zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

Joe,

I'm not sure if you seen what I did with the stock 3rd gen manifolds or not. But here is a pic of what I did. This is the drivers side flipped and chopped off and welded. Here is where the turbo sits in the engine bay for reference.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I like mild steel myself. 16 ga for a few yrs now and still holding up well.

Wouldnt mind trying 11 ga or schedule 10

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Any pictures of how the crossover runs?

Thanks!

-- Joe

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That drivers side setup looks good with the schedule 40. Close to what I had in mind. I was thinking cut the existing outlet and angle rearward as opposed to forward. Then cut out the upper portion where the manifold dips down and weld on the T4 outlet box and flange there.

Kind of like the twin pic I post. Look a the drivers side one where the oulet is capped off. Instead angle rearward and make as inlet from under oil pan crossover. Where I have the T3 flange would be the T4 flange. The thing is that it may put the T4 turbo too far rearward and that is why Zachoryhorn has it forward more. I try to make the crossover under the pan when possible just because it makes less work on the drivers side manifold. Just bolt up and go. I do like that setup he posted though.

Maybe cut the existing outlet higher and try to run the crossover under the pipe on the passenger side to still get an oil pan crossover? Plug access is a PITA though.

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

I think this is all I took. I can take more once it gets above 0 degrees. In this pic it's only tacked together. But you get the idea. To the right is the flipped drivers side manifold. It cleared everything.



Plug access at #2 & #4

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Interesting.

Would LT1 fbody manifolds be better? I noticed they are more like a cast header than a log ?



-- Joe

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I like the LT1 manifolds only in the configuration you posted a pic of. For other configs they are too high to start with. You can't flip em up side down. The don't have a good spot for an inlet so the merge must be external to manifold.

Since you are exploring ideas. Have you thought about the 3/8" wall 2.5"x2.5" box steel? Weld up the ends, Drill holes for bolts and weld in dowels to keep from crushing. You can put the inlet in the front or back, and the outlet right where u want it. Can even weld a 2"x3" box pedestal for the T4 flange to sit on. It would support the HP you desire.

I have a pic of a min effort setup I did with flipped early 80s truck manifolds. No mods to the manifolds, just an under oil pan crossover and a passenger output to merge T4 flange. I will dig up a pic later to post. I am not sure if it is too high to fit under a third gen hood.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I was thinking in a configuration like zacharyhorn's, would they be better than TPI manifolds? (I have a set in the shop, which is why I ask).

I did, actually last spring I mentioned that and someone told me it was a dumb idea that it would flow horrible. I had a ton of box and rectangle stock left over from another project. I was thinking drill the holes out to the OD of steel spacer stock, weld them in, make a little box for the T4 mount and a oval pipe transitioning into round for crossover. But everyone said dumping from the head into basically an open chamber would be a horrible idea.

What's your take on that?



-- Joe

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I think the LT1 manifolds would outflow the TPI in the setup with the front crossover. I never tried matching up the LT1 D port to regular SBC heads though.

Well yeah, the rectangle box sounds like a dumb idea. But I like cast manifolds and they are also horrible at flow and a dumb idea. I bet the rectangle flow is only slightly worse than a TPI manifold. You would be surprised what works. Sometimes I cobble together some junk and "try it" and before I know it I run it all the time becuase it works better than expected.

It is a tradeoff between wasting money and time on doing it right (321SS or inconel turbo headers) vs time&money (rectangle steel) or somewhere in between (mild steel headers/good cast iron manifold). I prefer the stock manifolds because I have easy free access. If I had a bunch of 3/8" wall box steel I wouldn't be afraid of running it.
If it is a daily driver I like cast iron and thick steel design. For a 3 month out of the year street car that is race friendly 700+ hp then yah go with the hi-flow mild steel.

If I installed a rectangle steel header and put you in the drivers seat and said name that exhaust manifold type I don't think anyone would say "man, this thing is a dog. Must have a box steel header on it". Instead, it would be "this thing has some *****". Open the hood, and you will get some snickers from some of the "experts".

A little bit of back pressure before the turbo doesn't bother me, but after the turbo it needs free flow as possible due to compound effect.

Nothing really technical that I stated. Mostly just opinion BS that is easily ignored.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I've got some LT1 manifolds in the shop. I'm awfully tempted to fab something over the weekend with them.

I'm looking at my engine bay earlier thinking, man if someone made tight radius cast steel 90* elbows I could make this real tight.

Then I thought to myself.. home depot!

