do you guys do this when changing your oil?
#1
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Car: 92 Z28 Z03
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 G80
do you guys do this when changing your oil?
i seen this topic over at camaroZ28.com. here is the link:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=106552
do you guys fill up the oil filter with oil when you put the new oil in?
I don't.
What do you guys do?
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=106552
do you guys fill up the oil filter with oil when you put the new oil in?
I don't.
What do you guys do?
#3
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i do but i realize it's mostly a waste of time. worst case scenerio, your engine will go without oil flow for about 5 seconds....trust me, the engine will handle it just fine.
As a interesting note i saw someone say that it's a common practice among gm technicians. I've worked at 3 gm dealerships and never met a technician who bothered to do it.
As a interesting note i saw someone say that it's a common practice among gm technicians. I've worked at 3 gm dealerships and never met a technician who bothered to do it.
#4
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I worked at an oil change place for a couple months. The only time I was told to do that is with big diesel trucks that had the HUGE oil filters that fit like almost 2litres inside them. Other then that I cant see it making a big difference.
#5
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Crate Motor
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.73
I've always done it, but I've always owned Chevys.
On other brand cars it's often not possible because of the angle of the filter mount.
You won't hurt anything by not doing it, but it won't hurt either.
-Rich-
On other brand cars it's often not possible because of the angle of the filter mount.
You won't hurt anything by not doing it, but it won't hurt either.
-Rich-
#6
Nope. And after NOT doing it about 35 times on an LT1, the main and rod bearing shells and crank were at a stock diameter. After a little polishing, stock shells were installed. However, I "cheat" by using synthetic.
#7
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
I always do it. Startup is already your biggest friction issue so why make it worse? Anit-drain back valve in the PF1218 filter keeps the oil from going all into the sump. I believe it helps a lot with bigger motors, less with something like a 4 banger.
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#8
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I've torn down engines that sat for 3 months and guess what was all over the bearings when I pulled the caps? OIL!!!
For some reason the oil tends to cling to metal. It's the darndest thing. The only way I could get all that oil off was to wash it with parts cleaner. I wonder if that's why they use it in motors?
:sillylol:
I'm with Vader. You don't "need" to do that. Although it won't hurt anything if you do. I guess the only safe bet is a safe one.
If you want to coat the parts with a little oil so they're ready when you re-start the motor, start it up and let it run for 30 seconds before you drain the oil.
For some reason the oil tends to cling to metal. It's the darndest thing. The only way I could get all that oil off was to wash it with parts cleaner. I wonder if that's why they use it in motors?
:sillylol:
I'm with Vader. You don't "need" to do that. Although it won't hurt anything if you do. I guess the only safe bet is a safe one.
If you want to coat the parts with a little oil so they're ready when you re-start the motor, start it up and let it run for 30 seconds before you drain the oil.
#9
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Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
the question shouldn't be why do it, its why wouldn't you? It only takes a few seconds and as well as it only takes a few seconds for a wall to be scratched or a bearing ate up. Why not? if you love your car, mys well treat it good by doing something that ISN'T hard or time consuming. better to be safe than sorry
#11
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Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
I'm with AJ and Vader on this one. Me nor anybody in my family has done this, problem free for years
#12
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by brodyscamaro
I'm with AJ and Vader on this one. Me nor anybody in my family has done this, problem free for years
I'm with AJ and Vader on this one. Me nor anybody in my family has done this, problem free for years
#13
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
I always fill it. Most people rub oil on the seal of the filter so while you're doing that why not just fill it up? May not make any difference but who knows...
#14
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Engine: slowtacular L03 305
Transmission: slushem 700r4
I don't do it simply because i have always had to change oil in the driveway. Since i moved up here, i can't do it my self (apartment complexes get grouchy about oil on their pavement, not to mentionits a pain to dispose of) so jiffy lube does it. Really i have always done it the same way. I just drain it, take the filter off, rub oil on the seal put it back on, then fill it up, start it for a few seconds, shut it off check the level and make sure nothing is leaking then take it out for a quik easy run and all is good.
#16
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Car: 1990 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH700-R4
i do it also and i usualy rub a little oil on the gasket around the oil filter to make sure it comes off next time i change it....
#17
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yup i do it with all my autos. i don't like the sound of the engine knockin from lack of oil pressure. it's completely **** but makes me feel better knowing that the engine is getting full pressure when it's started for the first time with fresh oil and filter.
#18
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I do it everytime... why not. Also I like to put a thin layer of oil on the rubber gasket so that it seals nicely. With all the hours we put in our car whats another minute?
#19
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just so you know, putting oil on the rubber gasket wont help the sealing. In fact it will seal TOO well if you dont put oil on it. the reason you put oil on is so it will slide off easily when you change your oil.
