MrDude_1

and they use a actual bearing... no rubber bushings.

anyone tried them?



http://www.hotpart.com/index.php?p=show&id=38

thanks to miacamaro305 for pointing out this part to me

vsixtoy

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=257148

KenV

Those bearing housings look familiar. I have J&M Mustang C/C plates, and with a couple thousand miles with coilovers, everything seems fine. Our roads are awful so these seem well-tested. My only concern with the Camaro plates is with plate size, as those plates span more distance between bolt locations than do the Mustang plates. I have no hard data with which to back up this idea, and may be biased from looking at the significantly-smaller Mustang plates. Hopefully we can see a post with real-world experience, especially since I could be in the market soon. heh

K

KenV

I guess I should hit "Refresh" if I leave the room for a while... Looks like our answers will be there.

K

Edit: Thanks Dean. Good info in the other thread btw.

MrDude_1

lol, i totally missed the other topic.

hotpart

If you look close these parts come with spacers to raise the top plate off of the strut tower itself. Depending on how low your vehicle is will determine how high off the strut tower you raise the main plate.

Dewey316

those spacers scare me, especialy since the largest forces these mounts will see are in rebound.

MrDude_1

i woudlnt be worried about them.
the spacers are stronger then the sheetmetal they bolt to.. lol.

it would be alot more trick if they used a solid CNC 1 piece spacer though.

Dewey316

its not the spacer itself, it is the mount only being supported by those small points. that and the reduced travel due to the design on the mount, but that was brought up already in the other thread.

hotpart

Most of the force will be in jounce and not rebound. The whole idea of the spacers is to allow you to raise and lower the plate so you can adjust your strut travel depending on your setup. Raising the plate alone does not gain you suspension travel with the location of the factory bump stop. These plates will actually allow you to trim the bump stops and change the spacing of the plate to accommodate the extra suspension travel. The purpose of the adjustability is to allow you to keep the plate as low as possible to maintain rebound travel which will help to keep the inside tire from lifting off the ground on corner exit as well as drag racing applications.

vsixtoy

Jounce (or compression) force is directed mostly to the spring can in the frame. The strut has little compression force.

You must be the guy pedaling these goods with that line of crap. Rebound force is much higher on performance struts. Especially my Camaro. I have wiped out two very expensive sets of upper end Aurora bearing because of very high rebound force. You need to get your facts staight

(while we are on the subject of facts-) QUOTE,"inside wheel will lift off the ground if rebound travel isn't at a maximum setting so you only space the mounts up as high as you need to if any?"

I tell you what partner- Lets all go out to our garages and do a simple test. Jack up any 3rd gen f-body (stock, or built- doesn't matter) on just one side of the vehicle just before the front tire on that side comes off the ground- does any car lean that badly to render the strut rebound to ground out? Also now take into acount the other side (outside) of the car will be compressed through a turn making this "lean even more dramatic before the tire leaves the ground.

Sorry about the hard facts- but don't come around here selling a bill of goods with a non-scientific sales pitch.

Dean

Dewey316

That statement alone would keep me from buying a part of yours. you are obviously a suspension expert. and these were obviously extensivly tested knowing the forces applied to them. Thank you for proving my point.

vsixtoy

I also want to add-

With the factory bumpstop in place and these mounts mounted flat (no spcaers) against the strut tower ( properly installed), the strunt will ground out against them before the bumpstop will stop the travel. The bumpstop will hit first, but the compression of the bumpstop before it limits the travel is not enough clearance on these mounts. Spacers are not safe, the plates will bend.

hotpart

You are correct, with the camber plate mounted directly on the strut tower the strut will bottom on the plate. This is NOT the correct way to mount these plates. They where designed to be mounted above the strut tower not directly on them. They were also designed to be height adjustable so you can raise or lower them for your particular application and not just stuck with a set strut bearing height. If they are properly installed you will not bottom the strut on these plates. I hope this helps clear things up for you. As for the bending issue we designed these for the American Iron and Camaro/Mustang Challenge and have not had any plates to date bend on these race cars. They will most certainly sustain higher loads than any street car will ever see.

91banditt2

iTrader: (1)

I have some questions for Hotpart

how long are those studs?
how much taller are these over stock 1/2" 3/4" 1" 1 1/4"?
how thick are the strut plates?
does the bearing block (what the strut mounts to) get sandwhiched between the strut tower and the plate or does it tighten to the plate
whats the cost of replacement bearings?

Dewey316

I know that at least the #37 CMC car is running your plates, I am not sure who elses. Guess what, the owner has made a comment as to the 'beefy' build on the ones I am running in comparison. I myself am just not convinced as to the strength of the mounts having pressure localized at the mounting points like you do. that followed by a comment about you thinking that more force is applied in jounce, makes me even more leary.

And some people in this thread have a little more than just 'street cars'

vsixtoy

Hot parts, Your wrong in your assumption again about racecars being more demanding. Cornering 'g's against the alignment bolts slipping or moving? "yes", but shock forces from road imperfections? "No". Daily driving a car on the street is much much more demanding and solid suspension parts than any race track. Race tracks are very smooth and bump/dip free (No potholes, gutter valleys across intersections, railroad Xings, driveways, badly paved asphalt transitions onto concrete bridges, etc) unlike hazards you will daily and constantly meet on surface streets. Street cars are also more heavy than striped down racecars and carry more roll weight.
I run my Camaro occationally for fun on Calif speedway Roadrace course (2.8 mile course) and the car's suspension is smooth as can be compared to any regular surface street. And for the record, If I stripped my upper roll weight and lightened this car to race weight, I would have to reduce my springs and damper settings- I am much stiffer than a lightweight racecar to compensate for the "creature comforts". Believe me when I say- give me a set an I WILL bend them from having to space them.

DM91RS

The last set that I seen on an SCCA American Sedan racer was the full footprint pattern of the assy. Heavy yes! Weak no....

I agree small diameter spacers questionable. I would want the load spread out as much as possible...not less.

DM

nape

iTrader: (1)

I just ran these on my car for a track day and they performed well.

The do have a couple gripes though.

1. The driver's side mount only allows you to get -.5* camber before the plate hits the master cylinder with both spacers under the plate. The fix to this is to put one spacer under the shock tower to drop the alignment bolts and one on top to space the plate off the shock tower. You lose 1/2" of travel though.

2. The alignment bolts that come through the strut tower aren't threaded all the way. This requires you to use the method above rather then just removing one spacer per bolt.

I'm going to cut up the driver's side plate so I can get the 1/2" of strut travel back on that side, but I'm getting sick of dicking around with it. The GC ones are more expensive, but by the time I'm done I'll probably have 4+ hours in screwing with these brackets. You can't count your time when building a race car, but it sure would've been nice to use those hours to thrash on something else.

Build quality on these, however, is top notch. I didn't cut myself on the plates once and they actually came with all the necessary parts. That's more then can be said for most vendors.