I could in theory weld a nipple to the manifold, twist everything together and then if I'm happy with the layout weld it in place...

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm thinking about making a bracket that will mount the turbo to the block, then I can work on the hot side piping with the turbo locked into the spot I think it will work best.

If I can angle it and run my IC on the passenger side, I'd save on a lot of bends on the cold side.

-- Joe

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

If you look at my manifold picture, the 90 right off where I hacked the manifold is a VERY tight radius. Sch 40 pipe 90. Worked perfect. I just hope the welds hold up.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

You can get the "weld els" weld elbows at a local plumbing supply store usually. Looks like you want a 2" or 2.5" schedule 40 weld el.

Yes, make a bracket that bolts to the head holding the turbo where you want it. In your case I would work making pipe on the T4 flange first and work towards the manifold. MIG tack it all together. Unbolt manifold and bracket. Weld up steel-steel MIG, then heat and weld cast-steel nickel/308. Cool it off SLOWLY in cat litter/speedy dry.
Make crossover. Looks good for 800HP my guess.

McMaster also sells weld els if you can't find them local.
The SSAC setup suckers people in. For $210 it looks great until you go to install it. After all the cutting & welding it just isn't worth it to try and make it fit right and be reliable. With the cast manifold you can surface/mill them flat and they will seal with no gaskets and stay that way for just about ever. The bolt heads are 9/16" and easy access.

I bet in a day or less you have it all fabbed.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

You designed it well so there is a coupler close to the flange making removal somewhat easy. At worse, if it does crack get a $15 package of 55% nickel rods on ebay or 1lb locally and bring to local stick weld shop to have them do it. Prob 1hr worth of labor depending on the cool down time and how they charge........or bring a cooler full of speedy dry and bring it home in that right away.

Maybe just ebay, craigslist, harbor freight a stick welder that does DC for $100.

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the idea! Thanks for the compliment. I plan on building some sort of brace for it eventually. Not sure if I'll need one or not. Right now that manifold is all that's supporting the turbo.

Joe, this setup is fairly simple to mock-up and build. Very easy removal as well.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

OK

1) Got a number of weld-el's from the plumbing supply house
2) Got 3lbs of 309ss rods
3) Got sand, and a 5 gallon bucket
4) Tested stick welding a junk cast manifold using the recommended procedure. Works great!
5) Have some LT1 fbody manifolds.

Unfortunately the T4 flange I had on the shelf is warped.. I don't know if I can straighten it out in my press or if I should order a new one. If I order a new one it won't be here probably for a week.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Got some new T4 flanges in.

I didn't realize the outter bolts on LT1 headers are farthur out then SBC head flange. Not a biggy, at least one hole on each side is drilled on my AFR heads and the other I guess I'll just add a hole on the manifold.

hopefully will have time to work on this in between the holidays.

-- Joe

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't sure how the ports were going to line up. So the ports line up fine but the bolt holes on the outer end bolts are off? Is it a re-drill or egg out the manifold holes?

One thing I didn't mention, I peen the 1-2" weld very well before making another 1-2" weld and try to go in opposite directions.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

the outter two holes are in the second position. I've seen vette manifolds where the rear hole was like this but never the front, so my AFR heads match up to one side not the other. I think I'll just slot the hole inward.

The ports seem to line up, and the D actually matches the AFR port - just not as wide.

Good advice. I'll try to do that. I saw a video from that "chucke2009" dude or whatever his name is welding a cast vise and he was doing that.

Any advice on merging the two pipes into the T4 flange?

Do you guys normally just cut open one side of he first pipe and kinda butt the second pipe up to it ?

-- Joe

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

The bolt hole spacing sounds like the strange 305 vs 350 head bolt spacing thing that they did on the passenger side exhaust manifold. The GM heads have the extra hole for the 305 or 350 exhaust manifold in the rear.

That is how I do the merge.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Did you mean to post a picture?

Edit: this is a stock lt1 head.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Spent a couple hours in the shop today. Got part of it made up. Need to finish the merge and the crossover.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Just about done. Need to do some porting and then paint.

What do you guys think?

-- Joe

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Looks similar to what I want/need. Curious question- why not bring the crossover stock-like and merge on the passenger side, maybe around the #2 plug area? I see a lot of people use a custom manifold/header on drivers side for single turbos and plumb hot side in front of engine or under harmonic balancer and am curious as to why most do this? clearance?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You have two options, either merge it between #6 & #8, or merge it in the front. On my tubular setup I did the #6 & #8 merge with the crossover under the pan like a OE y-pipe. Close to the starter, close to the plug boots, and leaves little room for the downpipe.

