Dewey316

OK, well, i am going to hit the dyno on saturday (will have numbers next week for everyone!)

currently for those who don't know, my setup looks like this:

STOCK LO3.
5/8" Spacer
Open Element
Hooker 2055 Headers
Catco 3" Cat
Flowmaster 3" Catback

Other mods that **might Help**
LS1 Driveshaft
3.42 gears
Lightweight Flywheel (weights 14lbs)

SO, the car with everything there, but the headers, ran 15.5@90.2 mph with quite a bit of custom tuning, but i really didn't do much tuning on the spark tables, i added 4* across the board and took 2 out in the WOT adder table, and then just messed with the part throttle VE tables. and changed the commanded WOT AFR from 13.1 and 10.0 to a constant 12.8 across the board.

Last night, i was working on getting my timing refined better, i had lots of chips with me, and all the stuff to tune. i was tuning by using a Tazzo (g-tech), and running 1/8th mile runs, looking at mainly MPH. (didn't do quaters, because well, i like my liscense).

So , the results, and interesting results.

All the chips, have the same VE table, which has been corrected for the headers, after many many hours of datalogging, and work. there was no knock on any of these combo's.

Chip #1 -- 8* of advance in the main spark table, -2* in the WOT adder table (basicly 6* advance over stock), WOT AFR set to 12.5 across the board

10.38 @ 67.8 mph

Chip #2 -- 6* of advance in main table, -2* in WOT -- AFR 12.5
10.42 @ 68.3 mph

Chip #3 -- the exact same chip i ran the 15.5 with, but the VE tables from the header correction. basicly 4* everywhere, but only 2* WOT

9.99 @ 72.1 mph

now, those 2 degree's of timing seemed to have made a HUGE diffrence, we are talking almost 4mph, with just 2*. and note that this is not very much timing change at WOT. i am doing all the timing changes via the chip, the physical timing is set at 0* (stock) there have been alot of posts about timing, generaly telling people to bump timing up, as much 8*. what was VERY interesting is the fastest chip there, FELT slowest (maybe my butt dyno needs to be reconfigured) but it goes to show, feeling fast, and being fast are two diffrent things. the times don't lie, although they are not the actual track, for comparison puproses i think it is pretty accurate, all these were done on flat level ground, same operating temps, ect.

i do plan to dyno a couple of diffrent chip combo's on saturday, and maybe, just maybe, RBob, or someone else will give me some more insight as to another little trick to try (i am willing to dyno test things here, but i need input ). i will likely keep just 2* advance at WOT, and add some more timing everywhere else, just for part throttle response. but the point here is to show how adding timing ISN'T always the answer.

Once again, input on more timing things to try!!!!

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I want the numbers now! Didn't they give you the numbers a soon as you completed your pull? Deffinatelty interesting what you did there. I bet your 15.5 turns into a 15.0 after your headers and a little prom tweak here and there. I can't wait to start messing around with various proms for my ride since the LT1 cam went it. Damn this cold.

Dewey316

i don't have number, i run on saturday. as in 2 more days i was trying to get some tweaking done so i have some things to compare on the dyno, i thought i would share that.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I am an idiot and re-read that. doh: I thought you said you went to the dyno on saturday. Anyways, I bet you put down between 170 and 200 to the wheels. Oh an about 250 to 260 tq. Is that what you are hoping for?:

Dewey316

yeah, i am figuring between 180-200 at the wheels. all of the HP calcs for my MPH at the track before headers say 210wheels/245flywheel, but i know that is not correct.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I am really excited to see your numbers. I think you will have the first true bolt with stock heads and cam on 305 with proper tuning with dyno numbers. There are a few but I am not sure if they are as tuned as well as you are. It would also be intersting to see what your mods do with the stock bin. That way many people on this board can geuss what they put down with similar mods minus the tuning. There are tons of members that are in that boat but are still leary of the tuning process. The comparrison of the two should alert people to the horrible restriction of the stock tune. I know I drove my car in this category of people for over a year. Now that the new cam is in I have no choice but to tune.

