In the process of a cam swap (and other parts that broke.... ... ) I was able to clean off the back of the block and find where the block numbers were!! my friend got in there with a mirror and a flash light and confirmed it, I got a 350! woot woot! mortec.com lables my engine as a "Hecho en Mexico" 350 Master/Goodwrench crate engine. we also noticed a solid cam and solid hydraulic lifters, the cam read "650" on it. the number on the back reads "10066036" along with "Hecho en mexico". The number on the front of the block reads "M0813 4VP" and the heads read "88 41 73 69 GM13" along with "Mexico". Other than what mortec told me on the block, I'm unable to find out what these other numbers mean. I'm just curious as to what year the engine is and what the heads are, and possibly what the crate engine's power was rated at. before the cam swap I ran a 14.8 spinning off the line (all the way till 2nd one time!) and misfiring past 4000. with Headers, 1.6 roller rockers and the usual "free/cheap" mods. Any ideas on what the specs (year, power, compression and so on) are? I'm probably eventualy going to get new heads, and am wondering if these heads are worth porting instead? Also, I'm going to pick up a new water pump (mine just gave out during the cam swap) for about $25 at Autozone, and I'm wondering if spending the extra $20 on a "high performance" water pump from AutoZone is worth it? is the "impeller" or whatever just larger? or what makes it "high performance"? thanks!

Also, I'm going to pick up a new water pump (mine just gave out during the cam swap) for about $25 at Autozone, and I'm wondering if spending the extra $20 on a "high performance" water pump from AutoZone is worth it? is the "impeller" or whatever just larger? or what makes it "high performance"?

thanks! [/b][/quote]


I work at Checker part time and I was considering putting in a GMB performance water pump in. After calling them I decided to go with Edelbrock or Weiand etc... instead. All those GMB (Autozone type) performance pumps do thats different from the regular ones is tack weld a circular piece of metal behind the wheel. It helps churn the fluid a little better. GMB could not tell me how much more % increase there was from their regular pump. The Edelbrocks etc...do this as well but put in better bearings etc etc... Well worth the 100 bucks or so IMHO... I guess its a matter of preference.

well, I gotta get the pump by tomorrow... so it's gonna be one of the 2 that either checker or AutoZone carries

so you don't think it's worth the extra? you say you work at checker, have many people had to bring back the $25 pump for under warrenty?

thanks!

That engine was rated at 250hp and had 76cc chamber heads giving an 8.5:1 compression raito.
If the cam in it is the stock one, change it, it was intended for trucks and doesn't make any real power above 3500-3800 RPM.

Over all it is a good engine (if a bit low on compression) it has 4 bolt mains, LT4 PM rods, Cast pistons, cast nodular iron crank.

I have this same engine in my IROC, with a better cam and Trick Flow heads, along with a completely different (better) valve train

With my combo it pushes out over 350hp and around 420ft/lbs of torque (at the crank, not R/W)

hey, thanks for that info!! :-)

Mortec says it can be either 2 or 4 bolt, mine has 2.

Mexican Crate Engine

OK, Thank G0D that this is how this thread turned out. At first I thought it was going to be some really bad racist joke.

How long has there been Mexican crate engine's around?, are they common?

Later, Garrett

so you don't think it's worth the extra? you say you work at checker, have many people had to bring back the $25 pump for under warrenty?

thanks! [/b][/quote]

Didnt say it wasnt worth the extra. It does help the flow of coolant because the circular piece of metal is tack welded to the back of the impeller. If this is a high hp engine and you plan to race get a better one from Summit or? Otherwise for a daily driver the GMB hgh performance pump from Checker would be a better choice than one from Autozone IMO. I have never seen anyone bring one back under warranty either. They carry a limited lifetime warranty tho.

In hotrod once they had a how to make your own hi flow water pump by just pop riviting a plate over the impeller.

Most times a soup can lid is the right size to close it off. It just makes it dig harder in the water, thus moves more.


Just do a good job when you do it. I did it to my Buick wagon and it turned out well, until I started having heat problems and I went to the pump first.

The soup can lid was gone. It got chewed up into pieces and clog up my hheater core. Next time I would weld or do a better jo. I think I only put two rivets into it.


Matt

for like $12 or so, you can get a lil "kit" that already has the circle of metal and poprivets.........

No real gain from the water pump, dont bother. Azone sells ASE pumps now Checker is the only one I know of that still sells GMB, IMO GMB are better. I think the mexico engines were produced after target master stopped building early 80's some time.
The crate cam is better then a stock factory cam becase it was made for a variety of engines its a tad better then most, kinda consider it a RV type.

for like $12 or so, you can get a lil "kit" that already has the circle of metal and poprivets.........


From CaptPicardsZ28:
What do you mean by "no gain." We're not talking hp here. With the plate behind the impeller you WILL have better flow. Albeit a small amount. Better flow is better than stock flow IMO. To buy the "kit" for 12 bucks is just plain dum if you ask me. Read above to find out how someone else did this and paid for it later cuz a rivet fell out. My ***... we're talking 20 bucks more for the GMB pump! If you want a real good high performance pump, again, go to Summit and get an Edelbrock etc., otherwise buy the GMB and be happy. Sheesh!!

if you read further into it, you'll realize that he used a soup can lid and 2 pop rivets.
the piece im talking about is a lil stronger then a soup can lid, and it has 3 big rivets. i would have no worries about it coming off.

good solution if you dont need a new water pump, but would like a lil more flow.... bad solution if you're already buying a new pump.


http://store.summitracing.com/productdetail.asp?p=292

anybody know what type of torque numbers the engine made as it came out of the crate?

Engine Name: 350 LM1
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.600”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
Intake: Not Included

IIRC, the blocks that were cast in Mexico had a slightly higher nickel content vs. those cast in the US, making them a bit more wear resistant over time. Basically, you can get more miles out of the block before it needs bored out.

Pete