Cleotiz

So i made the stupid descision to buy someone else their incomplete Camaro project, a couple of years ago.
This car dident move (on its own) for about 20 years and its about time it did.
I started on it, right after i bought it, but i ran into a couple of unforeseen problems mostly caused by some weird descisions by the previous owner.

I guess in can't really complain, since the price i paid for it was (in my eyes) a joke and the guy dat started the project was not able to finish it and just couldent get himself to part it out.

Anyways, the reason i am telling this is because i dont want you guys to be fed up with my stupid questions (which i am certainly going to ask)
Maybe it wil shed some light on things that would otherwise seem stupid to you or at least difficult to understand.

What i thought i bought (what the previous owner told me and what is in the papers):
a 1984 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 coupe, with a revised 5.0 litre carburated enigine, its stock transmission replaced with a TH700r4.
I could not test run the car since it was almost completely taken apart, but i was assured that "all the parts to completely assemble it were there"

What i actually bought: A Camaro RS with its 2.8 litre injection motor replaced with a 5.0 litre carburated engine, its stock transmission replaced with a TH700R4 but with all the original wiring intact.
I guess about 20% of the parts i need to assemble it, missing

I guess most of the questions ill be asking are going to be wiring, thats why i started the thread here.
So, tech guys, please be patient

Regards, Cleotiz

RedLeader289

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to TGO!! sounds like it'll be quite the project

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Welcome! Just be sure to take lots of pics and document what you do. Helps a bunch when it comes time to rebuild.

Cleotiz

Thanks a lot guys!

Here allready my first question, together with some pictures.

I got my hands on a complete wiring harness from a 3rd gen Camaro or Firebird from an unknown year.
By the looks of it though, it has the connector on it that seems to fit into my th700, which means when it all works out, it will have a working lock up option

A lot of diffrend connectors i am not so sure of though, i either dont recognise them or they simply were not there on the old harness.

My question:
Would someone with a carburated engine and the original engine bay wiring please be so kind as to make a couple of pictures where the wiring harness should route to?
It looks like there is no way that i will get the th700 connector anywhere near its socket without lengthening the wires for example.
I also dont want to burn the harness by putting it too close to the exhaust.

DonW

What kind of carb and intake is on it now and is this the carb and intake you will be using?
Reason I'm asking is because if someone put a Holley or Edelbrock carb on it with anything other than the factory intake, and you are going to reuse these parts, then you might as well forget running a new wiring harness because You wont be needing it.
Most guys who install aftermarket intake and carbs will use aftermarket oil, water, and temp gauges.
As for the torque converter lock-up, its not essential unless you are taking the car on long road trips. Even then your tranny cooler cools it pretty well and works fine unless you want to do 90mph the whole length of the trip. An aftermarket lock-up kit is about $50 bucks and does the job, and is something you could do later after everything else is done.
Along with this kind of set-up, would also include a non CC distributer ($40 will get you a nice one from Skip White Performance) because you cant use the stock CC one as the computer on these cars controls the advance of the distributer. Aftermarket mechanical/vacuum advance distributer works well in this scenario.
Other than those things, if it is a Holley or Edelbrock carb, make sure you get the geometry correcting bracket that mounts to the carb to correctly control the 700R4, otherwise it will burn out fast.
If you have the stock rochester carb and stock intake, then you will also be needing the stock ECM for the 305 V8 since one was swapped into it. I have one if you need it. Mine is from an 83 carbed Z28.

Cleotiz

Thanks!

Here's a couple of pictures.
The Carb is a Quadrajet, this is original? (i dont know iff all the pieces are there and it seems they dident mount it to the intake properly)
The CC distributor is the thing in the second picture, right?
It is a Delco Remy which would also indicate it is original?
Also the intake looks like it is the one that is originally on there.

You are right about the bracket though, iff you mean the one thats fits on the carburator, the transmission cable goes in there, the throttle and the cruise control cable.
I would be very thankfull iff you are willing to ship me some parts!
I bought these parts a while ago on ebay from a company that parts out cars but i never recieved them

I'm sorry iff sometimes i dont understand "obvious" stuff, its partially because im pretty much a noob at some of this stuff, but its also because i dont speak English as my native language.
Thanks for your help so far!

Regards, Cleotiz

Cleotiz

This also has me puzzled a little.
These wires all come out the harness at the same place, but it seems to me a part should be connected to the positive battery terminal and a few others should be on the starter (when i connect the battery to a few of the red wires and i turn the key, the purple wire becomes hot.

Thx for your input so far, guys!

89RsPower!