I've seen oil filter gasket on there so tight that you'll rip the filter off and the gasket will still be stuck to the engine. Then you got to chisel the little bastard off....
I've seen oil filter gasket on there so tight that you'll rip the filter off and the gasket will still be stuck to the engine. Then you got to chisel the little bastard off....
#20
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
I always fill the filter most of the way up on my Camaro, on my Dodge truck it's on a angle so I can't fill it up but about half way, I also take off the gasket and inspect it well and oil both sides of it, I have found a few new filters with damaged gaskets, I just reused the old one and it worked fine.
#22
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I always do it; it's easy enough. I may as well spend an extra 5 seconds dumping 1/2 quart into the filter... if it helps, well, great; if it doesn't make a difference, all I've lost is 5 seconds of my life. If anything, it gives me a chance to stand and stretch up for a bit!
#23
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Car: 1990 Trans Am
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: factory T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 limited slip
now i feel all **** retentive about how i do mine, fill the filter, put oil on the ring, wipe down everything (oil filter threading, bolt threading on pan, bolt, dipstick), anyone have anything to add to that?
#24
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Car: 92 Z28 Z03
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 G80
I never heard of anyone doing it before this. But now maybe I will start.
This is probably stupid but when you fill up the oil filter do you put in the part where you screw it on to the engine?
Sorry but this is new to me....probably cause I live in the sticks.
This is probably stupid but when you fill up the oil filter do you put in the part where you screw it on to the engine?
Sorry but this is new to me....probably cause I live in the sticks.
#25
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
I've always done it on my vehicles that it was "possible", sbc-the older blocks it's very easy, BUT there is that pesky by-pass valve that doe'snt let the oil even go through the filter until like 1500rpm or so, that is why most race engine install a plug where the oil filter spins on so it filters at ALL times, instead of starting at a certain rpm. Correct me if I'm wrong, that's what we've always been told, and have always installed a plug when rebuilding motors weather it be a stock rebuild or a race engine.
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Car: 1990 Trans Am
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: factory T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 limited slip
mikez28, you do pour it into the very center hole in the filter where you eventually thread it to the block
#27
Show me how to do that on a Buick V-6, or a Chevy 122 four-cylinder, or an Iron Duke or Quad 4, or a 300" Ford truck six, etc. Get the idea?
No, it doesn't hurt a thing to fill the filter if you CAN. The factory doesn't bother. If you're using an oversized filter, it might be a good idea if the filter orientation allows it. I guess every little bit helps.
It's really just another good argument for an electric pre-lube/kidney loop oil filtration system with an external cooler. What ever became of that project, anyway?
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=155246
No, it doesn't hurt a thing to fill the filter if you CAN. The factory doesn't bother. If you're using an oversized filter, it might be a good idea if the filter orientation allows it. I guess every little bit helps.
It's really just another good argument for an electric pre-lube/kidney loop oil filtration system with an external cooler. What ever became of that project, anyway?
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=155246
#28
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Even though I consider myself to be one of the laziest people I know, I'm still not lazy enough to not bother filling the oil filter before putting it on. I mean why not?
#29
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Car: 89 Firebird T/A
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I've always filled the oil filter with oil until capacity. I, however, have never bothered to wipe the mating surface and the threads clean...
I figure it can't hurt anything and it's worth the peace of mind knowing that if in the future someone finds out that their engine died because they didn't prime the oil filter, I did.. =o) And no one likes a gloater... SEE? SEE?!
I figure it can't hurt anything and it's worth the peace of mind knowing that if in the future someone finds out that their engine died because they didn't prime the oil filter, I did.. =o) And no one likes a gloater... SEE? SEE?!
#30
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I always do, just because it's free and easy, and I can do it while I'm waiting for other quarts of oil to pour into the motor.
Probably doesn't really accomplish much, if anything; but I feel just slightly fuzzier after I do it.
That's not what the bypass valve does. It opens and lets dirty poil go to the motor, whenever the pressure drop across the filter exceeds some reasonable value, something around 5 or 10 psi. As long as the filter flows well with no (or very little) pressure drop, it stays closed and doesn't bypass anything.
Probably doesn't really accomplish much, if anything; but I feel just slightly fuzzier after I do it.
That's not what the bypass valve does. It opens and lets dirty poil go to the motor, whenever the pressure drop across the filter exceeds some reasonable value, something around 5 or 10 psi. As long as the filter flows well with no (or very little) pressure drop, it stays closed and doesn't bypass anything.
#31
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Do a search, we've argued about it before. I do it, just because it wastes that time it takes for my oil to drain out. If I didn't have to wait for my oil to drain, I'd still do it just for peace of mind. Probably useless, but it doesn't hurt anything.
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