MrJ

im trying to remove my old idler arm to install a new one... I got the 2 upper bolts off okay, and the nut that threads onto a stud in the center link came off fine. However, the idler arm will not come off the center link. Is it pressed on or something? I tried hammering the hell out of it, thinking it was rusted on, but had no luck. It looks as though it should just slide right off of the stud since the nut has been removed, but it won't. Any ideas? Do I need a pickle fork or something?

Justins86bird

It been a while since I replace mine, but once you get the nut off, its just a interference fit between the 2 I think. They make special seperators that will remove the parts without damaging them. Or you could try whacking it with the pickle fork and hope not to mess up the centerlink.

5.7lformula

I suggest a pickle fork

87transam5.7tpi

I wouldn't use apickle for because it would be really easy to break the centerlink. by the special tool, I think they'd be like $15 or so.

MrJ

so what is this special tool called? is it a ball joint separator? thanx guys

paulo57509

........but before you bolt the idler arm in place, you need to make sure that the relay rod (center link) height is adjusted. The height is adjusted by moving the idler arm up and down. Check the shop manual for the procedure...it's fairly straight forward. You'll need to improvise the special "gauge" block.

I hope the attached image is ledgible.

Buck268

Thats what I did. I little hammering, and it popped right off - the trick is when ya gotta bolt the new one back up to the centerlink - the bolt spins...well, I got a replacement centerlink from autozone - so I really dunno what the stock will do...

rough

cant find this tool J-33093 any where, whats it do ? clamp it together like a C clamp ?

paulo57509

I found a couple of them on eBay. I see them quite frequently for sale.

You don't really need that special tool. A stiff piece of metal will do. It cannot flex under its own weight; a piece of "L" channel will work....just clamp it to the flat on the centerlink. All this tool does is provide a reference point to which to take measurements from the "socket" to the center link flat.

It doesn't matter what the measurement is. It just needs to be equal on both sides with the wheels pointing straight (the pitman arm should be straight front to back with respect to the car, IIRC).

rough

i replaced my steering linkage a few weeks ago, but there is something wrong, it makes a poping noise, i turn the wheel, the wheel stays turned, and now the front shakes some.

Replaced balljoints, tie rods, center link, idler arm. Got the energy bushings for the swaybar, tie rods, balljoint, endlinks, a - arms, ect.

I had an alignment done already, didnt fix anything since i was able to keep pretty close toe and such by mathing the lengths up with the old one.

I know its something ive done in the linkage, cuz it didnt do it with the 20 year old stock garbage.

These specialy tools they call for to seat the tapers are the only thing i can think of that i went wrong with.

Anyone have issues like this after replacing the steering linkage ?

TZFBird

Removal:
1) Take the bolt loose going to the center link(leave the nut on fluch with the very end.
2) Place jack under the idler arm near the center link with a block of wood between the jack and the idler arm. Jack up until the wood just touches the idler arm and give a little extra pressure.
3) Using a hammer, give a few taps, and one quick hit on the nut. Should break loose very easily.

Install:
1) Loosely bolt up idler arm to frame.
2) Place jack under center link below connection to idler arm. Jack up until wood block meets center link.
3) Keep adding pressure with the jack until you get enough of a lock with the taper to hold the shaft so the nut can be tightened.

You shouldn't hurt anything and you don't have to go out buying a tool that you'll use only once. Just be careful about it and not break or deform anything. Just remember to slowly make harder hits with the hammer than wondering why you broke something on the first swing. Always consider which part you are supporting, and which part you want to separate. This is how I also separated the Pitman arm, end links, and ball joints.

Buck268

Used a 2-jaw gear puller to pop my tie rod ends off this morning while replacing my centerlink... Works VERY well!

But hey, anybody know the torque spec for the tie rod end to center link bolts (well, nuts)???


...and maybe the spec for the idler and pitman to centerlink bolts also?

rough

35 ft lb's all around.

Idler 35 ft lb
Pitman/idler 35 ft lb





Well today is my unlucky lucky day, was driving to class got into the parking lot and my pitman arms bolt on the centerlink came off, guess the prevaling torque nut messed up.

Hope this solves the problem.