I'm not a fan of crossovers in the front if it's between the radiator and the block, but hugging around the balancer should be fairly safe as long as you have ample clearance with the steering linkage. With these manifolds it would be almost impossible to run the crossover in the rear location so I'm running it up front.

Pros and cons to everything on these cars. I have some minor concerns about the 2" crossover diameter and the port size of the AFR 210 heads vs these manifolds. I'm half tempted to sell the heads and buy some 200cc heads with smaller ports. Figure I've got about 4 months to finish this thing.

-- Joe

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for response. I'm learning a ton fro the posts of you, Project89, zz3astro, and Orr89 RocZ. Others as well, but you 4 have loads of knowledge for someone in the planning stage. Trying to learn what works/don't, etc, since most of you have already a ton of real world experience.

After posting my question about anyone building logs I studied all 16?+ pages of ZZ3 Astro, his turbo headers are awesome, very close to what I've envisioned without the custom made headers.
Wish I had the tools and skills to tackle something like that. I'm figuring out real quick that it's not very practical to do what I'm wanting to do without major welding skills. Maybe I can somehow pick up something to do a little tack welding and send them to someone who knows wtf they are doing to finish.

Many props to you guys. Someday I'll get there, hopefully. I'd love to just charge about $1500 worth of welders and plasma cutters from eastwood....maybe someday.

Then I'd have to hire one of y'all to show me how the heck to actually use it, I'd just weld my toes together and burn my little shop to the ground, I'm afraid.

Keep up the great work! I'm following on a lot of these turbo builds. Nothing constructive to add, so I'm a lurker. But I love all the custom, real world solutions to problems. Rich folks can just through $1000's at a problem and come up with a (beautifully, usually) solution, but I get a lot more comprihensive knowledge from the likes of you folks.

Great job, the lot of you. Gives me some hope.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Looks good to me. Oil pan merge or under harmonic each have pros and cons. Oil pan is good for heat away from components but ends up tucked right next to the spark plugs. Plug change is a PITA and wire life is shortened unless you make heat shields.

What driver's side manifold are you going with to do the under harmonic cross over?

Are you going to drill the exhaust manifold and weld in a piece of pipe to move the bolt hole to mount to the head?

I would leave the heads alone and do a 2.25" or 2.50" crossover, but I tend to overkill piping on hot & cold. Makes upgrades easier which always seem to follow.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

As of right now I'm planning on using the other LT1 manifold. I have not test fitted it yet, but I do know I need to move my power steering hoses a little bit.

Yep kinda. I slotted it, what I'm going to do is I have some steel spacer stock in the shop. I'll bolt 'em up and then weld the spacer in place. That way I can use a full length stud.

The inside diameter of the manifolds is 2", and all the elbows I used are 2" so I didn't see a point to expand it out to 2 1/4 or 2 1/2.. I'm just waiting for one flex to show up for my wastegate piping. Decided to go with the 50MM gate.

It's cold as heck and I just finished scraping my horse turnouts with the tracktor before the big storm we're getting tonight. Probably go in the shop tomorrow and tinker some more.

I bought a new sandblast cabinet and put it in the shop yesterday. Filled it with 50lbs of crushed glass and went into the house. When I came back outside all 50lbs were on the floor. Apparently the trap door at the bottom isn't tight enough of a seal. I turned the lights off and went back in the house.

-- Joe

Kingtal0n

What a trip down memory lane

When I did this, I used some old Vette manifolds, I think from an L98.

My father arc welded everything with a large gas powered welder/generator. He had some stock meant for bridges (still has a ton in the back yard, "scrap" metal good for projects...) and knew enough about what rods to use, everything was super thick.

For a single turbo I probably would have left the rear flange alone on one of the manifolds and mated it to the OEM flange from the OEM exhaust from the original vehicle (cut the OEM flange off and used it, to make the crossover) that way you have a nice flange to bolt/unbolt that is in a factory position.















I was super impatient back then (10~ years ago) and I tried to do the entire project in just a week. So it was neither clean nor pretty. But it was cheap, the turbos and intercoolers were donated by Rob @ Force-EFI (not sure if he is still around but... thanks Rob). So were the fittings and braided hose. The air filters, bovs, U-bends, and manifolds came to about $350.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The ones in the pictures? Those are fbody manifolds Vette L98 manifolds are tubular.

