y5mgisi

So i went out and started going down this voltage checklist trying to track down an iratic idle issue and all my numbers are way far off. Like not even in the ball park. I know im checking it right becasue all the ones that are supposed to be 12 volt are at 11.7ish. Think thats a bad ecm then? Heres a copy of the check list that i sort of just drew the numbers into the boxes of what my readings were. I didnt do all of them becasue everything was so far off! Deffinetly appricate the help!

Tbi-MAX

voltages looks good to me, i don't see anything wrong. also 12v just mean 12v scale (car), doesn't need to be exactly 12v. a good rule of thumb is between 3-5% tolerance. so yea, 11.7 is good to go... same goes for 14v, 13.8 or 14.2 is alright... normally when the alternator is charging its a good 2v higher than what the batts sits at. car systems are 12v as you know. if you had a 16v charging system, you would charge it with 18v preferably.

for the est and the other sensor, looks like your just reading the resistance referenced from ground.

i dont think your computer is at fault.

RFmaster

I did the same check list before firing up my conversion. Couple of things stand out and you should take close look at...

The battery voltage, while idling, should be around 13.8 V +/- 0.2 with a healthy alternator, battery and wiring. In your case for both engine off and engine run columns show identical voltage: 11.2V Pin C16. Where do you connect your ground leads? This also may indicate expired voltage regulator within alternator.. Check alternator output voltage - it should be around 13.8 to 14.0 Vdc at idle when measured between case and +B terminal.

//RF