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did a 1/8 mile tnt this weekend since the funny car nationals were in town. Made two hits since it was so busy and i got tired of waiting around.
first hit went 1.35 60 then top of first blew tires off. Track was hot and junk. Next pass left the same with a 1.34 60 and put in a slight delay and 2 lbs less boost, and short shifted first. Spun second slightly but went to third early i guess and it went down. Just a 5.44 at 137. 19.5-20 psi
Not a good year lol struggled at my home track due to good surface prep on a radial tire. The new concrete top layer is breaking loose and not holding anything with power. Managed a shitty 8.20 at 178 with a 1.4 60 and shorting 2nd bad. 19-20 psi
went to a superb track, Maryland international for radial prep tnt and broke rear end. Lol. Had trans issues too, rebuilt trans and put in a new 2.10/1.40 gear set. Got it back and had issues but tried it, wouldnt shift 1-2 on this hit
Got a nice bulletproof 9” in car. Midwest chassis did a nice job.
maxed car out today. 27 psi and no more power above that lol happy although i was hoping they had more in them. I figured 120 lbs min nearer 2k hp but oh well
I saw this video pop up on my youtube subscription to your page.
WOW. Those kind of power numbers are so far out of my realm of reality that all I can really say is WOW; incredibly impressive. You rock !
Got a nice bulletproof 9” in car. Midwest chassis did a nice job.
maxed car out today. 27 psi and no more power above that lol happy although i was hoping they had more in them. I figured 120 lbs min nearer 2k hp but oh well
Do you have any Images of the Frame/ Uni-Body work...?
I'd like to compare it to what I have been doing.
I have not put more than 1,400 to 1,500 to the Wheels in a Customer's 3rd-Gen.
Everything with more HP that I have built has been a Back-Half Car, if not a Tube-Chassis Car.
Thanks in advance!
Do you have any Images of the Frame/ Uni-Body work...?
I'd like to compare it to what I have been doing.
I have not put more than 1,400 to 1,500 to the Wheels in a Customer's 3rd-Gen.
Everything with more HP that I have built has been a Back-Half Car, if not a Tube-Chassis Car.
Thanks in advance!
its basically a stock thirdgen with spohn subframes, midwest chassis torque arm cross member welded between the subframes, and a 10 point cage. Thats it lol pa racing k member, motor is front and mid plated. Nothing really special
How are you liking the hub dyno as opposed to the chassis style.
I've heard a lot of positives about the hub version.
the ease in setup and the load capabilities of the hub cant be beat imo. It was so easy to set up. Turbo cars i wouldnt bother with conventional dynojets, esp big power ones. But anything laggy would benefit.
na power could do both and be happy. But the hub is easier to get on and off. If you are tuning for long endurance like a road race or standing mile car, hub is the way to go. Literally can lock it down at any rpm at wot for however long you want
eh not sure what that was, may have tickled the rev limiter on it and had a weird spike at the end but the power curve didnt show it.
is there a link to your build? I'm running a nitrous 540 in mine atm. About to switch it all to twin turbo EFI. But really struggling to workout where to put the turbos. Seen how yours are mounted and am thinking this might be a really good option. Already having 2.25 inch runners into 4inch collector headers would save me some big headaches with manifolds.any help or advice would be appreciated.
Not really any build threads but some posts i think were made. Pretty straight forward. Basically like any na engine swap/build but turbos in back seats lol
i can say you dont want or need large piping. 4” is way big for collector. Id shrink that down if you can. Even if you have to taper it thats fine. No bigger than 3” to turbo. Maybe even 2.5” depending what you want out of it as far as power and spool time lol but alot of that can be decided in the turbo specs and housing ar
Not really any build threads but some posts i think were made. Pretty straight forward. Basically like any na engine swap/build but turbos in back seats lol
i can say you dont want or need large piping. 4” is way big for collector. Id shrink that down if you can. Even if you have to taper it thats fine. No bigger than 3” to turbo. Maybe even 2.5” depending what you want out of it as far as power and spool time lol but alot of that can be decided in the turbo specs and housing ar
Im chasing big power, im at about 1400 on spray atm to the wheels but it's so damn hard on parts. I've got a pair of 82mm turbos and planning on maybe adding a second set of injectors. Will be running methanol at the track and pump gas on the street. Yes already caged (12 point with front bars in engine bay) would you be able to share pics of how you routed to the turbos?
also I saw that you were just open in the back seat, where are you drawing air from?
