TTA850

I was under the impression that on a torque arm, like a ladder bar, the instant center is fixed at the point at which the two bars meet(except on the spohn units I've seen as it looks like the two bars would never meet). On a 4 link you can change the instant center because the two bars never meet and the instant center is the point where the two bars would theoreticly meet if they were extended.

So you'd only be able to adjust pinion angle, please correct me if I'm wrong but thats the way I understood it to work.

Steve

MTPFI-MAF

On the adjustable ones you can change your IC by lengenthing or shortning the bar and angle by adjusting the Ends. Or so is my understanding. Also for pinion angle. streetcars cant run with out the right pinion angle for they would go through U-joints quite often. Where a drag only car could. Because they aren't driven as many miles as a daily driver.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I'm kinda following you.

Like stated the nice thing about aftermarkets is some mount off the trans tunnel bracing or driveshaft tunnel area of the car, which takes pressure off you're transmission mount.

The adjustables ones just go one step further and let you adjust your pinion angle for you're chassis and driving.

Nice things about the Spohn's is you have an option to put a rod end on the front of it. I have one on mine. Sure people say there loud there not that bad you can't hardly hear them unless you're on the gas or on a heavy downshift. Then it rattles a little bit. Sure they wear but 20 bucks or so for a rod end every 2 to 3 years isn't that bad in my opinion either.

V6camaroman

i was just on edelbrocks web site looking at the non adjustable torque arm for my maro (in sig). at summit they only want $169.99 for it. i think that is a great deal. my only ques is it says it only works on cars that have the torque arm lips facing away form the driveshaft from factory. i believe mine are facing towards the driveshaft. if i order this peice #5280 will it work on my car?

25THRSS

just change the mount

91formulaSS

For people w/ Spohn Adj. T/A. Did you go with the poly or rod-end mount, and why? Does bind play a factor like it does on the LCA. I want to hear the pros and cons. My car is for the street and too many rod-ends in my suspension don't sound appealing.

Thanks in advance

Apeiron

If it doesn't fit I think you can just change the torque arm bushing.

CamaroMike

I have a Random Technology Torque arm and love it! Easiest install on the car!

mike graycar

iTrader: (2)

better look over on the aftermarket product review, there is a problem with the edelbrock torque arm allready.

Breazlan

iTrader: (1)

What is wrong with the stock torque arm? I am assuming flexing. If that is it, where does the flex happen?

10.90streetcar

Nothing. Heres a pic of my ride with the stock T/A.



VIDEO CHIC

Jer82Z28

The only thing wrong I can see with the stock TA is that it's mounted on the transmission tail shaft with a lame rubber bushing.
all that equals mega movement of the TA under accel/deccel

Idealy a car should have a solid mounted TA attached to the crossmember I would think.

330hp_91RS

Killer launch man, but many will say you are flirting with disaster having that much stress on the tailshaft.

BMR says anything that is still mounted to the tailshaft should not be used on a car running 11's or faster.

I'd say by the looks of that launch (and your screen name) you are running faster.


BTW: GUYS>>>> Jegs just released a fully adjustable version of their torque arm!!!

I'm getting one for my 4th gen, I'll let you guys know how it goes!!!

Check it out: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...07&prmenbr=361

10.90streetcar

Just alittle. ,10.38 @130 with a 1.38 60ft .

VIDEO CHIC

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

you can solid mount the stock arm by drilling throug hthe mount and arm and putting a grade 8 bolt through it. I did this. (Tom400CFI's idea)

I eventually got a new arm, im running the global west unit that is quite a bit shorter than stock. I cant say that I could tell a whole lot of difference. My 60 foot times didnt tell me anything since wheelhop was still a problem.

I think the biggest benefit to it is the adjustability and the fact that it is shorter moving the I.C. further rearward. But to tell you the truth i think the stock arm with the bolt through it trick should be enough for most people

TKOPerformance

I really don't think you want to drill through the stock torque arm mount and bolt it solid. This will cause serious binding in the suspension. The torque arm needs to be able to move fore and aft as the suspension cycles as well and up and down. That's why the factory mount is designed the way it is. That's also why if you look at a Spohn or other good torque arm they have a provision for fore and aft movement built into the arm, which allows for a solid front mount without suspension bind.

