I was setting the timing on my T/A and had to mark the harmonic balancer with Wite-Out in order to see the timing mark a little clearer. I looked over to the inside of my left front tire and I was in shock. The entire inside of the tire, about 3/4 of an inch above the rim, had begun to seperate. I purchased these tires about 3 years ago from Discount Auto. I drive the car mostly on the weekends and still have plenty of tread left. The outside of the tires still have the "hairs" on them and do not have the same seperation. This tire is the most advanced stage with the rear left starting to do the same. The other two are okay. I can't believe that these tires have failed this quick. Especially since I paid $122.00 each for them. They are 245/5016R's Hugger - D's. I will take a tire to Discount tomorrow and see what they say. Anyone have this happen? JB

Ive seen it happen before, but it took longer than 3 years to do that. Thats really strange.

I just sent an E to the Department of Transportation (DOT) and Kelly-Sprinfield (KS).

The DOT did not list a recall on the tires. KS did not list them still in stock but the width is now under a "FIERCE" product line.

JB.

Dry rot, or even just plain rot.

How often do you drive? Is the car parked for extended periods?

If its not rot, then u have clearance issues. Check to see nothing is hitting,like tie rod ends, or some screw on ur inner fender maybe?

all tires have date codes on them, stating the year they were produced, i dont have the info handy on how to interpret them, but if you take them to a good shop, they can tell you. Maybe a place other than where you bought them

here, http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_expire.htm

DETERMINING TIRE DATE CODES

How old are the tires on your vehicle? The date of manufacture is indicated by the last group of digits in the DOT manufacture code on the sidewall of the tire. The number is often stamped in a recessed rectangle. The DOT code tells who manufactured the tire, where it was made and when. The last group of digits in the code is the date code that tells when the tire was made.
Before 2000, the date code had three digits. Since 2000, it has had four. The first two digits are the week of the year (01 = the first week of January). The third digit (for tires made before 2000) is the year (1 = 1991). For most tires made after 2000, the third and fourth digits are the year (04 = 2004).
In the photo above, the date code is 8PY806. The 8PY is a manufacturing shift code, and the date the tire was actually made was 0806, which is the 8th week (08)in the year 2006 (06).
The date of manufacture is essential information for car owners and tire buyers because tires deteriorate even if they are not used. European automobile manufacturers recommend replacing ANY tire that is more than six (6) years old, including the spare tire. No such recommendations have yet been made by domestic vehicle manufacturers.

I would guess that if the tires were rubbing against something dull or even sharp, it would create a more streamlined depression or cut. These are very irratic and staggered. As I said, I drive the T/A mostly on the weekends. I have replaced Firestone SS10 Firehawks that were on the T/A for 6 years and had nothing like this happen.

JB.

I will check the DOT codes in a few minutes.

I dont think so. It is rubber after all. Whatever cut it, was probably "pushing" into the tire to cut it. The rubber will want to flex when that happens, and would make a staggered cut like that. the only reason i suggested that, was because i bought a set a 17" tires a while ago, and they had clearly rubbed against the bumpstops. They looked similar to yours. They were also dry rotted though, so im not 100% sure.

If it is dry rot, you should have cracks all over the tire. Including the tread.

I found the following on the DOT sequence:

PJX1 LDLR 0802 E18027799 1609

This was all that I could find on the tire itself that might mean anything.

If the 0802 is correct than August 2002 would apply?

The clearance is okay. I ran the turn radius both directions and nothing touches. If the clearance was an issure, the LR tire would not also be exhibiting the same cracks in a circular pattern, when the rear tires do not move left or right. There is no other cracking in the treads, or shoulder of the tires, only as pictured on the sidewall. I've seen dry rot before and it was way more extreme as you mentioned.

It would the 8th week of 02

You have to look on the inner side of the tire to get the date code. You really need to watch this video from ABC that Scottmoyer uploaded a few days ago. http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=4826897

Seems to be dry rot and heat exposure you do live in Texan, I've seen that on cars I had parked for years waiting to restore them, looks like they do that around the rim more since there's more heat created from the metal. Later.

Wow. The video link should be an eye opener for all of us. I was unusually wary about really getting on the gas pedal the last few years. I guess I will see what KS has to say or Discount. Got off work too late today to check at the tire store.

So my tires were already 3 years old when I bought them. Bummer.

JB.

Isn't that a trip? Mine all checked out to about a year from time of manufacture to install.

I got an email from Goodyear yesterday. They said to print out the email and take the tires to a Goodyear dealer and let the manager take a look at them and then to call the phone numbers on the email.

I won't have time to do it until Tuesday next week. My sons and I are going to the Auto show downtown on Thursday late evening. Too crowded on Fri thru Sun. Friday, girlfriend comes over for the weekend, Sat I will have to work, Sun get the tires ready, Mon work late, Off Tue.

I will let yall know what happens.

JB.

Disc Brake dust shield rubbing?

No dust shields installed. LR tire shows signs of initial failure that is more advanced in the LF tire. LR tire does not turn horizontally, or rub, therefore, must be tire failure?

JB.

i owuld say just general tire failure...chances are u wont get anything back for them. just do not drive on them longer htan u need to (ie to the shop and thats it) good luck.

oh yeh, nothings rubing the tire, its just cracking

I went to Goodyear today and the manager asked me to bring the car around to the bay. I took them off the T/A and had them in the back of my Windstar. I said that I didn't have them on the car as they had sidewall separation issues. He said that he needed to see them on the car. Yeah, drive in on defective tires.

He said that Goodyear did not manufacture the tire. I called Goodyear and they gave me a number for Continental tires.

I called Continental and they said the tire was manufactured by them, but discontinued. Sooo...

I went back to Discount Tire and the manager looked at the tires. He took a tire tread gauge out of his pocket and the tread measured in the "Full" zone. He said that he would give me a prorated price on 3 tires only as the 4th was just purchased in March 2007.

Okay, so I'm figuring that I am screwed on the price. Probably around $400 bones for 3 tires.

He quoted me $225.00. 3 Riken Raptor ZR's 245/5016R. Lifetime replacement, balance, and valves. He adjusted 183.00 for the 3 Hugger GT-D's.

I took the deal and he had them ready at 5:30PM on the dot.

KUDOS to Discount Tire. I will return for the fourth tire which will be at the regular price of $104 and recommend them to my friends.

Anyone want a gently used Hugger GT-D 245/5016R?

JB.

Well, sounds like it worked out better than expected, not free replacement but something. Good for you. Later.

Sounds like a typical dealership response.....

I think you would have had it more in your favor if the tire was not discontinued..... I guess that kinda ruined it.

Like it was said, better than nothing.

Yeah, they could have told me to "pack sand" since I didn't have any receipts for them. So overall I thought it was a pretty cool deal.

JB.

I have seen tire dressings cause that. Especially Armor-all.