I've essentially got pretty much same as what you do in ice box and stuff. Which when i saw your setup seems ive found a run around. For exhaust ove got 2 different ones already. I have a twin 4 inch system that ends with black widow neighbor haters. (Way to damn loud even compared to open pipes.) And a 3inch setup which I can cut down to use which sounds like will be the plan. How dod you brace the turbos? Just made a frame to mount supports? Sorry for all the questions, but any help/pictures would be greatly.appreciated.
(Added pic of current engine setup.)
Oh man. Lol 1400 at the tire is practically pump gas for me. Its made that on 15 psi. I run e85 but have run 93 to 12 psi. You’ll like it. Turbo motor will live along time
i can share some stuff later tonight. Maven makes mounts that the turbo bolts to. Made a frame across the seat area to mount them. Then enclosed them in a sheet metal box. Its not perfectly sealed. A lot of air comes in from under car. No issues there. It wont drain your interior oxygen supply like some ppl thought haha
exhaust is 3” down the trans tunnel area. Clearance is ok. Trans subframe area is the lowest point. Headers have 3.5”’collector on mine tapers to 3” with a transition cone. Pretty straight forward like any long tube header swapped dual exhaust thirdgens
Also theres another guy who did same thing as me but mounted his turbos up higher and has exhaust goin out the back hatch window. Lol its wild but seems to work for street race no prep stuff
Yeah ive had a turbo SBC years ago back in australia. That thing was nuts we made 1583 to the tyres out of a 383 on 36lbs. Yes we found the limits of the block, trans and rear end multiple times 🤣🤣 but it was a fun ute.
As for the 3rd gen I've ran it on 116 but with just a 600 shot on a single kit its all at its limits and is just so hard on parts. I've had all the efi and turbo stuff sitting there waiting just coukd never find any real info for manifolds that didn't involve cutting up the whole front end. Mines still not even tube front, but I am thinking of swapping out to the rack and pinion swap and tube front just for weight.
just brought some double bead locks from weld and a kit to relocate to the coil overs i have. This motor was built with the intention of big power hence its copper head gasket and o ring blocked, recently had a custom cam ground by Straub technologies suited to my whole combo with these turbos. So with now finding this information from you its time to turn the wick up and chase that number and hurt some more feelings. My last time out they told me don't come back with a bottle and no chute lol. It pulled up fine but the 165mph was the no no with no chute hahahahaha.
appreciate the information mate. This has me inspired to get it out of the trailer and in a workshop LOL.
Yes s400 base 1.26 AR from memory each turbo is rated to 1500. I'll have to find the test sheets for all the specs. When I get to my storage unit when I get home from Vegas and start moving to my acreage I'll grab it all and let you know. The ones I have were just cheap ones that I found to get it running, then was going to upgrade to billet wheel larger AR if need be but i think this setup should be good for the limits of all of what i have currently. My block is only good for around 2500 unless I grout fill it. But I still want to drive it on the street so don't really want to go down that road. I may end up building another bottom end in the future with a stronger block. But for now this will achieve the next goal.
Honestly thought i may have posted some pics of stuff but dont think i did
headers are 2.125” primary to 3.5” vband collector. Ceramic coated now no longer wrapped
see the maven mount for the turbo. Make it easy to mount the turbos. Oil drain goes thru it. Use big drains
oil supply and return are handled by remote oil system with two turbowerx exa pumps. Have a 3 way junction block to make a Back pressure style regulator to maintain oil pressure over 40 psi. 3 qrt tank for reservoir.
basically the jist of it. Cold side runs thru car beside seat and thru factory heater core hole in firewall lol.
i have a 9” rear now, old pic of 12 bolt. Had to redo the wastegate position slightly. They just dump to ground
Something I just realised my headers are a two piece deal 2 pipes come through and down the inside of the wheel well to fit the larger diameter. But I can secure that up easy enough, I might have to make another set as these have a few years on them and the metal is getting bit thin. But when I'm not worried about room for rhe turbos that's not an issue lol
Thanks for the pictures and info, ill order those pumps thats a good way to go about it. Do you run any type of oil cooler for the turbo oil?
