jimp2001

I installed and removed a few things that really made my car look a lot nicer under the hood, for a minimal amout of money.

Mr. Gasket Non-Drop Air Filter............................ $15
APC Open Element Breather............................... $10
(8) 1/4 NPT Brass Plugs.................................... $12
Dayco 98.6" 6 Rib Belt...................................... $20
2 Pack of 5/8 colling system caps....................... $2
Making your engine look a lot nicer than stock...... Priceless

I started by removing the factory air filter snorkel, and breather tube. Capped the vaccum line on the TB, used a uni-bit to drill a hole for the sensor in the bottom of the air cleaner base. Installed air cleaner and breather.


I then decided that the 3 hoses and large vaccum controlled diverter valve for the heater core was hideous and completely unnescesary. I removed the hoses from the diverter valve and traced them back to their sources. I capped the "T" on the passenger side frame rail with the rubber caps i got from the auto parts store, and used a 90* elbow to connect the heater core to the manifold.

Now the A.I.R. system was really bothering me. It was yet another eyesore in the bay. I went to Home Depot, and purchased 1/4 Brass Square Head NPT plugs. I removed the AIR hoses from the manifold collectors, removed the AIR solenoids and smog pump, then removed each tube from the manifold. I applied JB Weld liberally to the threads of the brass plugs to ensure that they would not leak or back out. After installing each fitting, I wiped the excess JB weld off the plug to give it a more professional look. I then used my remaing cap that I got for the cooling system to plug the line from the catalytic converter next to my elbow I just installed to bypass the diverter valve. I then installed my new belt, and I was done.

Top Circle is elbow installed to bypass diverter valve. Bottom circle is rubber cap to block off catalytic converter AIR Tube.


Top Circle is elbow installed to bypass diverter valve. Middle circle is rubber cap to block off catalytic converter AIR Tube. Bottom circle is rubber cap to block off the "T" line that went to the diverter valve.


Circles indicate 1/4 Brass NPT Plugs installed into manifold on Drivers Side.


Here is how the new belt must be routed after deleteing the smog pump.


Here is a picture of the finished project:

vorgath

I gotta do that too the less hoses that go zig-zag across everywhere . .the better .. .I'm a firm believer in the ability of being able to reach as much as possible of the engine parts without any problems .. (read ... such as plugwires and plugs .. without going underneath the car .. just because the AIR system blocks it from top)

Cadillac

Not too shabby!

My problem is all that has to be reversed with every smog inspection. Otherwise you risk this: "VISUAL INSPECTION: TAMPERED".

Automatic fail.

Durn California.

~kicks can~

demetri

Or just spray it with engine degreaser

jimp2001

All I have is safety... no visual or sniffer

dwillis

iTrader: (6)

ive done all that except for the heater hose reroute..it bothers me also...the only extra ive done than that is since i removed smog and emissions i went ahead and blocked off egr valve and removed the distribution block that really cleans it up nice too..you should try that next...I live in tn..not really strict on emissions in my town

Cadillac

Your time will come.

jimp2001

hopefully my time will come when the car is considered a classic and doesnt have to pass

weberflorida

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I have done that stuff and it really neatens up the engine bay. Escpecially the heater valve delete and it only cost me like 6 or 7 bucks to do.

camaro89rs355

will the heater still work with this bypass done will the engine temp go up at all or what.

weberflorida

iTrader: (2)

Yeah man everything works normal on my car and from what I have read it has worked normal on everyones car that has done it.

Bill

kyle folds

You will have higher A/C temps because the heater core casing will be hot, maybe not enough to be a problem though.

88 Z28 Guy

iTrader: (1)

I did the same to mine, looks a lot better.

Green92RS305

i've done everything there except the heater diverter valve and i'm about to do that as well. thankx for the suggestion cuz i've been wondering for a while how to get rid of those stupid coolant hoses. i yanked out my a/c too so thats not gonna be affected either. glad to see if not the only one who likes a clean looking engine bay


EDIT: i found a pic of my engine bay on my PC, the only big thing left for me to do is get rid of that smog fitting to the cat (gonna get headers/y-pipe/hi-flow cat) and get rid of the evaporator for the a/c system and it'll be the way i want it to look. it'll be purty even if it is slow.



guess the pic don't work

hmmurdock_00

Quick question, you say 98.6" belt, the tech article on removing the smog pump said 96.8". Which is it? Just went out and got a 98.7" closest i could get to the 98.7.

MrDude_1

heres how i did mine:



i removed everything resembling a TBI SBC:


and replaced it with something else:


ive been getting compliments ever since.

DM91RS

MrDude_1

Location: Charleston, SC

heres how i did mine: LS1 M6

Yep...........that's almost worth getting on I-20 and heading toward the coast and seeing!


