SO yeah got the timing fixed.. and sure enough the knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor kicked out the SES Code. well i crawled under and the knock sensor connector was hanging by a thin wire. I touched it and it fell off.. so low and behold i am looking for a knock sensor connector if anyone has one or knows where a junk yard is so I can go get one off of another car. Thanks... Hopefully I will get her running again.. Nate

If I remember right, NAPA has them. I wouldnt go to a J/Y for one, as it's likely to be just as brittle as your old one.

Thanks i will go look there tomorrow... i am so ready to get my car out of the garage..

Glad to hear it!!

Need to bring it out and drive!

Yes!! Gas is cheap!!

Well got the knock sensor and connector changed. got the coolant temperature sensor in. and ordered an new idle air control valve that will be in monday... now I have a SES 46 code. which if i have done my research right is a power steering pressure switch. once i get one problem fixed... something else pops up.. i am getting sick and tired of this thing.. I just want it fixed!!! Do you know where this sensor is located???

I think its on the hard line near the pump itself.

oh alright i will check in the morning... If it isnt one thing its another keeping her off the streets...thanks for all the help.

Code 46 is also referenced to the VATS system. Your car doesn't have a power steering pressure switch. They did away with those in 88. 87 was the last year for that.

Oh alright... well if that is all it is then i am not gonna worry a whole lot about it right now then.. But still waiting for the idle air control valve. hopefully that fixes my idle problem.

Just make sure you calibrate it right.

What all will I need to calibrate it? And could I do it by myself?

Yeah, I forget how, but it's easy. Maybe do a search on the tpi or general board for IAC calibration....

After you install the IAC run the car to operating temperature. Once warm, shutoff the car, jumper A/B on the ALDL for field service mode. Turn the ignition on for 30 seconds to allow the IAC to reset. While the ignition is ON, disco the IAC. Pull jumpers, start motor. Adjust idle setscrew to 400 rpm for an auto, 450 for manual. Shutoff car, reconnect IAC. The ecm now has control over the idle again and will step the IAC to compensate. Personally, it never works for me and I just bump up the setscrew for 1k rpm in park, and 500-600 in drive. Hole this helps your trick a$$ out.

LOL, nice!! Thats it, man! Told you it was easy, LOL. Let us know how it goes!

SO here is an UPDATE!!! Got the IAC in. The adjustment worked. idles great! BUT... When i take it out of the garage and i went to drive it yesterday... NO Throttle response at all.. i mean i would ease into the throttle and it would start rolling. but If i try to get on it.. it backfires or misses and doesnt go until i let off the gas then it will kinda pick up but then bog back down to idle. I am really pissed at this car now but oh well. when i did the reseal on the top end I noticed that my right Head was cracked between 6 and 8 Cylinder intake runner. So i am guessing i have a wicked bad leak there losing power... Could be wrong. If you guys have any ideas Please let me know. Oh I am also gonna go get a couple new heads off a guy this weekend who pulled them right off a new crate motor to put aluminum heads on. But if you guys have any idea PLEASE HELP!!!

I had the same problem and it turned out to be my throttle position sensor. Do you have the part number from the knock sensor connector you bought? I'm going to need it soon, as I'm getting ready form my 350 vortec swap! Thanks, and good luck!

Thanks.. do you know where a junk yard is that i might be able to grab one off of? Where are the good Pick and Pulls? Also I will get that part number to you in the morning... I still have all my boxes.. keeping all the old parts. guess i am a pack rat. Anyways thanks for the help.

It never hurts to hold onto parts that may still be good. I doubt you will find one in a J/Y. Best to get new. They arent too expensive.

Well I will be heading back to NAPA then. Those guys have everything. Oh and the part number for the Knock sensor connector is FSC10.

The cracked heads are more than likely causing your problem. The symptoms are typical of a blown head gasket, which in essence does the same thing. What kind of heads are going on? You need to pay particular attention to this. If theyre 350 heads, then youre going to lose compression AND need a new prom burnt. Research the combustion chamber size and the intake runner numbers. Worse come to worse, I can see if I can find the heads from my old 305.

The guy said the heads came off a small block crate motor. I dont remember all the specs but i will re look tonight and post on here to see what everyone thinks. But he said he never ran the heads on his motor.. i guess he got the engine in and then swapped out the heads and that was that.. now looking to sell them.

It wont be absolutely necessary to re-prom. Your compression ratio will go down a little, but not too much. Advancing timing 2* will help this. Let us know what is going on with this.

Here is what the guy said about these Heads.. Will ask about compression tonight. "Pair of Complete GM Goodwrench heads with rockers and head bolts , casting number is 14102193 , fits 305 & 350 engines, valves are 1.94" / 1.5" " Will these work for my 305? Please give advice....

Those valves are a little large for a stock 305. You need to find out the combustion chamber size so that you can calculate your compression ratio.

So i shot the wires on the tps. starting reading was .56v when i would rotate slowliy to WOT it would slowly go up to 4.12. then back down when i let go.. i would pop the throttle open and it would take a sec but then spike to 4.12v. so i assume the tps is good... so that isnt the problem with the pressure.. what else could it be?? i am stumped.. still think it is the heads.. but if so need to find a good set that will work with the stock 305...

Those valves are what come with the 305. They are no different. The only difference would be the combustion chamber size, but it will work without re-tuning your computer chip. Re-tuning the chip will only help it run differently. There are many different ways of doing this. To get the car up and running, these heads will be fine. Right now I am currently driving my Firebird with a 350 block, 305 heads (that were originally from my LG4 carbed engine) and did the TPI swap and using the 305 chip. My car runs great and I don't see any reason that I would need to do anything further from what I have. The only thing I have plans for (due to how worn out the engine in the car is) is to build a new engine (bored 0.030 over) with hypereutectic flat top pistons, ported and polished heads, new roller cam (close to what I have in my car currently with a flat tappet cam). I have LT1 injectors in the car now and I am getting really good gas milage as it is for what I have in it. On a trip from Phoenix to Flagstaff, I calculated my gas milage to be about 23-25 gpm. There is no re-tuning done and I am happy with it. Although I can re-tune the chip, I don't see any reason to do so with just getting it back on the road again.

yeah you gotta have the rite knock sensor, but also i must add the knock sensor is a two piece sensor. theres the knock sensor(one for the 350, one for the 305) then theres the esc(electronic spark contoller) these typically dont go bad. If it back fires then its maybe a fuel problem, first check the first three. IGINITION, FUEL, AIR. 1.ignition....ignition control module, coil, too much free, play in dizzy shaft, broken pickup coil magnet. 2. low fuel pressure, bad regulator, leaking or bad injector, clogged fuel filter. 3. bad or grounded MAF (mass airflow sensor), o2 sensor not closing the loop, vacuum leak, dreaded egr, egr solenoid, bad check valves, pcv, clogged cataylic converter. valves need adjust> I do think that the head needs to be replaced. i personally wouldnt dont aluimium, id do stock, id build the heads myself, seems simple enough. good luck