AutoX86Z28

for you people with cages, is there any ways you can still use or have people sit in the back seats?

for my street/ daily driver that will be takin to the track a lot i was thinking about an 8 point. which kit is the best to go with ?

what about the crank windows and door handles, IIRC i remember seeing a kit that allows you to access the handles and windows, anybody have this kit or a link to a site about it.

i am a learning welder and was wondering if i would be capable of welding in a cage, and also which size welder will be suffiecient enough for this modification.

ps in the future i will like to run SFCs also if that has any effect on any of this at all.

shawnc16

hey you are in luck because i just bought an S&W 8 point cage from spohn. they give you the option of clearing the doorhandles. (extra 40 bucks). i plan on gettin it in there pretty soon but im sure the backseats are basically useless after its in there, unless your passenger has no legs.

AutoX86Z28

thanks for replying, i was looking at spohns cage and it seems like a good setup, i figured the back seats would be bascially useless but i just thought i would ask anyways.

keep me updated

shawnc16

no problem, The best part is that i also ordered a swing out kit from Comp. Engineering and i just bought one for the passenger side, didnt wanna hear any complaints about not being able to get in.

12secformula

Hey guys, I don't mean to hi-jack the post. But I was just curious how much a a 6-8 pt cage weighs. I am interested in getting one, but I don't want to add alot of weight.

AlkyIROC

When I installed my 6 point roll bar I weighed all the pieces first. It adds about 70 pounds. A 6/8 point roll bar has to be made with 1-3/4" MS. If you go with CM, it still has to be 1-3/4" but the wall thickness is thinner. A full cage can be made with thinner material. The weight saving is very little plus with CM, it must be TIG welded. MS can be TIG or MIG welded. No gas welding. No stick welding. Mig wire must be solid with gas. No flux wire.

When I installed my full cage I never weighed anything. I cut out the old 6 point roll bar and installed the 1-5/8" tubing full cage. Not all the bars are 1-5/8. Many of the extra bars required are only 1-1/4". My guess is I added 30-50 pounds with the roll cage compared to the roll bar so guess that a full cage will add about 150 - 175 pounds to the car depending on how many points and extra bars it has.


As for getting into the rear seats, forget it. Yank out the rear seats and carpet over the bare area. The weight saving will help offset the weight of the bars.

Why would anyone want to the back of a car with a full cage anyway? I don't even climb into the back of mine unless I'm doing some modifications or fabrication work.

I welded in my full cage with a good quality 110v mig welder. Some of the welds aren't pretty but they'll hold together and have no problem passing tech. A 220v welder will get much better heat penetration. I don't know if the welds on my cage will pass a chassis certification but I don't need one until I hit 8.49 in the 1/4 under IHRA rules.