Dewey316

shifty, i should have quite a few good comparison numbers, my good friend has a 91 RS, bone stock LO3, we are going to run that with a stock chip, and a chip i made for him, along with the chip that i ran 15.5 on. how many i can run on my car we will see, since this is the Crew's annual dyno day, we normaly only get 3 pulls, since i cordinate it i am going to try to swing some extra time for myself, to run several chips. and make a custom one while there, to use the WBO2 info i get. i'll be sure to run a stock chip on my car though, just to compare.

ssxmac

iTrader: (1)

I cant wait to see what you come back with. I was really thinking about getting into tuning, but because of $ (ive just got way too many things to buy right now) i decided against getting the equipment. I'll be doing the 2055's as soon as they arrive in the mail, and besides your 3.42, we'll have about the same setup (right down to the metallic blue paint!).

Weren't you planning on doing a single plane? or was that someone else... I ask because this was going to be part of my setup, and would obviousally require tuning, i was going to get TBIchips.com to do it for me b/c of $, but maybe you can change my mind.

-chuck

Mc Firebird

Dewey316 - Your post are always excellent. some Qs

I run 4.5 degs as the initial advance, but 0 actually on the distib.
above 2000 rpm, high map (70-100), i run 20-22degs in the main table.
7 degrees in the PE mode spark correction.
i still have the original 8 degree per 1000 slope adder.


I g-teched 87.5 MPH with just an open element.
off the line i hold 1400 and lite it up, just keep it planted and ride out the axle hop.
the 1-2 shift at <5000rpm is good, but the 2-3 gives me some knock counts and drops back the timing, i can feel it go flat, so some work needed in that area.

I would appreciate it if you could send me your bin for comparison.

Dewey316

i'll try to get you that bin, it is on my poor little laptop, and i have no internet right now at home. i'll try to find a floppy and bring it to work with me.

BTW, had some serious problems on they dyno, so no number i think i need 1 new injector

although if anyone is interested i have a dyno graph of an L03 with a 15.7:1 AFR and lots of knock

man this sucks, car runs great 3 days before the dyno, then goes to crap.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

Well that sucks... Figures the one day you actually need your car to run the way it can all hell breaks loose. Oh well, the waiting game begins till we can all see these numbers. Good luck and let us know what the culprit was.

Dewey316

yeah, its going to be hell to track down it has a hesitation at part throttle (probably due to the lean condition) althouth my BLMs are at 128, on they dyno the wideband said 15.7 my o2 voltage on the logs was .950 or so

also, when the car hesitates, the tachometer will jump around by 1k rpm or so, not sure what in the heck would be causing that. i will likely be trying a new iginition modual, a new o2, and likely pulling all my plugs and wires. ohhh well, i will eventualy get it running right.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

It shouldn't be your O2. Even a bad O2 won't normally cause a hestitation. I would check for a fouled plug or bad fuel relay or something to look at while you cover the basics. Your fuel system isn't heading south is it?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Yes BTDT, but some people still won't believe you on the O2 sensor reading vs. WB reading.

The tach jump & hesitation together point to the igntion system. Could be the pickup coil, ignition module, cap/rotor, coil or even the wires.

Bummer that it went out while doing the dyno.

RBob.

Dewey316

yeah, but seeing first hand hte WB vs NB outputs opened my eyes to just how far off they can be. i figured iginition also, but the spray pattern on 1 injector didn't look great, so that might be a factor for the lean condition. since the coil i put on there is fairly new (under 500 miles on it) i am going to put the old stocker back on. after that i have a spare ingition modual, so i'll put that in also. i'll get it figured out, i know that the power is there when it runs right, i'm just pissed it took a dive right before i got up on the rollers.

Chuck!

As stupid as it sounds, make sure all your plug wires are connected. I spent 2 days chasing down the same problem you're saying you have and it turned out that my #6 wire barely worked its way off the plug somehow. I was pissed but relieved at the same time.

I cant wait to get my car attached to a wb o2.

Dewey316

i checked them, and if i was not firing 1 cyl, i should have had a rich WB reading, not the 15.7:1 reading i got.