Did you ever get anywhere with this? From what I can see in the pictures you really won't need to change the harness since there is nothing computer controlled as far as I can see.. from the looks of it you have a bare bones engine swap, you wont be needing most of the current harness, personally I'd figure out what wires/connectors I need and I'd get rid of the ones that no longer serve a purpose. That being said you need to know the emissions/inspection laws in your state (luckily in my state the age of the car would make it emissions exempt, and due to budget cuts safety checks are no longer required for any vehicle so there would be no need to worry about passing any form of inspection, you will need to check your states requirements) That being said I hope that your state doesn't require emissions inspection because from what I can see all of the emissions related items are missing. Hopefully your state doesn't require emissions inspections, if that's the case you should be able to get it running fairly easy. Since the car was fuel injected you should have an in tank electric fuel pump, you will need to get a return style fuel pressure regulator. I cant tell where your fuel lines are from the picture and it's been quite a few years since I did my first swap, but it was basically exactly what you are going to be doing except I was dealing with an 89, IIRC both the pressure and return lines were on the drivers side of the engine bay. You will want to mount your regulator somewhere safe, I mounted my bracket and regulator to the drivers side strut tower. From there I cut and flared the metal pressure and return lines. You will be using a 3 port return style adjustable regulator, the cheapest and easiest way to get your fuel lines hooked up would be rubber fuel line (you can always change to braided hoses later if you want it to look a little better, right now we're simply trying to get it running) Going off of memory (which mine isn't the best) you will need a few feet of 3/8th rubber FUEL INJECTION hose and also a few feet of 5/16th's FUEL INJECTION hose. You will also need the correct size clamps to go with them. Your pressure line will be hooked up to the inlet port of your regulator, from there you will want to safely route your outlet hose to the inlet on your carb, and you will want the hook the return hose from your return port to your metal return line (I would suggest cutting and flaring the ends of both your pressure and return line around the same area to keep things safe and neat, also make sure you are using fuel injection hoses and clamps, you will also need a fuel pressure gauge on the outlet side, either installed on the regulator (depending on what type of regulator you end up with) or installed in line and you will want to adjust your pressure down to 5-6 psi with the engine running, but that's getting a little ahead of our selves. I'm going to assume the car has an exhaust system behind the headers.. if not you will be installing one. Now that you have your fuel line plumped you will need to get a block off plate and removed both the mechanical fuel pump and the rod from the engine block as they will not be needed. Assuming there is a starter bolted on you will want to check and see if the wires are hooked up, if they are not you will need to locate the starter solenoid wire and connect it to the starter solenoid (the small post on your starter solenoid), and the other from the positive terminal from the battery (which should be mounted on the passenger side of your radiator) directly to the large terminal on your starter. You will also need to hook the ground wire from the battery directly to the engine block. Locate your alternator wires and the connector plug and hook them up before you connect your battery ground. I can't tell from the picture, but you should have a oil pressure sending unit mounted to the block (the port is located on the right hand side of distributor hole just behind the intake manifold, if there isn't one installed there may be a small pipe plug in the port, if so you will want to get a factory oil pressure sending unit and install it there, locate the connector on your wiring harness and connect it (this will provide power to the fuel pump when the engine is running assuming your factory ecm is installed, and your fuel pump relay and fuse block as well as the needed fuses are all installed/connected) You will need to install your distributor and locate and connect your distributor wires, and spark plug wires. Turn the engine by hand until your number 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (Assuming the balancer and timing tab are installed correctly) and install the distributor so that your rotor is pointing to the number 1 spark plug terminal, you may need to use a large/long flathead screw driver to turn the oil pump slot so it drops in and seats all the way. Makes sure all of your accessories are installed and belts installed/adjusted. Make sure your carb is bolted down securely, you will need to install a return spring and locate your throttle cable and the TV (throttle valve) cable from your transmission, if you have the brackets to install them bolt them on and hook them up, make 100% sure that you have the proper bracket to ensure your TV cable geometry is correct and make sure the throttle valve is properly adjusted. Since we really aren't sure what year/model the engine is from set your base timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the port plugged (it should be connected to the ported vacuum port on your carb) hook your vacuum gauge up to one of your manifold vacuum ports on the tee behind your distributor and with your distributor tie down slightly loose advance/retard the distributor until you reach the highest vacuum reading on your gauge (you may need to adjust your idle screw as well to determine where your gauge reads the highest with the idle set) once you achieve that you can hook up your timing light and retard the timing about 2 degrees and that would get you in the ball park of where you should be, from there reconnect your vacuum advance hose to the ported vacuum port on the distributor. Aside from that if you are running an electric cooling fan you will need to locate/install a factory cooling fan switch and locate and plug in the proper connector, aside from that if you want to use the factory temp gauge install a cooling temp sending unit and install/connect the proper connector. As mentioned above you can get an aftermarket lockup kit to maintain the proper operation of the TCC......... I'm sure I missed a bunch of stuff, buts the best off the top of my head. Most of the other connectors will not be needed if your running it with your vacuum advance dist. and non cc carb. Also determine what type of choke your carb has and hook it up... feel free to pm me for more info if needed, hopefully you already have it on the road by now and I just wasted 15 min typing..