I do. Just a b&m bar and plate cooler. I do not know what my temps are after driving around. Turbo oil pressure usually goes 60 cold and drops to 40 hot. I’ll have to measure temps. It does get fairly warm. I can still touch the reservoir tho lol so its not that hot. I may not actually need the cooler but im also not sure how much its helping since its just mounted flush to floor and likely isnt getting a ton of cross air flow
I have a bunch of oil temp gauges from a burnout car i was building so not a big deal to put a temp gauge for it. The rest ill run through the holley system and 7inch dash.
Guess now I am going to have to work out the cam sync and crankshaft sensor setup and the smart coils 🤦♂️
Build racecars they said, it's fun they said. Doesn't cost much they said.... bahahahbahahahahahthe end of the day it's about smiles per gallon....
Id be curious how slip fit two piece headers would be for a turbo application. Double slip fits seem ok from what i read but never used them. System is under backpressure so always worried it would leak. I wanted slip on collectors to make it easier to install. And remove trans without taking headers out
anyway the good thing is you will use methanol. Reallly helps spool the rear mounts. Just no comparison. 1.26 ar should be good. I have 1.1 t4 and it still laggy on street. Not terrible on track but wish it was faster responding. Wanted to switch to pulsar ball bearings turbos lol i should just go straight methanol
You've got me all excited again lol. If I wasn't in the middle of moving to the 10 acres I just brought (where there isn't a shop built yet or a house lol) I'd be pulling the car apart where it sits in the trailer 🤣. But to move I need the car trailer empty and the car drivable still. Adulting sux at tines LOL.
if these turbos are to laggy, I'll swap them out pretty quick. They weren't expensive, so not overly stressed.
Honestly thought i may have posted some pics of stuff but dont think i did
headers are 2.125” primary to 3.5” vband collector. Ceramic coated now no longer wrapped
see the maven mount for the turbo. Make it easy to mount the turbos. Oil drain goes thru it. Use big drains
oil supply and return are handled by remote oil system with two turbowerx exa pumps. Have a 3 way junction block to make a Back pressure style regulator to maintain oil pressure over 40 psi. 3 qrt tank for reservoir.
basically the jist of it. Cold side runs thru car beside seat and thru factory heater core hole in firewall lol.
i have a 9” rear now, old pic of 12 bolt. Had to redo the wastegate position slightly. They just dump to ground
I absolutely LOVE the Unconventional Design Approach to this Turbo-Charger System Installation, and all the Advantages that come along with it!
Lol thanks. I tried. I wanted to be different but it just made more sense. Given the size and weight of both the bbc and s400 turbos, i just didnt want to put all that on the nose. Also there was no way to really run piping for exhaust out the back of the car. Dual 4” under car would be impossible unless ovalized. Too expensive and heavy
i wanted it easy to work on with good plug access. It turned out good. Car is super heavy tho and bit laggy for the street fun but i still like it
Car is super heavy tho and bit laggy for the street fun but i still like it
What does yours weigh? Mines currently at just under 3200 from memory. But i have no interior at all beside the centre console and two seats. I want to do the tubular front and the rack and pinion swap at some point.
What converter you running? I have a new one on my shelf i had custom built to suit these turbos and my engine combo (sent the guy all engine specs and the cam card for the turbo cam straub designed for me.) Is that why you feel lag due to to the converter? The guy that built mine builds converters and boxes for monster trucks and dirt drag cars aswell as drag cars, can send you his info if ya like.
converter is a dusty bradford spec PTC 9.5”. Its the tighest 9.5 they make and its been doing good. Probably too loose now for my power lately but between 1500-1700 ish hp it was about right. It will flash to 3600-3700 if you mat it from idle. Closer to 3900-4000 on methanol lol
transbrake i try to set it to 4400-4600 rpm and it gets there fairly quick and within 2 secs its usually at 5-7 psi, a touch longer to get to 8-9. On methanol it was like 2 sec to get to 9-10. Much better on methonal than e85.
On the street from a roll it wont get to 12 psi til like 5500 rpm. Looser converter may help but its more of physical limitations of the turbine/housing and compressor inertia. Boost threshold is just higher than i wanted.
id like to upgrade to a dump valve and big input shaft in the trans, and get a 10” or so converter to get it abit tighter. Last outing it missed a shift because the rpm drop wasn’t enough to trigger the shifter. Alot of slip when it didnt have that problem on slightly lower power
Hmmmm interesting, wonder if the dump valve would make up for it pushing through the converter
the dump should help loosen a very tight converter when staging. It works good on my buddies cars. So i can be tight up top end when it needs it and still get on the chip to stage
07-19-2021, 12:38 PM
