89FormulaRoth

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried to install these without removing their struts?

alloy

iTrader: (16)

You do not have to completely remove your front struts to install the mounts I supply to Spohn.

Best way is to jack the car up under the frame somewhere a little( don't need to lift the wheel off the ground) just take a little weight off the one front wheel you are working on. Then remove the stock mount, and install my mounts. If the top of the strut is too far up to get the mount in place jack the car up a little. It doesn't take more than 10-15 minutes per side.

You definately need to have the front end aligned after installing the mounts.

89FormulaRoth

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Alloy! That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I had to disconnect my air compressor last week and now I don't have any way to remove the strut to knuckle bolts according to Steve's instructions. (Unless I misunderstood them) Those mounts are beautiful, by the way. Really top notch.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Well thank you for the compliment!

If you are carefull, you can install the mounts without removing the struts, but if you don't use a jack you have the weight of the car on the spindles and struts and you won't be able to move them into place. It's kind of a balancing act, but easily do-able.

Good luck and if you have any other questions just let me or Steve know.

CbrasTsteLkChk

So you can just jack the car up a bit and install the strut brace no problem?

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

You're talking about 2 different things: an STB and Alloy's upper strut mounts. The STB can be installed with the car on the ground as normal.


Ed

CbrasTsteLkChk

Oh my bad, read a little too quickly there.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

a little off topic but you MUST install a STB with the car firmly on level ground. AS for the strut mounts, I am gonna take a peak at those now.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

wow nice piece Alloy. What is the performance gain with these over the stock ones though? Do yo uhave any other pics of them from underneath?

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Thanks again for the compliments guys!

The benefts are a replaceable top bearing that is teflon lined, taller to prevent strut bottoming with lowered cars, more ridgid mount with less deflection that the stock one, more camber adjustment, and lets not forget the "coolness" factor (as stated by Cheezx)

By bottom pic do you mean the bottom of the mount itself? If so then here's a pic of the bottom of the parts.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Here's a close up pic of one of the mounts I made for my car. Shows a little more detail.

I resized it down to fit here. If you want the high res copy of this pic, just let me know.

wyclefsirocz

how much, also do these interfere with a STB? if so what kind should i look into getting.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

They don't interfere with an STB at all. They have the same foot print as the stock mounts do, so no interfrence issues at all that I know of.

My STB is a BMR 3 point.

The mounts are $350 per set.

89FormulaRoth

iTrader: (1)

Alloy, I changed the mounts out last night and you were absolutely right. It was easy! The only thing that took me some time was painting the bottom side of the mount. Working with Navy aircraft for a living, I've seen how bad aluminum can exfoliate when it's bare and unnoticed. I've got to say it again, those mounts are a great product! Thanks to you and thanks to Steve. :yourock: There's just one thing that I'm wondering about, though. Why does Steve's instructions say to remove the strut? Oh, yeah, and for everybody: I still am having problems with my steering. It doesn't seem to have play, but I'm getting a clunk when I turn the wheel or drive onto ramps.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I'm very glad to hear you like the mounts and the install went easily for you. I'm not sure why Steve's instruction say to remove the mounts. Probably safety concerns I guess, and I totally agree with his concerns for safety. Better to error on the safe side so no one gets hurt. Getting hurt is no fun.

Boy, the front end noise could be many things. Starting with the a-arm bushings being worn and the rubber hardened, ball joints making noise, tie rods, center link, idler arm, etc. Maybe even steering box mounting point cracked. Check around the steering box with a fine tooth comb looking for cracks there. A wonder bar is mandatory with a 3rd gen with any type of wide tires or performance driving.

If you know a good shop, take it in and have them look it over for you. If they think you will be spending money on having your front end rebuilt, they will break their back looking for things to replace. But, don't let them take you for a ride. If you can't see that the part they say is bad really is bad with your own eyes, get a second opinion.

My front end clunks, and I've got everything new in it. I'm thinking it's because I have the DAL bushings in my a-arms and everything is so tight on my car. Nothing is loose or steering box mounting point isn't cracked, and have had a wonder bar on the car since it was new. So, no big for me.

Again, thanks for the compliments on the mounts!