored near 500fwhp with a small single on a cast iron turbo exhaust manifold. Those headers are pretty but they aren't an absolute.
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Car: 92 Formula 350
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Axle/Gears: Bone stock 10bolt and 3.23's
Originally posted by D's89IROCZ
I hope Turbo TPI gives ya the details ...but someone just PM'd me and said he was running a 10.2 now .....with TPI .
BTW turboTPI ...your webpage won't let me in ... the www.
I hope Turbo TPI gives ya the details ...but someone just PM'd me and said he was running a 10.2 now .....with TPI .
BTW turboTPI ...your webpage won't let me in ... the www.
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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Originally posted by crazy3rdgen
ok fine then
ok fine then
I haven't ran mine yet , so I can't tell you . But I think Turbo TPI just has some nice pistons and stock bottom end . Not exactly sure though .
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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83 Crossfire TA
I copy and pasted off of the website
" **Notes; Kit shown with optional inlet pipe not included "
Sorry man I figured it came with it .
I copy and pasted off of the website
" **Notes; Kit shown with optional inlet pipe not included "
Sorry man I figured it came with it .
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Car: 92 Formula 350
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Transmission: ArtCarr 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Bone stock 10bolt and 3.23's
Originally posted by D's89IROCZ
I haven't ran mine yet , so I can't tell you . But I think Turbo TPI just has some nice pistons and stock bottom end . Not exactly sure though .
I haven't ran mine yet , so I can't tell you . But I think Turbo TPI just has some nice pistons and stock bottom end . Not exactly sure though .
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Car: Looking
does anyone have any more info on how thats set up?
just looking at it, i cant really see how it would fit under our hoods (obv. it does).
I can see the turbo flange, and what looks like part of a cross over pipe? whats the third pipe to the right most part of the picutre?
just a little confused.
just looking at it, i cant really see how it would fit under our hoods (obv. it does).
I can see the turbo flange, and what looks like part of a cross over pipe? whats the third pipe to the right most part of the picutre?
just a little confused.
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Wastegate?
http://www.bbsdesigns.net/scstore/gr...0Trademark.JPG
Here's Customer Rides off BBSDesigns.net site:
http://www.bbsdesigns.net/BBSDesignsPoweredEngines
http://www.bbsdesigns.net/scstore/gr...0Trademark.JPG
Here's Customer Rides off BBSDesigns.net site:
http://www.bbsdesigns.net/BBSDesignsPoweredEngines
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if you have any questions regarding the BBS products, email or call Ed himself. he'll glady (and quickly) respond with whatever info you seek. his contact numbers and e-mail address are on the web-page (obviously)
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I have been corresponding with Ed and he has been getting alot of email so if he doesn't respond right away please don't get mad.
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WOOHOO! My video is up on his site.
Ed is truely someone thats willing to help and explain things very clearly (sometimes over and over )
Ed is truely someone thats willing to help and explain things very clearly (sometimes over and over )
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Transmission: THO400
Axle/Gears: Forged axles, 3.23 rear
I realise that. I was refering to the times when I didn't understnad something the poor bloke would have to explain it to me in increasing simplistic terms.
If he didnt have so many customers im sure he'd post more Can only be a good thing I guess.
On another note, I backed but my first G-Tech time (12.2) with an actual time slip last week. 12.3 @111.38mph on street tyres and only 3-4psi.
If he didnt have so many customers im sure he'd post more Can only be a good thing I guess.
On another note, I backed but my first G-Tech time (12.2) with an actual time slip last week. 12.3 @111.38mph on street tyres and only 3-4psi.
#42
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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Car: 89 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: Intercooled Twin Turbo LQ4
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Thats nice performance for such a low boost pressure, esp on street tires! Good job.
(BTW, Is that a stock long block and TPI system?)
(BTW, Is that a stock long block and TPI system?)
#43
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Car: 1990 Camaro IROC-T
Engine: L98 Turbo (GT40)
Transmission: THO400
Axle/Gears: Forged axles, 3.23 rear
As far as I know mate. I know I have never opened up the motor and I always asummed the previous owner hadnt either since nothing was mentioned, but my NA, N2O and now boost times all seem to be slightly above par. If i could be bothered I guess I could check the injectors since they look a bit differant to the ones in my manual but as far as i know im fairly stock.
Thats run was on my 275/60/15s running about 20psi i think.
Unless im boosting slightly more and my guage isnt accurance (its a bit of a cheapy), but Ive put a 3.something psi spring into my WG so i doubt it. Id love to run more boost but it just soo bloody hot here id rather leave it down for now and wait untill ive got some form of cooling sorted out.
Thats run was on my 275/60/15s running about 20psi i think.
Unless im boosting slightly more and my guage isnt accurance (its a bit of a cheapy), but Ive put a 3.something psi spring into my WG so i doubt it. Id love to run more boost but it just soo bloody hot here id rather leave it down for now and wait untill ive got some form of cooling sorted out.
#44
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Join Date: Jan 2003
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
Originally posted by Raven90IROC
As far as I know mate. I know I have never opened up the motor and I always asummed the previous owner hadnt either since nothing was mentioned, but my NA, N2O and now boost times all seem to be slightly above par. If i could be bothered I guess I could check the injectors since they look a bit differant to the ones in my manual but as far as i know im fairly stock.
Thats run was on my 275/60/15s running about 20psi i think.
Unless im boosting slightly more and my guage isnt accurance (its a bit of a cheapy), but Ive put a 3.something psi spring into my WG so i doubt it. Id love to run more boost but it just soo bloody hot here id rather leave it down for now and wait untill ive got some form of cooling sorted out.
As far as I know mate. I know I have never opened up the motor and I always asummed the previous owner hadnt either since nothing was mentioned, but my NA, N2O and now boost times all seem to be slightly above par. If i could be bothered I guess I could check the injectors since they look a bit differant to the ones in my manual but as far as i know im fairly stock.
Thats run was on my 275/60/15s running about 20psi i think.
Unless im boosting slightly more and my guage isnt accurance (its a bit of a cheapy), but Ive put a 3.something psi spring into my WG so i doubt it. Id love to run more boost but it just soo bloody hot here id rather leave it down for now and wait untill ive got some form of cooling sorted out.
#45
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Originally posted by Red91CamaroRS
how much are just the BBS single turbo headders alone?
how much are just the BBS single turbo headders alone?
Oh well, at least someone is trying to sell them now.
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