Why 2 piece rotors
#1
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Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
Engine: H.O. 305 5.0L;L69
Transmission: T-5; Axle Ratio 3.73
Why 2 piece rotors
What is the benifit of 2 piece rotors over the solid 1 piece rotor?
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
From what I understand, mainly lighter weight as the hat is usually thinner than a cast piece. I can't justify the cost for myself though, as they will be higher than a stock one piece part.
Ed
Ed
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Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Decreased rotating mass, better heat transfer, and (as a convenience) you don't have to mess with the bearings at every rotor change.
#4
Originally posted by Matthew91-Z28
Decreased rotating mass, better heat transfer, and (as a convenience) you don't have to mess with the bearings at every rotor change.
Decreased rotating mass, better heat transfer, and (as a convenience) you don't have to mess with the bearings at every rotor change.
And....the look kool as FCKU!
Tommy
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by Matthew91-Z28
you don't have to mess with the bearings at every rotor change.
you don't have to mess with the bearings at every rotor change.
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Two piece rotors are wire tied together after bolting. Not something you take apart for turning your rotors- besides, the entire hat/hub assembly is needed to turn them (not just the rotor of a 2pc hat/hub & rotor assembly). So for the average street car that runs these, you will still have to repack the wheel bearings at normal intervals.
The are lighter weight ususally with an aluminium hat and iron rotor. And it does disapate heat much better.
Two pc rotors also have a large variety of options as for straight or curved vanes, how many vanes, and even the option to switch to wider rotors if called for(via caliper pad shims, or switching to wider calipers) based on track conditions. You want to run the lightest weight combo that works adequate for the days function.
Oh yes, Cost is much less for replacement because you only have to replace the rotor (not the hat or the hub based on style).
The are lighter weight ususally with an aluminium hat and iron rotor. And it does disapate heat much better.
Two pc rotors also have a large variety of options as for straight or curved vanes, how many vanes, and even the option to switch to wider rotors if called for(via caliper pad shims, or switching to wider calipers) based on track conditions. You want to run the lightest weight combo that works adequate for the days function.
Oh yes, Cost is much less for replacement because you only have to replace the rotor (not the hat or the hub based on style).
Last edited by vsixtoy; 05-30-2004 at 12:06 PM.
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
If the hubs are needed to turn the rotors, how do you expect people to turn your rear rotors ? gonna take your axle out and wheel it to them ?
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by Z28*****
If the hubs are needed to turn the rotors, how do you expect people to turn your rear rotors ? gonna take your axle out and wheel it to them ?
If the hubs are needed to turn the rotors, how do you expect people to turn your rear rotors ? gonna take your axle out and wheel it to them ?
Of course if you have hats then you don't need the hubs. Do you understand what is meant by hub style? If not I will get a picture for you.
Edit: I understand what you are refering to- But when you have a front "hatstyle" 2pc rotor you still need a Hub. I am not refering to taking a hat and hub when it comes to that "hatstyle" 2pc rotor.
In other words:
Front "hat style"- you have a hat, rotor and hub. You would turn the hat and rotor assembly only-no need for hub.
Front "hub style"- The hub IS the hat in one unit. The 2pc rotor bolts directly to the hub. Meaning hub is piece #1, and the rotor is piece #2
Last edited by vsixtoy; 05-30-2004 at 04:45 PM.
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
You stated that for an average road car you'd still have to repack the bearings when taking them off, which you wouldnt, its just the same as anything else with a 2 piece setup after installing them on the fronts of our cars.
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by Z28*****
You stated that for an average road car you'd still have to repack the bearings when taking them off, which you wouldnt, its just the same as anything else with a 2 piece setup after installing them on the fronts of our cars.
You stated that for an average road car you'd still have to repack the bearings when taking them off, which you wouldnt, its just the same as anything else with a 2 piece setup after installing them on the fronts of our cars.
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Z28*****, this is hub style. http://www.wilwood.com/products/kits.../hdfbk_big.jpg
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Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
Engine: H.O. 305 5.0L;L69
Transmission: T-5; Axle Ratio 3.73
Thanks for that info that helps a lot. What does a hat style look like though?
#14
I understand the advantages of the two piece rotors, but what are the disadvantages other than the initial cost?
I'm currently looking into brake upgrades and have spoke to the various people offering the different kits. At the moment, Ed's(ebmiller88) kits are looking the best value and the most likely for purchase. However, I'm tempted by the Spohn Wilwood set-up which is made by Dan (Alloy). However, this would need to be a two-piece set-up to get it under the GTA wheels. And would add even more money to the cost of an already expensive kit. What do you guys think I should do?
I'm currently looking into brake upgrades and have spoke to the various people offering the different kits. At the moment, Ed's(ebmiller88) kits are looking the best value and the most likely for purchase. However, I'm tempted by the Spohn Wilwood set-up which is made by Dan (Alloy). However, this would need to be a two-piece set-up to get it under the GTA wheels. And would add even more money to the cost of an already expensive kit. What do you guys think I should do?
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by ksrammstein
Thanks for that info that helps a lot. What does a hat style look like though?
Thanks for that info that helps a lot. What does a hat style look like though?
They mount onto a hub like this- (or like the Spohn bigbrake kit, But that has 1pc rotors.
DrG, Its your call- its all how much you want to spend and how much you feel yoou need the extra options based on where you drive(aka how hard you heat them)
Last edited by vsixtoy; 05-31-2004 at 08:09 PM.
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Engine: sbc 350
The purpose of a separate rotor hat is:
the same rotor (or group of rotors) , with a cetain 'hat hole pattern', will fit lots of hats, the 'lots of rotor hats' will
fit lots of different cars.
Lots of combinations.
the same rotor (or group of rotors) , with a cetain 'hat hole pattern', will fit lots of hats, the 'lots of rotor hats' will
fit lots of different cars.
Lots of combinations.
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by contactpatch
The purpose of a separate rotor hat is:
the same rotor (or group of rotors) , with a cetain 'hat hole pattern', will fit lots of hats, the 'lots of rotor hats' will
fit lots of different cars.
Lots of combinations.
The purpose of a separate rotor hat is:
the same rotor (or group of rotors) , with a cetain 'hat hole pattern', will fit lots of hats, the 'lots of rotor hats' will
fit lots of different cars.
Lots of combinations.
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