[QUOTE=Kingtal0n;5861739]
For a single turbo I probably would have left the rear flange alone on one of the manifolds and mated it to the OEM flange from the OEM exhaust from the original vehicle (cut the OEM flange off and used it, to make the crossover) that way you have a nice flange to bolt/unbolt that is in a factory position.

I guess if you could make it work plumbing wise. For my goals I found this solution to work best for me. The crossover should be out of the way, and the downpipe will have ample clearance by the starter so nothing should get heat soaked.




I don't remember you doing a turbo build. I vaguely remember you doing a small roots blower thread years back. Didn't you have a dsm too or was that someone else?

-- Joe

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=anesthes;5861798]The ones in the pictures? Those are fbody manifolds Vette L98 manifolds are tubular.

Joe,

With my crossover under the balancer, I welded a V-Band up at the end of the factory thirdgen manifold that is flipped. It fits perfect with the stock power steering. Great job on the LT1 Pass side! Here are a couple more mock up pics.

Kingtal0n

First I was NA carb, built my first chevy engine. The car had 2.77's in the rear. I didn't understand how bad that was yet.



I was obsessed with camshaft profiles. I had a different grind in the engine every couple of months. I should have changed the rear gear though, it was really holding me back.



Then I went TBI, OEM block

Then back to carb, roots blown, built my second engine w/ forgies.




I had the engine in and out several times for multiple reasons. I got to know the sbc inside and out. Bent a few valves. Went through a few pistons and heads.




tried my hand at porting, gasket matching,





and added the TPI, stand-alone, with the intention of boosting it (still at 9:1)
Another Video



The car was officially fast enough to require a proper 700R4 transmission, built my first auto trans at this point.





Then swapped on a stealthram, roller cam, and Turbos.


Then sort of did the same thing with Nissan. I found the performance I was looking for in a rwd body around 2800lbs. If I build a another chevy engine, it will probably go into a 240sx.


Never had a DSM....
... probably never will

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

So DRIVER side does work. It's very close to my PS lines. I have a hydraulic line on the pressure side of my PS pump because it feeds my hydroboost first. I gotta figure out the best way to re-run that. Right now it's a saginaw to -6, and then a 90*.

But anyhow, I gasket matched the driver side and smoothed the port entries so it should work out pretty damn good. I even have room for 400 dipstick!

Gonna gasket match and port the passenger side, then start working on the wastegate. I can't do a whole lot today because I need some vbands and I'm not paying $129 at pep boys for something I can get on ebay for $20..

Do you guys think it's absolutely critical to run a flex on the wastegate? I'm running out of room.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Ok both sides gasket matched and ported out. Have a lot of time into these but they are really coming out nice. Port size matches my AFR heads, and the transititions into the 'log' portion are nice and smooth.

I've gotta finish up the wastegate and weld two angles and vbands onto these then they go into the blast cabinet, and then we will ceramic coat them.

I ordered all my vbands, tubes, etc for the crossover and the downpipe.

Here is the price list:

Stock LT1 manifolds $30
Weld Elbows $38
THICK T4 Flange $15
Misc flat stock $10
Misc vbands, bends, flex, for crossover and downpipe $250
Techline ceramic black $25
Misc welding supplies $$$??

So figure $365-375 in materials, and factor in labor and ship supplies (electrodes, mig wire, gas, electric, blast media, etc)

I think it's going to work out nice.

I'm going to make a 2pc downpipe - so it will detach from the turbo using a vband, and it will have a ball/socket flange after the 90* bend downward. I'm going to take advantage of the threaded fitting on the top of the manifold and make a bracket to hold the downpipe in place. That way any weight or bounce from the exhaust won't be pulling on the vband @ the turbo.

I'm half tempted to weld a new interlocking vband on the turbo itself. Someone said I can have a machine shop machine the turbo to be interlocking?


Thank you zacharyhorn - if I hadn't seen your pictures I wouldn't have done this. Such a simple design yet I hadn't thought about doing it that way. Also thanks to project89, junkcltr, Orr89RocZ for advice and experience through PM's and on forum.

(p.s, the 7/8 socket is on the broken 02 sensor that won't come out with my impact gun. Gonna probably have to weld it shut).


-- Joe

project89

iTrader: (1)

a machine shop should be able to machine the female receiver groove on the turbine flange for you u just need one of the interlockking vabands to take with it to the shop. i may have a spare male flange , ill find out for ya monday id i do u can have it.


one question is the downpipe going to clear the valvecover looks like its going to run right into it

edit

u have a blast cabinet and an oven for doing coatings?
how much to do a set of my up and forwards ?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I have a interlocking 3" vband on the way. I was either gonna weld it to the housing or have it machined. I'll call the machine shop tomorrow and see what they say.