Breazlan

iTrader: (1)

There is more to it than just a drilled hole. It involves creating a horizontalish slot in the torque arm to allow for movement as you are refering to. I imagine too you would need to check the bolt and slot once in awhile for wear.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

obviously i didnt just make a hole without considering the fact that there may be some binding. I elongated it.

My car hits hard enough off the line to (destroy a 10 bolt and break a few axle shafts. The stock torque arm was no worse for wear with the bolt through it trick

i also think the talk of binding and fore - aft movement are greately exaggerated. Id wager that the thing hardly moves fore and aft at all and that just drilling a hole without slotting it would probably not do a negative thing to the suspension.

TKOPerformance

If you slot the hole then it should work fairly well. You need to be sure to give full details about mods like that though, because the last thing any of us wants if for some noob to just drill a hole through everything and then have his rear suspension binding up.

Granted, the amount of fore/aft movement insn't much, but keep in mind that all suspension components travel in an arc. It only takes a fraction of an inch to create a bind condition.

Jer82Z28

If you didn't slot your hole in your ta you would easily break your tailshaft into peices.

The TA needs to not only move for and aft, but it also must twist a bit as your rear reacts to uneven road conditions when one tire lifts more than the other over bumps.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

we are talking about slotting it length wise not up and down. the metal is like 1/8th inch thick, its not gonna shatter your tailshaft if the left tire comes up higher than the right or vice versa. Even if the metal was much thicker the torque arm would flex way before you broke the tailshaft.

All I know is i did it and I have an exploded ten bolt to prove it took a beating and was no worse than the day I did it when I took it off and I didnt slot it much

TKOPerformance

Actually, keeping it from twisting is desirable if you think about it. It would make the torque arm act as a sort of second anti-roll bar. It would seem to me that a set up like that would plant the tires harder in a turn. Obviously this is all just conjecture, but the theory is solid.

mike graycar

iTrader: (2)

anybody got the Edelbrock adjustable arm yet?

91formulaSS

Somebody on this board broke one. check the "Vendor Review Board".

mike graycar

iTrader: (2)

I saw that, was hoping it was just a fluke because the price is right. I think they are still on national backorder though, Mike

mike graycar

iTrader: (2)

Well, now it looks like I'm gonna go with the BMR. Thunder racing is running a sale on the after market product review board.

330hp_91RS

I'd get a shortened spohn unit if I were you.

Spend the extra cash, it'll be worth it. I wish I did, hindsight is 20/20.

CamaroMike

Random Technologies kicks butt! :lala:

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...ain2.asp?cat=G

Click on suspension for the link to the torque arm, then scroll down to Random Technologies.

25THRSS

How are you gonna shorten the spohn unit? It's made to take place of the stock crossmember. You really can't move it.

AFatHippo

ive had the jegster torque arm for a while. it is a pretty high quality piece for the price but i probably wouldnt recommend it. the installation is a pain in the ***. it claims to fit all '82-2002 fbodies, but they forgot to mention it might be a little more work for some years. heres a summarization of the installation:
lift the carpet, take out the seats. then you have take out the console. jack up the car and take out the driveshaft. set the mounting bracket in place (i didnt have instructions, but it has to be in exactly the right place or youll run into problems....i hope the instructions clarified where to put it) and drill the holes and bolt it in. some of the holes can be pretty tricky with the exhaust in the way, and getting some of the bolts in are a pain too. then, 5/8" bolts are sent to bolt the torque arm in on the rear end. but wait, the hole in the rear end is only 1/2"...so you have to drill out the hole to 5/8", but to get a drill in there you pretty much have to drop the whole rear end. then, after you get the bolts in there you realize the bolts they provided are too short. so, youll have to go buy a couple longer bolts. and finally you bolt the torque arm in, get the rear end back in, put the driveshaft back in, get the console back in, get the carpet and seats in and the interior panels screwed in, and finally you are done. it does perform very well for the price, but before you buy it you should just know what youre getting into. my torque arm had been modified to have a -4 degrees pinion angle, so i dont know how much that helped compared to a normal jegster torque arm.