DM

88 Z28 Guy

iTrader: (1)

MrDude, that what i would like to do but dont have the money.
Also i bought a 98 Belt but it was even longer than the stock one it has on the car, i winded up using the stock one which is a 97, so a 96.6-97 would be the best.

brodyscamaro

Pshhh, mr doods lsjuan isnt even cammed


it does look good sittin in there tho

azvolfan

I would love to do that stuff and show off my shiney Edelbrock valve covers but it would fail inspection out here in Phoenix. Environment police are pretty tough out here.

MrDude_1

ive had a cam for it for almost a year now...
i still havent gotten around to swapping it in... remember, this is still a 3rdgen.. so even if the drivetrain is killer, i still have the entire rest of the car to modify before it doesnt suck.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

[IMG]TBI.jpg[/IMG]

M1tch

Do you think that the open element gave you any horses/ torque over the stock snorkel kit?

Gm Jray

Whe you rerouted your belt doesnt that reverse the water pump????

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

I've been looking on the search for a while but, what are those coolant lines on the passenger valve cover for, and what do they do? Just mildly confused on why they were there in the first place and i don't want to have problems that i didn't expect after removal is all.

I'd like to get rid of mine but, i don't understand what they are for.... That and j/w why didn't you remove the cat line completely (i'm planning on removing mine monday probably...) All the rest of my air stuff is gone so far though.

Dewey316

those coolant lines are for the heater core. They go in thru the firewall to (or from) the heater core.

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

caught that part but, i'm trying to figure out what the heck the valve thing of top of it is for and what the ending affect of getting rid and capping and diverting them is. T/y for the quick response though.

Dewey316

The valve stops coolant flow to the heater core, when you have the heater turned off. There is really no major effect to getting rid of it. When you take it out, you pass coolant to the core at all times, you can still blow cold air, since you close the door to the heat exchanger, when you turn your temp to cold, it blocks airflow from the core, and gives you airflow from the vents in the cowl.

Hope that helps.

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

exactly what i was looking for, thanks a lot!

90CamaroTBI

is it majorly important to cap that vacuum from that valve?

Dewey316

Yes, otherwise you have a pretty good sized vacume leak, your car won't run quite right.

90CamaroTBI

how can i cap it?

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

with the 5/8 cooling cap above........

90CamaroTBI

I mean to cap off that vacuum line.

jimp2001

you can get those caps at any auto parts store

90CamaroTBI

I have some, but I cant cap the line with them, and I dont know where it starts at to cap that way.

Dewey316

Follow the vac line. and plug it where it goes into the TBI unit, or the manifold. I can't off the top of my head remeber where it goes to.

90CamaroTBI

It goes into this like harness with wires and runs into the firewall....thats why I couldnt trace it to the TB.

88 Z28 Guy

iTrader: (1)

Well if i cant find a cap to cap off a Vacume line i do it the easy way, i get a piece of flexible vacume line and screw a tight fiting screw into it.

Dewey316

I'll go look in the morning, when I have some good light, and try to find where in the firewall that would have gone. It has been a few years now since I pulled that stuff out of my car.

90CamaroTBI

Thanks man.

Dewey316

OK, here is how I did it. I ran the vac line thru my wire loom, up to near the strut mount. I just capped that with a screw.

The more I look at it, I'm not sure if what kind of vacume if any it really see's but hey.


Wire routed up near the wireloom, so it isn't an eyesore.


Pluged with a screw that fits in snugly, then screwd in a bit to ensure it seals.


All tucked away, nice and clean!


There is also a how to that I did for the coolant lines, I did it basicly the same, but mine shows it with all the emmisions stuff still intact.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=heater

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

thats handy as hell dewey thanks!

pictures always speak louder than words for me, unfortunately my new valve cover along with some other ****t i got cost more than i was hoping for it to so it may be a few untill i buy my 5 bucks worth of hose clamps lol (making an excuse to not work on the car).

88 Z28 Guy

iTrader: (1)

thats exactly how i did mine.

irocwagon

where did you get the brass fittings from, ive been looking for 2 days.

88 Z28 Guy

iTrader: (1)

Well i got mine from the local hardware store, well i had to use zinc ones since they were out of brass ones but they worked fine.

jimp2001

got mine from home depot plumbing dept. they have a square head so you'll need a 12 point socket to install them.

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

or a wrench works. For some reason i of course couldn't find that 10 mm socket that i needed at the time. They are super easy to put on even with a wrench because, the airlines will now be gone and outa the way!

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

nice looking. ive been thinking about removing all my emmisions crap. i like how you removed the lines over the passenger side manifold too. why did you just remove the whole cat converter tube instead of just capping it?

Trah84Z

iTrader: (1)

would it be beneficial to run a breather filter on both sides instead of just one?...