The Picture is a little misleading due to the angle. The flange is in the exact same spot as it was on my tubular header. I made a nice JIG to hold T4 flanges, then built this up based on the turbo location. (so now I can repeat a number of times). The DP comes out the turbo 45 degrees then swings back 45 degrees so it's along side the manifold then 90* straight down. (then a dramatic series of bends to get to the muffler lol).

I do have a blast cabinet for media blasting. I have a kitchen oven that I stick parts in when the wife is not home.

For big stuff that doesn't fit in my oven I have the guy down the street do it. (like chopper frames, long tube headers, etc) He has a walk-in oven that will bake at 625f.

I'm not good enough, and I don't have quite a large enough oven to do stuff commercially. Plus, like I said, I do it when I know the wife won't be home for hours.

I'm pretty sure Chris (tpi383) still does coatings?

-- Joe

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

Looks great Joe! I don't run flex on my WG. I just run it on the crossover. VERY Simple design and it works WELL! I have to make a few braces for my DP (like you said, with the threaded holes at the top) and a brace for the turbo itself. I wish I would've had my manifolds blasted... I will eventually have everything coated. Do you guys know a ballpark cost on how much it is to coat the hotside? Keep up the great work!

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Spent a little time in the shop working on the downpipe. I ran out of mig wire so I guess I'm done for today.

I welded a nut to the top of the manifold where an AIR connection or something was. I made a little bracket to hold the downpipe, that way all the weight isn't on the Vband flange.

I'm using the interlocking vbands.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

This is what it looks like in the car. Just need to connect the WG to the downpipe.


Where do you guys get the flexible exhaust tube that like the OEM uses for EGR valves and stuff? The braided flex pipe is a little too bulky for what I need.

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

coming along well Joe. Btw I started a thread about the issue im having in the dfi ecm section

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty amused by this whole thread, wait till I finish with my replies and you guys will see why...

I have some (I think) 2" box that I turned into exactly this, but I took and cut a long wedge out of it and capped the back end so it goes from about a 1x2 at the back of the manifold to a 2x2 by the time it goes past the third port. The plan was to use some 1/2" (or whatever fits over a stock 3/8" bolt, I still have 2 sections of it sitting on my bench from when I was messing with it..) black iron pipe that I was going to use for sleeves/spacers to keep from crushing.

It was my first project with a new MM211 autoset that I was experimenting with the autoset feature (which I didn't really like), so my welds aren't my prettiest but they're quite functional (and maybe prettier than a lot of what is in this thread ;-) ), and I figured finish it up with a flap disk and coat it and it will look like it was formed in that shape, it won't even have any weld seams.

The car that it was going on went away and some if it is sitting in the corner, some still on the bench. If figured I'd use it for something some day...

I remember seeing that... I could have sworn I posted in that thread... I actually think it's a great solution for a compact setup and doesn't work as badly as people say it would.

Back in the early day of the turboforums (I think it was turbomustangs back then) there was a guy with a dodge dakota I think with a 5.2 in it and manifolds made like that that was running stupid fast...

I made a set of manifolds for a 500cid Caddie in a 66 or 67 lemans like that, mostly (also heated and bent a chunk of some 1/4" steel plate to form a nice transition in one spot) and used some generic steel exhaust flanges that the owner of the car got at some muffler shop to attach it to the rest of the exhaust. To fit some of the cast elbows into the elbow I just bolted the manifold down to the table and grabbed a big hole saw (I think it was 3") and plunged it in at the angle I needed the bend to come out).

It looked kind of butch, and the welds going from the cast manifold to the cast elbow (different cast...) were kind of special but they worked. That setup has been running for close to 10 years (unfortunately I was at the guy's funeral about 2 years ago, his B-I-L is driving it now), and would smoke the tires when you mashed the throttle at 65mph.

The nice part of this for a turbo manifold is if you lay it out well you can basically setup a stepped anti-reversion setup on the inside.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Nice Joe, how's this one coming? What turbo is that and what engine? What are you hoping to get out of it?

Funny thing #1- back in the day when they were new it was pretty hard to show any real advantage going shorty headers over stock manifolds on an LT1... those manifolds are better than people give them credit for, so I was thinking that they might make a great solution for some things for years...

