adj. or non, more ?'s inside
08-12-2002, 07:02 PM
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adj. or non, more ?'s inside
alright guys.. i've taken the word of the wise( read: the elder's of the board
) and am going to get lca reloc. brackets for my 01 SS. I'm also sure I'm getting poly ends as it will see all of no racing(on a course, anyways
). But since I will always run factory size tires and will not be lowering the car, do i need adjustable lca's?? I think for now (money reasons) i'm going to limit myself to the brackets, lca's, and either a panhard bar or STB... (which one should i get?)
Anyhow, I've always heard good stuff about Steve and he's been awesome on this board, so I'm definately ordering from him. I guess I just wanna know for my app. will i need adj. or non adj. and should i stay with the steel or get chromoly parts? tahnks alot in advance-- josh
) and am going to get lca reloc. brackets for my 01 SS. I'm also sure I'm getting poly ends as it will see all of no racing(on a course, anyways). But since I will always run factory size tires and will not be lowering the car, do i need adjustable lca's?? I think for now (money reasons) i'm going to limit myself to the brackets, lca's, and either a panhard bar or STB... (which one should i get?)Anyhow, I've always heard good stuff about Steve and he's been awesome on this board, so I'm definately ordering from him. I guess I just wanna know for my app. will i need adj. or non adj. and should i stay with the steel or get chromoly parts? tahnks alot in advance-- josh
08-13-2002, 10:14 PM
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If you ever plan on lowering the car, get the adjustable units when combined with the relocation brackets .
If the brackets are welded in place with the stock length LCA's and car is not lowered- then you decide to lower it and want an adjustable torque arm to correct the pinion angle, the axle will rotate backwards too far because of the pivot points on the relocation brackets extend the axle higher off the pivot point.
You'll need to shorten the LCA's via the adjustable type.If not, your rear coils may rub in the cans and your diveshaft yoke will not extend into the tailshaft as far and may cause a little bit of vibration.
Just food for thought.
If the brackets are welded in place with the stock length LCA's and car is not lowered- then you decide to lower it and want an adjustable torque arm to correct the pinion angle, the axle will rotate backwards too far because of the pivot points on the relocation brackets extend the axle higher off the pivot point.
You'll need to shorten the LCA's via the adjustable type.If not, your rear coils may rub in the cans and your diveshaft yoke will not extend into the tailshaft as far and may cause a little bit of vibration.
Just food for thought.
Last edited by AFrikanGoodTime; 08-13-2002 at 10:19 PM.
08-13-2002, 10:44 PM
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ok.. i guess i'll go with the non adjustables.. i've just been really frustrated recently bc i've read so many contradicting things from person to person about how to install, who to buy from, poly vs rod ends, adj vs non adj, etc etc etc. i almost said screw it all i'll just deal with it but i guess that the people who had nightmare problems messed up on the install of the brakets or something..
one guy said he got great straight line traction but seemed to lose almost all cornering ability after installing relocation brackets, that i DONT want.
but i guess that the people who had nightmare problems messed up on the install of the brakets or something..one guy said he got great straight line traction but seemed to lose almost all cornering ability after installing relocation brackets, that i DONT want.
08-13-2002, 11:03 PM
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I bought my relocation brackets from BMR. They are the bolt-in type- but i welded them also.
The reason why I opted for the bolt-on type is because:
1) They are easy to align with the extra bracket that bolts to the shock mount.
2) they are stonger with the extra shock mount bracket
3) I'm adding coilovers, and the beefed up lower shock mount is an added safety point.(via the extra bracket offered only on the bolt-on units).
Again I bolted them in place, then welded them exactly where you would weld the weld-on units, plus I welded the bracket to the shock mount area also.
The reason why I opted for the bolt-on type is because:
1) They are easy to align with the extra bracket that bolts to the shock mount.
2) they are stonger with the extra shock mount bracket
3) I'm adding coilovers, and the beefed up lower shock mount is an added safety point.(via the extra bracket offered only on the bolt-on units).
Again I bolted them in place, then welded them exactly where you would weld the weld-on units, plus I welded the bracket to the shock mount area also.
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