Forged or hypeuretic?
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Forged or hypeuretic?
Hey all...I might be buying an '84 Z-28 with a blown 305 H.O. I had two questions first off...was the H.O motor the L69?? Second...The engine will need to be rebuilt and I was wondering if anyone had a ballpark idea on what it might cost to have it rebuilt with forged internals. Or would hypeuretic (sp?) be ok. I don't know what kind of blower it has.
Thanks in advance.
Tim:rockon:
Thanks in advance.
Tim:rockon:
#3
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A cheap set of forged pistons (Speed Pro) will typically cost about $75-100 more than a good set of Hypereutectics (Keith Black), apples to apples. Forged are stronger but they have their drawbacks, too. In general, if you can swing the extra bucks and it's a performance motor, not designed to be driven tens of thousands of miles a year, then go for the forged slugs.
But like Ede says, the sky's the limit on how much you can spend.
I've gone disgustingly fast on cheap hypereutectic pistons. Nitrous, blower, you name it (well, nitrous and blower, anyway!). Almost any piston will last a long time in a well tuned, well built engine.
But like Ede says, the sky's the limit on how much you can spend.
I've gone disgustingly fast on cheap hypereutectic pistons. Nitrous, blower, you name it (well, nitrous and blower, anyway!). Almost any piston will last a long time in a well tuned, well built engine.
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Car: 91 RS, 00 TA Ram Air, 86 IROC
Engine: 305 tbi, LS1, 355
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 700R4 NonLU
Hyperutectics are surprisingly strong and reliable. I would have no prob. using them to around 400 hp.:rockon:
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Dont rebuild that 305 . I know the 305 purists will get all hot and bothered , but for the same amount of money you spend on maching and parts cost you could have a 350 or for a little bit more a 383.
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Car: 91 RS, 00 TA Ram Air, 86 IROC
Engine: 305 tbi, LS1, 355
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 700R4 NonLU
Originally posted by evil t/a
Dont rebuild that 305 . I know the 305 purists will get all hot and bothered , but for the same amount of money you spend on maching and parts cost you could have a 350 or for a little bit more a 383.
Dont rebuild that 305 . I know the 305 purists will get all hot and bothered , but for the same amount of money you spend on maching and parts cost you could have a 350 or for a little bit more a 383.
:rockon: :rockon:
#7
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Originally posted by evil t/a
I know the 305 purists will get all hot and bothered
I know the 305 purists will get all hot and bothered
Brandon
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ok, lets think about this.....my brother got my old 305 rebuilt for himself, This is the cost and what was included, as far as i can remember
1) Boil and magnaflux blowck and heads
2) rebuilt heads (new guides, springs, seals, valve job)
3) Block was honed b/c it did not need to be bored, even after 130,000 miles, i guess this guy changed his oil on time.
4) New used crank ground down .010
5) typical rebuild kit (Pistons, rings, rod/main/cam bearing, oil pump gaskets etc etc)
6) New IROC(what ever cam that was, i told my dad to make sure he told him it was for a stick so the L98 cam would go in, but he didn't)
7) New roller lifters
8)and it was all assembled for
$1300
Not bad, now if this kid put a zz4 cam, ported the heads, matched the rest of the valve train, springs, pushrods etc, some headers, a nice intake and a good carb he should be looking at low 14s high 13s with proper tuning and correct driving. I mean look what some of the guys around here have done with basically stock engines just by porting the heads and intake and keeping to the motor fresh and some added an exhaust. Just remember you will have to go out and by a 350 core and that is a non running engine, usally BEAT TO HELL, oil never changed etc for around $175 to $250, plus any extra crap you are gonna need so money you save on the 305 you can put at a cam(where the real power is formed) and as long as you don't plan on trying to exceed 350 hp NA with the 305 you should be ok....for a stock rebuild i would HIGHLY reccomend staying with the 305.
1) Boil and magnaflux blowck and heads
2) rebuilt heads (new guides, springs, seals, valve job)
3) Block was honed b/c it did not need to be bored, even after 130,000 miles, i guess this guy changed his oil on time.