#2- I've had this thread open on my laptop since post #3 thinking when I get the chance I'll run out to the garage and take a pic of the LT1 on the stand and the cut up LT1 manifolds that I was playing with... I wanted to use them in a 3rd gen and I didn't have a SBC style motor mount to work around (the passenger side LT1 mount shell is in a different location) and didn't like the front crossover so I never finished them (these might be 10years old now).

I have another partially done set that has an LT1 driver's manifold on the driver's side, crossover through the stock location and the start of a weld el setup on the passenger side to mate up to that. No issues with the starter and stuff, but hated how BBS has it come up over the top of the #6 spark plug and mating it up in the middle over the top of #4&6 wasn't working out like I'd like (I finally think I figured out how I wanted to do it by cutting out the middle the 4 and 6 el and welding them together, but then that project went away also (I'm starting to sense a theme with how my 3rd gen projects have gone over the last few years :-/ ).

I've wondered where a tubular K would make extra room in there... I have a UMI sitting in the basement without a home...

I've been thinking about that pile of parts and where I want to go with my current '87 TA (thinking 305 turbo)... and have everything in a big pile thinking about it while I work on other parts of the car.

Maybe I need to pick up some v-bands and look at these again, what do you guys like for v-bands? Are there cheap stepped ones (I have some flat 3" ones that i've been happy with for headers... but I think I only have one or 2 smaller ones sitting around that I haven't been thrilled with)

Joe- I'm curious, do you have any better pics of what you did with the front 2 bolts on the passenger side manifold? I like how your setup is turning out (not thrilled about the front crossover, wonder if there's room on my TA for that, a 36mm sway bar and wonderbar), but that is the part that I'm having a problem picturing. I actually have a box of tight and normal radius bends sitting right there because I was hoping to hold them up and see what would fit (of course, again, no passenger side mount shell so I'll have to imagine where that will get in the way).

another thought I had was that it looks like if you moved the wastgate out slightly towards the strut tower it it will make the merges much easier to make, but it might make working on it more of a PITA.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I actually have not touched it in a little over a month. The transmission is out of the car, and I don't want to start on the crossover until I know exactly what angle my engine will be. Even with the 2" crossover, it's very tight between the steering linkage, balancer, swaybar, etc.

Regarding the bolt holes in the header, I just slotted them inward and ground the casting a little to fit the bolt head. The opposing side works as-is since my AFR's have the extra hole threaded on the left of each flange. Everything has been ported/gasket matched. I still need to sandblast and ceramic coat them. Maybe in a few weeks.

I'm about half way into a TH350 build and I started having second thoughts. I think I'm going to spend the next week or two playing with the sled, snow plowing, etc and then maybe return to this project mid march.

The LT1 manifolds are nice. A tubular k-member might help, but at this point I just need some creative bends.

The other thing I'm stuck on is the down pipe. I had it run along side the TH350 previously and it really cooks the trans pan, lines, etc. I'm tempted to re-route it like factory does but my stupid BMR subframe connectors are in the way. So I might have to cut those up and redo them.

I'm also trying to decide if I want to use braided lines for the transmission or keep the steel lines I have right now.

And I have to re-do one line on my hydroboost cuz it's too close to the manifold on the left side. I bought some 37 degree flaring tools and a bunch of -6 tube nuts/sleeves so I'll probably re-do it with some steel line so I can hug the block.


Anyway, I gotta go plow a few parking lots out. L8r!

-- Joe

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

Looks good in the car Joe! Going back to the first post in the thread, You can see I used the McMaster schedule pipe welded to the cast manifold similar to what you did. I have the turbo mounted but I don't have a brace. Do you think a brace is necessary on my setup? I ran it last year without one. I just don't want the welds to crack.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I basically copied your design but I tucked the T4 flange closer to the engine. I decided to brace the turbo because I didn't want all of the weight of a heavy turbo bearing down on the cast weld. I mean, I'm pretty confident that I welded it properly but still.

On yours, I almost wonder if you have even more leverage against that weld so, I'd also consider a brace.

Hopefully get back on this in a few weeks. Right now I wanna play with my sled while we have 100+ inches of snowfall

-- Joe

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

I miss my Arctic Cat!!! Have fun! I'll get back to my car once it gets above 0 degrees here.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Manifolds came out nice. Need to make the crossover.

Did a DIS ignition conversion too. Coil packs mounted on firewall.

-- Joe

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

anesthes, the manifolds turned out pretty good!

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

What power steering pump/reservoir is that?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Pump, reservoir, and hydroboost are all astrovan units. 1994 I think.

-- Joe