TTA850

Shame you had problems, I've installed several of them on various cars and never had an issue. Yeah the front seats have to come out to lift the rug, though I've always left the console in place. Drilling the holes can take a while because of the amount of bolts there are, but an angle drill and good bit make the job much easier. Also I've always reused the stock through bolts for where the torque arm mounts to the rear end, except for my 12 bolt which required 4 bolts.

Just figured I'd give my take on the installation.

Steve

330hp_91RS

from the forward mounting point to the mounting point on the rearend the Spohn unit that replaces the crossmember is shorter than any unit that uses the stock tailshaft mount.

Spohn also makes a torque arm that mounts as the stocker does, which is the same length as the stocker, and still puts stress on the tailshaft.

I was just saying to get the better one.

I also have a Jegster, the new adjustable one. Install was a PITA, but it hooks much better.

OneBadZ4U

I twisted my torque arm last weekend. I just purchaced a spohn adj arm that mounts with a trans cross member. I even got the driveshaft loop. I figured in for a penny, in for a pound. Anybody can spend as they little money as they can buying crap. Me I'll pay more so I don't have to do it twice. Everyone on this board spoke so highly of their design. The quality of their product is in the testimony of their customers.

OneBadZ4U

Well, I got the Arm Friday June 18th. It took Five weeks!! Anyway, the part looks great. I installed it and wouldn't you know MY LS1 Driveshaft rubbed. I'll be honest. The driveshaft loop did not appear to be welded in the proper location. The loop was clearly visible looking under the car on the ground. The loop will hit every speed bump. I called Spohn. To be honest again, they were very little help. They acted as if there was nothing wrong with the part. Safe to say, I did more research on the boards and found I was not alone with this problem. I finally put the car back up in the air and took a screw jack with a piece of wood on top and bent the loop into its proper location. Everything is ok now and I feel good again. I did not damage the powder coating in any maner, that was my biggest concern. All in All I am happy, I just wish Sphon took a little more proactive aproach to problems encountered.

91formulaSS

got pics?

OneBadZ4U

Sorry, No pictures. I already fixed the problem. If you like I could take pictures of what it looks like now. It would be a could be a coulpe days.

KagA152

iTrader: (5)

i ended up getting the spohn, yeah it took awhile, but its a quality product for the most part. i was also very close to rubbing with my ls1 driveshaft. if the weights were any further forward, they would hit the loop. ill take a pic before i mess with anything. maybe ill try what you did badz

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Just installed my Jegster adjustable last night too. I was at an advantage since this was an entire new drivetrain waiting on the torque arm so I could measure for a driveshaft.

Install was tedious, especially alone "I backed out of my softball game to work on the car, so my buddies were there:

Worst part was removing the seats/console-non stock mind you, and I had to slit my new carpet further back to get at all the bolts that did'nt come supplied either so I had to make a trip to the store for 14 grade 8 3/8"x1" bolts.

Once I got it into position and 2 bolts started it did'nt go bad. With the Mosier Ford 9" I ran into problems of the torque arm/diff mount hitting the floor board where the rear seat cushion resides. Had to remove the driver side seat belt bracket on the tranny tunnel and patch the hole and then beat the snot out of it to clear the brackets that bolt to the rear end housing. This is probably not the case with the stock 10 bolts, but with this rear I had troubles.

Wont have any numbers till next weekend, but first time out tonightm felt really good

Just went by some of you other drag strip guys that posted your 60's with the standard jegs torque arm, but I wanted the pinion to be adjustable, so I hope it pays off.

Kinda bummed it took up space in my tunnel the 3" pipes were supposed to go down, have to over come that obsticle next

"High performance...where everything costs twice as much and nothing fits"

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, old thread and I was searching for something else but I just couldn’t leave this like this.

lengthening and shortening the thing has no effect on IC, for that matter, the IC of a sliding link TA is not the front pivot since it slides (it would be for a traditional TA), but it a point where a line drawn through the sliding link perpendicular to the arm crosses the line drawn through the LCA’s pivot points.

And as far as all the claims that whatever works well because it hits hard enough to have broken a few sets of gears… in the last few years I’ve broken 6 sets of gears, 2 axles, at least 3 or 4 posi’s (lost count there, I’ve rebuilt them a few times…) in assorted 10 bolts and 9 bolts, all with a stock TA and at best drag radials. So it’s really not that big a deal that your “superior design” has broken a couple of sets…