4) New used crank ground down .010
5) typical rebuild kit (Pistons, rings, rod/main/cam bearing, oil pump gaskets etc etc)
6) New IROC(what ever cam that was, i told my dad to make sure he told him it was for a stick so the L98 cam would go in, but he didn't)
7) New roller lifters
8)and it was all assembled for
$1300
Not bad, now if this kid put a zz4 cam, ported the heads, matched the rest of the valve train, springs, pushrods etc, some headers, a nice intake and a good carb he should be looking at low 14s high 13s with proper tuning and correct driving. I mean look what some of the guys around here have done with basically stock engines just by porting the heads and intake and keeping to the motor fresh and some added an exhaust. Just remember you will have to go out and by a 350 core and that is a non running engine, usally BEAT TO HELL, oil never changed etc for around $175 to $250, plus any extra crap you are gonna need so money you save on the 305 you can put at a cam(where the real power is formed) and as long as you don't plan on trying to exceed 350 hp NA with the 305 you should be ok....for a stock rebuild i would HIGHLY reccomend staying with the 305.
#9
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Originally posted by camaro6spd
ok, lets think about this.....my brother got my old 305 rebuilt for himself, This is the cost and what was included, as far as i can remember
1) Boil and magnaflux blowck and heads
2) rebuilt heads (new guides, springs, seals, valve job)
3) Block was honed b/c it did not need to be bored, even after 130,000 miles, i guess this guy changed his oil on time.
4) New used crank ground down .010
5) typical rebuild kit (Pistons, rings, rod/main/cam bearing, oil pump gaskets etc etc)
6) New IROC(what ever cam that was, i told my dad to make sure he told him it was for a stick so the L98 cam would go in, but he didn't)
7) New roller lifters
8)and it was all assembled for
$1300
Not bad, now if this kid put a zz4 cam, ported the heads, matched the rest of the valve train, springs, pushrods etc, some headers, a nice intake and a good carb he should be looking at low 14s high 13s with proper tuning and correct driving. I mean look what some of the guys around here have done with basically stock engines just by porting the heads and intake and keeping to the motor fresh and some added an exhaust. Just remember you will have to go out and by a 350 core and that is a non running engine, usally BEAT TO HELL, oil never changed etc for around $175 to $250, plus any extra crap you are gonna need so money you save on the 305 you can put at a cam(where the real power is formed) and as long as you don't plan on trying to exceed 350 hp NA with the 305 you should be ok....for a stock rebuild i would HIGHLY reccomend staying with the 305.
ok, lets think about this.....my brother got my old 305 rebuilt for himself, This is the cost and what was included, as far as i can remember
1) Boil and magnaflux blowck and heads
2) rebuilt heads (new guides, springs, seals, valve job)
3) Block was honed b/c it did not need to be bored, even after 130,000 miles, i guess this guy changed his oil on time.
4) New used crank ground down .010
5) typical rebuild kit (Pistons, rings, rod/main/cam bearing, oil pump gaskets etc etc)
6) New IROC(what ever cam that was, i told my dad to make sure he told him it was for a stick so the L98 cam would go in, but he didn't)
7) New roller lifters
8)and it was all assembled for
$1300
Not bad, now if this kid put a zz4 cam, ported the heads, matched the rest of the valve train, springs, pushrods etc, some headers, a nice intake and a good carb he should be looking at low 14s high 13s with proper tuning and correct driving. I mean look what some of the guys around here have done with basically stock engines just by porting the heads and intake and keeping to the motor fresh and some added an exhaust. Just remember you will have to go out and by a 350 core and that is a non running engine, usally BEAT TO HELL, oil never changed etc for around $175 to $250, plus any extra crap you are gonna need so money you save on the 305 you can put at a cam(where the real power is formed) and as long as you don't plan on trying to exceed 350 hp NA with the 305 you should be ok....for a stock rebuild i would HIGHLY reccomend staying with the 305.
My .030 350 roller cam ,one peice rear main 4 bolt steel crank shortblock cost me $1066 total with lifters , a comp cams 280 cam , lifters , 3 keyway timing set , oil pump/pickup and gasket set. If I wanted to use the crappy stock heads( why would I)? I could have picked them up for less than 300 new .
And I could have easily got it cheaper than that if I didnt want a one peice rear main block.
And about usually having to buy a non running 350 core . Unless you live in mayberry running 350's are not hard to find at all . And businesses selling either long or shortblock 350s are all over the place. There are deals out there , you just have to be willing to look.
Rebuilding a 305 makes no sense unless you want to keep the car numbers matching ( with an 84 305 thirdgen , it really isnt going to matter). The dollar/hp ratio is strongly in favor of the larger engine since everything else (distributor , intake , exhaust , all accesories, and transmissions) will bolt right up.
Last edited by evil t/a; 01-18-2003 at 02:13 PM.
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