Ward

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I am going to build a new engine for my car. I dont know as much about building 350s as I do 400s, so bear with me. First of all, was there ever a 4-bolt roller 350 made? The local engine rebuilding shop sells rebuilt 87-95 2-bolt roller 350's for $300. Or they sell a 86-95 non roller 350's with 4-bolt mains for about the same. I am leaning towards the 2 bolt roller version right now. Also, I will be running a carb, do either of these engines have a hole for a mechanical fuel pump? I already know the intake bolt pattern is different, but thats no biggie. Is anything else different though, such as the exhaust manifold bolt pattern, etc?Any info would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: Forgot one thing - I know that vortec heads require self-aligning rocker arms, but will guideplates work instead? What about LT1 rocker arms, would they work?

ede

the intake bolt pattern is dependent on the heads on the block, not the block it's self. if you're wanting to run a factory type roller then your choice is limited to the roller block, if not i doubt you'd see much differance between blocks. some roller blocks don't have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump, some to consider when you select your block. you can not mix alignment systems on rockers, in other words you can't use guide plates on a head designed for SA rockers.

8Mike9

I'd use the 2bolt block, just for the sake of having the 1-pc rear main seal.

If you're going to build some crazy HP, then have the main caps splayed for additional strength.

IROCZZ3

To answer your first question, Chevy does make a 4 bolt roller with provisions for a mechanical fuel pump...they used it for their ZZ series crate motors. I'm pretty sure they didn't put those type of blocks in any production vehicle so if you really want one of those you might have to get a bare ZZ block from GM.

I also agree about sticking with a 2 bolt roller. Splayed 4 bolt mains are stronger than factory 4 bolts anyway so the option is always there if needed.

AJ_92RS

I got one. It's a #638 block out of a 1990 GMC 3/4 HD.

Roller block, 4 bolt, w/ the hole for a mech. fuel pump.

They're more common than you think, if you know where to look.

thirdgen88

The 2-bolt roller cam core that I started with came from a 1989 caprice police interceptor.. The factory camshaft did have the fuel pump eccentric even though the car was fuel injected.. I would go with the roller motor, less worries about cam break-in. Plus, if you want to later, you can easily have that block machined for splayed 4-bolt mains...

IROCZZ3

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

yep, I got one in storage too, it cam from an 89 van. (roller 4 bolt main block) there are quite a few out there. I bought it looking for a req. 2 bolt block roller and it turned out to be a 4 bolt.
I would get the 2 bolt though if those are your only choices.

CarAteMyMoney

14093638 blocks are odd, they use the same casting number for 2 and 4 bolt blocks.. they were the standard 350 block

personally, id pick a roller 2 bolt block over a 4-bolt non roller block. 4 bolt aftermarket caps are alot cheaper than roller cam retrofits.

Ward

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention that the 4-bolt block is a 1-piece rear main seal. I guess I'll just stick with the 2-bolt block, because I really want a roller engine.

Aron213

about 99% of the 1 piece rear main blocks are roller blocks, just they may not have come with a roller cam in them...only some blocks made in 1987 came without the bosses tapped for the hold down.

Ward

iTrader: (1)

My friends 93 chevy P/U has a 305 in it, its a roller block, but its not roller. I know that the pickups didnt get roller until 1996 with the vortec engines. It has the bosses in the lifter valley for the roller 'spider', and it has a place to mount a mechanical fuel pump. but there is no hole for the fuel pump pushrod, and the lifter valley bosses are not drilled.

thirdgen88

Are the roller blocks that didn't come with a roller cam also ready for a thrust plate for the cam??

Ward

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure about that. We only pulled the intake off his truck, because the rear (intake) seal was leaking oil.

AJ_92RS

There's no right answer for that question.

Mine (as mentioned) is a 4 bolt, with ALL the holes drilled and tapped, and has a hole for the fuel pump rod. Other people on the boards (like Ward) have said theirs wasn't.

Sorry, but there is no shortcut. You have to pull the engine apart to know for sure.

You have to pull the oil pan to see if it's a 4 bolt main. You have to pull the intake off to see if it has the bolt holes for the 'spider' drilled. You have to pull the timing cover off to see if the holes for the front cam retainer are drilled and tapped. You have to pull the cover plate off the fuel pump mounting flange to see if there's a hole there for the pump rod.

If you want to know FOR SURE, you have to look.

OMINOUS_87

2 bolt blocks are alot stronger then most of the word on the street says they are. At this site you can see that most of the replies support this. 2 bolt blocks will hold 500hp build ups all day long with the factory main caps. Beyond that power level you have the option of aftermarket main caps and even the option of having the block splayed for an aftermarket 4 bolt cap. The choice is pretty simple run the 2 bolt roller block, you actually have something to gain by this, power and flexibility of a roller cam. Also you mention a rebuilt 350 for 300$. What exactly are you getting for 300$

Ward

iTrader: (1)

The place that sells them is City Motor Supply, located close to here, in downtown Dallas. We have bought several engines from them, all with no problems at all. My friend also bought a 302 short block for his 66 mustang, and its holding just fine (nowhere near a stock engine setup). Their website is http://www.citymotorsupply.com