vERY GOOD ADVICE THAT SOME MAY NOT BE AWARE OF
#1
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
Very good advice that some may not be aware of
If your car has at least 100,000 miles on it, change the heater control valve (sometimes called diverter valve). They tend to get brittle over time and can break without warning, causing you to get stranded in the middle of nowhere with coolant spewing out.
Doing nothing about this: $0.00
New valve: $16.00 from Autozone.
Stranded on the road: Worthless
Peace of mind: Priceless
:hail:IROC-Z
Doing nothing about this: $0.00
New valve: $16.00 from Autozone.
Stranded on the road: Worthless
Peace of mind: Priceless
:hail:IROC-Z
Last edited by rocky383; 09-30-2002 at 06:00 AM.
#2
You mean like planned maintenance? Wow, what a concept! I wish more people would think about that.
That's a good point, and an item that many of us would probably overlook when routinely changing belts and hoses. It's probably well worth the fifteen bucks or so, considering that you could lose all your coolant on the road if it failed (just like an old, dried hose).
Any more good tips that are normally overlooked?
That's a good point, and an item that many of us would probably overlook when routinely changing belts and hoses. It's probably well worth the fifteen bucks or so, considering that you could lose all your coolant on the road if it failed (just like an old, dried hose).
Any more good tips that are normally overlooked?
#3
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Yeah, that plastic diverter valve was a bad idea. The only time it really does anything is when you switch to "max A/C" it diverts coolant from going through the heater core. I have found that simply removing it completely doesn't affect the A/C's performance any noticable amount. And it cleans up the look under the hood a little bit, too. I do stuff real low buck. If you decide to keep it, however, a new one is definitely a good idea.
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Car: 85 Z28
Engine: LG4 modified
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Vader
Any more good tips that are normally overlooked?
Any more good tips that are normally overlooked?
1) When changing the oil, replace the sump plug washer. Saves having to drain the oil if your old washer ceases to make a good seal.
2) When installing new spark plugs, attatch a piece of rubber hose, about 12" long, to the end and use it as a sort of extension. Allows you to screw the plugs in at different angles and avoids cross-threading.
3) Check your tyre (that's how we Brits spell tire) pressures hot....like after a drive. Hot air expands, giving the reading you need for driving the car. Cold air can give a false reading on the gauge.
4) Put some grease on the battery terminals, to protect them from corrosion. Also, on the subject, when removing a battery always remove the negative terminal first, and replace it last.
5) When searching for a suspension-related knock or squeak, spray some WD-40 on the bushes one at a time. This should temporarily eliminate the sound, showing you your problem. Also bear in mind that suspension noises can conduct through metal, so a sound from the drivers side could easily be a passenger side problem.
I'll think of some more later I expect.
Si
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Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH350
Originally posted by Damon
The only time it really does anything is when you switch to "max A/C" it diverts coolant from going through the heater core.
The only time it really does anything is when you switch to "max A/C" it diverts coolant from going through the heater core.
:hail:IROC-Z
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Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by rocky383
On the other side of the coin, if the diaphram shaft in the valve gets stuck in the up position, it will keep you from getting warm air.
:hail:IROC-Z
On the other side of the coin, if the diaphram shaft in the valve gets stuck in the up position, it will keep you from getting warm air.
:hail:IROC-Z
...you said diaphragm.
...and shaft.
...and gets stuck.
...and position.
si_camaro, wouldn't putting grease on the battery terminals give you a bit of a conductivity problem...?
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#8
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Car: 85 Z28
Engine: LG4 modified
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by FyreLance
si_camaro, wouldn't putting grease on the battery terminals give you a bit of a conductivity problem...?
si_camaro, wouldn't putting grease on the battery terminals give you a bit of a conductivity problem...?
#9
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
lets not forget to always apply anti sieze grease to all parts like spark plugs and o2 sensors taht youll eventually want to get out later on.
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